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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V27, all the older sifus went MIA liao :(

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Albert B
post Nov 1 2014, 07:04 PM

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QUOTE(mjlau95 @ Nov 1 2014, 06:12 PM)
Hey guys, my red door light in the instrument cluster is not lighted up anymore when the door is opened, is there any way of fixing it?

...
*
see:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=67478245
mjlau95
post Nov 1 2014, 08:06 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Nov 1 2014, 07:04 PM)
So all I have to do is change the bulb? Or is it something I have to resolder?
chrisstse
post Nov 1 2014, 08:38 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 22 2014, 11:38 AM)
One of the causes of this problem might be the autochoke malfunction.

You can try to check as follows: look from the right side of your car,
under the air filter housing, you will see the autochoke. It is
operated by engine coolant and a fat spring. When cold the piston
is retracted and the spring opens the throttle a little bit. Inside
the piston are air bleeds that supply a richer mixture so the
engine is able to run properly when it is cold.

When hot, the piston protrudes out (as shown by the reference lines
in the picture) making the air bleed change to normal mixture and
closing the throttle back to normal.

Observe the position before starting the old engine, and then after
the engine is hot, and see if there is a difference.

When these function correctly, there is no vibration even when engine
is cold.
*
Thanks a lot for the detailed explaination on this. I have checked the springs and they appear to operate in good conditions. I have my sifu mechanic clean the carb, change the air filter, tuning the car timing and vola, no more violent vibration.

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 22 2014, 03:18 PM)
aside from what sifu albert has mentioned:
for first item:
- consider using lower viscosity full synthetic engine oils that's API SN certified.
- check your air filter
- consider cleaning your carb DIY with solutions like CRC carb cleaner, or threebond carb cleaners
- check your car idling on hot, if it's under 700-800 rpm, consider raising it just a bit to 800-900.

for second item:
- refer previously posted guides by albert: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=71010415
determine if it's anything to do with clutch.
considering other gears are fine and only reverse/1/2 gears are having issue...
- consider changing gear oil, maybe change it sooner than your usual intervals.
- consider using lower viscosity gear oil so it's better during cold/morning shifts
- i'm on auto iswara so not too sure on manual, but if you said there's a hydraulic pump (i thought it's just straight cable without hydraulic assist) then change the hydraulic fluid (basically just brake fluid) and/or bleed it to prevent air pockets within the system
- considering the odd sound, it may be the clutch pressure plate/bearing is worn/having parts chipped.
- only way to know for sure is opening the clutch/gear box housing and if you're on that path you might as well replace the clutch pad/associated worn items already.
*
Changed the gear oil, but definitely is a wasted effort now because my car just let out a huge scare to me today. The car was engaging into 2nd gear when a "huhuhuhuhu" sound comes from the engine, car shaking violently but no acceleration happened even if I pressed on the pedal. I am sure the gear was engaged as I checked twice before trying to reengage again quickly (It was running in first gear on a busy road). Brought back to the mechanic and he was quite affirmative that my clutch lining is wearing off. I never pressed the RPM more than 4000 to notice the lost in power. I am quite gentle when come to handle this car, but when he did it, there is obvious loss of power despite the "huhuhuhu" engine sound.

Since the car will be doing its first engine overhaul soon (end of november) so my mechanic says leave it first and 1 kali fix everything. The mechanic assured me it can keep going around town but I still got 1 important date to attend 200km to and forth so hopefully it will stand until then.
unsure.gif unsure.gif unsure.gif

This post has been edited by chrisstse: Nov 1 2014, 09:02 PM
Albert B
post Nov 1 2014, 08:45 PM

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QUOTE(mjlau95 @ Nov 1 2014, 08:06 PM)
So all I have to do is change the bulb? Or is it something I have to resolder?
*
Usually the most common cause is a blown bulb. Other causes like
bad solder joints, wiring open circuit, sensor fault etc are possible
but not so likely. You can always DIY and see if it can be solved by
changing the bulb.

The topic of solder joints was mentioned by forum members because
it is a common VDO defect affecting the meters especially the rpm,
fuel & temperature gauges.
Albert B
post Nov 1 2014, 09:14 PM

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QUOTE(chrisstse @ Nov 1 2014, 08:38 PM)
...
...
Brought back to the mechanic and he was quite affirmative that my clutch lining is wearing off. I never pressed the RPM more than 4000 to notice the lost in power. I am quite gentle when come to handle this car, but when he did it, there is obvious loss of power despite the "huhuhuhu" engine sound.

Since the car will be doing its first engine overhaul soon (end of november) so my mechanic says leave it first and 1 kali fix everything. The mechanic assured me it can keep going around town but I still got 1 important date to attend 200km to and forth so hopefully it will stand until then. 
unsure.gif  unsure.gif  unsure.gif
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Presently, your clutch pedal has any free-play at the top most position?
chrisstse
post Nov 1 2014, 09:25 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Nov 1 2014, 09:14 PM)
Presently, your clutch pedal has any free-play at the top most position?
*
Yes, I am not good with measurements but there is about some 0.5 inch for me.

Apart from the huhuhu sound, there is also this kereng kereng sound like when you go up a hill in wrong gear but you still force the car? That one will appear when only in 3rd gear, after the RPM reaching 4000 and 4th gear, RPM reaching 3000-4000.


mjlau95
post Nov 1 2014, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Nov 1 2014, 08:45 PM)
Usually the most common cause is a blown bulb. Other causes like
bad solder joints, wiring open circuit, sensor fault etc are possible
but not so likely.  You can always DIY and see if it can be solved by
changing the bulb.

The topic of solder joints was mentioned by forum members because
it is a common VDO defect affecting the meters especially the rpm,
fuel & temperature gauges.
*
Thanks a lot Sifu! I thought I had to change the entire fuel/temp meter section, really glad I found this forum!

P.S: just recently owned a 99' iswara A/B
mjlau95
post Nov 1 2014, 10:42 PM

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Are power window motors for the iswara really that expensive? I've seen a couple of ads on the internet pricing them at around RM90...

Btw, changing the power window motors on the iswara seems kinda difficult sad.gif correct me of I'm wrong...
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 2 2014, 01:15 AM

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QUOTE(mjlau95 @ Nov 1 2014, 10:42 PM)
Are power window motors for the iswara really that expensive? I've seen a couple of ads on the internet pricing them at around RM90...

Btw, changing the power window motors on the iswara seems kinda difficult sad.gif correct me of I'm wrong...
*
rm 90 expensive? sweat.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 2 2014, 01:17 AM

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btw as we exceeded 2500 posts, a new thread version will be required.

This time, i plan to clean up the long outdated owner list.
will be pinging every owner on that list and if there are no feedback i will not be adding them on the new version's owner list.

megadisc
post Nov 2 2014, 06:40 AM

Look at all my stars!!
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 2 2014, 01:17 AM)
btw as we exceeded 2500 posts, a new thread version will be required.

This time, i plan to clean up the long outdated owner list.
will be pinging every owner on that list and if there are no feedback i will not be adding them on the new version's owner list.

*
that's just awesome ...no need to ping me ya ....

still superbly faithful to the green monster...
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 3 2014, 01:13 AM

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pinging users if they are still around and Own a Proton Saga (old gen prior to BLM/FL/FLX) or Proton Iswara

kahheng
chowdm
singchaii
apache_utara
the_catacombs

if i don't get a response in ~5-10 days i won't be including in the new owner list
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 3 2014, 01:14 AM

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pinging users if they are still around and Own a Proton Saga (old gen prior to BLM/FL/FLX) or Proton Iswara

feralee
blackpc
domo_kun
bukanmain
~Battousai~

if i don't get a response in ~5-10 days i won't be including in the new owner list
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 3 2014, 01:16 AM

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ugh error

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 3 2014, 01:16 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 3 2014, 01:17 AM

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pinging users if they are still around and Own a Proton Saga (old gen prior to BLM/FL/FLX) or Proton Iswara

ceo684
edtan5
Tainted
Xefron
RoxyMunky

if i don't get a response in ~5-10 days i won't be including in the new owner list
jondankawan
post Nov 3 2014, 02:06 AM

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Hello there smile.gif

Just bought a 2nd hand Iswara A/B. 13yo. Manual. Stock. Can you add me in the owner list?
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 3 2014, 02:17 AM

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QUOTE(jondankawan @ Nov 3 2014, 02:06 AM)
Hello there smile.gif

Just bought a 2nd hand Iswara A/B. 13yo. Manual. Stock. Can you add me in the owner list?
*
ok added smile.gif
Xefron
post Nov 3 2014, 08:07 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 3 2014, 01:17 AM)
pinging users if they are still around and Own a Proton Saga (old gen prior to BLM/FL/FLX) or Proton Iswara

ceo684
edtan5
Tainted
Xefron
RoxyMunky

if i don't get a response in ~5-10 days i won't be including in the new owner list
*
sudah lama jual notworthy.gif

apache_utara
post Nov 3 2014, 09:34 AM

:: 35mm ::
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From: Ukay Perdana



Wow..

Long time no come here. Already given my iswara to my nephew in Taiping

laugh.gif
jedi_master
post Nov 3 2014, 11:26 AM

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Before you ping me, iswara still alive and kicking. Just retired from 4 throttle setup. Anyone who wants to try open throttles paired with matching sequential exhaust, just let me know, haha.

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