Hey guys, not too sure this has been asked in any of the previous threads before, but I am having a problem with my central lock. I am not very experienced in the car mechanics yet as I just got my driver's licence 2 years ago. I bought the car (Iswara aeroback 2003) from a second hand dealer one year ago and according to him every parts are stock parts.

My problem is the central lock will automatically eject, no matter the car is moving or just parking, after i lock the car. And after locking with the remote, it does not respond to the open button on the remote.

Can anyone help me with this?

To Gemini Sharti and Andy

Thank you for your reply.
I checked it at the accessory shop the other day and they found my alarm module become psycho that is why it always kick back.
Changed it and no ghost liao also...




This post has been edited by chrisstse: Dec 5 2013, 05:53 AM

Hi everyone here,

I got a problem here where my handbreak cannot latch on to the metal ring, so I got no handbreak.

The first mechanic i went told me it's the screw under the car become loose and he tight it up for me. But 2 months later, the problem comes back.

I bring it to another mechanic, and he also say the samething, which is another 2 months. Today, the handbreak get loose again and I went to a 3rd mechanic, he checked everything, told me my left break is jam, so change it for me for RM 15 but did not tight up the screw.

He guarantee me it will not be loose now. I tested on the spot, seems ok but 2 hours later, it is loose again. Now I have to manually push my finger to lock the handbreak.

I am thinking of changing the whole handbreak (just the handbreak pull and the metal ring, not the cables and breaks). Can anyone tell me what is the thing called and the price? I am a noob in cars. Thank you.

I hope the picture i attached actually explained what i meant. The screw the mechanic loose it up and shift the metal ring with gigi to front a bit to let the pawl bite into it last time.
I am thinking of changing the whole set of handbreak like what you attached in the second picture. What do you think? Will it help? and if i really want to, the spare part shop say there is no stock now. Need to order and refuse to tell me the price yet. I have not decided yet la, need to know how much first, so i don't get pancung.

This post has been edited by chrisstse: Apr 11 2014, 08:15 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Thanks Albert, I just went and had a little experiment myself to confirm what you have told.

Unfortunately, I think my problem is not the miss alignments of the pawl and ratchet. I need to push from FRONT to engage the pawl. I cannot disengage the handbrake WITHOUT pressing the button by moving it to either RIGHT or LEFT. The lock is very strong, and can only be disengaged when the button is PRESSED. It is the matter that the pawl cannot get into the hatchet when I am not pressing it from the front.

I would say the power of the spring is not enough, because the pawl still retract after the button is released, and yea, it did not press the pawl into the ratchet, the pawl just merely slides through the ratchets (4 of them). My finger's job is to push a little harder, until the pawl finds a hole to pin itself.

I think I kind of solved it (at least now the spring clicks automatically to the hatchet already). The release button itself is a screw that can be adjusted buy turning it clockwise or anti-clockwise. I turned the release button and guess what? The pawl just locked into the hatchet like it used to do for me. It's so relieving after all the mechanic visits and no one knows exactly what happened.

Thanks again Albert, if weren't for you I would not think twice to change the handle away and I would have never suspected the button is the culprit!

Any fellow Sabahans here? I was wondering is there any good and trustable mechanics around that can do some maintenance with my engine?

I went through a water poodle yesterday. The car sound differently when it go through the water but I have no choice because the front and back of my car is already flooded. (Accidentally park in a place where after rain, it will contain deep water).

That afternoon, I drove 100km back to my town (100km from kota kinabalu), I asked the usual service guy to change the engine oil, oil filter and petrol filter for me. Now, when the car is idle without the aircond, it stays nice, but once I turn on the aircond, the engine like want to die want to die only. Any advice?

If any sabahan is here, please recommend mechanics that are trustable and can fix this issue, I am willing to drive down to get it fix.

Thanks!

Anyone knows why my tyres will make a rhythmic "hu--hu--hu" sound when I drove on road? Only occur when the car is moving, if it's parked, there is no sound. The sound is kind of hard to ignore, even with my bad sound insulation. (I had the LCSS, with big exhaust)

I initially thought it was due to my tyre that has problem, as it sounded like there is something sticking out from the tyre, but all four of my tyres are in ok condition.

Went and check the suspensions as well, just in case. They are still nice, apart from some leaking but because it is a consistent sound, not when i went through bumps so i think its not the suspensions as well.

Yes, it gets louder when speed increases. Thanks for the reminder... Will go and check once the shop is opened.
How much will it cost for the bearings?

Thanks for the reminder. Did you wait until it break only go change?

This post has been edited by chrisstse: May 30 2014, 11:04 AM

Thank you Jason. I kind of see the price from the pics you uploaded, here in east malaysia, everything add another RM 5...
After seeing the pics I am thinking: "OMG! Jason is so rich.... " (joking only)
Just a question, the rotors i see in your picture is 1 piece RM120, does it mean 1 pair or really it's 1 piece?
I think i will ask them to check the back first, since it does not need the machine pressing. (Yay! Less labor cost)

Went today to check on my wheel bearings. Scared kena chop gao gao because sabah today is holiday.
On arrival, told the mechanic about my issue, he starts to jack up my car and try to "goyang" my tyres ,
according to him, if the bearings are faulty, the tyres will not stay parallel when we swing it.

All wheel bearings appeared to be in ok condition.

Then we check the tyres again (same person who did the tyre inspection last time ), the inner side of the driver back tyre was inflated, according to him it's the absorber that is faulty that cause this problem, and that gives the tyre sound that is bothering me. I am actually quite suspicious because I have no squeaky sound at all )
Ok, so since it's RM60 per pair, I change the absorbers.

He then tell me to remember to change tyres as the inflated tyres are no good and can cause problem later on.

I took heed and went to the tyre shop, I ask again the tyre shop to check the tyres and they confirmed it . Change the tyres. (The back pairs is already 3 years old).

Now, no more audible sound heard (it was raining heavyly so not so sure). Will still continue to monitor.

Total lost = RM 60 (absorber)+ RM20 (labor) + RM 340 (2 x RM170 silverstone 185/60 R14) + RM 35 (allignment) + RM25 labour = RM 480

More than I thought.

Bulging. He use the term kembong. At first I don't understand, then he ask me to touch, there are 4 spots that bulged out.

It's more like the thumbnails i share below. So, when I inspected last time, i thought it was ok. Did not think it was on the inner side, only look for the outer part. I think it's the wear and tear that cause it because it's already 3 years old since I bought the car (2012) and I have no idea how long did the previous owner use it.

Yea, I feel a bit stupid about the absorber because there is really no real experience that it broke, no squeaky sound, no bumpy rides.



This post has been edited by chrisstse: May 31 2014, 07:13 PM

Seriously? Mine is not the whole tyre like that, only 2 to 3 "scallop" was detected via touching. It's not that visible until like you see the scallop in front of your eyes.

So far have tested running on a new tar road, no more galloping sound for now. So I guess, case close until next time.

The auto world has a lot of things for me to learn... and having a car that is old and have cheap spare parts are nice for a newbie like me. At least no need to pay so much to learn "lessons"

I am currently looking at how at what different sounds of the car makes means. I have fixed the "tikus" in the car, the galloping sound of tyres, another sound that troubles me is the sound like you have one or two loose steel sticks hitting together, (like ting...ting..ting) but not very frequent, only big bumps will make that sound, and not always.

Old car a bit eat petrol. My fc is usually around 10-11km/l.
Bad tar/gravel roads in some part, mostly will be on average 60km/hr due to traffic.
Big big exhaust and overtaking a lot.
Full tank will go for 400-450km.

This post has been edited by chrisstse: May 31 2014, 09:30 PM

The mechanics that we have here are all shaddy person under the trees. I am living in a rural area where there is not even a proper proton showroom, and no KFC, so don't even mention a proper, qualified mechanic.

I am suspicious of the mech as well because he was the one checking my tyres and suspension before and he is the one who told me tyres ok and suspension ok. Now he is telling me these things pulak

Silverstone only m3 available. I only have 2 tyre stores here. Tried 2 stores, Continental CC5 (really like those) out of stock, bridgestone escopia they want sell me 250 per piece, the other want to sell me 270 per piece. I know that M3 is around RM 130 per piece but comparing the overcharge condition, M3 is overcharge slightly cheaper than bridgestone, I have to settle for that...

I can only hope that my car can tahan 2 more years without major issue. It's only 2 more years before I get out of this hole and go home. and then I can ship him back and have proper maintanance.

This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jun 1 2014, 08:36 AM

Like i said, it's a rural place, some more i hate driving 2 hrs to go city to change tyres and then drive 2 hrs more back. Memang expect potong kepala d the place, i even do comparison between 2 shops also same. Dunno they got pakat or not la.
Hopefully it will last long, at least make it 2 years....

2. MORE. YEARS to ditch this hole to go back to Semenanjung, civilisation, freedom, and most importantly, cinema!

It's out of town of Beaufort and nearing to Sipitang in Sabah.

Just saw your location:

To be more precise, i worked at Weston.

This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jun 2 2014, 01:32 PM

Ya, the place still ok, at least internet can come in here. If i got sent to really rural, probably the first thing i do is get transfer letter. No offence, but I am not totally a kampung guy who can survive without pipe water.....

Labuan the vehicle ferry itself want to book kan right? You got any lubang bro, want to find another car time can find you?

Hi all Sifus here,

I am having 2 problems here to ask for help. I had this car for 3 years and learned a lot about the car by myself or asking mechanics. Moving from Kota Kinabalu to Beaufort 2 years ago, I am still in search of a reliable mechanic around. I sincerely salute all the Sifus here and hoping you guys could help me learn more about my car.

1. My car when first start fresh in the morning, when engine still cold, will have vibration which should be very normal since the last 3 years. What is not normal is how it vibrates recently. Instead of vibrating all the way, it vibrate a bit then almost die engine, then vibrate again. It is like the car behaves like people sucking not enough air and wanted to suck more air in (kind of like kena asthma), but when the engine enough hot (ie started for around 5 minutes) the special vibration is gone. I try to bring the car to mechanic to troubleshoot, but the special vibrating goes away already because the engine is hot, so the mechanic did not know what is the problem, start back also no use because engine hot already so no more special vibrate. To add in more description: Sometimes when I am in a hurry i will press the accelerator to heat my engine. When the accelerator was pressed with free gear and the special vibration is still there, the exhaust sound is like kentut, like got gas was released out before it went smooth, then the special vibration is gone.

2. I have this gear shifting problem for about 1 month now. It is hard to shift the gears from free-1st-2nd and reverse. Shifting to other gears are ok. The free-1st-2nd feels very hard and stiff, but still able to get in and not slipping out to other gears, and the pick up is still there. The reverse gear however really hard to get it in and if get it in also got a sound like "krak", not everytime but very often. Another thing is I used to be able to go up a small hill nearby my house using 2nd gear. But recently when i go up the hill by 2nd gear there will be "kereng, kereng, kereng" sound like you are in the wrong gear at the wrong speed. It happens around the same time when the gear shifting feels stiff. The mechanic is trying to tell me my clutch pad is wearing off but i don't feel the lost in pickup power so I am highly doubtful. I want to ask all the sifus here first before deciding to change the clutch pads.

p/s: I just change my clutch oil it feels better a bit at gear shifting but still very stiff compared to what i had originally. The kereng sound is still there.

Thank you in advance for reading and answering my questions.

This post has been edited by chrisstse: Oct 22 2014, 09:42 AM