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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V27, all the older sifus went MIA liao :(

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Albert B
post Oct 22 2014, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(chrisstse @ Oct 22 2014, 09:20 AM)
Hi all Sifus here,

...
1. My car when first start fresh in the morning, when engine still cold, will have vibration which should be very normal since the last 3 years. What is not normal is how it vibrates recently. Instead of vibrating all the way, it vibrate a bit then almost die engine, then vibrate again. It is like the car behaves like people sucking not enough air and wanted to suck more air in (kind of like kena asthma), but when the engine enough hot (ie started for around 5 minutes) the special vibration is gone. I try to bring the car to mechanic to troubleshoot, but the special vibrating goes away already because the engine is hot, so the mechanic did not know what is the problem, start back also no use because engine hot already so no more special vibrate. To add in more description: Sometimes when I am in a hurry i will press the accelerator to heat my engine. When the accelerator was pressed with free gear and the special vibration is still there, the exhaust sound is like kentut, like got gas was released out before it went smooth, then the special vibration is gone.

...

*
One of the causes of this problem might be the autochoke malfunction.

You can try to check as follows: look from the right side of your car,
under the air filter housing, you will see the autochoke. It is
operated by engine coolant and a fat spring. When cold the piston
is retracted and the spring opens the throttle a little bit. Inside
the piston are air bleeds that supply a richer mixture so the
engine is able to run properly when it is cold.

When hot, the piston protrudes out (as shown by the reference lines
in the picture) making the air bleed change to normal mixture and
closing the throttle back to normal.

Observe the position before starting the old engine, and then after
the engine is hot, and see if there is a difference.

When these function correctly, there is no vibration even when engine
is cold.


Attached thumbnail(s)
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crayzee
post Oct 22 2014, 12:04 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


thanks bro notworthy.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 22 2014, 03:18 PM

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QUOTE(chrisstse @ Oct 22 2014, 09:20 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
aside from what sifu albert has mentioned:
for first item:
- consider using lower viscosity full synthetic engine oils that's API SN certified.
- check your air filter
- consider cleaning your carb DIY with solutions like CRC carb cleaner, or threebond carb cleaners
- check your car idling on hot, if it's under 700-800 rpm, consider raising it just a bit to 800-900.

for second item:
- refer previously posted guides by albert: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=71010415
determine if it's anything to do with clutch.
considering other gears are fine and only reverse/1/2 gears are having issue...
- consider changing gear oil, maybe change it sooner than your usual intervals.
- consider using lower viscosity gear oil so it's better during cold/morning shifts
- i'm on auto iswara so not too sure on manual, but if you said there's a hydraulic pump (i thought it's just straight cable without hydraulic assist) then change the hydraulic fluid (basically just brake fluid) and/or bleed it to prevent air pockets within the system
- considering the odd sound, it may be the clutch pressure plate/bearing is worn/having parts chipped.
- only way to know for sure is opening the clutch/gear box housing and if you're on that path you might as well replace the clutch pad/associated worn items already.
megadisc
post Oct 22 2014, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 21 2014, 10:54 PM)
to use the swimming pool analogy:
would it be easier to swim in a pool of oil/molasses, or is it easier to swim in a pool of water?

why almost every modern day car manufacturer pushes for lighter viscosity? engine oil protection has come a long way to allow the same, if not better protection (comparing to older engine oil) than thicker viscosity counterpart smile.gif
*
item 2 can be cable cluth prob.
schumimusvn
post Oct 23 2014, 09:03 AM

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I'm a foreigner here and i just bought an Iswara 2001 3 months ago, I dont know much about mechanical so it's a little bit confusing to decide when and where do i need to take the car to have a fully check.

And futhermore, its using NGV now, could anyone suggest me any reliable workshop for Iswara car in KL ? Which one who do not cheat customers smile.gif

I live in Old Klang Road.

Thanks very much.
Albert B
post Oct 23 2014, 12:46 PM

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QUOTE(schumimusvn @ Oct 23 2014, 09:03 AM)
I'm a foreigner here and i just bought an Iswara 2001 3 months ago, I dont know much about mechanical so it's a little bit confusing to decide when and where do i need to take the car to have a fully check.

...
*
If you do not have the owner's servicing manual, here are 2 pages scanned copy.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 23 2014, 01:00 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 23 2014, 12:46 PM)
If you do not have the owner's servicing manual, here are 2 pages scanned copy.
*
can code me the attachment ID's? so i can link it on the front page (or i can just url it manually i think)

not sure if using other user's attachment ID work hmm.gif

btw fuel filter 1 year or 20k km? that's quick lol...
i usually do 2 years/40k km, since it still looks rather clear/clean.
If anything, no harm on 1 year 20k km since it only cost like rm4-7 for even ori proton fuel filter wink.gif

=edit=
i do however work on my brakes 1 year/20k km, and ATF in between 1 year-2 years or 20-40k km depending on ATF quality upon inspection/responsiveness of gear shifts.

rear wheel bearing i have it inspected and repack with grease every 10-20k km depending on how my rear brakes work. if it isn't as responsive or it's jamming i'll just open up the hub and have the rear drums serviced/cleaned and at the same time work on the bearings too.

holy hell valve clearance/adjustments every 20k km laugh.gif

and seriously, i'd be damn surprise if proton even does HALF of the list lol.
in fact look at their latest service schedules/guides they also won't list everything in such detail and keep it vague rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 23 2014, 02:21 PM
nookie7
post Oct 23 2014, 01:34 PM

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i need some advice...i'm on the verge of planning to overhaul my 1.3 iswara sedan..few inputs from my fren..

Which is more advisable?

1. get a 1.5 engine kosong built up n PnP to my car.
2. scout for 1.6 mitsubishi engine.
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 23 2014, 02:22 PM

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QUOTE(nookie7 @ Oct 23 2014, 01:34 PM)
i need some advice...i'm on the verge of planning to overhaul my  1.3 iswara sedan..few inputs from my fren..

Which is more advisable?

1. get a 1.5 engine kosong built up n PnP to my car.
2. scout for 1.6 mitsubishi engine.
*
personally 1.5, as there's regular 1.5 on the road anyways.
probably much easier to endorse/go through legally.
DaBestOne
post Oct 23 2014, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(nookie7 @ Oct 23 2014, 01:34 PM)
i need some advice...i'm on the verge of planning to overhaul my  1.3 iswara sedan..few inputs from my fren..

Which is more advisable?

1. get a 1.5 engine kosong built up n PnP to my car.
2. scout for 1.6 mitsubishi engine.
*
Just go for 1.5 is good and enough for normal use car smile.gif
Albert B
post Oct 23 2014, 04:02 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 23 2014, 01:00 PM)
can code me the attachment ID's? so i can link it on the front page (or i can just url it manually i think)

not sure if using other user's attachment ID work hmm.gif

btw fuel filter 1 year or 20k km? that's quick lol...
i usually do 2 years/40k km, since it still looks rather clear/clean.
If anything, no harm on 1 year 20k km since it only cost like rm4-7 for even ori proton fuel filter wink.gif

=edit=
i do however work on my brakes 1 year/20k km, and ATF in between 1 year-2 years or 20-40k km depending on ATF quality upon inspection/responsiveness of gear shifts.

rear wheel bearing i have it inspected and repack with grease every 10-20k km depending on how my rear brakes work. if it isn't as responsive or it's jamming i'll just open up the hub and have the rear drums serviced/cleaned and at the same time work on the bearings too.

holy hell valve clearance/adjustments every 20k km laugh.gif

and seriously, i'd be damn surprise if proton even does HALF of the list lol.
in fact look at their latest service schedules/guides they also won't list everything in such detail and keep it vague rolleyes.gif
*
I don't have the attachment id, probably because I did not use
those image hosting websites? I directly attached the file by
choosing the files from my PC and clicking "Add this attachment".
I think those files are inside lowyat now and can be downloaded
and be reused.

(I am not a user of those image-hosting websites, some I think
will remove the image after a certain period of not accessing it).

Agree with you, Proton is overdoing some of the maintenance items,
and also their servicing centers do not strictly follow their schedules
for all the items.

Below I attach the service table for LMST; basically is the same, but
there are a bit addition on things like battery base voltage, PCV ...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 23 2014, 04:18 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 23 2014, 04:02 PM)
I don't have the attachment id, probably because I did not use
those image hosting websites?  I directly attached the file by
choosing the files from my PC and clicking "Add this attachment".
I think those files are inside lowyat now and can be downloaded
and be reused.

(I am not a user of those image-hosting websites, some I think
will remove the image after a certain period of not accessing it).

Agree with you, Proton is overdoing some of the maintenance items,
and also their servicing centers do not strictly follow their schedules
for all the items.

Below I attach the service table for LMST; basically is the same, but
there are a bit addition on things like battery base voltage, PCV ...
*
ya those are what i am referring to; If you edit your post there should be an attachment id thingy to "link" to the file you uploaded.
i'm not a fan of image hosting websites for reasons similar/same as you; I do however have my own server for image needs, or even google drive (which are way more reliable, and even if they shut down they allow exporting of your files)
mffa
post Oct 23 2014, 09:03 PM

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Anybody know,where can I get the original saga lmst door visor?..how much is it?..including installation..Im currently in Shah Alam
champu
post Oct 27 2014, 01:05 AM

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Intake
1. High Flow Open Pod (from rm50 onwards) or Drop In Air Filters K&N over rm250-300ish, there are other cheaper reusable drop ins, however performance gains subjective
2. Due to the bad placing of the stock air intake resulting in hot air being sucked, it is recommended to add a Cold Air Intake. Various types of hose available for this DIY upgrade. Position the intake in front of the radiator, and you will definitely gain valuable power and better the fuel consumption!

I am currently driving stock Iswara 2001 aeroback and am considering the following changes/upgrades;

- Front grill (net) for better air flow
user posted image

- change stock air filter to something like this;
user posted image

Any suggestions on type of grill and brand of air filters I should consider? Also, would changing into an open air intake will deteriorate performance/lifespan?


feralee
post Oct 27 2014, 12:24 PM

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Hi there,

Want to ask, if anyone had change the engine mounting before. Want to know which brand is it if still can recall?

How much is the estimate price?

Thanks
schumimusvn
post Oct 30 2014, 11:46 AM

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Does anyone know where to buy the Iswara Rear Bumper like pic below ? im at Mid Valley, Old Klang Road.

user posted image

Normally, how much is it ?
fishncatz
post Oct 31 2014, 10:11 PM

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Hi guys,

Can you please enlighten me about this pin located at the air filter holder? (Circled in red)
The pin seems missing in the holder. Does this pin affect the car vacuum suction thingy and affect my car fc?
I dont seems to find any answer in any forums. Tq

[attachmentid=4195308]
Albert B
post Oct 31 2014, 10:55 PM

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QUOTE(fishncatz @ Oct 31 2014, 10:11 PM)
Hi guys,

Can you please enlighten me about this pin located at the air filter holder? (Circled in red)
The pin seems missing in the holder. Does this pin affect the car vacuum suction thingy and affect my car fc?
I dont seems to find any answer in any forums. Tq


*
Hot idle compensator air bleed valve.
see :
http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/GM-Me...900c152800488d7
Is the photo showing your item? It does not show anything missing.
fishncatz
post Oct 31 2014, 11:49 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 31 2014, 10:55 PM)
Hot idle compensator air bleed valve.
see :
http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/GM-Me...900c152800488d7
Is the photo showing your item? It does not show anything missing.
*
Thanks for the info given. The pics that i showed is not mine. But the hot idle compensator is missing in the pan of my car.The metal already patah. i will try o source for the item in the spare part shop tmr.

This post has been edited by fishncatz: Oct 31 2014, 11:50 PM
mjlau95
post Nov 1 2014, 06:12 PM

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Hey guys, my red door light in the instrument cluster is not lighted up anymore when the door is opened, is there any way of fixing it?

Do you guys know any good paint shops around Sri damansara area? Wanna paint back original colour....

This post has been edited by mjlau95: Nov 1 2014, 06:22 PM

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