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PC Audio Creative GigaWorks S750 7.1 speaker repair, A short guide and info with pictures...

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Kahlid74
post Dec 5 2013, 11:59 PM

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QUOTE(lex @ Dec 5 2013, 10:39 AM)
This one is incorrect as its rather wider than the original. The diameter should be 22mm otherwise the capacitors will not fit together. Should be this 22mm diameter version (if using Mouser): Mouser > Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Snap In > Panasonic EET-ED2D471BA... wink.gif

Incorrect one again, as the lead pitch is 3.5mm. Should get the version with 5mm lead pitch. Digikey > Capacitors > Aluminum Capacitors > UHE1V221MPD6... icon_idea.gif

Look for Nichicon HE series, like this one: Digikey > Capacitors > Aluminum Capacitors > UHE1E470MDD. icon_rolleyes.gif
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Awesome, thanks man! I'll look to place orders today. For the ceramic disc capacitor would this guy work? - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/6...EDSA-ND/1545918

TSlex
post Dec 6 2013, 03:28 PM

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QUOTE(Kahlid74 @ Dec 5 2013, 11:59 PM)
Awesome, thanks man!  I'll look to place orders today.  For the ceramic disc capacitor would this guy work? - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/6...EDSA-ND/1545918
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If you are talking about the cracked ceramic disc capcitor replacement then it would work. Like I've mentioned earlier just any 100nF or 0.1uF ceramic capacitor of 50V or higher rating can be used (even those cheaper but awful Y5V ceramics), since this capacitor is non-critical (functions as low impedance side for those original general purpose 85C capacitors). However, for the capacitor that is very close to the heatsink (which is actually part of the switched mode power supply feedback section) then stick to the capacitor I've specified (for stability reasons use either X8R, X7R or NP0/C0G ceramics). icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by lex: Dec 6 2013, 03:45 PM
BuFung
post Dec 6 2013, 05:40 PM

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Lex, u accept repair faulty speaker? Power Studio monitor speaker.
let me know detail.. thanks.
TSlex
post Dec 6 2013, 06:51 PM

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QUOTE(BuFung @ Dec 6 2013, 05:40 PM)
Lex,  u accept repair faulty speaker? Power Studio monitor speaker.
let me know detail.. thanks.
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Yups, I do repair many types of speaker systems. What was the actual brand and model (as can't find any references to the brand "Power Studio")? Also what was the problem with them? Anyway, just PM me for more details... hmm.gif

BuFung
post Dec 6 2013, 09:21 PM

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QUOTE(lex @ Dec 6 2013, 06:51 PM)
Yups, I do repair many types of speaker systems. What was the actual brand and model (as can't find any references to the brand "Power Studio")? Also what was the problem with them? Anyway, just PM me for more details...  hmm.gif
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Sorry .. I mean is a powered studio monitor.. brand is Tannoy ... model is eclipse 8..
TSlex
post Dec 6 2013, 10:24 PM

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QUOTE(BuFung @ Dec 6 2013, 09:21 PM)
Sorry .. I mean is a powered studio monitor..  brand is Tannoy ... model is eclipse 8..
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After looking up this model, looks to be quite a complex speaker system (even has custom software to remote control it). Possibly has integrated MCU and DSP for its crossover and external output connections. By the way, what was wrong with it? Can describe the symptoms? hmm.gif

BuFung
post Dec 6 2013, 10:59 PM

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QUOTE(lex @ Dec 6 2013, 10:24 PM)
After looking up this model, looks to be quite a complex speaker system (even has custom software to remote control it). Possibly has integrated MCU and DSP for its crossover and external output connections. By the way, what was wrong with it? Can describe the symptoms? hmm.gif
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Dont worry. My is older gen without Dsp. 1 time plug in power .. On.. white smoke come out... then cannot ON no more..
Kahlid74
post Dec 6 2013, 11:02 PM

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QUOTE(lex @ Dec 6 2013, 02:28 AM)
If you are talking about the cracked ceramic disc capcitor replacement then it would work. Like I've mentioned earlier just any 100nF or 0.1uF ceramic capacitor of 50V or higher rating can be used (even those cheaper but awful Y5V ceramics), since this capacitor is non-critical (functions as low impedance side for those original general purpose 85C capacitors). However, for the capacitor that is very close to the heatsink (which is actually part of the switched mode power supply feedback section) then stick to the capacitor I've specified (for stability reasons use either X8R, X7R or NP0/C0G ceramics). icon_rolleyes.gif
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So I could just buy a couple of the ceramic capacitor your specified and use that for both right?

Also, Digikey is out of two of the capacitors:

So for the 5x 100uF 35V 105C, low impedence and/or low ESR type (for SMPS)
This:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichic...K4y6Z7OvlMKU%3d
or this:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichic...BwN1o%2f8xKs%3d

For the 1x 68uF 450V 105C, high ripple handling type (inverter/balast)
Would these work?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichic...ko7RlAfp%2fg%3d
or
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichic...CPZDTM13hVQI%3d


This post has been edited by Kahlid74: Dec 6 2013, 11:11 PM
TSlex
post Dec 7 2013, 12:50 AM

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QUOTE(BuFung @ Dec 6 2013, 10:59 PM)
Dont worry. My is older gen without Dsp. 1 time plug in power .. On.. white smoke come out...  then cannot ON no more..
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Sounds much like the power supply section blew, possibly some weak, failed and/or faulty components. Usually should be fixable/repairable... hmm.gif

QUOTE(Kahlid74 @ Dec 6 2013, 11:02 PM)
So I could just buy a couple of the ceramic capacitor your specified and use that for both right?
Yups, can use the same capacitor (that more expensive X8R high temperature ceramic) for both. nod.gif

QUOTE(Kahlid74 @ Dec 6 2013, 11:02 PM)
Also, Digikey is out of two of the capacitors:

So for the 5x 100uF 35V 105C, low impedence and/or low ESR type (for SMPS)
This:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichic...K4y6Z7OvlMKU%3d
or this:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichic...BwN1o%2f8xKs%3d
Either ones should be fine, just different packaging from the details on the website. Another option would be Nichicon PW series (slightly higher specifications than Nichicon PS series). wink.gif

QUOTE(Kahlid74 @ Dec 6 2013, 11:02 PM)
For the 1x 68uF 450V 105C, high ripple handling type (inverter/balast)
Would these work?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichic...ko7RlAfp%2fg%3d
or
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichic...CPZDTM13hVQI%3d
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Their specifications are much lower than the Nichicon CS series. Here are some similar capacitors (with way better specifications than the ones you've chosen): Mouser > Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded > Panasonic EEU-ED2W680 (used in the 2nd repair) and Mouser > Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded > Panasonic EEU-EE2W680 (used in the 3rd repair which was not shown here). Both of them are also high ripple current handling plus long life... icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by lex: Dec 7 2013, 12:54 AM
Kahlid74
post Dec 7 2013, 03:58 AM

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QUOTE(lex @ Dec 6 2013, 11:50 AM)
Sounds much like the power supply section blew, possibly some weak, failed and/or faulty components. Usually should be fixable/repairable... hmm.gif

Yups, can use the same capacitor (that more expensive X8R high temperature ceramic) for both. nod.gif

Either ones should be fine, just different packaging from the details on the website. Another option would be Nichicon PW series (slightly higher specifications than Nichicon PS series). wink.gif

Their specifications are much lower than the Nichicon CS series. Here are some similar capacitors (with way better specifications than the ones you've chosen): Mouser > Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded > Panasonic EEU-ED2W680 (used in the 2nd repair) and Mouser > Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded > Panasonic EEU-EE2W680 (used in the 3rd repair which was not shown here). Both of them are also high ripple current handling plus long life... icon_rolleyes.gif
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All capacitors purchased, UPS ground, should get them middle of next week. Kind of excited to replace them and see where it then lies. Thank you so much for all your help on this.

So all the parts have now come in and I've begun cleaning glue areas. Two specific areas proved very difficult and unfortunately, the green came up with them. The glue was so hard/crusted that it took the green with it when it came off. Is the board still workable?

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stargamer
post Dec 13 2013, 04:56 AM

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can u repair razer mako 2.1 speaker? its having clicking sound

http://www.fixya.com/support/t8840595-raze...ko_2_0_speakers

This post has been edited by stargamer: Dec 13 2013, 04:58 AM
TSlex
post Dec 13 2013, 05:02 AM

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QUOTE(Kahlid74 @ Dec 13 2013, 03:11 AM)
So all the parts have now come in and I've begun cleaning glue areas.  Two specific areas proved very difficult and unfortunately, the green came up with them.  The glue was so hard/crusted that it took the green with it when it came off.  Is the board still workable?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
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That's typical as the chemical from the degraded glue has "eaten" into the solder resist layer (that green thingy). Usually its still workable, as long as you did not break any fine traces. Make sure those traces are still connected to each other, and check for possible shorts with surrounding copper areas (e.g. bits of copper layers pulled up and mangled). There are large areas of copper that is mostly either (hot) GND or +350VDC (or +154VDC for U.S version). Removing degraded glue from that resistor (encased in heat shrink tubing) should have been a piece of cake (and I did not have to remove that resistor) but not sure how you've gotten that "ugly" (lots of scrape marks can be seen). What tool did you use? hmm.gif

QUOTE(stargamer @ Dec 13 2013, 04:56 AM)
can u repair razer mako 2.1 speaker? its having clicking sound

http://www.fixya.com/support/t8840595-raze...ko_2_0_speakers
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Yups, I can repair that Razer Mako speaker system. Have already fixed/repaired 3 units so far, and all have the same ticking sound syndrome (plus other problems). icon_rolleyes.gif
Kahlid74
post Dec 13 2013, 06:48 AM

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QUOTE(lex @ Dec 12 2013, 03:47 PM)
That's typical as the chemical from the degraded glue has "eaten" into the solder resist layer (that green thingy). Usually its still workable, as long as you did not break any fine traces. Make sure those traces are still connected to each other, and check for possible shorts with surrounding copper areas (e.g. bits of copper layers pulled up and mangled). There are large areas of copper that is mostly either (hot) GND or +350VDC (or +154VDC for U.S version). Removing degraded glue from that resistor (encased in heat shrink tubing) should have been a piece of cake (and I did not have to remove that resistor) but not sure how you've gotten that "ugly" (lots of scrape marks can be seen). What tool did you use? hmm.gif
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I just used a small flat head screw driver and an Exacto knife. The exacto knife is probably what did it. I tried to be super careful but that glue, when it gets super hard like that, it won't budge.
TSlex
post Dec 13 2013, 04:27 PM

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QUOTE(Kahlid74 @ Dec 13 2013, 06:48 AM)
I just used a small flat head screw driver and an Exacto knife.  The exacto knife is probably what did it.  I tried to be super careful but that glue, when it gets super hard like that, it won't budge.
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Must have patience, padawan. As mentioned some time ago (here: Post #11), degraded glue removal can be very tedious and have to proceed slowly (and carefully/meticulously) to avoid damaging/breaking PCB traces. When using a sharp knife, try avoid directly touching the PCB (otherwise there will be deep scrape and scratch marks, and possibly damaging/breaking fine PCB traces)... hmm.gif

This post has been edited by lex: Dec 13 2013, 04:31 PM
Kahlid74
post Dec 13 2013, 09:55 PM

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QUOTE(lex @ Dec 13 2013, 03:27 AM)
Must have patience, padawan. As mentioned some time ago (here: Post #11), degraded glue removal can be very tedious and have to proceed slowly (and carefully/meticulously) to avoid damaging/breaking PCB traces. When using a sharp knife, try avoid directly touching the PCB (otherwise there will be deep scrape and scratch marks, and possibly damaging/breaking fine PCB traces)... hmm.gif
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Indeed. I thought I was being gently but perhaps not gentle enough.

So check this out. In the mean time, with these being kind of rare now, I purchased a "Working" Gigaworks sound system off Ebay. Upon arrival it has the exact same issue as my system which is crazy! The seller is insistent it was working when he sent it, which even if it wasn't he can throw UPS under the bus as he wants me to file a claim with them, which I did. The problem is I will not give up the boards to UPS to investigate. So we'll see where this goes.

Sooo crazy. Same exact issue, no power, no red light period. How bizarre.
chrislue
post Jan 13 2014, 05:15 PM

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hi, lex, what do you use to remove those degraded glue, they are very hard, thanks!
k3lvinNdad
post Jan 13 2014, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(chrislue @ Jan 13 2014, 05:15 PM)
hi, lex, what do you use to remove those degraded glue, they are very hard, thanks!
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i think with small screw drive or penknife will do...but careful
TSlex
post Jan 13 2014, 10:14 PM

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QUOTE(chrislue @ Jan 13 2014, 05:15 PM)
hi, lex, what do you use to remove those degraded glue, they are very hard, thanks!
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Usually I would use a flat head screwdriver, and very rarely I would use anything sharp like a knife and/or blade. Often have to proceed slowly and carefully (bit by bit on difficult patches) thus must have patience also as you do not want to damage any fine PCB traces. icon_rolleyes.gif

chrislue
post Jan 17 2014, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(lex @ Jan 13 2014, 10:14 PM)
Usually I would use a flat head screwdriver, and very rarely I would use anything sharp like a knife and/or blade. Often have to proceed slowly and carefully (bit by bit on difficult patches) thus must have patience also as you do not want to damage any fine PCB traces. icon_rolleyes.gif
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Thanks, that's what I think, really time consuming and need patience.

I have another question, are general purpose capacitors OK for the 2 capacitors of 100v 330uf? Since I can't find neither Rubycon ZLJ nor ZLH here. I have Rubycon YXA and NIPPON KMF series.
TSlex
post Jan 17 2014, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(chrislue @ Jan 17 2014, 02:40 PM)
Thanks, that's what I think, really time consuming and need patience.

I have another question, are general purpose capacitors OK for the 2 capacitors of 100v 330uf? Since I can't find neither Rubycon ZLJ nor ZLH here. I have Rubycon YXA and NIPPON KMF series.
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This subwoofer power supply is switched mode type, thus the filter capacitors (at the secondary output section) should have been those low ESR or low impedance type, such as those I've chosen like Rubycon ZLJ and Rubycon ZLH series. That Rubycon YXA series is a standard (general purpose) capacitors with low ripple current handling. However Nippon Chemicon KMF series would be much better as its targeted as low impedance product, and had better/higher ripple current handling than Rubycon YXA series. Anyway, Rubycon YXA should have been already EOL'ed. Are those counterfeit capacitors? Diameter and lead pitch/spacing also goes into the capacitor selection. Does those capacitors have the correct diameter (12.5mm or less) and lead pitch/spacing (5mm)? hmm.gif


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