Did you use any solder flux and/or solder paste during desoldering? What was the desoldering tool used? For the top layer, scrape a bit of solder resist off to near the hole expose some fresh copper (has to be shiny). Clean with isopropyl alcohol. With help of solder flux, put some solder on the exposed copper. Make sure the solder sticks to the exposed copper (if not then clean and try again). Make an "L" shape wire from any scrap leads (must be of good thickness). Solder one side of the "L" wire on the fresh exposed copper already tinned with solder. The other end should be through the hole. Make sure the snap-in legs can fit thru the hole with that "L" wire together. May not look pretty but gets the job done. Check the image below...


This post has been edited by lex: Sep 3 2013, 07:09 PM

I used my soldering iron and a solder sucker, but I think you're right and it got too hot. I'll follow your instructions to repad the hole.
Thanks Lex.
Oh, I just had another set of these speakers turn up. With the help of your post and a lot of luck I hope to have all four sets running again.
I'll let you know how I go.
Cheers
Rod

Remember the solder flux...

If you are going to use ceramic type for that 0.1uF capacitor, then make sure the ceramic dielectric is either NP0/C0G (most prefered but quite costly for 0.1uF radial leaded part), X7R, X8R (high temperature type which was the one used here) or U2J (new kid on the block, almost as good as C0G/NP0). Avoid those with Y5V, Z5U and X5R dielectric as their capacitance can drift wildly (very large variations) with temperature.

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 3 2013, 08:03 PM

Thanks Lex, I'll make sure to check the specs:)

Hi !
I need help.
I have a problem with Creative Gigaworks S750.
I turn button on from 230V, led turns in green - ok. At power on from remote, sistem turns on then automatic turns off. If I turns once again from remote, sistem turns on and is works normally.At these resets, audio levels is setting to default.
All capacitors from power board was checked with a ESR Meter and is it ok. No blown(balloon) capacitors.
Change only (at ESR meter it was ok):
- 4x 470uF 200V 105C
- 5x 220uF 35V 105C
- 5x 100uF 35V 105C
- 2x 47uF 25V 105C
Same problem. What could be?
Thanks !

First and foremost, did you remove the degraded glue from critical areas especially the feedback section? Also check for degraded glue on the audio processing board, in particular those that touch/adhere to the I.Cs on the PCB...

Besides the ESR reading, check the capacitance of those capacitors below 100uF. Do check that 0.1uF capacitor that is very close to the heatsink (also part of the feedback section), and recommend replacing it as well (with a better capacitor). Also what was the replacement capacitor brand and series used?

Hi!
I don't think it is from glue, because impedance measurement in hi - Mohm show me no value.
The problem was from the beginning, 4 years ago, but not agresive like now.
At that time - 2009, sistem is reset perhaps once at two months.
Capacitor 0.1 uF show me an ESR 100nF - is ok.
Audio system is protected by an UPS -APC from 2009.
Uploaded the problem on the youtube. Look at the link
www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNjoj4JKqFY

Yes or no? Did you clear/clean the degraded glue first? Here's a re-quote from my first post... And here's another user from long time ago, refer to his/her post here... Beacuse the degraded glue can create "phantom components" and/or "phantom circuits". Add to that, many test meters do not operate in the high voltage range and not at all/entire frequency ranges.

Because that capacitor is an electrolytic type plus very close to the heatsink. Not the ESR reading but the capacitance reading because its rectifying/smoothing the feedback signals from the opto-isolator. All electrolytic capacitors can vary their capacitance and ESR greatly with temperature, And usually for electrolytics, its capacitance increases and ESR decreases with higher temperatures. That's why I've asked about the smaller capacitors there, especially that 0.1uF because its part of the SMPS feedback section. Also you have not told us the brand and series of the replacement capacitors.

Doesn't matter whether there's an UPS, AVR (voltage regulator) and/or external power filter because the internal power supply already has power filter as well as inrush current protection. Looking at that video, are those volume level lights flickering?

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 9 2013, 02:22 AM

Hi !
This is the capacitor values:
4x470uF/200V 105 C, KSC
5x220uF/35V Low Esr 105C, SAMWHA
5x100uF/35V Low Esr 105C, SAMHWA
1x47uF/25V Low Esr 105C, SAMHWA

About video on youtube ... leds flickering from the frame rate processing.
I will try to remove glue with hot air.
Next week I will change: 2x330uf/100V, 68uF/450V, 100nF/50V - X7R 10% -- instead of 0.1uF/50V.
I asked a question. Can I change 2x330v/200V SAMWHA instead of 2x330uF/100V ?
Thanks!

KSC (King-Sun) and Samwha? Those are not good capacitors. Not recommended at all....

Those degraded glue are not hot glue. You have to slowly scrape them off actually.

You can use capacitors with higher voltage rating but do not use Samwha. Use original capacitors from Nichicon, Panasonic, Nippon Chemicon and/or Rubycon. Also make sure they are of the correct series also (as shown in my guide here).

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 8 2013, 11:15 PM

Hi!
I forget to tell you.... 3 months ago I hear like an explode at power on 230V but dont find no one capacitor problem. Now after clean from glue, find a capacitor 471K( ESR say 476 pF)/250V/400V without a pin. In that space it is a problem, dont know where is the second link to the capacitor. See the images. Do you have any pictures ?
Thanks!

This varistor is compatible: JVR14N471K Varistor 300V AC; 385V DC instead of 471k/250V/400V ?
This is more better: VAR10-300 Varistor:metal-oxide; THT; 300V AC; 385V DC; 470V; ±10%; 2.5kA


Attached thumbnail(s)

Remember the blown diode in my post? I've already suspected that it was due to that degraded glue. That is a safety "Y capacitor". The markings "471" denotes 0.47nF or 470pF. The "second link" is connected to the primary GND (sometimes referred to as "hot" GND), which is that through hole you've pointed out in the attached picture. For replacement, use a certified safety Y capacitor of the same capacitance (0.47nF or 470pF), and not just any plain capacitor.

Nopes! They are not the same! Inadvertantly may cause a disaster if you use it instead of a proper/correct replacement (possibly electrical shock and/or causing the mains circuit breaker to trip). Varistors are for the mains input section and there's already an existing one on that power supply board. Anyway, what's your level of electrical/electronics knowledge?

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 9 2013, 03:09 PM

The "second link" connected to the primary GND is only from the right photo ? In the left photo no second link ?
This is ok 470pF/400V capacitor, Y1, CY1Y-470P 400V instead of 471K ?

See the image below, this is from a 3rd unit that came in for repair...


If its a certified Y capacitor then it should be fine. Example of a safety X/Y capacitor here: TDK CD series...

I am learning so much here

Hi Lex !
Changed all capacitors from the power board,removed the glue, same problem. At power on from remote, relay start then stops fast.
Do you have a schematic (circuit) diagram for power board ?
Thanks.

Still using those (crappy) Samwha capacitors? How many times did the relay clicked? After the initial power on from standby, there should only be one click (to indicate the relay switching on). This relay is gets its power from the secondary side of the standby section, thus all problems should point back to the standby section. Did you remove any degraded glue on the the other boards, besides the power supply board?

Try this link here: Index of /S750 PSU/Power Supply Schematics...

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 15 2013, 01:34 AM

I remove glue from the board where there are many capacitors >30 pieces.At power 230V don't hear relay. only from power remote = 2 clicks (power on - power off , very fast). I think it is a circuit remote problem. At next power on from remote, audio sistem works normally.

This post has been edited by Galeak: Sep 15 2013, 02:04 AM

There are also glue on the I/O board (where the audio input and output connectors as well as the external control pod interface connector is located). Have you checked that one? Should be only a single click when pressing the power on from the control pod. There could be some problems either with the remote control line, standby section and/or simply a weak relay. You will need to check/monitor the control signal to that transistor controlling the relay.

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 15 2013, 02:36 AM

Hi Lex!
Transistors near the relay is ok. check the D6,D7 - BR100 = bad diodes.

This post has been edited by Galeak: Sep 17 2013, 01:45 AM