Hello friends,

greetings from Pakistan. I have purchased creative gigaworks s750 from a guy around 1 year before. It was working great. But due to some electricity issue the PSU is damaged and not a single repairing guy agreed for repairing the unit. Is it possible to tell me how can i get PSU and amp unit from somewhere? or anyone can share the diagram of PSU and amplifier unit so that I can contact some expert with diagram for repairing of the unit.

Regards

Can you post any pictures? Maybe the faulty components are visible. The psu schematic is here: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=Atta...post&id=4355159

Thank you for your kind reply. Do u have such kind of pdf for other circuit e.g. amplifier for subwoofer and each channel? mean to say a complete pdf for inside circuit?

Hello teebo
I m sarfraz from Pakistan. I got these speakers from a person who import this set in 2006. He rarely used them. After buying these speakers i mostly use them for listening music on 2.1 channel using 3.5mm pin through pod using my phone. One day i bought a new led tv having optical and i use optical.cable to test 7.1. the volume was 50% and suddenly.the speakers went silent. I tried to turn on the amp from pod but the relay/green light just on for few miliseconds and went again off. I look every repair shop in town but no one agreed for repair. then i found a shop in a nearby city and dropped my subwoofer for repair. He said the STA575 IC is damaged and need to be replaced. i import them from hong kong and finally reached me after a month. I gave the ics to repairing guy and he said he will solve the issue. but after 15 days he said that the system is very complicated and wont be repaired from me. Then i get my system back and kept it in my office. One day again i tried to turn on my subwoofer then it become live. I plugged the satellite speakers and started playing song then only subwoofer were giving me an small amount of bass but no satellite speaker sound. Again i went to another city and found a repairer. He spend almost 6 hours but wont be able to.find the issue or problem. Now he is asking me for the circuit diagram of amplifier or complete internal hardware diagram to understand how the system circuit works? is their anyone helps me providing schematic type diagram of amplifier for each channel. would be thankful.
Regards
Jojee

bro is their any possibility to get schematic of amp and other circuit rather than PSU?

Why so many posts asking the same thing?

There is no schematic for other boards.

Hi comrade, you need disassemble the subwoofer box and check the power supply board for visible damages and bulged capacitors. All is described in this topic. Just scroll all the way up and read a see the pictures follow the procedures. The unit is very easy to diagnose and repair just with a basic skilled electrotechnician with just only a digital multimeter with basic of measeurements and soldering skills. Good luck.

Google translator: Привет товарищ, вам нужно разобрать коробку сабвуфера и проверить плату блока питания на видимые повреждения и выпуклые конденсаторы. Все описано в этой теме. Просто прокрутите весь путь вверх и прочтите фотографии, следуя инструкциям. Устройство очень легко диагностировать и ремонтировать, используя только квалифицированного электротехника, имеющего всего лишь цифровой мультиметр с базовыми навыками измерения и пайки. Удачи.

There is no schematics for he amplifier or audio processing boards availible. I've asked creative company directly but they don't provide schematics for theirs products sadly. Only way to get the schemes is to redraw it by visual. I don't understand how someone in charge with repairing electronics can't find the fault. This sound system is overcomplicated but very easy to diagnose. Especialy the PSU board where are no complicated parts such as chips or microprocessors. Just make sure that the PSU is working properly (measure the output voltages), if not, fix it first and after that go ahead to amplifier boards which are rare to fail, especialy STA575 which have some own protections inside. For the amp. boards check C39, 40, 41 caps and broken STA575 pins. Each STA757 drives 2 channels or subwoofer coils.

Hello!

I just repaired my S750, and turned it on without an input signal. The "Power" button on the remote control was pressed, and voltage from the relay to the amplifiers was applied.
After the S750 stood there for about half an hour, the aluminum radiator with the TOP243Y installed heated up to a temperature that the hand could hardly withstand.
Is this normal for the S750?

And the second question: who can tell - what is the best way to glue the capacitors to the board (well - if the manufacturer and the name or brand of glue are named), so that they hold tight during vibration?

Thanks in advance to everyone!

And sorry if the translation is bad. )

Hello, in general the heat dissipation in the power parts of the PSU board is poor, (cost effective) and cause fail of the unit over time, so it means it will warm up quite fast.

For the glue you can use any non-corrosive, non-conductive, non-reactive with metals and plastic materials made caoacitors from sealant or glue which can withstand long term 100+ °C without degrading.

This post has been edited by MichalD: Nov 6 2019, 04:57 AM

Thank you, MichalD!
I have already found a special compound for gluing, and this question is no longer worth it.
The issue with the heat sink temperature is much more serious! Here's what interests me: how much is the aluminum heat sink in the original device (the one on which the TOP243Y converter is installed) heated, not in idle mode? That is, when the supply voltage is turned on and the relay is closed, it supplies voltage to the power amplifier boards, but the output power of these amplifiers is zero.
In my experience (I have been working with electronic equipment for quite some time), and in theory, switching power supplies have a very high efficiency, and remain practically cold at a small load.
The heat sink in my device heats up, according to my feelings, to 60 ... 70 degrees Celsius idling in the open air, and this does not seem normal to me (I did not measure the current consumed from the power source in this mode, and if it turned out to be significant - that would explain). But still: I really want to hear how much standardly this heat sink idles for others - at least by the sensation of hand? Otherwise, I do not dare to permanently install everything in the case, fearing severe overheating in a confined space, and failure

The unit is in standby mode (red LED on control pod is ON) is comsuming about 8.4 watts of power with power factor 0.5.

In idle mode (master LED and volume level LEDs on control pod are ON) but no sound is playing is consuming about 45 watts of power with power factor 0.57. I will left this mode now for about 1 hour and let you know the temperature, but note my unit is with upgraded heatsinks (as the pictures upper) all interconnected to the outside black ribbed heatsink, so my heat management is much more improoved in comparison with factory released unit.


After more than 1.5 hour in standby mode my outer ribbed black heatsink is about 39 °C with my cooling FAN OFF. So it means that in stock unit is the aluminium heatsink sheet where is TOP243Y may be really hot, unsustainable with bare hand. More than 60-70 °C or even more. This excessive heat leads to the failure of the unit over time. If you want to save your S750 check my detailed upgrade upper and make your own upgrade.

This post has been edited by MichalD: Nov 17 2019, 06:52 PM

Hello,

I have C40 and C41 blown out. I havent found here any information about C41. Does anybody know what kind of C41 is and its rating? It is on the AMP board.
Thank you.

https://pictr.com/images/2019/11/17/5YaRvu.md.jpg

Hi, C41 is SMD capacitor 100nF 100V. If C40 and C41 is blowned you need to replace C39 too. There is a relationship between these.

This post has been edited by MichalD: Nov 18 2019, 05:50 AM

Sir what are the ideal output voltages?

CN6: positions/pins
-----------------------------------------------------------------
1pos - 2neg...+9V
2neg - 3pos...-8V
4pos - 2neg/5neg...about 12V+ or near 13V
7pos - 8neg about 4.4V (4.1 is still OK)

6pos - 2neg/5neg is +9V input controlled by control pod can't be measured without control pod connected with fully functional PSU board
----------------------------------------------------------------

For the CN4 and CN5 don't know exact pins because i haven't the PSU board by hand now, but it is following:

CN5 output of L1 and CN4 output of L2 near 90V for refurbished PSU board with no load

CN4, CN5 pin 3 is 0V and the other pins are near +24V and near -24V.

Thank you sir. is it possible i can send the board by post to you and you help.me.repairing this?

I am afraid it is not possible, i am not doing this service commercially, it consumes a lot of free time, i am sorry.

But anyway, I can help you remotely.

Can you please share email address...i will send you video about what my system is doing

Thank you so much, MichalD!
This is exactly what I wanted to know, and my device in standby mode consumes the same power from the network as yours, and now I am calm that it works as it should!
I will think about the upgrade, taking into account your method.

Once again, many thanks for your reply, and I am very grateful to you for the actions that you had to do to answer me in such detail.