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PC Audio Creative GigaWorks S750 7.1 speaker repair, A short guide and info with pictures...

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MichalD
post Feb 22 2019, 03:19 AM

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QUOTE(paleta @ Feb 21 2019, 07:05 PM)
Hello everyone. I have a S750 with no power...
Hello.

1. Remove (scrape off) all glue from the board.
2. Do you have a digital multimeter with diode test function? If yes, check the D9 and D10. After that check C8 and R49.
3. If some of these components are failed your TOP243Y is probably failed too and need replace.
4. Your 470uF caps looks bulged and it's condition will not be okay i think.

This post has been edited by MichalD: Feb 22 2019, 03:20 AM
nautilus7
post Feb 22 2019, 05:10 AM

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QUOTE(MichalD @ Feb 21 2019, 01:04 AM)
Finaly you are done with your set, great job  rclxms.gif . I like your red/black wiring, you have shorted the wires just for necessary length. Very nice!
What about the relay clicking issue in your case, it's gone too?
*
Thanks! I have completed the restoration since last October I think, but I didn't have time to post the pictures. Of course, the relay clicking issue is fixed for good!

nautilus7
post Feb 22 2019, 06:02 AM

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@paleta, your top243 doesn't look good... and the 470uF caps also seem bulged too, like MichalD said.

This post has been edited by nautilus7: Feb 22 2019, 06:04 AM
djozmo P
post Apr 8 2019, 09:15 AM

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Hello.. Is there anyone who can fix it? I make the amplifier portion of cargo from Turkey.
djozmo P
post Apr 8 2019, 03:01 PM

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Hello.. is your part list same with MichalD part list ?
i have 3 gigaworks s750 and i will repair twos.
Other one of them Zero and i will upgrade that one.
I understand electronics, but not as much as you.
İf you know more recent component of MichalD list than can you suggest for me?
Will Digi-key send me the pieces at of list with the list ? Because I know that it does not write values on stone capacitors.
This high hours capacitors more good than low esr?
Because usually suggest LOW ESR Capacitor for SMPS.
i am sorry my bad english please.
Can you help me please ? Because i love S750 Gigaworks.
djozmo P
post Apr 8 2019, 04:24 PM

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QUOTE(nautilus7 @ Feb 22 2019, 01:02 AM)
@paleta, your top243 doesn't look good... and the 470uF caps also seem bulged too, like MichalD said.
*
Hello.. is your part list same with MichalD part list ?
i have 3 gigaworks s750 and i will repair twos.
Other one of them Zero and i will upgrade that one.
I understand electronics, but not as much as you.
İf you know more recent component of MichalD list than can you suggest for me?
Will Digi-key send me the pieces at of list with the list ? Because I know that it does not write values on stone capacitors.
This high hours capacitors more good than low esr?
Because usually suggest LOW ESR Capacitor for SMPS.
i am sorry my bad english please.
Can you help me please ? Because i love S750 Gigaworks.
nautilus7
post Apr 8 2019, 07:54 PM

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No, the parts are not the same. What parts do you need? Are you planning to replace all caps (electrolytics and ceramic)?

I am not sure I understand what you mean about digikey. You have to manually select one-by-one your products, put them in the shopping cart, and order them. At least that is what I did when buying from Mouser.

The electrolytic caps me and MichalD used are high quality, long life, low ESR caps from top brands like Rubycon, Nichicon, Panasonic, Nippon Chemi-con.

This post has been edited by nautilus7: Apr 8 2019, 07:57 PM
djozmo P
post Apr 9 2019, 03:12 AM

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QUOTE(nautilus7 @ Apr 8 2019, 02:54 PM)
No, the parts are not the same. What parts do you need? Are you planning to replace all caps (electrolytics and ceramic)?

I am not sure I understand what you mean about digikey. You have to manually select one-by-one your products, put them in the shopping cart, and order them. At least that is what I did when buying from Mouser.

The electrolytic caps me and MichalD used are high quality, long life, low ESR caps from top brands like Rubycon, Nichicon, Panasonic, Nippon Chemi-con.
*
Thank you so much for answer..
Yes i planning to replace all capasitor.
i said, i have three Gigaworks s750.
Already my a gigaworks it was never used in the zero box. i think it will broken at future.
Other two, broken but working..
Sorry i'm 34 years old and i'm already a DJ. (At clubs since 2001)
Just i know. On the ceramic capacitors are not write full specs.
if Digi-Key send to me all in one packet. i cant. i hope Digi-Key send to me with list style.
(That is to say that the parts are in separate packages and write the inventory code on them.)
i looked MichalD's part list on Digi-Key and i dont see Low ESR Specs on Caps. i see just long life specs MichalD's part list..
Can you give me your part list on Mouser?
And last. Wouldn't it be better if we wore parts of higher UF? Without much exaggeration. For example input 470uF 200V >> 6**uF 200V ?
nautilus7
post Apr 10 2019, 09:06 AM

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Hi, mouser, digikey, etc send each part in separate plastic bag with a sticker/label with exact product specs and code numbers. Don't worry about this.

MichalD's electrolytics are low ESR. I don't know what digikey says, but you can also check the product specs (pdf) that comes directly from the manufacturer.

Replacing caps with bigger capacity ones isn't necessarily good or bad. It depends on the purpose of the capacitor.

For example the mains input caps (470uF 200V) can be replaced with bigger ones and basically all electrolytics can be replaced with bigger ones, if I remember correctly, since their purpose is to act as current "banks". Bigger ones can provide more current, or more correctly "current with less ripple". If this will actually make any difference, I don't really know. Also you have to consider the size, because bigger caps may not fit. Also, if you replace existinf caps with much higher capacity ones, maybe you have problems with the RC time constant.

In other caps like some high voltage ceramic ones, their value is carefully selected in relation to a resistance to form a snubber network to filter the higt voltage spikes created by the transformers. So you shouldn't change the value of these.

Also, every low voltage ceramic cap is connected in parallel with one electrolytic. This is a trick to have low ESR value, without using high quality low ESR caps. So theese ceramics don't need to be quality/expensive ones, but anyway.

My mouser parts list:
CODE

1x 450V   68uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UCY2W680MHD
4x 200V  470uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-LGX2D471MELZ35
2x 100V 1000uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UHW2A102MHD
2x 100V  390uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UHW2A391MHD

5x 35V 220uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FR1V221
5x 35V 100uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FR1V101B
2x 25V  47uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FR1E470B

12x 100V 0.1uF  -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/581-AR211C104K4R
9x  100V 100pF  -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/581-AR211A101K4R
4x  500V 0.01uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/581-SR217C103KAR
4x  100V 1uF    -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-FA26X7R2A10500

1x 1kV   47pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CC45SL3AD470JYNA
5x 1kV  470pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CK45-R3AD471K-NA
4x 1kV  220pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CK45-R3AD221K-NA
1x 1kV 3300pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CK45-B3AD332NNA
1x 1kV 4700pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CK45-B3AD472KYGA

4x 450VDC 0.1uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-ECW-FD2W104JQ

1x 250Vac 470pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/81-DE1B3RA471KA4BN1F
1x Optocoupler -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-FOD817A



Also for the audio boards and for the control pod:

CODE

 2x 50volts   1uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UES1H010MDM
35x 50volts 4.7uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UES1H4R7MEM
13x 50volts  22uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1H220MEM
16x 50volts 2.2uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1H2R2MDM
10x 25volts 100uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1E101MPM
23x 50volts  10uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1H100MDM
 5x 25volts  47uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1E470MEM



In some cases (in ceramic and audio caps) I ordered more than what is needed in case something goes wrong when soldering, etc.
Also for audio caps I used higher voltage caps, as long as I didn't have any problems with space/size.

I hope I didn't forget anything...

This post has been edited by nautilus7: Apr 10 2019, 09:42 AM
djozmo P
post Apr 10 2019, 10:44 PM

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QUOTE(nautilus7 @ Apr 10 2019, 04:06 AM)
Hi, mouser, digikey, etc send each part in separate plastic bag with a sticker/label with exact product specs and code numbers. Don't worry about this.

MichalD's electrolytics are low ESR. I don't know what digikey says, but you can also check the product specs (pdf) that comes directly from the manufacturer.

Replacing caps with bigger capacity ones isn't necessarily good or bad. It depends on the purpose of the capacitor.

For example the mains input caps (470uF 200V) can be replaced with bigger ones and basically all electrolytics can be replaced with bigger ones, if I remember correctly, since their purpose is to act as current "banks". Bigger ones can provide more current, or more correctly "current with less ripple". If this will actually make any difference, I don't really know. Also you have to consider the size, because bigger caps may not fit. Also, if you replace existinf caps with much higher capacity ones, maybe you have problems with the RC time constant.

In other caps like some high voltage ceramic ones, their value is carefully selected in relation to a resistance to form a snubber network to filter the higt voltage spikes created by the transformers. So you shouldn't change the value of these.

Also, every low voltage ceramic cap is connected in parallel with one electrolytic. This is a trick to have low ESR value, without using high quality low ESR caps. So theese ceramics don't need to be quality/expensive ones, but anyway.

My mouser parts list:
CODE

1x 450V   68uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UCY2W680MHD
4x 200V  470uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-LGX2D471MELZ35
2x 100V 1000uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UHW2A102MHD
2x 100V  390uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UHW2A391MHD

5x 35V 220uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FR1V221
5x 35V 100uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FR1V101B
2x 25V  47uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FR1E470B

12x 100V 0.1uF  -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/581-AR211C104K4R
9x  100V 100pF  -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/581-AR211A101K4R
4x  500V 0.01uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/581-SR217C103KAR
4x  100V 1uF    -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-FA26X7R2A10500

1x 1kV   47pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CC45SL3AD470JYNA
5x 1kV  470pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CK45-R3AD471K-NA
4x 1kV  220pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CK45-R3AD221K-NA
1x 1kV 3300pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CK45-B3AD332NNA
1x 1kV 4700pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-CK45-B3AD472KYGA

4x 450VDC 0.1uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-ECW-FD2W104JQ

1x 250Vac 470pF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/81-DE1B3RA471KA4BN1F
1x Optocoupler -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-FOD817A



Also for the audio boards and for the control pod:

CODE

 2x 50volts   1uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UES1H010MDM
35x 50volts 4.7uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UES1H4R7MEM
13x 50volts  22uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1H220MEM
16x 50volts 2.2uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1H2R2MDM
10x 25volts 100uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1E101MPM
23x 50volts  10uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1H100MDM
 5x 25volts  47uF -- https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UFG1E470MEM

In some cases (in ceramic and audio caps) I ordered more than what is needed in case something goes wrong when soldering, etc.
Also for audio caps I used higher voltage caps, as long as I didn't have any problems with space/size.

I hope I didn't forget anything...
*
Thank you so so much.
The answers were exactly what I wanted. For Digikey.
What do you think? Which is better? MichalD's capacitor list or yours?
Or which is more update (for parts) ?
I'm a little perfectionist, so I'm undecided.
I want to do it once and use it for many years.
I do not know a precedent 5.1 or 7.1 device which is already as beautiful as this device. Do you know?
Also i have z5500 on my saloon. Really it's sound too bad. it's a garbage.
Thank you so so much.
nautilus7
post Apr 11 2019, 09:23 PM

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Thanks.

If your are really a perfectionist, you would search all parts we propose, find alternative, newer or better parts, compare and then decide what to buy!

All parts (mine and michalD's) are from respected manufacturers, and similar in performance. Some are overkill (like the avx ar ceramics - I would probably choose the cheaper sr series if I were to buy again), some are absolutely necessity, like the mains input filter caps.

That being said, I think my electrolytics are a little bit better, except for the Panasonics, where I think MichalD's Rubycons are better.

Mouser doesn't sell Rubycon anyway, so I had to search for another model and I ended up with the Panasonics (which I did not bought from mouse btw, but from another shop, much cheaper).
MichalD
post Apr 12 2019, 03:00 AM

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QUOTE(djozmo @ Apr 8 2019, 08:12 PM)
Thank you so much for answer..
*
Digikey will send to you the parts in separate bags with part description, don't worry about indetification.

High hours capacitors i've used are one of the TOP Brand LOW ESR capacitors. There is direct relationship between low esr and shelf life. Lower ESR = lower self heating = can withstand higher ripple currents = greater lifespan. For what you need el cheapo crap low esr cap which is marked as low esr which can withstand only 2000 hrs if you can have branded rubycon or nichicon or so with 10000 hrs lifespan? Which will last longer you think?

I've rebuild the PSU board with the longest lifespan caps from top brands i've found.
nautilus7
post Apr 12 2019, 08:02 AM

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Hi, I was listening some music the other day... I only used 2 satellite speakers (stereo) and sub of course.

I cranked the volume quite high for testing... I can't remember my gigaworks playing so loud in the past I believe... rclxms.gif rclxm9.gif

This post has been edited by nautilus7: Apr 12 2019, 07:33 PM
MichalD
post Apr 12 2019, 04:57 PM

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QUOTE(nautilus7 @ Apr 12 2019, 01:02 AM)
Hi, I was listening some music the other day...
Hi, that is great, capacitors replacing had its own effect smile.gif
djozmo P
post Apr 13 2019, 03:36 PM

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My brothers, thank you so much. I ordered all the pieces of MichalD from Digikey.
http://www.digikey.com/short/pp8zfm >>>> 186,41$ + 75$ DHL cargo.
That part not unable on Digi-Key - UHW2A102MHD.. i buyed it on mouser 11,49€ + 20€ cargo DHL..
(you know. i will modifiy 3 S750 than i buyed all parts for 3x etc)

But i not find that parts on digikey or mouser. Are these two absolutely necessary after this modification?
FK26X7R2A104K CAP CER 0.1UF 100V X7R RADIAL added between TOP243Y's C and S PIN
FK26X7R2A105K CAP CER 1UF 100V X7R RADIAL added between TOP243Y's C and S PIN

Should I use adhesive for capacitors?
Improper glue is easily spilled, but it can damage the PCB while it is scratching? Is there an easy way to remove this? Acetone Thinner etc?
Because one of the devices is zero and the glue is intact.
The products that are cleaned by LEX are immaculate and scratch free.
I can see this on the front pages of the subject.
I wonder how he cleaned it up. Does anyone knows? With a wood or plastic object? Or acetone or thinner?
MichalD
post Apr 13 2019, 04:07 PM

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QUOTE(djozmo @ Apr 13 2019, 08:36 AM)
My brothers, thank you so much.
For these:

FK26X7R2A104K CAP CER 0.1UF 100V X7R RADIAL added between TOP243Y's C and S PIN
FK26X7R2A105K CAP CER 1UF 100V X7R RADIAL added between TOP243Y's C and S PIN

You can buy locally any other suitable replacement. These are for the relay clicking / control pod reseting issue fix, not necessary to add but you will meet the problem described upper in my topic.

You can use adhesive but without chemicals which could cause damage the corrosion of PCB traces or other parts on the PCB.

Yes you can damage it while scratching the old glue, you need to be carefull, but the traces are repairable if you are a bit skilled in soldering. Use leaded solder.

Lex was not using cleaning chemicals i think, just patience and accurate hand. Try to use some plastic needle or tweezers to scrape off, but some glue blobs are too deep for plastic tools. It depends on the degree of glue degradation, if it is still moldable plastic or dryed out.

Be carefull when desoldering 470uF big caps. You need to good preheat the pads becuase the are deep and full of solder, use solder sucker. If not you may damage the sensitive pad.

Good luck.
teebo
post Apr 28 2019, 07:11 PM

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Hi Guys,

I used this manual to repair my set 5 years ago, it worked fine !

But now my fuse has popped, had a look inside to see whats going on.

I found a capacitor I've replaced blown, also the blue capacitor next to it doesn't look so well.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1gAghjcJ2EFa2XwL7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NKG3VNqiTBZNVcar7


I want to replace it with a better component, searching this topic i think following components should do?

- http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2244548.pdf (EEUFR1E470)
-https://www.digikey.be/product-detail/nl/murata-electronics-north-america/DE1B3KX471KN4AN01F/490-9505-1-ND/4842043 (Blue capacitor)

Then i also found a dark area on the board, some resistors look rather toast.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2RViv2mQnTGWa4gV8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nSwDAmPLFYCeKd8y9

The colour code is baked off, would someone know what values these are or have a link to the correct ones for replacement?
R15 and R16

Also have to replace the fuse, this one will do?. https://be.farnell.com/littelfuse/022903-5m...3-5a/dp/1596587


Thanks !
teebo




MichalD
post Apr 30 2019, 04:37 PM

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QUOTE(teebo @ Apr 28 2019, 12:11 PM)
Hi Guys,

I used this manual to repair my set 5 years ago, it worked fine !
The blue cap is OK, but covered by old glue. Just gently scrape it off or replace with new choose 300VAC for better safety margin.
The panasonic cap is OK.


R15 is 220k 2W or more wattage and R16 is 100k 2W or more wattage. For larger wattage make sure if can be fitted.

For the fuse measure dimmensions of the blowned one. I think it is 5x20 not 5x15. 3.5A rating is enough.
nautilus7
post May 3 2019, 06:26 AM

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About the fuse, I bought ceramic fuse, quick blow, 3.15A, 250VAC, 5x20mm.

MichalD is correct as always.


Even if you replace the parts that look damaged, I think you should investigate further what caused the problem.

Perhaps when you did your original repair, you didn't scrape off all the degraded glue, and now it has turned conductive and started blowing things?

This post has been edited by nautilus7: May 3 2019, 07:57 PM
djozmo P
post May 8 2019, 02:49 PM

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QUOTE(MichalD @ Apr 30 2019, 11:37 AM)
Hi brother. Thank you so much i started my project 1.
but i have some questions.
1. PSU Board C63 normally alum cap but your list ceramic cap.. this is normal ok..?
2. Amplifier boards c21-20-35-36-37-22-69-28 not have negative port? and i removed caps on that ports caps not have negative port.
Should I put random?

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