tomorrow got TT?XD 

your car miss us adi la... long time no see us adi... LOL

try spare key.

Just keep cranking until it starts. Car tend to rest too long will have jammed nozzle. I mean DO NOT let loose of the key until engine hidup. I know usually you guys like to crank 4 cycle then release the key. Wuekekeke not on then recrank again wuekekeke not on then recrank again wuekekeke.

The weird thing was when my first crank, the engine started but jerking all the time, feel like lag of fuel. So I turn it off. Second crank couldn't start anymore. The battery still strong and still have fuel. The feeling during next few crank was the engine trying hard to start but something not allow it to start, just like a car using fake key, mismatch immobiliser. The system don't allow it to start.

Ironman eyes on gaga butt

abang david
itu iswara rear brake bulb and signal bulbs is what model ar? T25 ka?

walauweh! btw, how's the ular doing so far

Brake is T25, signal and reverse is Ba15s. Front parking is T10, signal is Ba15s, headlight is H4. Panel signal is T10.

i found a good shop long ago. its kiong lee at the inti bukit which now also opened a new branch at relau. what i have yet to find is cash to install it. ayam tempted by this which i showed earlier on:

http://www.mudah.my/Turbo+S+Exhaust+Manifo...6922.htm?last=1

the feature of this extractor:

Product Feature:
- Racing Spec With Extra Long 4-2-1 Dessign
- Made from high grade 304 stainless steel.
- Mandrel bent and CNC machined flange.
- TIG/Argon welded perfection.
- Easy to install.
- Plug & Play.
- Improve Performance And Fuel Consumption

the BOLD is where i am concern about...

its at the place i installed my LCP. i called them and they said its rm650. extractor alone. and pasang elsewhere  i plan to visit kiong lee in july or august after i gathered some cash. kiong lee r the experts...they can give proper advice on which type to suit our gaga...

***edit:AAAHHHHHH!!! now kiong lee carries Turbo S too!!! gonna drop by next week la! tempting!!!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=598...elevant_count=1

Gurl, that 1 you show is the form you need to fill up, so the bank can print out a cheque for you. And the cheque the bank issued is call bankdraft, usually they charge RM2.50/transaction. Meaning to say, if you do not have a cheque book, but you need bank assistance to issue a cheque on your behalf so you no need to bring bunch of cash to see your SA at the car dealer, now you get your bank to wtihdraw your money to the bank own account, and the bank issue a cheque for your car dealer. Something like this

Just keep cranking until it starts. Car tend to rest too long will have jammed nozzle. I mean DO NOT let loose of the key until engine hidup. I know usually you guys like to crank 4 cycle then release the key. Wuekekeke not on then recrank again wuekekeke not on then recrank again wuekekeke.

On the topic of exhaust modding, you guys oft repeat a concept that there should be some "backpressure" on the exhaust system to optimize power output, a term most often associated with piping size and runner length.

I think it is worth mentioning that you should never want any "backpressure" in your exhaust system, what you want is the exhaust to NOT flow faster than your intake.

Everytime a cylinder reach the exhaust stroke, the exhaust gas is pumped out at great velocity from the cylinder and creates a vacuum in it's wake. If the runner is not designed in such a way that allows the exhaust to exit the cylinder quick enough, as the piston moves back down from it's top dead center the exhaust will be sucked back in and mix with the next fuel-air mixture, which is undesirable. The best scenario is that the exhaust completely leaves the combustion chamber, leaving a vacuum, helping the piston movement to draw in the intended amount of AF mixture. However, if the exhaust gas leaves too quickly, the AF mixture gets sucked out as well.

As the "pulse" of exhaust gas leaves the header and enter the piping, it continues to tarik the vacuum. This vacuum "sucks" the "pulse" exhaust gas behind it (from the cylinder that fired after the cylinder it originated from), so the exhaust gas behind it moves even faster, and it too sucks the exhaust gas behind it, and the cycle goes on. If your piping is small, the exhaust gas can maintain it's velocity easier, so you gain at low RPM. But as the RPM increases more and more exhaust "pulses" enter the piping at the same time, so it becomes "clogged", creating backpressure pushing the exhaust back inside the cylinder. If your piping is large, the exhaust "pulse" lose momentum sooner at lower RPM hence it loses it's "vacuum" effect. But at higher RPM it doesn't become clogged like small pipings, so there is no backpressure pushing the the exhaust back inside the cylinder and hence you gain high RPM performance.

If you can understand what I typed above, you'll see that backpressure is undesired. it is control of the exhaust flow you want, not backpressure. The whole process of managing vacuum and flow speed in the intake and exhaust system is called the scavenging process.

It also bears mentioned that if you wanna mod exhaust, then mod your intake to match. There is no point installing an extractor that allows your exhaust to escape quickly, but the intake system cannot cope.

Anyway, just bits and pieces I learnt from some sifus before I even owner the Gaga....my 2 kupang. Feel free to correct if I am wrong.

Ironman eyes on gaga butt

open pork anyone? 

so your overall explanation is to show why VTEC and MIVEC work "perfectly" under these conditions? so i can drop my idea of changing adjustable cam gears and camshaft too...since it will still be a trade off.ones gain is another's lost. 

Have you pasang the gauge? Any feed back?

VTEK, MIBEK, CPS is variable timing and valve lift either by hydraulic varying valve lifting timing or by electronic control like CPS. Before certain RPM, valve lift remain at tighter range to prevent loud valve lifting noise like a diesel taxi. As and when reaching valve lifting/timing adjustment RPM, valve lifting angle will be increased so the intake valve open longer to allow more air/fuel mixture to go in the combustion chamber, so as the exhaust valve open longer to allow excessive exhaust fume to evacuate. So, before VTEK, normal car. During VTEK, bcum haicam race car.

Adjustable cam pulley allow you to advance/retard your intake/exhaust timing. Haicam will make your intake/exhaust timing stays longer, or even over lapping each others if wrongly cast. So, you'll make the car a lot more powerful. However, the car may not suitable for daily driving anymore. Idling will be very rough, FC will be greatly compromise. Imagine when your intake is working on the way to combustion chamber, your exhaust valve is opening waiting to blast. More air fuel will be leaving the engine before burning.

A proper setup of haicam definitely needed adjustable cam pulleys. You can choose to use ONLY the adjustable cam pulleys couple with stock cams, but it doesn't help much in terms of performance, you may be able to adjust your torque band a little bit here and there so you can have earlier torque or later but higher horse power. Below is a video of an old 4G15 engine, running on haicam and computer management. Enjoy.

thanks bro. fully understood.sorry la abit dumb.

woo, nice! how much and how you discovered it?

open pork anyone? 

I posted a link to a video of my early morning track day and was not going all out yet at some turns. This is can roughly tell how is the exhaust sound on my car with such setup. Sorry for the wind noise as I kept a small opening on driver's side window. 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10201229693689552

This time lock the car again and unlock. Shift the gear to N and return to P. Crank the engine and started smoothly. Weird case. Sigh... =.=

i found a good shop long ago. its kiong lee at the inti bukit which now also opened a new branch at relau. what i have yet to find is cash to install it. ayam tempted by this which i showed earlier on:

http://www.mudah.my/Turbo+S+Exhaust+Manifo...6922.htm?last=1

the feature of this extractor:

Product Feature:
- Racing Spec With Extra Long 4-2-1 Dessign
- Made from high grade 304 stainless steel.
- Mandrel bent and CNC machined flange.
- TIG/Argon welded perfection.
- Easy to install.
- Plug & Play.
- Improve Performance And Fuel Consumption

the BOLD is where i am concern about...

its at the place i installed my LCP. i called them and they said its rm650. extractor alone. and pasang elsewhere  i plan to visit kiong lee in july or august after i gathered some cash. kiong lee r the experts...they can give proper advice on which type to suit our gaga...

***edit:AAAHHHHHH!!! now kiong lee carries Turbo S too!!! gonna drop by next week la! tempting!!!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=598...elevant_count=1

Since you in southern area, I recommend you service your Flx at Eon Sc, 60 Jalan Langkasuka. nearby larkin.

there are many authorised Proton Edar SCs out there but I tell you, service at Eon much better. You can look for Harun the Service Advisor. very friendly and helpful chap.

Also first 1k and second 5k service use Semi Synthethic. After that 10k onwards use only Fully Synthethic. Big difference and good savings, with FS need to service at 10k intervals.

See the video at 0:25
Very nice
Faulty gear lever sensor?
The BOLD part will come after you install vacuum gauge

Btw I was looking inside both my rear wheel arches this morning and found both have this exposed bolt