Not Batu Maung meh?
I've always wanted to experience a track day

Let's organize

party buih?

oo... ask Penang lang buy things can extra charge RM200 one ~ then i can earn alot adi ~

LOL ! JOM JOM !!! HAHAHAHAHA !!!

....nanti billy ask his friend to come KL collect by bus 

those jz fix it in. no need drilling etc
money value. i was thinking if its cheap den i can modi kaokao. if too exp car makan pon susah still wanna modi meh

dey, apasai lu orang buat kerja funker?

First time known a woman buy car pupose wanna mod kaw kaw. I sudah outdated liao. am i the only one with true stock gaga?

Nanti got ppl send their Prius to Merz and the bangla simply chuck the floormat back into the car after cleaning.

Next thing the owner knows, he's flying across the road 

95 is the one which should be reduced..... ALmost ALL people using 95

Kaki mod who's also a mom....first time see 

nevermind. i let them be. they not afraid die young

It's ok...everyone has a start even those senior kaki used to be new too.

Since talking about extractor, 4-2-1 is better for street use 4-1 is for Mid to high rev usage but need to be reminded that not all will gain at high end with a 4-1 you need the valve to open higher during high revving. That's why you see VTec and Mivec they gain more at high end ith a 4-1 compare to those cars with valve lift system. For saga, it's better to just use a 4-2-1...I'm also running a SS 4-2-1 and find that my usagable rev range is wider now. Torque come in much earlier compare on stock. I have rev the engine just touching redline and the fuel cut kicks in. I'm still using my stock rear muffler as of now but the exhaust note has change after I change the extractor and the mid box. The note is still not loud and very quiet but has a bit more growl to it.

Just a info to share with al owners, if you change to a 4-2-1 the O2 sensor will be plug into 1 of the runners only. This is something I don't really like as the reading form the O2 will not be as accurate as reading from all the 4 runners. I've search around to change the O2 position myself to the down pipe after the 4 runners merge into a single one but got feedback that might caused the CEL to light up as longer the O2 wire, more resistance when the signal comes back to the ECU as the O2 sensor max volt is only 0.9V. Now the car is running a bit rich at higher RPM (it's a safety features from manufacturer to avoid pining and detonations)  as I can clearly hear a popping sound in the car when I release the throttle and when I shift at high RPM. but it's safer to run rich than lean as you won't risk blowing the engine but running more lean give the car a bit more power because the engine will run hotter.

Information is meant to be shared. It's better have more well informed owners than less because some shops can detect a noob and charge extra for that.
For my exhaust setup, I didn't enlarge the piping at all, still with the stock piping, a lot of misconception is that the bigger the better, but not for exhaust, exhaust is about about flow, how fast you can let that exhaust out of the muffler is more important. My target of modding the car is to make it more fun to drive by making the engine more lively and more responsive. A more responsive engine is more fun to drive. I didn't add anything to the exhaust system, I just swap the extractor for a SS one, I remove the stock extractor together with the CAT as the CAT is mounted just after the primary runners on the stock system, I then replace the stock mid box with a aftermarket mid box (not bullet) and the rear muffler retain as stock.

On the piping side, our engine is not forced fed and it's a small CC engine and most of the guys here are on light tune only, so by enlarging the piping you are typically giving the exhaust gas more room to cool down before it exits the muffler, colder gas is denser and harder to push compare to a heated gas inside a small pipe. That's why Japanese tuners they make their exhaust system in a venturi step way. The extractor connected to the exhaust port is larger or same diameter of the exhaust port then down to the downpipe section it's smaller and then reduce a bit in diameter until the middle of the car all the way to the back. This helps the exhaust temp drop to be controlled and maintain it's flow rate.

Billy, it's better to invest in a good and proven extractor than a cap ayam one. They are some local made one which are priced quite good. Also when choosing an extractor make sure the inlet of the runners are smooth and does not have bumped up welding marks or have gaps between the mounting plate.

In conclusion, if you engine is not making more power don't enlarge the piping and some might say after install this the car feel more power..Actually you are just freeing up some of the lost power from the engine due to manufacturing tolerance. Therefore, if you take a bone stock saga for a dyno you will see the dyno result shows less than the advertised one.   

On the O2 sensor, they are using normal cooper wires even from manufacturer, because the signal that transmit to the ECU is via voltage. I haven't measure myself how much is the voltage drop for each increasing length of a cooper wire but there's definitely a drop. Since the ECU read voltage from the O2 a slight drop might send the ECU a wrong reading as the voltage is only 0.9V to 0.1V.       
Iska, my car very stock one always get bullied by Vios and City and MyVi....Hahahaha....now can't free myself for TT. I've miss so many of my home turf TTs also from the guy over at ZTH.....busy with my work and my almost fullmoon daughter now....but I will surely come to join you guys in the future and when I can since I have TTed with other clubs and friends in KL...

Tell me when you've found a good shop in Penang, cos I read all this I also got poisoned aldy

On the topic of exhaust modding, you guys oft repeat a concept that there should be some "backpressure" on the exhaust system to optimize power output, a term most often associated with piping size and runner length.

I think it is worth mentioning that you should never want any "backpressure" in your exhaust system, what you want is the exhaust to NOT flow faster than your intake.

Everytime a cylinder reach the exhaust stroke, the exhaust gas is pumped out at great velocity from the cylinder and creates a vacuum in it's wake. If the runner is not designed in such a way that allows the exhaust to exit the cylinder quick enough, as the piston moves back down from it's top dead center the exhaust will be sucked back in and mix with the next fuel-air mixture, which is undesirable. The best scenario is that the exhaust completely leaves the combustion chamber, leaving a vacuum, helping the piston movement to draw in the intended amount of AF mixture. However, if the exhaust gas leaves too quickly, the AF mixture gets sucked out as well.

As the "pulse" of exhaust gas leaves the header and enter the piping, it continues to tarik the vacuum. This vacuum "sucks" the "pulse" exhaust gas behind it (from the cylinder that fired after the cylinder it originated from), so the exhaust gas behind it moves even faster, and it too sucks the exhaust gas behind it, and the cycle goes on. If your piping is small, the exhaust gas can maintain it's velocity easier, so you gain at low RPM. But as the RPM increases more and more exhaust "pulses" enter the piping at the same time, so it becomes "clogged", creating backpressure pushing the exhaust back inside the cylinder. If your piping is large, the exhaust "pulse" lose momentum sooner at lower RPM hence it loses it's "vacuum" effect. But at higher RPM it doesn't become clogged like small pipings, so there is no backpressure pushing the the exhaust back inside the cylinder and hence you gain high RPM performance.

If you can understand what I typed above, you'll see that backpressure is undesired. it is control of the exhaust flow you want, not backpressure. The whole process of managing vacuum and flow speed in the intake and exhaust system is called the scavenging process.

It also bears mentioned that if you wanna mod exhaust, then mod your intake to match. There is no point installing an extractor that allows your exhaust to escape quickly, but the intake system cannot cope.

Anyway, just bits and pieces I learnt from some sifus before I even owner the Gaga....my 2 kupang. Feel free to correct if I am wrong.

Have you pasang the gauge? Any feed back?

VTEK, MIBEK, CPS is variable timing and valve lift either by hydraulic varying valve lifting timing or by electronic control like CPS. Before certain RPM, valve lift remain at tighter range to prevent loud valve lifting noise like a diesel taxi. As and when reaching valve lifting/timing adjustment RPM, valve lifting angle will be increased so the intake valve open longer to allow more air/fuel mixture to go in the combustion chamber, so as the exhaust valve open longer to allow excessive exhaust fume to evacuate. So, before VTEK, normal car. During VTEK, bcum haicam race car.

Adjustable cam pulley allow you to advance/retard your intake/exhaust timing. Haicam will make your intake/exhaust timing stays longer, or even over lapping each others if wrongly cast. So, you'll make the car a lot more powerful. However, the car may not suitable for daily driving anymore. Idling will be very rough, FC will be greatly compromise. Imagine when your intake is working on the way to combustion chamber, your exhaust valve is opening waiting to blast. More air fuel will be leaving the engine before burning.

A proper setup of haicam definitely needed adjustable cam pulleys. You can choose to use ONLY the adjustable cam pulleys couple with stock cams, but it doesn't help much in terms of performance, you may be able to adjust your torque band a little bit here and there so you can have earlier torque or later but higher horse power. Below is a video of an old 4G15 engine, running on haicam and computer management. Enjoy.