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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX CLUB V44, Satay, Satay everywhere

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ckdenion
post May 23 2013, 09:10 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 23 2013, 09:08 PM)
no. besi putih also...
*
Wad is ur exhaust setup?mana buatbexhaust?might wanna remove bullet..
TSV12Kompressor
post May 23 2013, 09:11 PM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ May 23 2013, 09:10 PM)
Wad is ur exhaust setup?mana buatbexhaust?might wanna remove bullet..
*
4-2-1 > straight flow pipe muffler > S flow muffler

itu kedai dah lingkup.
billy520
post May 23 2013, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(TitanRev @ May 23 2013, 06:05 PM)
Information is meant to be shared. It's better have more well informed owners than less because some shops can detect a noob and charge extra for that.
For my exhaust setup, I didn't enlarge the piping at all, still with the stock piping, a lot of misconception is that the bigger the better, but not for exhaust, exhaust is about about flow, how fast you can let that exhaust out of the muffler is more important. My target of modding the car is to make it more fun to drive by making the engine more lively and more responsive. A more responsive engine is more fun to drive. I didn't add anything to the exhaust system, I just swap the extractor for a SS one, I remove the stock extractor together with the CAT as the CAT is mounted just after the primary runners on the stock system, I then replace the stock mid box with a aftermarket mid box (not bullet) and the rear muffler retain as stock.

On the piping side, our engine is not forced fed and it's a small CC engine and most of the guys here are on light tune only, so by enlarging the piping you are typically giving the exhaust gas more room to cool down before it exits the muffler, colder gas is denser and harder to push compare to a heated gas inside a small pipe. That's why Japanese tuners they make their exhaust system in a venturi step way. The extractor connected to the exhaust port is larger or same diameter of the exhaust port then down to the downpipe section it's smaller and then reduce a bit in diameter until the middle of the car all the way to the back. This helps the exhaust temp drop to be controlled and maintain it's flow rate.

Billy, it's better to invest in a good and proven extractor than a cap ayam one. They are some local made one which are priced quite good. Also when choosing an extractor make sure the inlet of the runners are smooth and does not have bumped up welding marks or have gaps between the mounting plate.

In conclusion, if you engine is not making more power don't enlarge the piping and some might say after install this the car feel more power..Actually you are just freeing up some of the lost power from the engine due to manufacturing tolerance. Therefore, if you take a bone stock saga for a dyno you will see the dyno result shows less than the advertised one.   

On the O2 sensor, they are using normal cooper wires even from manufacturer, because the signal that transmit to the ECU is via voltage. I haven't measure myself how much is the voltage drop for each increasing length of a cooper wire but there's definitely a drop. Since the ECU read voltage from the O2 a slight drop might send the ECU a wrong reading as the voltage is only 0.9V to 0.1V.       
Iska, my car very stock one always get bullied by Vios and City and MyVi....Hahahaha....now can't free myself for TT. I've miss so many of my home turf TTs also from the guy over at ZTH.....busy with my work and my almost fullmoon daughter now....but I will surely come to join you guys in the future and when I can since I have TTed with other clubs and friends in KL...
*
i think i know what to do next. been awhile since i thought of doing exhaust...but proper brand for the 4-2-1? Hot bits those ar? more than rm500 lo...or any recommendations?
r3apers
post May 23 2013, 09:26 PM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ May 23 2013, 09:10 PM)
Wad is ur exhaust setup?mana buatbexhaust?might wanna remove bullet..
*
Stock->stock->stock

QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 23 2013, 09:11 PM)
4-2-1 > straight flow pipe muffler > S flow muffler

itu kedai dah lingkup.
*
Go yew exhaust lo.
lhwj
post May 23 2013, 09:28 PM

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QUOTE(billy520 @ May 23 2013, 09:20 PM)
i think i know what to do next. been awhile since i thought of doing exhaust...but proper brand for the 4-2-1? Hot bits those ar? more than rm500 lo...or any recommendations?
*
Tell me when you've found a good shop in Penang, cos I read all this I also got poisoned aldy thumbup.gif
Celest-Lee
post May 23 2013, 09:30 PM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ May 23 2013, 06:59 PM)
blink.gif Got like that one meh?  rclxub.gif
*
i duno thats why i ask. here is d pic. is it this kind of paper will do?

user posted image

This post has been edited by Celest-Lee: May 23 2013, 09:30 PM
TSV12Kompressor
post May 23 2013, 09:30 PM

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QUOTE(billy520 @ May 23 2013, 09:20 PM)
i think i know what to do next. been awhile since i thought of doing exhaust...but proper brand for the 4-2-1? Hot bits those ar? more than rm500 lo...or any recommendations?
*
ini gooding

user posted image

look at the welding and the way the pipe was bent and joined... drool.gif

user posted image

This post has been edited by V12Kompressor: May 23 2013, 09:31 PM
dares
post May 23 2013, 09:36 PM

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On the topic of exhaust modding, you guys oft repeat a concept that there should be some "backpressure" on the exhaust system to optimize power output, a term most often associated with piping size and runner length.

I think it is worth mentioning that you should never want any "backpressure" in your exhaust system, what you want is the exhaust to NOT flow faster than your intake.

Everytime a cylinder reach the exhaust stroke, the exhaust gas is pumped out at great velocity from the cylinder and creates a vacuum in it's wake. If the runner is not designed in such a way that allows the exhaust to exit the cylinder quick enough, as the piston moves back down from it's top dead center the exhaust will be sucked back in and mix with the next fuel-air mixture, which is undesirable. The best scenario is that the exhaust completely leaves the combustion chamber, leaving a vacuum, helping the piston movement to draw in the intended amount of AF mixture. However, if the exhaust gas leaves too quickly, the AF mixture gets sucked out as well.

As the "pulse" of exhaust gas leaves the header and enter the piping, it continues to tarik the vacuum. This vacuum "sucks" the "pulse" exhaust gas behind it (from the cylinder that fired after the cylinder it originated from), so the exhaust gas behind it moves even faster, and it too sucks the exhaust gas behind it, and the cycle goes on. If your piping is small, the exhaust gas can maintain it's velocity easier, so you gain at low RPM. But as the RPM increases more and more exhaust "pulses" enter the piping at the same time, so it becomes "clogged", creating backpressure pushing the exhaust back inside the cylinder. If your piping is large, the exhaust "pulse" lose momentum sooner at lower RPM hence it loses it's "vacuum" effect. But at higher RPM it doesn't become clogged like small pipings, so there is no backpressure pushing the the exhaust back inside the cylinder and hence you gain high RPM performance.

If you can understand what I typed above, you'll see that backpressure is undesired. it is control of the exhaust flow you want, not backpressure. The whole process of managing vacuum and flow speed in the intake and exhaust system is called the scavenging process.

It also bears mentioned that if you wanna mod exhaust, then mod your intake to match. There is no point installing an extractor that allows your exhaust to escape quickly, but the intake system cannot cope.

Anyway, just bits and pieces I learnt from some sifus before I even owner the Gaga....my 2 kupang. Feel free to correct if I am wrong.
r3apers
post May 23 2013, 09:41 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 23 2013, 09:30 PM)
ini gooding

user posted image

look at the welding and the way the pipe was bent and joined...  drool.gif

user posted image
*
Tig weld.

QUOTE(dares @ May 23 2013, 09:36 PM)
On the topic of exhaust modding, you guys oft repeat a concept that there should be some "backpressure" on the exhaust system to optimize power output, a term most often associated with piping size and runner length.

I think it is worth mentioning that you should never want any "backpressure" in your exhaust system, what you want is the exhaust to NOT flow faster than your intake.

Everytime a cylinder reach the exhaust stroke, the exhaust gas is pumped out at great velocity from the cylinder and creates a vacuum in it's wake. If the runner is not designed in such a way that allows the exhaust to exit the cylinder quick enough, as the piston moves back down from it's top dead center the exhaust will be sucked back in and mix with the next fuel-air mixture, which is undesirable. The best scenario is that the exhaust completely leaves the combustion chamber, leaving a vacuum, helping the piston movement to draw in the intended amount of AF mixture. However, if the exhaust gas leaves too quickly, the AF mixture gets sucked out as well.

As the "pulse" of exhaust gas leaves the header and enter the piping, it continues to tarik the vacuum. This vacuum "sucks" the "pulse" exhaust gas behind it (from the cylinder that fired after the cylinder it originated from), so the exhaust gas behind it moves even faster, and it too sucks the exhaust gas behind it, and the cycle goes on. If your piping is small, the exhaust gas can maintain it's velocity easier, so you gain at low RPM. But as the RPM increases more and more exhaust "pulses" enter the piping at the same time, so it becomes "clogged", creating backpressure pushing the exhaust back inside the cylinder. If your piping is large, the exhaust "pulse" lose momentum sooner at lower RPM hence it loses it's "vacuum" effect. But at higher RPM it doesn't become clogged like small pipings, so there is no backpressure pushing the the exhaust back inside the cylinder and hence you gain high RPM performance.

If you can understand what I typed above, you'll see that backpressure is undesired. it is control of the exhaust flow you want, not backpressure. The whole process of managing vacuum and flow speed in the intake and exhaust system is called the scavenging process.

It also bears mentioned that if you wanna mod exhaust, then mod your intake to match. There is no point installing an extractor that allows your exhaust to escape quickly, but the intake system cannot cope.

Anyway, just bits and pieces I learnt from some sifus before I even owner the Gaga....my 2 kupang. Feel free to correct if I am wrong.
*
Thts why piping also important as well.

ckdenion
post May 23 2013, 09:48 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 23 2013, 09:11 PM)
4-2-1 > straight flow pipe muffler > S flow muffler

itu kedai dah lingkup.
*
ic...ok..itu kedai u pernah mentioned closed liao...now i rmbr sweat.gif

QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 23 2013, 09:30 PM)
ini gooding

user posted image

look at the welding and the way the pipe was bent and joined...  drool.gif

user posted image
*
hmm..similar to the new type FGK 4-1...but now macam no FGK news liao...
TSV12Kompressor
post May 23 2013, 09:49 PM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ May 23 2013, 09:48 PM)
ic...ok..itu kedai u pernah mentioned closed liao...now i rmbr sweat.gif

*
baru baru ini anda banyak slowpoke
ckdenion
post May 23 2013, 10:07 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 23 2013, 09:49 PM)
baru baru ini anda banyak slowpoke
*
wow...im so slowpoke... sweat.gif
diaBoliQu3
post May 23 2013, 10:07 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 23 2013, 07:51 PM)
tinting can void power window module. Because during removal of tint, a special type of chemical to remove the previous tint gum will be sprayed on the glass itself and the chemical will seep down to the door panel where all the power window, speaker (if has) and door lock actuator is.
*
So to avoid warranty void, do not tinting the window? Wow... How to makeup my car and make less warm... doh.gif
drfeelgood
post May 23 2013, 10:09 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 23 2013, 09:30 PM)
ini gooding

user posted image

look at the welding and the way the pipe was bent and joined...  drool.gif

user posted image
*
nice! i am so poisoned! got to look for a good exhaust mod shop in JB!
gogoman86
post May 23 2013, 10:28 PM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ May 22 2013, 08:44 AM)
so where's your gaga?

this thread topic should be aloha from singapore. or come work in singapore. can pay cheap petrol. no more FC worries.
*
I left my gaga at my gf house. She can use it to work.

Btw, last 2 week I drive my car to Singapore. After back to JB, I stop somewhere for lunch. When get back to my car, it can't start. Keep on crank, then lock the car, and unlock again, and still same, can't start at all.
Open the hood, knock here and there, remove FS and use stock fuse, still can't start. After few attempt, then only can start.
Check battery, engine oil, water, battery, and everything seem ok.

And today, get back from Singapore, my gf fetch me at JB Sentral and return home. After dinner, wanna shift my car as her brother want to drive his car out. Happening again, crank crank crank. Everything seem normal but still can't start the engine. WTF with my car. Again knock here and there. Still failed. This time lock the car again and unlock. Shift the gear to N and return to P. Crank the engine and started smoothly. Weird case. Sigh... =.=

I was suspecting my immobiliser problem, maybe it can't detect it and that's why I can't start my engine.
kenjilew
post May 23 2013, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(gogoman86 @ May 23 2013, 10:28 PM)
I left my gaga at my gf house. She can use it to work.

Btw, last 2 week I drive my car to Singapore. After back to JB, I stop somewhere for lunch. When get back to my car, it can't start. Keep on crank, then lock the car, and unlock again, and still same, can't start at all.
Open the hood, knock here and there, remove FS and use stock fuse, still can't start. After few attempt, then only can start.
Check battery, engine oil, water, battery, and everything seem ok.

And today, get back from Singapore, my gf fetch me at JB Sentral and return home. After dinner, wanna shift my car as her brother want to drive his car out. Happening again, crank crank crank. Everything seem normal but still can't start the engine. WTF with my car. Again knock here and there. Still failed. This time lock the car again and unlock. Shift the gear to N and return to P. Crank the engine and started smoothly. Weird case. Sigh... =.=

I was suspecting my immobiliser problem, maybe it can't detect it and that's why I can't start my engine.
*
your car miss us adi la... long time no see us adi... LOL
dares
post May 23 2013, 10:41 PM

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QUOTE(gogoman86 @ May 23 2013, 10:28 PM)
I left my gaga at my gf house. She can use it to work.

Btw, last 2 week I drive my car to Singapore. After back to JB, I stop somewhere for lunch. When get back to my car, it can't start. Keep on crank, then lock the car, and unlock again, and still same, can't start at all.
Open the hood, knock here and there, remove FS and use stock fuse, still can't start. After few attempt, then only can start.
Check battery, engine oil, water, battery, and everything seem ok.

And today, get back from Singapore, my gf fetch me at JB Sentral and return home. After dinner, wanna shift my car as her brother want to drive his car out. Happening again, crank crank crank. Everything seem normal but still can't start the engine. WTF with my car. Again knock here and there. Still failed. This time lock the car again and unlock. Shift the gear to N and return to P. Crank the engine and started smoothly. Weird case. Sigh... =.=

I was suspecting my immobiliser problem, maybe it can't detect it and that's why I can't start my engine.
*
try spare key.
billy520
post May 23 2013, 11:01 PM

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QUOTE(lhwj @ May 23 2013, 09:28 PM)
Tell me when you've found a good shop in Penang, cos I read all this I also got poisoned aldy thumbup.gif
*
i found a good shop long ago. its kiong lee at the inti bukit which now also opened a new branch at relau. what i have yet to find is cash to install it. ayam tempted by this which i showed earlier on:

http://www.mudah.my/Turbo+S+Exhaust+Manifo...6922.htm?last=1

the feature of this extractor:

Product Feature:
- Racing Spec With Extra Long 4-2-1 Dessign
- Made from high grade 304 stainless steel.
- Mandrel bent and CNC machined flange.
- TIG/Argon welded perfection.
- Easy to install.
- Plug & Play.
- Improve Performance And Fuel Consumption

the BOLD is where i am concern about...

its at the place i installed my LCP. i called them and they said its rm650. extractor alone. and pasang elsewhere doh.gif i plan to visit kiong lee in july or august after i gathered some cash. kiong lee r the experts...they can give proper advice on which type to suit our gaga...

***edit:AAAHHHHHH!!! now kiong lee carries Turbo S too!!! gonna drop by next week la! tempting!!!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=598...elevant_count=1

This post has been edited by billy520: May 23 2013, 11:08 PM
davidke20
post May 23 2013, 11:07 PM

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QUOTE(Celest-Lee @ May 23 2013, 09:30 PM)
i duno thats why i ask. here is d pic. is it this kind of paper will do?

user posted image
*
Gurl, that 1 you show is the form you need to fill up, so the bank can print out a cheque for you. And the cheque the bank issued is call bankdraft, usually they charge RM2.50/transaction. Meaning to say, if you do not have a cheque book, but you need bank assistance to issue a cheque on your behalf so you no need to bring bunch of cash to see your SA at the car dealer, now you get your bank to wtihdraw your money to the bank own account, and the bank issue a cheque for your car dealer. Something like this
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


QUOTE(gogoman86 @ May 23 2013, 10:28 PM)
I left my gaga at my gf house. She can use it to work.

Btw, last 2 week I drive my car to Singapore. After back to JB, I stop somewhere for lunch. When get back to my car, it can't start. Keep on crank, then lock the car, and unlock again, and still same, can't start at all.
Open the hood, knock here and there, remove FS and use stock fuse, still can't start. After few attempt, then only can start.
Check battery, engine oil, water, battery, and everything seem ok.

And today, get back from Singapore, my gf fetch me at JB Sentral and return home. After dinner, wanna shift my car as her brother want to drive his car out. Happening again, crank crank crank. Everything seem normal but still can't start the engine. WTF with my car. Again knock here and there. Still failed. This time lock the car again and unlock. Shift the gear to N and return to P. Crank the engine and started smoothly. Weird case. Sigh... =.=

I was suspecting my immobiliser problem, maybe it can't detect it and that's why I can't start my engine.
*
Just keep cranking until it starts. Car tend to rest too long will have jammed nozzle. I mean DO NOT let loose of the key until engine hidup. I know usually you guys like to crank 4 cycle then release the key. Wuekekeke not on then recrank again wuekekeke not on then recrank again wuekekeke.
Maxwell6635
post May 23 2013, 11:58 PM

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tomorrow got TT?XD biggrin.gif

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