i suggest you read this review first.

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/vi...php?f=8&t=70862

after u've read it, tell me what you think, and i'll add my experience with polar and garmin

how about this ?? u can brag all day long to us here...i prefer watch type coz i'm triathlon freak...so i can used the watch for swimming and running other than cycling...

This post has been edited by SYAMiLLiON: Apr 22 2013, 09:52 PM

Just had to abort my ride, my maiden puncture! Nothing bad, just walk back to my car and called it a night.

My sigma 2209 mhr ultimeter is a piece of crap. Perhaps using a GPS based altimeter (those Garmin can even show the route elevation profile) is much more accurate.

But, my sigma looks more sleek and neat, like those cateyes small2 computer on the stem, compare to others here who the majority have the big garmin sticking out their handlebar. The thing about people here is that they have too much money to spend on a gps computer only to ride in a closed circular cycling path which to me is pointless.

I stop my intention of getting the 810, but definitely will buy it once i'm back in KL for good which is rather useful as we ride on the open road, exploring new territory

At this juncture, Miao Kor, I am looking at the basic, and until I have tried it, I can't say where I will go from there.
The Cyclocom should give me enough info for my workout, in particularly HRM,
I will be looking at the HR Zones with alert. The rest of the features, speed, altitude and cadence will be fine. I am not a gadget freak so keeping it simple is not a bad idea.
I hope I have given you enough info on my expectation to allows you to leave me some pointers. Thank you.

personally, what i want to see on the display are; speed, distance, clock, heart rate. that's all. i don't need the extra features of garmin's (that's what i have now). i had a polar CS200 before, but the downside of it is the speed sensor unit is sealed. if the battery dies, u need to buy a complete sensor replacement. not cheap i tell u. they claim it can last 3500hrs of riding. but mine only lasted much much much less than that. then i bought garmin. the only thing i wanted was, reliability. just a few months of use, i had a problem with the garmin heart rate sensor. to me, died on me after only a few months, was just plain crap. some friends i knew had the same problem with garmin sensors. and they don't replace the sensor unit one-to-one. they take it from you first, and check, and took some time before they replace it for u. unlike polar warranty, i got mine replaced one-to-one right there right then, no question asked. garmin aftersale service really stinks.

so if what u want is the same as me, which is reliability, i will have to say, just go with the affordable ones and can give u the basic information. if my garmin dies again, i will just chuck it in the trashbin. my next option will be:

1) cateye strada digital wireless with heart rate monitor http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/CC-RD420DW/
OR
2) normal cateye cyclocomputer AND polar wristwatch type HRM

I think i am going option (2). Which polar wristwatch series then?

Oh no..still couldnt find suitable seatpost. I guess if i go for the looks that i want i will not shave much weight but then the ride will be more comfy because of the carbon materials.

Will it be ok to use carbon seat post with an alu bike?

it's like asking if it is ok to use alu post on carbon frame? why not???

carbon cockpit doesn't save much weight because they can't cut down on material due to safety reasons...and carbon posts usually don't come built with any form of compliancy at all... they are as stiff as they can be...

A gram reduced here and there can accumulates to a KG if you are serious about it
500-600grams reduction is already half a kilo..and that's big. I can't have the ultimate weight saving bike as I am running on Force groupset not the lightest Red.

I read that a carbon cockpit absorbs and provide more comfort on the road (irony that I chose an alu frame now) Safety wise I always have the feeling that carbon handelbar MAY break anytime when I am descending at 70kmh...lol..freak me out everytime just to think about it!

Now gatal2 to have another pair of wheelset..404 fc comes into mind but the need to change the brakepad and adjustment on the brakes seems to put me off. What else is there that is hassle free but would be a significant upgrade over FR0?

of course reducing a bit here and there is going to accumulate up... that is basic maths... but, so does the money being spent... to reduce a kilo of a 10KG bike... easy peasy... but things starts to escalate once it reaches sub 8KG... reducing a kilo from there is going to be EPIC ENORMOUS AMOUNTS OF MONEY....i'd rather have a fat wallet and a fat bike than both thin ones...

Carbon construction on bars and posts as far as i understand is very straight forward... they don't lay different carbon material to change it's characteristics.... primarily because you can't suffer a broken bar while you might be able to risk a broken frame.. a bar that breaks mid ride is going to mean the rider hitting the deck like a sack of potatoes...

it's not like a frame where they might lay UHM carbon plies in certain parts and HM carbon plies or sometimes a sandwich of both in certain parts to make one stiff and one flex a little...even a pina 65hm1k does not mean the whole bike is made out of 65 ton per square centimeter high modules 1k weave plies... it just means majority of it is and some parts are made with lower modulus plies to make it dampen shocks and increase chance of fractures in the carbon plies...but, i'll give it to you that it is less buzzy on the carbon bars though... that is most likely possible...

furthermore, the carbon stuff nowadays are quite safe as long as you are not abusing it and only clamping down bolts with torque wrenches within manufacturer specs... only a big hit to the bar can cause seen or unseen fractures or cracks that might cause breakages when it is exercised during rides... i would say it is quite safe if you really take care of it like not letting the bike fall over and hit the group or knock it against things...i am a natural klutz which is why i stay away from it...

the only wheel that is capable of doing what you want would be the mavic cosmic slr and mavic rsys slr... both has the exalith aluminum rims and the rsys is almost as light as the 303FC tubulars and both are clinchers... the tub versions don't offer much weight savings.. pricey though...still has to adjust pads if you intend to swap wheel...

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 23 2013, 09:34 AM

Pls proceed to V6.

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=2784710

thread is closed.

anything continue in V6.

btw, do your missed me or not? im back to cycling!