Wah so jealous oh u guys can raise such healthy tortoises. I raise 1 oso headache liao. Provide this provide that oso not. Haiz...

Future yniphora hatchling....can booking ah?

Keep it simple, and easy. Only when its hatchling need to be extra care. Otherwise...they are just your lawn mover.

Yniphora looks pretty. I wonder how much.

Was keeping it easy. Maybe too paranoid till now he sick jor. Haiz... Poor thing.

Lol waiting list is more than 70 pc If you order now will be 2023 or 2024 before I pm you , unless I release more per season( which I do not intend to do )

Cheers

I am releasing them cheaper than a super grade radiated tortoise or an albino leopard tortoise or albino sulcata or maybe a Galapagos tortoise !

But I did sell a few to a couple of good friends at way below what I usually sell .

Cheers

wah then from today on im ur best friend. good friend please stand aside. hahaha!

I will fly straight to EM, once it pops out from the hatchling egg.

how u bring back to west malaysia? can naik flight?

Malaysia Boleh..

Dear all LYN Sifu,

I recently bought a Star (named Squirtle). It is my first pet tortoise and it is a hatchling~Bought it before I realised it's quite sensitive especially at this size. Any advice on my enclosure setup? I planted weed and added a cement basking platform. I soaked it every 2 days for couple of minutes. Cheers.

Dear LYN Sifu,I got a question actually...For the lighting of the enclosure,which type of bulb is most cost-result-efficient?I'm thinking of modifying the headlamp of the car to put it as the light source~does that bulb emit uvb?Please advice,thank you.

This post has been edited by tattvooi: Nov 3 2016, 05:02 AM

really? What's the procedure? What requirement? teach me please... need quarantine or anything?

Hmmm many start to raise from a hatchling... Good luck! Its tough but fun. Have a read. I copied from a link, hope it helps.

Housing:

Indoors
I use a 50 gallon Rubbermaid tub filled with 6 inches of peat moss and two inches of cypress mulch on top. I provide a plastic shoe box with the lid on top and a hole cut out of the top of one of the sides big enough for the tortoise to get in and out easily. The hide box is filled with peat moss and a thin layer of sphagnum moss is placed on the top. It is buried in the substrate so that the bottom of the opening is level with the top layer of the substrate in the tub. The hide is covered with two inches of sphagnum moss and is placed below a Mercury Vapor Bulb about 12 inches. I plant tortoise grazing seed and timothy hay in there every two weeks so that there is always a fresh supply of growing food in their enclosure. I use plexiglass to cover the top of the entire enclosure to maintain heat and humidity. I cut holes in the plexiglass to accommodate the MVB fixture and the CHE fixture.

Outdoors
Weather permitting, I keep my tortoises outdoors as often as possible. I live in the desert southwest where temperatures in the summer can get well over 110F. I keep all of my tortoises, even new hatchlings, outdoors 24/7 during the summer. The key to keeping young tortoises outside in extreme hot weather is to provide a lot of shade and areas where the sun does not shine directly and is easily accessible so they do not risk overheating. It’s also important that the areas that get the hottest part of the sun be open and clear of any rocks, large clumps of grass, or obstacles of any type. This will decrease the risk that the tortoise will flip itself on its back and get caught in the heat. Shaded areas in my hatchling pens will not get above 90 degrees ground temperature when the ambient temperature is near 110F. It is also important in my opinion to provide a hide box in the shade that also acts as a source of elevated humidity. When trying to determine if it is warm enough to put the tortoise outside I use a 75F threshold. If the shaded areas are above 75F, then I feel comfortable placing them outside. The sunny areas will obviously be warmer than the shaded areas, so when the ambient temperatures is 75F, they will have areas in their enclosure that will allow them to elevate their body temperatures to appropriate levels.

Heat:
Understanding and knowing how to control the temperatures in your tortoise enclosure is a critical aspect in tortoise husbandry. Tortoises, like all reptiles, are cold blooded and depend on environmental elements to meet their heating requirements in order to digest its food and maintain overall good health. For tortoises less than 4 inches I try to maintain temperatures in their enclosures between 75F at the lowest, and 105F at the hottest except when they are outdoors, as mentioned above. When they are indoors I provide a basking spot directly beneath a Mercury Vapor bulb and on top of the humid hide, which is the 105F zone. At night the heat is maintained using a 100 watt ceramic heat emitter from Zoomed. The temperatures in the entire enclosure are never below 80F. A tortoise instinctively knows what temperatures its body requires, so by offering a variety of temperatures in your enclosure, the tortoise will be able to move to different areas in the enclosure to regulate its body temperature to desired levels.


Humidity:
For leopard tortoises less than 4 inches carapace length, I maintain an average level of humidity of about 50% throughout the enclosure. This is done by soaking the soil in the enclosure, using a spray bottle, and using a small humidifier when necessary. The humidity inside the hide box is around 80 - 90%. When maintaining high levels of humidity, it is important to monitor the ambient temperatures to make sure they do not get to dangerous levels. As mentioned, the hide boxes I use are located right beneath the mercury vapor bulb which creates temperatures inside the hide at about 85F.

Feeding:

I feed tortoises less than 4 inches long, two times a day; once in the morning and once in the evening. In the morning they will get any one of the following, or a random combination of:
Fresh grass, hibiscus leaves and flowers, dandelions, succulents, Romaine lettuce, spring mix, kale, carrots, mustard greens, or escarole.
I offer Mazuri every evening. Every other day I sprinkled their morning meal with calcium supplement. I alternate calcium D3 and calcium without D3 each time I supplement if they are being kept solely indoors. If they are getting outdoors more than three times during the week I will only use calcium without D3.

Hydration:
Hydration is also a very important aspect in tortoise husbandry. Something I often hear or read from people who are new to the hobby is the belief that tortoises will receive all of their hydration requirements from the food that they eat. I do not agree at all with this way of thinking, as depriving a tortoise of water or means to hydrate itself can become deadly. Bladder stones and mineral buildups are common in dehydrated tortoises. A tortoise that is well hydrated will be more easily able to expel the un-needed minerals before they accumulate to harmful levels. Damaged kidneys and internal organs are also a threat to dehydrated tortoises. I soak my young tortoises every day for approximately 5 to 10 minutes in large containers of water. The water is filled so that it is about halfway up the tortoises carapace. In addition to daily soaks, they also have shallow dishes of water that they can easily walk in and walk out of.

Lighting:
When they are not able to get outdoors, I use a 100W Powersun Mercury Vapor bulb as the only source of lighting in the enclosure. Any type of UVB emitting bulb will be sufficient in my opinion as long as it is not a coil type bulb which have been known to cause blindness and other health issues in reptiles.

Health:
Tortoises are susceptible to a wide variety of ailments and disease. Tortoises under 4 inches, especially less than 1 year old, seem to be more easily susceptible to disease than adult tortoises. Most ailments can be prevented by adequate husbandry or by simply raising the temperature in the tortoises enclosure, but things do happen. Some tortoises simply have weaker immune systems than others. It is not my intent to list different diseases and symptoms, but there are enough resources readily available for your research. If you follow my guidelines above, health issues may be kept to a minimum. One thing I would recommend prior to purchasing a tortoise is finding a local vet that has experience with tortoises.

Wattage does not matter. It depends what height you put the bulb above from the basking area. 35W or 100W also can. Example, 35W you will need to place closer, and 100W can be placed higher.

I think he means uvb not heat la. not sure if car lamp emits that. Since we live in M'sia I think there are plenty of UVB from the sun . Unless you don't have time to put the tortoise outdoor la... then must rely on UVB lamp lo. Btw @tygoh the enclosure u copy paste that are I saw before. It's a bit unrealistic. That' y I ask here.The person says he lives in desert area but the temperature is 110 F . My backyard can easily reach 113°F +. Actually what is the best temperature for baby tortoises? some says 24°C -31°C while some says higher. I'm just confused

Tropical weather will be just perfect....

@tattvooi i used to have the same questions as you. when i buy my tortoise, i didn't prepare to set up the habitat for it. i tot it would be an easy job since its tortoise. 'mind set - long living animal' .But i was wrong. i asked other forum and they gave me habitat set ups that im not ready to build. such as these.



now im looking forward a cheap and reliable set up for housing my sick tortoise. btw, @tattvooi, where did u bought ur tortoise? did u choose them urself or the seller choose for u? i read from other forum, its better if u meet up the breeder and then choose those which is healthy. eg, bright eye, no soft shell, not gasping for air, not housed with other species etc. its hard to find breeder here. its only available at pet shop. even @samperth is ignoring me for good. hahaha. maybe me banyak macam. @tygoh, im still waititng for ur answer how to bring tortoise naik flight. cz if possible, maybe next time i got go kl i can bring my tort to see DR. or if my tort can't make it before i do, then maybe i can get a new one and choose properly from a breeder.

another thing, are tortoise active animals? like, the wander around, curious, walk here and there looking for food or simply sleeps day and night? somehow i see from videos, they are actively walking. but mine sleeps from day to night and only wakes up to eat and soak. not sure bcz still young or sick. any experienced sifus here can explain explain?

Did I ?? I did reply your PM , and here ? I don't frequent here as often as I use to ( time constraint maybe )

Btw end of the year is bad for hatchlings , but good egg hunting season for some sp of tortoise ( tropical in particular )
Footed ( red , yellow , cherry head ) , Manouria ( brown , black , impressa ) indotestudo ( forstenii , elongate , Tra)
Some hingeback and maybe spider and Burmese star .... lol