Since there are RT gurus here, mind i ask do you notice the white lines circulating each of their scutes. What does that mean.? I do not have a picture here, but will snap one when i get home.

Samperth sifu still remember me. Really torts sensei ^^

In addition to it, the white lines are not even height around the scutes. Is that normal for growth that will be even gradually.?

Sorry hijack your post, deviating the questions. From the pictures of the scutes, are these considered pyramid as some forumers here mentioned in the past.

Sulcata.?

Yiphora?

Looks like growth lines.

How big is your hatchling.? They do eat any grass, but in Malaysia all sorts are edible (cow, bermuda, pearl...etc). Opuntia pads are not meant for regular food. It is succulents, may be twice a week is sufficient. You may consider Mazuri too.

Back to your question, inactive can be many reasons. Most case hatchlings inactive are due to the shop/breeder you purchase from does not house them in proper way. Example mix other type together in one enclosure. This is a No-No. Potentially they can cross affect different parasites that each type tortoise carry and naturally each has different immune system to fight against. All you can do is, to ensure soak it twice a day with warm water for about 15-20mins.

Given a choice, do not buy from oversea. Domestically is ok, some do provide guarantee upon you receive them. Try join the facebook group "Tortoises Group of Malaysia", you get the chance to meet M'sian breeder and seller.

Day or noon time, best to let him wander around outside enclosure if you have. Preferably on a grassland with a shelter. I do know there are many reptiles veterinarian at peninsular side. It is normal hatchling does not possess habit of grass grazing till they grow to about size >4". Perhaps try prepare a meal, with chopped grass, leaves, vegetables. Hatchling will munch them like a buffet meal.

By the way #SAMPERTH live in borneo, not sure which part. You can try contact him. He seems pretty active here last time, and experience in breeding some species successfully.

Hehe you pay what you get.

Same as u. Leopard, already 5yrs.

Haha...most likely spot on.

Any hatchlings yet from your yniphora?

Here ya goes..

Future yniphora hatchling....can booking ah?

Keep it simple, and easy. Only when its hatchling need to be extra care. Otherwise...they are just your lawn mover.

I will fly straight to EM, once it pops out from the hatchling egg.

Malaysia Boleh..

Hmmm many start to raise from a hatchling... Good luck! Its tough but fun. Have a read. I copied from a link, hope it helps.

Housing:

Indoors
I use a 50 gallon Rubbermaid tub filled with 6 inches of peat moss and two inches of cypress mulch on top. I provide a plastic shoe box with the lid on top and a hole cut out of the top of one of the sides big enough for the tortoise to get in and out easily. The hide box is filled with peat moss and a thin layer of sphagnum moss is placed on the top. It is buried in the substrate so that the bottom of the opening is level with the top layer of the substrate in the tub. The hide is covered with two inches of sphagnum moss and is placed below a Mercury Vapor Bulb about 12 inches. I plant tortoise grazing seed and timothy hay in there every two weeks so that there is always a fresh supply of growing food in their enclosure. I use plexiglass to cover the top of the entire enclosure to maintain heat and humidity. I cut holes in the plexiglass to accommodate the MVB fixture and the CHE fixture.

Outdoors
Weather permitting, I keep my tortoises outdoors as often as possible. I live in the desert southwest where temperatures in the summer can get well over 110F. I keep all of my tortoises, even new hatchlings, outdoors 24/7 during the summer. The key to keeping young tortoises outside in extreme hot weather is to provide a lot of shade and areas where the sun does not shine directly and is easily accessible so they do not risk overheating. It’s also important that the areas that get the hottest part of the sun be open and clear of any rocks, large clumps of grass, or obstacles of any type. This will decrease the risk that the tortoise will flip itself on its back and get caught in the heat. Shaded areas in my hatchling pens will not get above 90 degrees ground temperature when the ambient temperature is near 110F. It is also important in my opinion to provide a hide box in the shade that also acts as a source of elevated humidity. When trying to determine if it is warm enough to put the tortoise outside I use a 75F threshold. If the shaded areas are above 75F, then I feel comfortable placing them outside. The sunny areas will obviously be warmer than the shaded areas, so when the ambient temperatures is 75F, they will have areas in their enclosure that will allow them to elevate their body temperatures to appropriate levels.

Heat:
Understanding and knowing how to control the temperatures in your tortoise enclosure is a critical aspect in tortoise husbandry. Tortoises, like all reptiles, are cold blooded and depend on environmental elements to meet their heating requirements in order to digest its food and maintain overall good health. For tortoises less than 4 inches I try to maintain temperatures in their enclosures between 75F at the lowest, and 105F at the hottest except when they are outdoors, as mentioned above. When they are indoors I provide a basking spot directly beneath a Mercury Vapor bulb and on top of the humid hide, which is the 105F zone. At night the heat is maintained using a 100 watt ceramic heat emitter from Zoomed. The temperatures in the entire enclosure are never below 80F. A tortoise instinctively knows what temperatures its body requires, so by offering a variety of temperatures in your enclosure, the tortoise will be able to move to different areas in the enclosure to regulate its body temperature to desired levels.


Humidity:
For leopard tortoises less than 4 inches carapace length, I maintain an average level of humidity of about 50% throughout the enclosure. This is done by soaking the soil in the enclosure, using a spray bottle, and using a small humidifier when necessary. The humidity inside the hide box is around 80 - 90%. When maintaining high levels of humidity, it is important to monitor the ambient temperatures to make sure they do not get to dangerous levels. As mentioned, the hide boxes I use are located right beneath the mercury vapor bulb which creates temperatures inside the hide at about 85F.

Feeding:

I feed tortoises less than 4 inches long, two times a day; once in the morning and once in the evening. In the morning they will get any one of the following, or a random combination of:
Fresh grass, hibiscus leaves and flowers, dandelions, succulents, Romaine lettuce, spring mix, kale, carrots, mustard greens, or escarole.
I offer Mazuri every evening. Every other day I sprinkled their morning meal with calcium supplement. I alternate calcium D3 and calcium without D3 each time I supplement if they are being kept solely indoors. If they are getting outdoors more than three times during the week I will only use calcium without D3.

Hydration:
Hydration is also a very important aspect in tortoise husbandry. Something I often hear or read from people who are new to the hobby is the belief that tortoises will receive all of their hydration requirements from the food that they eat. I do not agree at all with this way of thinking, as depriving a tortoise of water or means to hydrate itself can become deadly. Bladder stones and mineral buildups are common in dehydrated tortoises. A tortoise that is well hydrated will be more easily able to expel the un-needed minerals before they accumulate to harmful levels. Damaged kidneys and internal organs are also a threat to dehydrated tortoises. I soak my young tortoises every day for approximately 5 to 10 minutes in large containers of water. The water is filled so that it is about halfway up the tortoises carapace. In addition to daily soaks, they also have shallow dishes of water that they can easily walk in and walk out of.

Lighting:
When they are not able to get outdoors, I use a 100W Powersun Mercury Vapor bulb as the only source of lighting in the enclosure. Any type of UVB emitting bulb will be sufficient in my opinion as long as it is not a coil type bulb which have been known to cause blindness and other health issues in reptiles.

Health:
Tortoises are susceptible to a wide variety of ailments and disease. Tortoises under 4 inches, especially less than 1 year old, seem to be more easily susceptible to disease than adult tortoises. Most ailments can be prevented by adequate husbandry or by simply raising the temperature in the tortoises enclosure, but things do happen. Some tortoises simply have weaker immune systems than others. It is not my intent to list different diseases and symptoms, but there are enough resources readily available for your research. If you follow my guidelines above, health issues may be kept to a minimum. One thing I would recommend prior to purchasing a tortoise is finding a local vet that has experience with tortoises.