I see that many of you have a wrong impression about ROOter firmwares (namely Redback, BlackWidow and Huntsman) although Dairyman and Waroonga Farm have mentioned before. Note that it's a customized version of OpenWRT which optimize for 3G/4G usage. The only configuration you need to worry about for making 3G/4G connection is at the Modem tab (APN name, Username, Password, SIM PIN, Keep Connection Alive, DNS servers). You don't need to mess with the configurations in the Network tab 'cause whatever you do over there will be overwritten by a scheduled task.

And the Network Status at the Modem tab it's just informational, it doesn't affect your connection at all.

I hope we don't get confused with the original OpenWRT releases. To understand better about ROOter firmwares, please read information on this page - http://www.rfactory.org/OpenWRT/

why is there still no support for MF680 on blackwidow rooter? requested for so long still not granted

yer, then why mine so many problems one 

what is this?

i think i will live with the use of barrier breaker for now, dont need to make anymore headaches, what is smooth is the best, sabah is always behind technologies anyways, always get put at last in queues

With the ROOter software and Modem Gui you can select mode frequency bands.



Cheers

John k

PS These Modem Gui features will be included in the ROOter software in due course.

Read the ROOter WIKI for further details

Noob ques, is there any version of openwrt that could make my mr3420 support Yes GO dongle? if not, is mr3020 my only option? But I need at least 4 LAN ports..sigh..

Huntsman 2013-05-12 New Luci GUI (SVN package update). Fixed the GB problem with Bandwidth Monitoring so the values are now correct. Support for the WDR4900, MR11U and MR3040V2 have been added. And the big one – display and selection of the modem's Cellular Mode so you can change to 2G, 3G or 4G, depending on the modem. This needs testing for all 4G modems just to make sure that the drop-down selection box is correct for that modem. If a modem doesn't support a particular mode then it won't appear. Also, newer Huawei modems need testing. Huawei uses two different AT Commands to display and select Cellular Mode, one for older modems and one for newer modems. I have tested the older version and it works. The newer version is untested but should work.

.... is released for your viewing pleasure.

http://www.rfactory.org/OpenWRT/index.html#downloads

Thanks Digilife.

Looks like the ZTE MF680 is not covered for Mode.

You can assist by providing the following information requested by Dairyman to fault find:

Hi Doomguard (and everyone else),

There was a wee html coding error in the latest version for this tab. It displayed in Widows Firefox ok.

Please visit Dairyman's website and download 2013-05-12b.

A fix for later model Huawei (e.g. E398 etc) modems which don't display the mode selection, will arrive shortly.

That will be fixed in the next release
Hopefully 12b will fix the MF680 problem ...

Cheers

Thanks for testing 

I wonder if the speed increases when you connect the modem to the router via a good quality USB extension cable, rather than plug the modem directly into the router?

If you have one with a ferrite bead, all the better.

Some modems appear to create RF noise, that affect the modem performance.

These are the collective recommendations from the ROOter teams field testing:

A number of testers have experienced problems (disconnection etc) with 4G modems (320U, E3276, MF821, E392 etc) in low signal strength areas or other situations. The most likely reason is insufficient USB router power when the modem is operating at the fast ROOter speeds. Fast USB modems can draw in excess of 750mA @ 5 volt. These USB modems may require a Y – cable, to provide additional USB power. You can also use a powered hub or a higher power ROOter AC plug pack if you have one available. There is also evidence that a USB cable with ferrite bead may also assist in a suspect interference issue. Turning off wifi and using a LAN only connection is often sufficient to achieve stable modem operation. This is due to a reduction in ROOter power consumption leaving more power for the USB modem.

    If you set a modem to a particular Mode e.g. 2G, 3G, 4G, Auto; the mode is set in the modem and is permanent until changed ie you can shift the modem between devices and the mode configuration remains. This is also true for the modems connection manager software. The permanent setting of Mode can trip you up at times; so beware!

    The MR3040 travel router appears to have limited battery power when used with the newer power hungry USB modems. This is widely reported on the web. It will probably require a permanent AC power connection to work successfully.

    The 703N (and it's stable mates) will likely benefit from a larger AC power pack when used with power hungry USB modems. The standard power pack specification is 5V @ 1A or 5 watts. The 703n internal current regulator limits @ 1.25A, or a total ROOter power availability of 6.25 watts. A 5v @ 1.5A (or 2A) AC power pack, will provide more power for the modem; before internal current limiting kicks in.

Top Tip

For my money the single best thing you can do to improve performance and reliability of a Router + USB Modem set-up, is to use a quality USB extension cable between the router and modem, preferably one with a ferrite bead in line.

I know that Dovado and Netgear (and I'm sure others ... but certainly not TP-Link) provide a USB extension cable and stand, to enable locating the modem away from the router.

Intriguingly, this old slow 160E benefited from a USB cable on a TP-LINK in a weak signal area.

So it's not just the new 4G high power modems that have issues ...

PS The problem, what ever it is (interference of some sort no doubt), seems to be much less apparent when modems are directly connected to USB ports in a laptop.

This is the sort of thing:



or buy a cable with one inserted


The MR3420's come with a 12v 1A supply.

I intend to run a full range of USB power tests with a number of routers to determine if we can get a bit more power to the router's USB port.

The TP-LINKS appear to have good internal regulators and current limiting built in (e.g you can short out the USB connector), so I don't believe the larger power supply will cause any problems and may provide more power to the USB port.

As an example, the TP-Link 703n has an internal current limit of 1.25A @ 5v; but the AC plug pack is only 1A, so it will benefit from say a 1.5A @ 5v plug pack.

Suck it and see ....

why my MF680 cant detect?!!
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can use but the network info not working