if bought at those websites, does it come assembled or needed soldering ?

i don't have solder iron and last time i solder something is when studying.

Yup, assembly and soldering are required, just follow the assembly as shown on youtube video below made by other user:

Video:


This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Mar 12 2017, 10:28 PM

Another day in da office.

My SilverWhoop v2

Hello guys,

Just bought Hubsan X4 H502s (still on the way). Has anybody own it? Any comment ?

I am looking for one. Where did u buy the parts from?

This post has been edited by Euphonel: Mar 14 2017, 12:52 AM

What situation that 2 blade props will break in air.
I think this is second time the 1 of the blade break around the hub connect section.

And quad crash another break on landing skid....w*f I mean...

I think there no way other to change CF props?

that is a mystery indeed. i don't see any reason for it. unless it's hitting something at high speed, like a big@ss bug.

Yep. First time the accident I talking with my friend. The quad hold with Dji Naza gps. And sudden one arm losing power. And drop


Second time I fly. I not talking and LOS attitude mode.
It same problem, one prop losing blade around the hub section.
At first I believe the motor somehow stalled.
But no way a hovering quad stalled.

Now I got a lot part for 3s 1045prop....If me switch then wasted...don know how to do.

Always inspect for white stress marks on ur props. Sometimes when ur props hit something, they will fly ok at first... but the damage will show in the form of stress marks. A few flights later the stressed plastic suddenly gives way.

Some plastics are more brittle than others and are more prone to suddenly giving way when damaged.. esp the larger props that are physically subject to greater stresses during flight.

Yes. Two similar situation got a white mark on hub.
Can be notice the cracked or breaking blade get throwing away by big force from 10k+ rpm motor.

But the strange is, my blade is gemfan carbon nylon. Not el-cheapo plastic one. And this broken props only changed few flight ago(2-4 flight)


So mean to, if me not changing to CF. There will no solution to fix?

This post has been edited by josh5671: Mar 15 2017, 09:50 AM

I have huge library of props for many models i collected for decades, Gemfan intentionally build fragile at root so that it won't damage the motor during impact aka "crumple zone" effect, they consume power during RPM but trade-in for their speed. If you want tough prop at root get "APC" style prop popularly used by early days heavy duty multirotor or used by fast funjet plane like GRAUPNER prop or Master Airscrew despite was build for planes. Carbon prop is just a marketing fad, build to lighten the load during spin and it splintered if it broken upon impact which makes it worse than plastic ones. Carbon nylon (sometimes aka composite) is build solid/rigid for slow high load flying but does not resist break point during yield. The best overall prop for multirotor interms of durability and lifespan is GWS type both DD (Direct drive) = speed and SF (Slow Fly) = heavy load.

This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Mar 15 2017, 10:27 AM

I see. They insist make it break when hit something.
But pretty strange it break when when hover.(which I sure)
And my quad landed with front skid, so the skid break the quad up side down.

Lucky I didt mount my cam in front
I don know to do now....

Having bashed my CC3D drone into trees & walls a number of times (newbie style), I have come to treat props as consumables.

These things will break eventually coz you're bound to hit something. Sometimes the drone flips. Sometimes the drone mows the grass. Sometimes it trims the trees & hedges. All these things will damage the props to varying degrees... some just a bit, some a bit more... but eventually they will all add up and cause the prop to break.

So personally... I don't buy fancy expensive props. They're gonna break too eventually so what the hell.

My fave are the Kingkong 6045 and Kingkong Triblade 5045.

Durable enough to withstand my hamfisted flying. And when they about to break, they're cheap as hell to replace.

In your case... better ask the sifus whether got cheap props for DJI drones or not.

So far did rush the quad into wall or tree yet.

I got a lot props same model. But the break props eventually changed few flight before.
And I understand props is consumables, that's why I get a lot. More then 20 sets even the 450 not done build yet.

But random break like this actually happen second time...

SNAFU eh... hmm if you're dead sure the props in question were totally undamaged and yet they simply and inexplicably broke up during hovering, then maybe it's a quality issue.

At any rate, it could be a signal for u to avoid buying this brand of props.

If you ask me though, breakages are more likely with larger props and those made of brittle material.

Everyone knows carbon fibre doesn't give and flex as well as cheaper thick plastic... and when they hv had enough, they simply shatter.

Mostly sure.
Of course I am not blaming gemfan for the props break. Sometime manufacturers will accidentally produce few bad item. Or maybe my problem?

That's why my 450 Haven equip cam and gimbal.
It just random failure cause crash

You can find my parts list in this RCG blog page at https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2780269. My parts comes from Banggood, Gearbest and Tmart.

Review for the Boldclash 6x15mm 18000 KV Coreless Motors at https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2848657 and Boldclash F-02 25mW AIO Camera VTX used are at https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2851317.

I got a H36 and thinking to attach a fpv to it, but too lazy to solder and dont have the skill to solder those small things. anyway, i might just buy makerfire, warlark 80 ( quite expensive ) or the real blade inductrix, any other rtf/bnf tiny whoop out there?

btw, i just ordered the Boldclash motors for my h36, lets see how this thing fly. also i cut the 4 blade props to just 2 blade.

I have the Makerfire MicroFPV DSM2 BNF (Review at https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2844878) and Eachine E010S DSM2 BNF (Review at https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2847429) too. Both are great out of the box without much tinkering. Warlark 80 I suggest you hold on first until they fix it with a better camera.

Original Inductrix is good but expensive unless you got tons to spare. Buy one Inductrix, you can get two that I mentioned.