compressor needs engine power to run, having it to blow the intake at the cost of engine power or less air cond, its just inefficient (and that's why no one does it, at least by standard car specs anyways lol)

my main concern is still myself killing the compressor with my brick foot. too rev happy and what not, if road empty, brain hardwired to go for it. (and thats why i only get 7-8 km/l, lol)
my compressor is maybe 10 months or 11 months, barely even 1 year, and it is dying already

if its not red for brake and orange for signal, its just stupid.

EDIT: Was getting price quotes for top overhaul...I was quoted labour charge only RM250 plus the price of parts needed to be replaced la...so wanna ask you all, is RM250 labour charge for top overhaul acceptable?

whoa..I just changed my compressor in August..hopefully it won't die so fast like yours...but then again I rarely rev above 3K rpm..normally cruise around 2.5K RPM @ 80 KM/H

This post has been edited by AzeL: Oct 13 2012, 10:31 AM

jialat ...one tank full ...average 430km...
wat about u guys ???

How many litres you talking about?...I'm doing about 10km per litre lol

Roughly there la same like mine^^

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Added on October 13, 2012, 10:48 amHmm.. so what is the recommended piping size if i dont plant for future mods jz minimal mods like K&N filter, Jasma camshaft, LCP only?

Does the power at 2-3k really improve compared top stock setting? From scale of 1-10 how much imporvement? haha
I just wan low end power improvement and pickup as i rarely rev more than 3k to save fuel

Btw, how much does it costs to replace the front windscreen? mine already has cracks. Should i go to SC to replace or normal garage? Jz wana have go to a trusted and reliable place. I heard u can just use some special liquid to heal cracks is it true>?


This post has been edited by Kel89: Oct 13 2012, 10:48 AM

phew...mine is mostly highway driving since i use the EDL highway to work and back ...

edl is?

Top overhaul labour charge RM250 reasonable?..of course this doesnt include the price of things needed to be replaced (valve seals, rings, gasket etc.)

Ahaha.. if modding air-con compressor to become supercharger is possible, we must go patent it and start business already

Stick with stock piping size in that case, it will help with low end torque. A better extractor will help further.

Power between 2-3k will not improve with highcam, in fact it will drop slightly. When I mentioned fine, actually I meant not so much difference noticed But above 3.5-4k rpm, easily 10-20% improvement.

But anyway, since you said you rarely rev higher than 3k, please stick to stock camshaft. No point wasting money to get poorer idle and slight performance dip in your normal driving range. Use that money on a Hotbits/Powerzone 4-2-1 extractor instead. With LCP/K&N filter, you will already feel the difference. For your driving style, you might consider a lightened and balanced flywheel as well.

whoah aes everywhere......duck lah!

Today I found my gear is difficult to engage after went through a “sui tam”(cantonese). May I ask is it got water enter into my gearbox? Last time after i change a new set of clutch in May 2012, the same situation happened then the workshop change gear oil for me then ok already. But now again?

And i took the car to the workshop just now and ask what's the problem. Then they told me they have to disassemble the gearbox and check only knows what happen. One of the guy said may be the clutch sub, another 1 said if the clutch skin / spring kena water and get rusty then may b have to change the clutch again. Immediately "Wat the xx" comes in my mind. Then i know i cannot repair my car at that workshop again since they owaz chopped me. So i need opinions from sifus here.

My questions are:
1) The water can go in so easy?
2) If the water goes in, will it cause problem for my gear engagement?
3) What can i do? Bring my car to maddriver/sinister workshop for check up?
4) Or wait a few days and see how?

Thank you in advanced.

1. not, especially older tech cars like yours should be able to go thru flooded areas without much problems, my friend driving 1980's saga off aircond, lights, etc anything electric and went thru flood water before as long as don't let go accelerator the exhaust won't let water into the engine should be fine.

2. if water can go in then gearbox leaking already because it is a closed system.

3. maddriver is not really a gearbox specialist but you can always goto him for advise. i dunno much about sinister.

4. no comment

Happened to me before, but not on iswara. It is possible some water got into the gearbox. In my case, after a change of gearoil no more problems. If anyone is telling u have to change clutch just for something like this, i'd be cautious and seek a second or third opinion. Alternatively you can change the gearoil first and see how it is. Shouldn't be too expensive.

Icic, so wat is the stock size of our own lmst piping? If increasing the size help increase torque or hp might as well do it right? If so what is the recomended size without causing any back pressure? What about changing the whole exhaust system to straight flow? gud enuf?

Hmm...what brand of lightened flywheel do u recommend? Where to get it huh?

OEM brake pad x 4 normally is how much?

I think it's around 1.5-1.6 inches diameter. Exhaust piping size has to follow what you want, it's not a one size fits all. Stock piping size is best for your requirements. Backpressure is important for your driving style, best to keep piping size stock. Reducing backpressure by means of larger piping or straight flow muffler is more suited to a high revving driver.

For flywheel, can search in Automotive Garage, got some sellers selling lightened 8" super touring flywheel with 1.6 clutch set. It's a good upgrade.

crap! mouse get into my engine n bite 2 of my brand new spark plug cable..... how aaaa.......sohai tikusss

well my labor charge for a complete overhaul is way less, but then again they could have just included it into the parts.

heres the thing: i think it is quite fair, if they dont simply chop you on parts of have bad surprises later on. tell them to quote you the part replacements first before they proceed. and if can, tell them to have a "maximum damage" quote so you can have a figure estimation.

as for the compressor, don't worry, your will prolly last a lot longer than mine. i just whack my car too much and red lines it a lot

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Added on October 13, 2012, 8:43 pmfor our car, replacing the entire windscreen is cheaper than mending cracks.

cost maybe 200-400 or less iinm. i replaced few times cuz unlucky with rocks flying to screen
(or at 1 time i cracked the screen myself trying to whack a mosquito in rage sigh)

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Added on October 13, 2012, 8:49 pm1) no, it it is you will get many other owner repairing their gear boxes day in day out considering malaysian weather
2) of course it will, rust and/or oil inhibitions will cause problems for gears to engage properly. thing is, the gear box is supposed to be a sealed environment. nothing is supposed to get in unlike engine (combustion, carbon, water if you somehow got water at the air intake etc)
3) if you dont have a trusted workshop, you can bring it to them, they are very reputable sifus around LYN and i am sure they can do your car justice
4) personally, if problems surface, best to get it rectified before it get worse. cars are very similar to humans. if things get worse and it may be incurable, then you will regret it. take cancer, some times early stage detection and treatment will allow the guy to live/fully cured, where as late detection = the guy dead. same as car parts, early rectification of the problem can let you do minor fix at minor price, where else if the entire gear box is jammed up/broken down, then you know that a gearbox can easily cost around/over 1k lol.

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Added on October 13, 2012, 8:55 pmiinm stock piping is around 1.3/1.4" not 100% sure.
increasing size typically lose power for the lower power band, as your exhaust velocity decreases.

and no you'll want to have some back pressure if you're aiming for lower power band increase. (which is where s-flow excels at)

PERSONALLY if you're doing all these for fuel saving, dont. you typically lose more than you gain no matter what. doing mods for fuel saving is just a bad objective/reason. people do these mods to drive faster, performance etc.

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Added on October 13, 2012, 8:56 pmrm70-100ish for a pair of front brakes
slightly less than that for a pair of rear drum brakes' brake shoe

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Added on October 13, 2012, 8:59 pmfind mouse to bbq lo. cable replace lo, not much can be done

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 13 2012, 08:59 PM

iswara a/b 1999 1.3S user reporting in. Been using since 2003, and had moderate periodic clean ups and maintenance. Today just went to change a pair of rear tires to new Falcon 14' i think (standard size), petrol filter (rm12),a pair of rear drums break shoes (rm65), tubeless and alignment (rm5x2)+(rm20)

edit: KIV list
-flushing of break oils, as nw its kopi-o kao
-change gear oil box
-change timing belt
-change spark cable maybe.

how much it wil cost me roughly for my kiv list for now? and also any recommended mech ard PG?




This post has been edited by j-insigh: Oct 13 2012, 09:47 PM

welcome bro..hehe..


afaik, d stock piping OD is 1.5"; inside diameter is 1.4x" . m using 1.6" wit straight flow, if intend go larger piping, need use sflow muffler as straight flow will hav decrease more exhaust velocity thus less power at low end..