The wire sometimes a bit eyesore.. Lolz.. I feel if can hide it, it will look better...

IINM, need to drill hole and the wire will be under the dashboard

His car different lar. Without vacuum also can do 500+. Next round wanna go midnight run with us or not. Teach you how to drive FAST whilst save petrol

Hang punya pakei nie


OBD2 doesn't cover vacuum reading Only mass air flow in CFM even if you can translate the raw code from our Plotong ECU. It's not that the OBD2 not working with our ECU, the problem is there is no developer willing to spend time to decode all the raw data read from the ECU(short of software support). Plug in OBD2 reader, you'll get all sort of 809dfs723509asdfa8we-0fwqe0pfpo23ur0-239u-9djwefjw-93wj and have no idea wtf is it.

Not so soon la. Still couldn't find a solution for FLXer yet, until somebody willing to let me operate their car. So far I only managed to play with few BLM/FL, never FLX yet. Hopefully 1 day get to kacau Asad's FLX then we'll have a bulk deal.

Don't cut the power wire 1st, cincai use rubber band to tie it up 1st. Trim the vacuum hose 1st, or you can do like you suggested this morning, pull the hose from fuse box all the way back to windshield vent . If everything goes well, next step is... custom fit it ON the dashboard. So we can read vacuum with the RPM

totally not comfy...im quite tall and big person..de steering hit my leg basically..
just that it look more premium interior..

drill hole?

If you want it to be wire less... HAHAA

Please dont do that, you might get heart break down

Proton ECU doesn't have vacuum reading?

My Persona:


Derived from manifold pressure you mean? Enlighten me

This post has been edited by mengsuan: Aug 6 2012, 01:15 AM

This is interesting, didn't know they also take vacuum reading. From which car this reading took from? If you don't mind me asking?

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Added on August 6, 2012, 1:16 amSee it now, so it looks like what left behind should be the software (raw code translator), correct me

This post has been edited by davidke20: Aug 6 2012, 01:16 AM

His persona only if that pic is not from google

Only poke the rubber enclosure on the firewall, no other holes required

Yeah, my Persona. Own picture for blogging purpose.

If the developer can write for MOBD protocol, many more cars will be supported.

Ehh I've hit 500+ km only three times so far...

I trimmed the hose this morning dy

I reckon 600+ km can be achieved by doing 90 km/h constant on a long drive like JB-Penang. It's funny how I didn't really try hard to achieve my record 546 km but other times I consistently have trouble breaking the 500 km barrier.

This post has been edited by lhwj: Aug 6 2012, 01:25 AM

One day, I don't want to see vacuum reading anymore. I want BOOST reading

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Added on August 6, 2012, 1:25 amIs the new FLX using the same ECU as Persona Elegance, some 32 bit Continental ECU?

This post has been edited by mengsuan: Aug 6 2012, 01:25 AM

Regardless, vacuum reading is more for troubleshooting. You'll still need that to check your engine head gasket tightness, miscellaneous actuator reading to ensure there is no leakage. Meaning, turbo car in idling you still need vacuum reading to justify. I was searching for the OBD2 reader for GaGa also, to no avail. Let's hope they build the software.

Let's try it with the vacuum gauge then. Awaiting your next 2 tank of petrol to confirm

From what I heard, YES! V12 sifu to confirm.

How do you use it to troubleshoot?

When I whack the car hard with NGV, the vacuum ranges the entire 0.2 to 23in/Hg. With petrol, the vacuum wouldn't drop that low.

Guys,

1. Just installed cabin filter (from the bulk here) this afternoon. I noticed soft whistling sound coming from the blower when I switch on the air-con to 1. Switch to 2, whistling sound gets louder and switch to 3, blower sound covers the whistling sound. Curious, so I took out the cabin filter and switch on the air-con again. Surprisingly, no whistling sound at all at air-con knob 1, 2 or 3. Anyone got such whistling sound after installing cabin filter?

2. For rust-proofing wheel arch area. Will it void warranty if I apply bitumen spray for front and rear?

10q.

Can I join one of you guys? Just bought the car 2 months ago and still no problem with it, quite satisfied with the FC and everything else (I can't complain, mom bought me the cheapest car I requested and the car was quite good for what it's worth

noircharacter | Blue Rock | CVT | Standard

Also, the car is basic at most. From my understanding of the previous threads, the things that can be installed on the car which improve driving experience and FC:

1. Vacuum gauge.
2. OEM brake lock.
3. Lightweight rims.

Any other things that I've missed, please do inform

Firestorm ignition booster.

Anyway, did you guys try it during TT?

Can kacau2, just as long when send to SC, it's undetectable Vacuum gauge don't want with the beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep sound Later my head go boom

I read somewhere a while back (probably PaulTan comments) that the FLX is using the new 32bit ECU..dunno whether it's the same with Persona Elegance



Saga car when OTR, got a lot of sound here and there I'll try listening closely tomorrow.

FLX Vacuum gauge so far no official test yet. You want to be the first beta tester?

NGV?!!??!?! OK. Here is the deal, I'm no mechanic, I can only answer based on my experience.

The only NGV I played with is a WAGA with campor engine. Came with a missle arm switch


When running on gas, RPM goes slightly higher around 1100rpm, whereas petrol is 800rpm. So, easy to say there must be something intervene the throttle body to suck more air+gas on the GAS idling speed. So, below are the fact and point as I can remember:

1) Gas idling vacuum pull more, suck more gas than petrol to keep the engine running
2) Petrol driven campor engine, normal idling vacuum is around 17in/hg only
3) When applied load(driving for example), vacuum reading shoot up near to 0, once smooth cruising will maintain around 20in/hg when running on gas
4) When applied load, vacuum reading able to maintain within 5~15in/hg when running on petrol. Unless you slam on the accelerator, very rare to see 0 vacuum.

The above should be NORMAL setup for gas/petrol powered motor. As for troubleshooting...

1) On idling, vacuum ranging 15~23 is very healthy engine.
2) On idling, with aircond compressor vacuum drop 2~3in/hg is very normal as part of the torque went supply cooling effect(GaGa's SANDEN compressor is differernt story)
3) On idling, vacuum reading should be STABLE.
4) On idling, if vacuum reading flicker meaning 1 of more valve couldn't close tight
5) On idling, vacuum reading goes above 10in/hg(less than 10) meaning there is a leak somewhere
6) On idling, vacuum point to 0. Your car can't move at all. Even if it move, either instant die off or continue drive slow + hutan bakar effect
7) On normal driving, during pickup vacuum went above 10in/hg(less than 10) is very normal, as long as the car cruising smoothly, vacuum reading should drop down between 10~15in/hg.
8) When driving, above 10in/hg burning rich. Petrol/gas burnt out of nothing
9) When driving, between 10~20in/hg is burning stoich. Efficient.
10) When dirving/downhill, vacuum drop below 25in/hg is burning lean... result is...

Source from Urbandictionary

Hope this help. I'm no sifu, but I normally clutch the car during downhill(provided the road is clear and not in a corner).

All having the same whistling sound as expected due to paper filter restriction. As long as windspeed does not compromise, rest assured is clean cabin and longer lasting cooling coil.

Rust proofing... don't know. I got no warranty, so never bother to find out. Let others to take this.