mengsuan

I saw your blog, you got OBDII...

Wondering can it be used in GAGA or not ?? HEHE ^^

then tonight should bring to TT, let dares try it on his car...
if that gadget able to use it on FL/FLX, then another bulk again

Now I say adi then u dont come also.

u mean if LCW win tonights match tmr seriously public holiday ?

Regardless, vacuum reading is more for troubleshooting. You'll still need that to check your engine head gasket tightness, miscellaneous actuator reading to ensure there is no leakage. Meaning, turbo car in idling you still need vacuum reading to justify. I was searching for the OBD2 reader for GaGa also, to no avail. Let's hope they build the software.

NGV?!!??!?!  OK. Here is the deal, I'm no mechanic, I can only answer based on my experience.

The only NGV I played with is a WAGA with campor engine. Came with a missle arm switch


When running on gas, RPM goes slightly higher around 1100rpm, whereas petrol is 800rpm. So, easy to say there must be something intervene the throttle body to suck more air+gas on the GAS idling speed. So, below are the fact and point as I can remember:

1) Gas idling vacuum pull more, suck more gas than petrol to keep the engine running
2) Petrol driven campor engine, normal idling vacuum is around 17in/hg only
3) When applied load(driving for example), vacuum reading shoot up near to 0, once smooth cruising will maintain around 20in/hg when running on gas
4) When applied load, vacuum reading able to maintain within 5~15in/hg when running on petrol. Unless you slam on the accelerator, very rare to see 0 vacuum.

The above should be NORMAL setup for gas/petrol powered motor. As for troubleshooting...

1) On idling, vacuum ranging 15~23 is very healthy engine.
2) On idling, with aircond compressor vacuum drop 2~3in/hg is very normal as part of the torque went supply cooling effect(GaGa's SANDEN compressor is differernt story)
3) On idling, vacuum reading should be STABLE.
4) On idling, if vacuum reading flicker meaning 1 of more valve couldn't close tight
5) On idling, vacuum reading goes above 10in/hg(less than 10) meaning there is a leak somewhere
6) On idling, vacuum point to 0. Your car can't move at all. Even if it move, either instant die off or continue drive slow + hutan bakar effect
7) On normal driving, during pickup vacuum went above 10in/hg(less than 10) is very normal, as long as the car cruising smoothly, vacuum reading should drop down between 10~15in/hg.
8) When driving, above 10in/hg burning rich. Petrol/gas burnt out of nothing below I guess?
9) When driving, between 10~20in/hg is burning stoich. Efficient.
10) When dirving/downhill, vacuum drop below 25in/hg is burning lean... result is...

Source from Urbandictionary

Hope this help. I'm no sifu, but I normally clutch the car during downhill(provided the road is clear and not in a corner).
All having the same whistling sound as expected due to paper filter restriction. As long as windspeed does not compromise, rest assured is clean cabin and longer lasting cooling coil.

Rust proofing... don't know. I got no warranty, so never bother to find out. Let others to take this.

Firestorm Ignition Booster
Bulk price RM220 / RM230 (with postage) - Minimum order for bulk price = 5 orders
Closing date 22 August 2012

1. li_5997
2. kenjilew
3. manubis
4. coolkwc (Postage to JB) [PAID]
5. A573154
6. calvin_kenni [PAID]
7. chuck PIS
8.
9.
10.

hmm, i believe in that too... thinking to find you during night time, to test out the FS performance before bulk order end..    where is your location?