1. confirm one way valve problem, the cracking sound only appear when the valve dry

2. same like mine, driver seat only. I get it replaced at SC for free

This post has been edited by neo1point3: Aug 19 2012, 07:56 PM

Alternator is near the bottom on the left of this picture, can't see from this angle. It looks something like this:



Engine head is underneath the plastic engine cover.

Distributor? mana datang distributor in an EFI engine

This post has been edited by dares: Aug 19 2012, 08:01 PM

Very very thanks for ur guide bro. I waiting the answer 2 days long already, lol.
If no distributor, which part is use to start the engine bro?

This post has been edited by vinorgouki: Aug 19 2012, 10:23 PM

Hi all,

those who follow my post on changing to SAT, below are the updates

1) Original CVT (after 1k service)
- FC = 7.3 km/l
- quite bad not smooth engine during idling (feels like want to mati engine)

2) Change to SAT for 1 week (after #1)
- FC = 6.2 km/l
- engine very smooth, no engine wanna mati feeling

3) Change back to CVT. already running for 1 week (after #2 completed)
- FC = 7.2 km/l
- engine very smooth now (except first 30 min got engine mati feeling, after that no more happening for 1 week)

Conclusion

1) SAT FC worse than CVT
2) Engine want to mati feeling seems can be solved by running SAT for 1 week, after that switch back to CVT but again only tried 1 week. let's see how later

Starter lor.

EFI engines uses electronic-controlled ignition coils to fire the spark plugs, no more distributor.

Thanks Bro,
That means CFE stands for Cash Fuel Exterminator

This post has been edited by doctor.AGF: Aug 20 2012, 12:12 AM

Dear neo1point3,

Thanks for your input.

1) So did you replace the one way valve for free under waranty as well? Do i need to replace the valve immediately? So far after ther first cracking sound, i did not notice any recurrence.

2) Did you replaced the entire driver seat? Mind to share which SC did you go to?

Thx :-)

In my findings..SAT give me good fc when on highway... As at today manage to get 11km/l highway 100%...8-9km/l urban...odo clocked 2k...

1. My EB dont have this owv problem. according to other EB owner, it is free. Need to do appointment at sc first. they will check, if confirm got problem, they will fix it.

2. Replace the metal inside the seat. I went to proton mutiara damansara

hi bro

your urban is 100%, what is the city? did you compare direct with CVT for FC?

1. felt better response when pressing the gas (this is true! i get more response @ 1800-1900rpm frm 0-60km/h, can feel the pulling power below 2000rpm)
2. During cold start did not hear the "craakkk craakk" sound when starting the engine (from my observation after 2wks i think the sound its gone!i know this is too good to be true but this is what i am experiencing frm my Bold. May differ on others)
3. Usually whenever i start the engine the fuel indicator will drop at least 6-8km then the km will slowly climb back up. Now it just stay at what it suppose to indicate the last km. (Yes, the km will stay as before but still drops back to 6-8km and slowly gain upwards depends on your throttle)

Grounding method:
1. from Engine to chasis
2. from Batt (-) to transmission

This post has been edited by akchang: Aug 22 2012, 08:50 AM

Just got the problem from my EB after 12k:

1. Engine mati during idling... (with aircond on)
2. Engine feels want to mati / jerking... especially on traffic jam... (stop and go)
3. Sometimes need to crank longger / need to press gas padel during cold start.
4. Unable to open the Fuel Cover (betul ker??).... Need to cungkil the fuel door.

Lastly need to send to SC for checking all those problem... Is is Mutiara Damansara SC ok... Coz that the nearest Big SC at my area Sungai Buloh...

Hi brotan, ampang-kl area..the highest fc so far 8.2km/l.. Almost like the same with my previous 4G63T..
Not comparing direct with cvt..
Maybe I've got light foot I guess..
My driving style just press the pedal gradually..controlling the pedal to make sure turbine spooling gradually..especially when rpm 1800-2200..

Shit, that means there is no escape from this problem, please keep us updated

I had none of the above expect no # 3, happens on and off not everday.

yup... i also thought that can escape from the problem....

2die4 dude, Sorry to know that yr EB are having such a problem.. Mine is also having the same symptom as yours for #1 & #2.
My OCV valve already changed twice and my CFE is the 1st batch (January batch). Mileage juz passed 9k.. After the second OCV changed, my EB was running fine for about 1.5k km mileage, then the "engine mati" symptom came back once a while... Fortunately, akchang dude reminds me on the grounding project which I had done on
my ex Toyota SEG years back..
Now, I had it DIY on my CFE for 2 weeks already.. As usual, I did 5 important points grounding, which consists :-

*2 points on the body - (important coz proton only did 1 grounding, its mounted to the body, in between the body
& ground wire, there's paint, so i don't know how good the existing grounding are.)

*1 point to the alternator - (important, coz alternator is a generator which generate current to the battery.)

*1 point to the engine - (important, whole engine is sitting on the rubber engine mounting & high current runs to
the spark plugs, so, I dun know how good is the grounding there also)

*1 point on the gearbox - (in between gearbox and the engine, there's a gasket, we dun know how good also)

This is my 2 weeks findings:-

1) Smoother engine - although slight jerking is still there, but has improved. It could be the Punch CVT gearbox
character is like that..
2) So far no engine stalls - could be too early to confirm this, need more time to test.
3) Air-con fan - can feel the efficiency of the fan has improved - slight improvement.
4) Radio reception - slight improved
5) Headlamp light - slight brightness improved
6) Battery - my ex ride T.SEG battery has longer lifespan, although sound system been upgrade with amplifiers, so
not sure about our EB..

This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Aug 25 2012, 09:54 AM

Can share with us any photo bro?? Thx

ur cable long enough? all point direct link to battery?

for the engine, which part u screw bro?

and the gearbox very hot or not? my wire screw very near to gear box.

This post has been edited by vinorgouki: Aug 25 2012, 03:59 PM

Guys, hope this picture can help those who are doing grounding for the first time.. virnorgouki dude, the cable that I
bought is not long enough, but I took the longest one to jumper from gearbox to alternator.. I took approx. 1.5 hour
to complete this project P.S. remember to fix back the original (-) grounding. I bend the bracket a bit so that
the existing negative cable lug can go in..
My next project will be fixing up a voltage stablilizer, after I come back from Taiwan next week...
Happy DIY..

This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Aug 25 2012, 06:06 PM


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