ISWAGA 1.3M
Oil: Wulf 20-50 mineral
Price: RM38
FC: 14c/km

FIRA 1.6M
Oil: Splitfire 10-60 semi
Price: RM68
FC: 16c/km

FIRA 1.3 A/B
Oil: Wulf 15-40 mineral
Price: RM48
FC: 17c/km

MyBi 1.3A
Oil: Casstroll 10-30 mineral
Price: RM38
FC: 16c/km

BiBA 1.0M
Oil: Casstroll 10-30 mineral
Price: RM38
FC: 14c/km

GAGA 1.3M
Oil: Casstroll 15-40 semi
Price: RM79
FC: 18c/km

Jen2 1.6A
Oil: Eneos 15-40 semi
Price: RM95
FC: 22c/km

Some not my car, but I help the owner to menten them.

Err... I get the budget, I work around according to budget nia as for myself... Never felt any difference between mineral/semi. Most of the time my own car change oil between 4k-6k trip regardless mineral/semi. Most significant is last time when my ISWAGA having fever, I fed the fella with Duckhams 40/40 the car immediately become SILENCE. FC menten arnd 400km/tank since it need extra strength to burn engine oil.

After overhaul, use another bottle of DUCKHAMS 20/50 to run in my first 1000km. Then change to 76 10-40 NASCAR. After that been using it all the while, oil+filter change every 3000km. Even oil that drained out still transparent dark brown. FC drastically improved to 600km/tank. Until 76 no longer supply in Boley land, my oil selection has been surrounding cheap/affordable and my engine wear & tear become more obvious. My current 1 full tank about 70 bucks , average FC around 14cents, translate as 450-550km/tank depends on traffic condition.

If I ever get a hold with 76 again, I will switch back to them for as long as they provide the orange bottled 76 NASCAR 10-40 engine oil.

RED- ignition/ACC
Black-chassis/ground
Orange-head lamp

Relay as RED current come in after ACC, then brightlight. When switch on headlamp, ORANGE current come in to trigger relay to dimmer the lights.

Not worthy for the time being.

Getrag = RM4k
Clutch set = RM300
Gear oil = RM80
Labor = RM500

RM4880, you can pump petrol for the next few years. HOWEVER, would be good if can find any import model's Mits GB that can fit to our S4P. Normally used GB around 1~2k, and manual seldom give trouble(unless you're super bad luck).

Set that all aside, if you tell me ultimately you're looking for speed and don't mind spend money, might as well 4G63T

Image from SiuYi.

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Added on May 28, 2012, 6:05 pm


This post has been edited by davidke20: May 28 2012, 06:05 PM

Indeed currently having kunci fest

25?! Where to get 1

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Added on May 29, 2012, 1:16 amClosed long² time ago. That's like April

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 29 2012, 01:16 AM

Nothings wrong with "kunci" fest. Please carry on, at least out of FC topic once in a blue.

I have received face to face b**** slapped by an ex-BLMer Hated to admit, but got the truth out of him in view of the mods on GAGA. Sad but true he said, & he sold his BLM for good since there is nothing much can be done to it.

1) Exhaust system has not much affect the performance bcoz of the freakin SIEMENS ECU has locked, exhaust sensor senses change of pressure/heat, ECU auto adjust intake to reduce emission. MAD!

2) Open pod/drop in performance filter has not much affect the performance bcoz of the freakin SIEMENS ECU has locked, O2 sensor senses change of air flow, ECU auto adjust throttlebody to reduce emission. MAD!!

3) Adjustable cam pulley/lighten crank pulley has not affect the performance bcoz of the freakin SIEMENS ECU will ajust ignition timing to prevent engine damage/reduce emission. MAD!!!

However, would like to ask if any of u guys been through front wheel dyno? Where to do so? How much would it cost? If budget allow, I'd like to do 2x onwheel dyno, before & after I mod my car. I don't mind to post video/result here for the benefit of all. Just to make sure how true his story is

Yes, I can share. Now, trouble is where & how much to dyno. No point go mod so much & don't know what we get for the money we spent. If in the end indeed nothing improve, might as well no need to mod la. Waste time waste money, sumore everytime see roadblock oso sked to death.

Sorry TERommit your comment earlier, phone too damn sloe.

I do this bcoz all the mod is in my list, perhaps I ady got myself a SIMOTA dropin, another unit of K&N dropin for replacement when need to wash. Have plans to go full EVERCO exhaust mod, or maybe custom REMUS mod if budget allowed. Am also currently working closely with the machine engineers to design light weight pulley for aircon compressor,alternator,powersteering, and planned to buy aftermarket cam/crank pulley. All these stuff added up, still cheaper than a computer.

I guess the price for an ECU is killing us. Besides, immobiliser was tapped into the ECU, not an easy job to just swap the ECU out or we'll have trouble firing up the beast.

From what I "HEARD", a guy frm Pandan area had his ride stripped bear & hookup with civic manifold(cable link throttle) with a haltec + customized GB. Those alone costs 20k Haven't get to meet him, would like to time his 0-60 & quater mile to see how much it moved forward from Plotong low emission green monster ECU.

That's why I'm taking the initiative to dyno my car before I start to mod it. Am planning to mod everything, at least put it onwheel dyno to checkout what are the results. If it really insanely change nothing, might as well don't mod. Btw, he's not my fren, just someone I had a chance to chat with. Seriously, there is very little info regarding what mod can do us good for our GAGA. Besides, from what I understand PersoGa & GAGA doesn't share the same engine management. Anybody can confirm that?

I stay in low cost flat. I DIY to show off my pretty neighnour I'm a grease monkey chicks saids guys are attractive when they're working with machines Even I accidently broke my radio panel cover, I had to pretend I purposely did it

What is it had to do with perot buncit I can use my tummy to hold steering wheel when I drive long distance, don't see a problem there . Girl like guys with confidence! Like, "I know my ride, I'm gonna drive crazy, you wanna cum along? ", or "I think there is enough horse power to go 180kmh, just not enough torque to take me there fast I shall BOT". Frankly I have no idea WTF am I talking about sometimes And yes, DIY is fun, and sometimes suffer the agony of trying to make it work and ended up wreck an engine Like Z1 the grand master of DIY, plan first. Most of all, have a backup plan incase things doesn't work out you can fall back, instead of hung your car at the garage for weeks before you get out of trouble.

I think you missed my point, am saying the amount of money to spend on ECU alone already way pass what can be done on the external peripherals such as exhaust/intake/pulleys. During the old days when I mod my 4G93, any external touch up would affect the output. For example, an open pod filter can immediately felt the LAG at low RPM, and great improvement on mid/high range power band. So, I'm planning to go for benchmark dyno before I do the peripheral mods, and go for another dyno just to make sure how suck the SIEMENS ECU is.

Quality? what quality Boley order ka? Murahnyer



Lobang x ngam. cuma iswaga/gaga lama/pergana/persoga/faja boley pakei

kita punya GAGA baru cuma boley ngam ngan FIRA(kalau banding ngan sume Plotong la)

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 29 2012, 08:02 PM

Better than my "CF" wrap right? I think I've done a pretty good job everybody see my keys also shout: "OUCH! MY EYES!", I supposed that is a compliment

Sifu, I know you're very knowledgeable. Take note, I didn't mean INCREASE horse power from the beginning. I fully understand how engine works, just NOT with Plotong maCamPro engine setup with DbW & AFM thing. I know what Weber is, and its a luxury item for the old timers. The only time we get to touch a Weber is when we get a chance to slice an Alfa apart after that damn car being report totaled in an accident. Our alternate selection is SOLEX side draft racing carbs, which is widely available in chop shop THOSE DAYS! I have no idea SIEMENS in our SAGA was a green monster prior purchase the car, and from what I understand, normal sport Erasable Programmable EMS would cost from RM5k onwards (didn't know there are cheaper range nowadays)

GT-Auto
1. Haltech Sprint 500 ECU Only RM 3100.00
2. Haltech Sport 1000 ECU Only RM 4175.00
3. Haltech Sport 2000 ECU Only RM 5560.00
4. Haltech PRO Plugin Skyline R32-34 RM 5560.00
5. Haltech PRO Plugin MITSU EVO 9 RM 5560.00
6. Haltech PRO Plugin 350Z RM 7500.00
7. Haltech PRO Plugin Skyline GTR35 RM 10400.00
8. Haltech PRO Plugin HONDA DC5 RM 5560.00
9. Haltech Platinum Interceptor RM 2260.00

Kinda understand what you mean now... FYI, I've not really complaining on the car, wanted to find out how much those external/peripheral mods can really benefit, that's why I'm looking for dyno However, as I understand if lighten crank pulley wouldn't shed off a few kg FROM the wheel output, and even lighten aircon/alternator/power steering pulley, might as well don't mod. There has to be somewhere to RELEASE some horses FROM the restricted area. Plotong claims 94BHP(which is from the crank), what about the wheels? I wanted a dyno to find out what we have from the original WHEEL HORSE POWER, then the mod. In order to justify how much we bring back from the mods, another dyno is necessarily to find out. For example:



After found out we're actually 31hp sucker than Plotong broucher, du9lan start to mod the damn car with all sorts of rubbish I mentioned before



Now, atleast I know my money spent worthy for 7 front wheel horse power. I understand there is no way to bring back the lost horses, as some already translated into momentum/heat/rotation of other component, such as disc brake rotor, tyre friction, rim size, gear box, flywheel, clutch backwheel, vehicle weight and many other intangible cost of power loss.

Again, let me emphasize, I'm NOT looking for GAIN power from those mods I mentioned, I want to retrieve what has lost from the factory design. I wish the dyno can tell me atleast I now how effective those mods are. Frankly, if you tell me all those mods only improve response and has nothing to do with restoring horse power that losses from crank to wheel... darling I really don't know what to say. Either I turn back home and put everything back to original and drive, or I'm going to sell it off and never mention I once owned that car, or call it a junk and bash it like Eric Goh.

Err... now I know why would you think I'm complaining. Regarding the complain was the guy who beeoutch slap me with his findings, saying no improvement after he mod everything, put on dyno and found there is no significant increase in HP, which I totally understand because he's using 94hp as benchmark. In fact, he sold his car for good now and got himself an EK4... speechless.

Therefore, my proposal is, I want a dyno before I mod, so I get the benchmark. Then I mod the peripherals, and dyno again after that just to find out how much we restore it from the mod, instead of trying to fin 94bhp? Please do understand, this is a DEFEND action However... if the after mod dyno show literally 0 improvement on wheel horse power compare to my benchmark... atleast I can tell fella SAGA lover, no need to waste money on exhaust lar, intake lar, this and that shit. Just proceed to EMS.

Btw, thanks for the headsup, didn't know such cheap EMS exist.

Comes to think of it, yourself has spent enormous amount of time+money in moding your ride, considering the full sets of exhaust system + intake + hours of wood work to craft a CAI, why wouldn't you consider the RM1350 deal? I mean, atleast that thing came with 1 year warranty + onwheel dyno tune up! It's a sure fire thing. Again, don't get me wrong. NOT even trying to provoke. If your answer is what I'm looking for, than good. I won't even bother to modify my car and just go for that classic EMS, after that I'll find that EK4 and smoke 9 him with my standard BLM + RM1350 worth EMS.

Thank you for the reply. I hope those are not sarcasm. I did not manage to fully understand your point. Can you please enlight me whether my idea legit.

1) Dyno before mod to set a benchmark
2) Exhaust, Pulley, Intake mod
3) Dyno to findout how much difference
4) EMS
5) Dyno run/dyno tune

I'd safely said, peripheral mod can cost me no more than 2k, and RM1350 for the EMS+Dynotune, another 2x extra dyno run that would cost around 300. So, set aside the EK4 joke(and its not going to happen anyway, he's going for B20B+B18C ), am I safe to spend these 4k for the entire mod + dynotune?

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 30 2012, 07:08 AM

Positive vibes? Sorry dun hab. Oni negatie stuff.

1) 94bhp?! So big horse power do what?
2) 50 biji durian boot space?! Nak jual durian ke?
3) The most iron vehicle you can buy for the price. Means more petrol consumption.
4) Suspension tuned too good, can do hai speed cornering. Means dai faster.
5) Hated this 1 the most, sooo pretty the car, now gotta wash car every week!

This GAGA is full of crap! The car I komplen most, yet still gotta wash it everyweek, park nicely neatly in the parking lot & hope nobody scratch it. Parking outside office oso sked people steal my car

So, shall I go modify without benchmark? After changing ***** cat purr exhaust then come back tell people my butt dyno tells me HP +50? When I asked for finding a dyno, I have NOT disagree with moding, in fact wanted to find out how much benefit. And I did phrase "IF" no changes on dyno b4 & after, might as well don't mod. Now, does ***** cat doll increase BHP already? I'm sure Butt Horse Power increased jor, coz someone did his butt dyno. Why would 1 always misinterprete my word, twist it and make me sound like I wanted to disagree with modding a car? Don't they see I'm actually trying to support all the mods with dyno figure? Or they're afraid to find out what I've done to my car has little effect after I dyno. Reminds me of the RM250 NUT issue not long ago. Plain ignorant to believe those exhaust producer claim instead of go for dyno, let alone using GTR(a total different platform) as example to compare with a little 1.3 litre engine.

I wish to reemphasize, I do not agree with the ex-BLMer which couldn't find satisfaction with his mod. That's why I proposed to benchmark dyno my pre-mod car and to dyno again post-mod to come out with fact & figure to prove him wrong. Again, why would 1 wanna make me sound absurd and anti-mod?! And again, if the figure tells you changing all those parts - take note, again I use "IF" doesn't restore horse power, will you still mod it? For decoration? For loud exhaust or ***** cat doll? Just to troll people your car is fitted with performance part that doesn't affect performance at all? Yes, you may do that for siok sendiri purpose. "IF" those mod wouldn't improve your performance, atleast you have loud exhaust to scare people away

Frankly, after soaking in this thread sometimes, I've developed some phobia in posting what I have in mind. Everytime I voice my concern, there's always someone on the other side giving sarcastic comment. Dare to do your own dyno to prove the ***** cat mod give you/restore some wheel horse power? Oh wait, if you do then I don't need to do already. IF you get power up from the mod, I will just follow you become ***** cat. IF there is not any improvement, why would I bother to mod it?

Don't worry, if there is no improvement after my mod, I will not post here so to minimize my embarresment. If result is very positive, ofcourse good to share here so fellow Saga lover able to benchmark their mods.