hi guys,

I'm trying to gather some information on dyno types & workshops that provide dyno services in Malaysia... (actually was referring those in KL) but any extra information is always welcomed.
I was thinking to dyno my car (still quite the stock mode) before I mod engine parts, just some ref to begin with so that can keep up properly on the enhancements.
Any cheap & good dyno exercise in / around KL (or other states oso can) ?

pls redirect me if thread already exist... I tried to search but not much similar of info gathered. I'm driving 4G93P btw.

This post has been edited by usus: Jul 2 2007, 02:55 PM

u can try gt auto...the tokei is friendly...and u also can see the wrecked evo 3 over there...

I hear many people go to links for dyno

waaa.... all is sunway... heard got 'expensive' reputation
anyway how much are the rates, respectively?
I'm looking for cheap ones oni... if possible below RM80

aiyoo..

dyno below RM80? lol that's a real cheapskate

i prefer links @ sunway. the sifu there will explain about the engine characteristics. and at the same time recommend mods to further improve the engine performance.
dyno cost: RM80 (member price)
consultation fee: foc


This post has been edited by Rusty Nail: Jul 2 2007, 06:29 PM

RM 80 not call dyno lah...normal tuning only~~

eh rm80 dyno im interested.....wanted to do it for so long edi but didnt.

heard if u go in group it will b cheap, mayb around 60.

thats what i heard from my friendlah, wise club i think, he wasnt really sure too cos it was some times ago.

the 1 he always go to is rm100 per dyno.

wah, where got dyno + tuning for RM80 so cheap??
AFAIK, dyno + tuning should be around RM180 if done at links

i tired to get lower than RM80 but links refuse, in fact other clubs like G2C are also charged RM80. normal price RM100. haven't heard links charging less then RM80 for dyno runs. other places maybe lower.

dyno run but no tuning oso no point

well standard is RM100, most of the shops will be this price

sometimes its useful too, it can shows how the power band of the car, in what rpm is peak or what rpm the power start to drop. its crucial in drag racing cos it will let u know when u should shift the gear.

you got a point there.

This post has been edited by VarioCam: Jul 4 2007, 10:54 AM

hihi... I'm planning to do it more than once, you know.
If could save budget is better...
But no worries I'll adapt to the expensivity

hahah! RM80 found! anyway that could be a good place to start with. Hm... survey bit summore...

yeah, last time fellow ZTH GTIs went on around 12 people... got around RM60 thinks...but dunno which tuner.

what do they tune during that time? care to be specific? still learning here.

Your statement is both wrong

1. RM 80 not call dyno lah - It is call a dyno run
2. normal tuning only - RM80 is not tuning

The difference is for the price of RM80, it is call a dyno run. If you have a piggyback and wish to tune it, it is call dyno tuning which cost RM180 and above, depending on what piggyback you have.

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Added on July 4, 2007, 1:49 pmIt helps to know where is the power band of your original setup. In that sense, when you change to an aftermarket air filter for example, you can do another dyno run to see the changes in the power band.

Initial dyno run is mainly to act as a benchmark for those who are into modifying their cars progressively.

This post has been edited by matthewctj: Jul 4 2007, 01:49 PM

as i mentioned, dyno without tuning also got its benefit. if go dyno tuning, you will need at least to have piggyback or standalone, if not what to tune?

yeah its useful, but who drags a stock car with minimal mods to take advantage?

yeah, you want to see the changes, but it is better to do a dyno before and after installing the part, on the same day instead of after a few weeks - the figures will not add up or be the same....even with the same petrol from the same petrol station.

wow, dyno test more exp than ur filter......

Well, it depends on the part. Some parts requires tuning, while some requires only a simple run just to see the difference. But you need to know that on most EFI engines these days, the ECU needs some run in time to learn the new curve. Example, air filter, some ECU takes only minutes to learn while some several days. So, by immediately doing a dyno run, the result may not be accurate. Whereas an upgrade of fuel pump requires immediate tuning, otherwise, your FC will be high without a consistent powerband.

not everyone driving a stock car here right?

even stock cars will have benefits....e.g. when the dyno graph show's its lower than your previous graph at least you know there is something happening in ur engine rite? spark plugs? spark cable? ignition? fuel pump? fuel injector & so on so forth....

main purpose is that I want an initial benchmark only, there for I opt for dyno run oni.

I'd put in some enhancements like changing filters, lightened cam pulleys, changing to better/performance spark plugs... while my end of the day consideration is doing some balancing on the shafts if not full balancing...
that IS...IF my budget permits...

my extras would be having an emanage & to avoid standalone.
i'm just looking for improvements at a very reliable state & non-peninging rate...

anyway to continue, are there other dyno services apart from sunway? Shah Alam? other states, maybe? heard there is one in Penang, but that's just too far to reach.

This post has been edited by usus: Jul 4 2007, 10:09 PM

yes, there's one in penang. quite new actually just setup last april. normally i go there. standard rate of RM100 for about 2-3 runs. tuning piggyback extra kira. it uses dastek dynometer kira bhp one, same like the one in johor, i donno what's the johor shop name.

viswork? using unichip as their piggyback?

brother there is only 1 main distributor in msia for dastek unichip piggyback, even robyn of rs impressive take unichip from them which is viswork (jb) i forget the owner of the shop name adi but they r close friend as i know...even works engineering is actually very close to the boss of viswork...(or mayb there is another name for their shop ler...)

This post has been edited by CFS: Jul 10 2007, 03:06 PM

no particular reason, my target is to minimize mods & fuss.
standalone can offer more tuning options (what I understood) but I wish to stay with most standard settings.
Read quite a good discussion for 4G93P using SMT-6 (not standalone, rite?) but I need to see how things fit 1st, if need standalone/piggy maybe will give a try. Else just stay low.
still need to learn more

Wanna ask you guys, any change the dyno place can cheat the true HP/torque output of our car?

standalone is good, more option to tweak but it all depend on the tuner cos the base map is crucial, standalone sure involve more $ and time. i prefer upgraded oem ecu with add on tuning function, like hondata & mines etc....

different dyno machine will have slight difference results right?

yeap, this part has it's own custom setting, prefixed but tuneable.
Heard hondata was the best for Honda.

And yeah, diff dyno machines have diff results... might be due to tuning and wear issues.
just from my reading.

ermm...borrow TS thread...

usually, those dyno machine is testing BHP or WHP???

normally its WHP

BHP will make u happier but WHP is really matter the most

They have both, you can request for both printouts.

but i thought both requires different setup...

hey guys, is there any dynos open on Sunday?

i noe rm 80 per dyno run in sri damansara... D-Tuning.

What kinda of setup? Dyno machine setup or car setup? A reputable tuner with reputable brand of tuning machine would be able to generate both readings. No problem ...

Does not require different car setup.

If you drive the car to the dyno, they can only measure the power on wheel. The power on engine is then calculated from the power on wheel. If you want a real power on engine, you'd have to take out the engine, put it on an engine dyno and dyno directly on the engine output shaft.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Aug 6 2007, 02:33 PM

I did mine at GT Auto, Sunway...

Last year, with stock TD04 turbo and 450cc injectors on 4G63T, I got over 156 on wheel. This is with normal auto tranny.

This year, after upgrading to larger TD05-16G turbo and 510 injectors on 4G63T, I got over 265 on wheel. Again, this is with auto tranny. Could have gotten higher but tranny slipped above 6000RPMs. Now, need to figure out why.

Dyno is a good reference before u start your mods. That way, u don't simply upgrade.

I heard someone from another club got only 92 on wheel after putting those Brother's micro compressor that costs over RM 199. This is on a 6A12 2.0 V6 NA engine with auto tranny. Stock engine produce over 110 on wheel. This shows one thing... don't simply mod the engine!

assuming if u have power on wheel is 100hp...whats is the rough calculation to convert to on engine?

d-tuning in kepong, member price rm 80.

gt-auto also rm 80 member price.

that is for normal dyno run oni right?..just to see hp..correct ar bro?

yup just to see ur bhp, of course u want to tune u gotta fork out da extras lor

Which is what your specs on your brochure tells you. Therefor, there is no need to do a dyno on engine anymore. Although the characteristics of each engine differs, the specs are close to it.

Example, my car spec is 80 Kw (109hp) on specs but when dynoed on wheel is only approx 57 Kw (76hp) before tuning. Now with modifications and tuning, it runs at 67 Kw (89.8 hp) on wheel. Do the maths and you are able to get the on engine reading.

That's not entirely true to say that you do not need to do engine dyno anymore. Engine dynos are for true enthusiast, for those who wants the absolute figure.

Here is where your calculations will go wrong. Changing any parts from the engine to the drivetrain influence the calculation and your original formula. Lighter flywheel, better clutches, lighter clutches, different rims, etc etc etc.

While I understand true enthusiast desire, I for one fail to understand how that would assist in determining how that figures can assist them. I see tuning on engine is more to help resolve the issues of reliability of an engine before placing them in a chassis. But the moment it goes into a chassis, the whole figures becomes erratic.

They can get the precise figure and still it wouldn't matter. If I were to take a tuneup engine, B18C for example, and place the engine inside a Civic, the figures churned out for on wheel figures would be different compared to taking the same engine out and placing it inside a CRX. Yet, the same engine will only produce 1 set of figures when calculated on engine. When gear ratios are tuned, they must be tuned on wheel. No point taking the engine out and tune the ratios when all other parts plays a significant role in determining the performance or reliability of a car.

The way I see it, on engine only works when assembling at factory to determine it's realiability. Once inside chassis, that figures don't seem to help in anyway.

I like this, we can learn together ...

But how can you improve the drivetrain without knowing the baseline in the first place? For example, a stock B18C will give you 200hp from factory. Unless you are modding a new engine, that figure no longer holds. As the engine ages, it loses its power. So you do a chassis dyno and get 150HPs. Without an engine dyno, you will not be able to tell whether the lost of 50hps came from the drivetrain or the engine. In theory, transmission lost claimed to be between 12.5-15% but we all know it's never a fixed figure.

When I talked about modding and engine dyno, I'm not talking about changing air filters and replacing performance parts in the engine. I'm talking about the difference of 200 grams in the weight of the crankshaft affecting the power band between 5000-6000rpm. That you'd need an engine dyno.

Furthermore, precision is lost in chassis dyno, as much as up to 5%. That is a big difference when trying to determine whether the latest HKS cams are making the extra 10% power or was it dyno variance.

but then which of them has the most accurate machine?. coz heard speedworks dyno will give u higher reading..the GT auto give lower reading..Links bla bla bla...N1 bla bla bla..RS bla bla bla.... so which one recommended?

i tot previously sleepwalker or some1 already mention all dyno machine are slightly diffrent...depends on when they did their dynomachine calibration....& if you wanan compare with your car club members it's suggested all dyno to be done on 1 place which you can at least have the same figure to compare...

its all up to your pesonal preferences laa

Hmm, makes sense. But that would mean hell for owner and tuner alike. From my understanding of your explanation, from a stripped out used engine, one basically get a reading from that and dyno each and every part affecting changes from the 5-6k powerband. Does that apply to lower powerband as well? So, basically to get the perfect setup, dynoing is done all the way till it actually hits the road ..... damn, as much truth as it holds, do most reputable tuners go to such detail and length?

From what I can see in Malaysia, most just fits them all in and does a dyno tune to figure the best setting. But if power delivery isn't what is expected, they would have a tough time identifying where they went wrong in that sense I guess. Then it's a matter of plug, tune and play for them.