altan actual color flaming red, it PLA if ABS probably hard to get that color

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Dec 16 2014, 10:08 AM

If you like even less parts, don't use wade, just have the stepper motor directly attach to the hobbed gear and have an idler to hold down the filament. I have a box of assorted springs and I use them for making extruders.

Thanks for the compliments, everyone here is contributing to the topic.

My 3D printer comes with its own hotend which uses a ceramic heat break and at first doesn't look like it can change to another hotend. I then designed my own adapter to fit with the J-Head end and thats when I am able to interchange it with other nozzles. I think your Wallace has several wade extruders with different hotend adapters available on thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379/#files

The noise comes form the 40 mm fan, usually it is not noisy like running a pc but after long time when the bearing wears out, it gets noisy over a long time.

Yeah, trying to find the red that is similar with my 3D printer is near impossible...

The color for ABS and PLA differs a lot even if its the same in name, ABS seem to always be dull and matte but PLA seems bright and glossy all the time.

damn, i didn't notice that.I need to go back and check on.

altan, I think i'll buy some spring from you when we meet. I'll get back to you on the hotend. Let me go back and confirm it.

Anyone tried making hobbed bolt with just hacksaw?


This post has been edited by feiming: Dec 16 2014, 01:57 PM

Sure, then I will be bringing my box of assorted springs along for the trade.

Have never made a hobbed gear before but I think the best way is to get a dremel and disc cutting wheel to make a hobbed bolt. Tried to make one from plastic gears but then I realize plastic on plastic will slip and is not hard enough to eat into the filament. DarkTenno mention something of a lathe and workshop.

I will also try making one out of metal gears, if I can find one of the right size.

This post has been edited by altan: Dec 16 2014, 04:42 PM

there is a 3d part on thingverse attachment for dremel for making hobbed gear using cutting disc

I don't have a dremel now. Probably i can give hint for my christmas present

Mine is Jhead. it's 20mm in diameter and about 10++mm depth.

Does your J-Head have the same dimensions as mine?

This post has been edited by altan: Dec 17 2014, 01:28 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

you can buy M3 tap at Roxon at Jalan Loke Yew beside Asia Bolts and Nuts. Its RM 20 for 3 tap. I have a set of M3 tap and M4.

here is the part for making hobbed gear, for me I prefer using direct drive

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23717

I just order some proximity sensor, same type as printrbot getting to check my bed ever now and them is a hassles as I dont have pc connected using LCD is a pain

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Dec 17 2014, 09:30 AM

Is that the hotend your selling? I remember i measure my depth with my finger is about 15 to 16mm but i probably have to measure it correctly tonight.

Thanks for letting me know . I will have to see when I am free to drive in to KL.

LOL, a hobbit maker...

Make sure when you order the proximity sensor they are the Normally-Closed (NC) types because I accidentally bought a set of Normally-Open (NO) types without noticing.

Its a waste and I can only use them for my other projects.

Same goes for PTC and NTC thermistors, they both sense heat but resistance value changes in different direction.

Yup, still trying to sell the set...

This post has been edited by altan: Dec 17 2014, 01:46 PM

altan you can configure the firmware to invert end stop if you gave NO sensor/microswitch

Have not tried that but I have no plans to try it out. Maybe I will try it someday but I will be saving the proximity sensor for my next printer build.

you should, example my mendelmax have auto level configured my Z endstop is configured normal triggered while normal setting should be Open

Yeah, I also accidentally bought NO thermistors when attempting to mod my UP! Luckily I realized something was wrong before replacing the chip!

My 3d printed wade extruder's gear is not round enough till it slip.back to buying an extruder.

This post has been edited by feiming: Dec 18 2014, 09:19 AM

Will take note of that

The supplier 3D printer was probably not calibrated properly. Getting oval circles can be quite annoying at times.

from time to time I'm getting oval when printing with my mendelmax, it due to dust collected by the linear bearing on X axis quite annoying sometime when you realize it while printing, so I always check my printer movement before print and spray some WD40 to the bearing to make it smooth again, this where IGUS bushing come along still haven't ordered mine yet

I'm going to the aluminium shop again this weekend need some 200x200 alu plate for my print bed as I just realized that those inductive sensor can only detect metal to work

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Dec 18 2014, 11:51 AM

have you checked belt for slop/backlash? i had that problem initially but adding a tensioner fixed the problem.