I heard WD 40 can cause more problems to your bearing because its removes rust but if left as it is, the rust particles gets clogged up in your bearings and cause long tern wear. My recommendation is to wipe off any remaining WD40 and add proper lubricant like lithium/white grease to the bearings.

About Igus, so far I have not received any samples from them and its been about a week ago since my sample request.

My advice when getting aluminum plate is to get them as thick as 6 mm or more because aluminum sheets that are too thin tend to bent at certain areas. I tried aluminum foil and aluminum sheet of about 0.5 mm and glue them to thick acrylic plates but the leveling was horrible because some parts were uneven.

Also if you use glass as a heating surface, you might have a problem with proximity sensors because they only trigger at a height of 4 mm from the surface of aluminum. So your glass sheets has to be thinner than 3 mm for it to work, the 1 mm gap is a safe margin preventing the sensor from hitting your print.

nope pure bearing problem as when I move it by hand can feel the bearing not smooth

The aluminium shop open during the weekend?

its cheaper to buy one than build one. not to mention firmware maturity should be seriously consider

Hello and welcome to the reprap forum where all 3D printer enthusiast are discussing about 3D printers. We also double as 3D printer support group in Malaysia as well...

Buying a 3D printer is one way to go if you have the cash to splurge because most printers that are available in the market are at least RM 1.5k and above, including shipping and taxes.

Here is a good link on price comparison of 3D printers and repraps alike that are available: http://www.3ders.org/pricecompare/3dprinters/

it open on Saturday but not sure on sunday

@edmunz

my kossel alt 20x20 cost me less than RM1000 kossel mini diy kit should cost around 1.8k, buy one you mean ready to print assemble? that would cost 5k or more , so far marlin (ramps firmware) are good enough as those commercial printer


4-5 mm is thick enough for aluminium, I work with 3mm alu plate it a nightmare to bend let alone 5mm thick I use them for a catapult carrier did not bend at all with 30kg of force







This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Dec 18 2014, 03:21 PM

can you explain further on firmware maturity?

I suggested 6 mm because I would assume there will be some warping when the aluminum sheet heats up, especially for anything less than 3 mm. My Printrbot heated aluminum bed upgrade came with a 6 mm aluminum bed and I have yet to test for warping. The stock non-heated bed is a 4 mm aluminium bed and auto leveling on it seems good enough for PLA prints.

Nice catapult picture too

This post has been edited by altan: Dec 18 2014, 03:56 PM

my plan now is to reduce usage of heated bed, saving money for electricity bill lol, probably removing the heat bed for all PLA print

True, without heater bed then you can same cost from electricity. Also you don't need heater bed for any PLA blends like Ninjaflex since I manage to print with the stock bed.

and also I can use smaller power supply these 25a power supply are bulky without heatbed 5a is enough

Yeah, you might want to bump up the amp by one or two more because as for my Printrbot, it could barely operate at 6A 12V china laptop power supply and its can sort of black out (correct term brown out) whenever it over heats on a hot day.

put in layman term, the open source software share by builder are like 'Linux' OS. its basic, fully customizable(know/how knowledge very important) and functional. it might not be the best out there but it get the job done.
that being said, the 3D-printer manufacturer usually include their own developed OS, much like Window OS. it's fancy, friendly user and functional but less laggy (correct me if im wrong).

guys, my point here is not to undermine your interest nor this community. im technical guy myself and i like this kind of stuff. If in future i have time and money to spare i would definitely into this hobby.

cheers to you all.

This post has been edited by edmunz: Dec 18 2014, 04:58 PM

I'm sorry, I don't mean to step on anyone's tail, but as a Linux sysadmin, i think the thinking of Windows OS is better than Linux is wrong.
Anything else, i can't comment. Not yet wise enough.

This post has been edited by feiming: Dec 18 2014, 05:11 PM

+1 but I'm not going to start long lasting windows vs linux debate here as it will be endless as I also made my living with linux , 3d printer firmware (open source) has come a long way ever since it started it mature enough for me at least there are quite number of firmware available for 3d printer each of them have their own advantages

Agree, let's keep it to 3d printer and don't open a can of worm.

What matter most is that the technology is available right now to everyone and anyone can invest their time and money into it as a hobby or as a business opportunity.

Regarding firmware of a 3D printer, it depends on the preference of an individual and how compatible the firmware is to a controller board. A lot of start up 3D printing companies I have personally met rather develop their own propriety boards and firmware rather than sourcing it from larger companies due to licensing issues. Also, most of them have different designs and or features distinct from main stream printers, so a custom firmware is in need. Besides, no one will know which firmware will be loaded into a control board whether it may be open source or closed source. Also, its hard to differentiate the performance of a printer based on firmware because the hardware will still be the limitation.

Any one have abs 1.75mm filament for sell?

I can't recommend a local supplier because I never tried their filament.

You can try Qwikfab in Singapore and be sure to mention them about me. Who knows you might get a discount.

Yup yup Qwikfab. Dont know about their ABS tho. Using their PLA and its awesome for now.