the frame is sliced into multiple parts and joined with screws and nuts, some people used epoxy as I've read.

Started my first print yesterday! Very happy with the result. Glad to be joining the club.

Although having some filament stripping issues. Still troubleshooting

Mirror bed, cool.

gear seem fine and sharp motor are fine too, it only happen when filling up large perimeters such as 10x10cm box I can hear and see the extruder try to jam the filament in and almost look like something blocking it which really effect my print quality now when printing large part, my prime suspect is the PTFE sleeve inside the hotend it might already worn out I guess to time to open it again for cleaning up

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Dec 8 2014, 11:45 AM

KLKS already answered that but anyway, in both the links, the Prusa frame have been sub divided to fit in a 6" x 6" bed so you can print a frame larger than the bed itself but it requires some assembly. It may look ugly and the warping may cause the two joining parts to look out of shape but you still get to print stuff bigger than the printer itself. Besides, thingiverse stuff are supposed to be designed for the makerbot bed profile.

I have in my project pipeline to design and print a fully printable track based robot that will be bigger than my printer bed profile of 6" x 6" after assembly but now not motivated since I am not done with my video editing for my current robot. Also, a little short on cash for the project too...

super nice, glad it worked out well.


Another suggestion is to replace the PTFE tubing with a new one because I did come across a PTFE tubing that had severe carbonation at the hotend end, it just keeps jamming non stop even after cleaning. Replacing the whole hotend that has a new PTFE sleeve helps solve the problem but I now have an unusable hotend without a replacement sleeve. Trying to find the correct size PTFE tube has been a pain all this time.

On a side note, I found that the carbonation is usually caused by burnt PLA when PLA left in the hotend at high temperatures (above 200 Deg C) for prolong periods of inactivity. So, normally I keep my hotend around 180 Deg C and only ramp it to the print set temp only when starting a print.

This post has been edited by altan: Dec 8 2014, 12:06 PM

Hmm. Solved the filamemt stripping issue. When i first tried to fix it, i loosen the tension on the idler pulley. Apparently the fix is the opposite of that. Tightened the idler bearing tension. And the issue is gone.

Now im still figuring out why my z height is off when printing. A 20mm calibration cube comes out with height 19.2 mm. Although the height is consistently off by 0.8mm. X and Y axis is fine.

Anyone with any idea of what is off?

You can readjust the Z-axis step_per_mm from the EEPROM of the firmware by using Gcode M92 Z??? or follow the instruction here http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#X_.26_Y...mm_calculations

Some math example of how to find the correct step per mm, the correct step per length is = (correct length) divided by (printed/physical length) multiply by (current steps per mm for that axis shown in EEPROM)

If you are using Repetier-host, you can easily change the EEPROM setting for your connected printer from the config menu without using any Gcode.

Besides that, I am surprised you can get the X and Y axis accurate without calibration. Also you might want to print an object with a hole in it because there are cases where the inner diameter is inaccurate while the outer diameter is accurate. You won't be able to adjust for the inner diameter because that will affect the outer diameter accuracy unless you compromise by calibrating with the tolerance, so your outer and inner will be say 0.25 mm larger for a tolerance of 0.5 mm.

This post has been edited by altan: Dec 8 2014, 11:58 PM

yeah finding the PTFE tubing might be a epic search and Christmas is near everything from china will slow like hell as usual as they start on holiday mood, I usually stop buying stuff during this period of time every year, I'm bless to have 2 (almost 3) printer having 1 in maintenance mode will not affect me much

EDIT:

I think I can get away from search PFTE sleave and buying this instead

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M6x26-Stainless-St...=item3a9599a32a

I can still reuse the heating block and the nozzle, but I will order few extra nozzle just incase

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Dec 9 2014, 09:19 AM

I found a local supplier for PTFE tubing. They only sell their tube in metrics. They don't have ID 3.40mm,the nearest is ID 4mm, RM45/meter.
ID 2mm, RM35/meter. Minimum length is 1meter.

http://www.preeco.com.my/index.php?ws=show...ic#openproducts

This post has been edited by feiming: Dec 9 2014, 10:46 AM

well worst come to worst I can just cut a bit off my kossel bowden tube but not sure it will fit into the metal throat, I will need ID2 as using 1.75mm filament here and RM45/meter is expensive I can get on ebay for RM25/meter if I don't mind the wait

and 3dprinter.my selling them too for RM30/meter a bit cheaper than your source

http://3dprinter.my/abante/extruder-and-ho...ube-id2-x-od3mm

Ya i realize it's expensive too. Still looking for other supplier.

I think by the time i finish my 3d printer,i can start shop supply 3d printer parts.

Found another supplier.

Yureka
http://www.yureka.com.my/Contact+Us_7_1.htm

OD 6mm ID 4mm RM18/meter
OD 4mm ID 2mm RM13/meter

nice! they even using hand drawn maps how cool is that

There's another one http://www.systech-ind.my/product/214/PTFE...ml#.VIZjRvktfDc

i didn't call up to enquire. if you interested to compare price. please share here if you do

Local Suppliers List

This post has been edited by feiming: Dec 9 2014, 05:37 PM

You might have to measure the PTFE tubing in the hotend because a lot of times they come in different ID and OD sizes. As an real example, I just measured the PTFE tubing for the china J-head hotend and its OD is 6.3 mm and ID is 2 mm while another hotend the JGR Alu-hotend has a PTFE OD of 4 mm and ID of 2 mm which matches with the tubing used in Bowden drives.

Nice find and speaking about buying Teflon tubings, I bought 50 meters of OD/ID 4/2mm teflon tube from a Singapore supplier for about SGD 5 per meter (about RM 13 per meter). Planning to sell it along with a Bowden upgrade kit for reprap printers when I finalized my Bowden drive design, its the one in the youtube video.

I could sell the tube without the kit but I think the delivery for you guys is going to be very costly.

50 meter?? So long? The price i got was for small quantity.They will entertain if you drop by to buy 1 meter.

you could cut to size and use pos express to ship. Shipping is about rm3.50 like that

This post has been edited by feiming: Dec 9 2014, 05:53 PM

Yup, it comes in a reel too but that was a year ago when I bought it. At that time, I was unable to find any supplier willing to sell small quantities, so I am left with that option.

Nice suggestion with the pos express, will try that some time.

Also, I am getting 15 meters of GT2 belting from China and if anyone want some you can combine with the Bowden tubing. The belting is as pricy as the Teflon tubing.

i got 2 supplier for that too. but i haven't go and find them or call for pricing.

KT MACHINERY & BEARINGS SDN BHD
http://www.infopages.net.my/company/kt-mac...n-bhd-3189.html
No. 37, Jalan SB Indah 1/2A,Taman Sungai Besi Indah, 43300 Seri Kembangan, Selangor
+603 8943 6339

BELT-TECH ENGINEERING SUPPLIES SDN BHD
http://www.belting.com.my/fproduct01.html
No. 134, Jalan Radin Anum Satu, Sri Petaling, 57000 Kuala Lumpur
+6(03)-90572531, 90572532, 90587975

I updated the list of local supplier on Malayisa reprap user group.http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/Malaysia#Local_Suppliers

This post has been edited by feiming: Dec 9 2014, 06:15 PM

Nice, good find but have you contacted them regarding the pricing and if they are willing to sell in small amounts?

A lot of times, these suppliers don't entertain small quantities and simply ignore or overcharge the item just to get rid of small buyers.

I'll let u know this thursday