I came across this issue for newly built repraps and the problem is solved by placing the limit switch on the opposite side and flipping the stepper motor connector.

Another solution is to mirror every one of your prints in the slicer and it should resolve on its own but trouble some mirroring every part.

You could also change the end stop setting in the firmware from max to min or min to max whichever it is in.

Refer to this too: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,113008

OK.thanks.

Thanks

Ok problem is, all wall rugged.. maybe Z axis M8 studbolt bend ? i perasan if it move and make sound..

I have seen this problem before and its either due to a wobbly z-axis threaded rod or the threaded rod is slightly bent off. If you put the part next to the threaded rod it should match more or less the pitch of the threaded rod.

yeah.. it confirm bend.. i notice when it arrived..


now where to buy replacement local ?

i go asia Bolt n nut.. but the not offer cutting service

If you can spend a bit more, try and replace your threaded rods with lead screws. Lead screws are meant for linear motion translation unlike threaded rods which is meant for holding work piece together.

Try looking back a few pages of posts in this topic since some of us have been posting up spare parts sources for 3D printers.

You could bring your own hack saw and cut the threaded rod there

haha betul la .. i bring saw together lah kan.. but mine M8 woo..

so i want try this

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:141479

so X axis will not kena tarik..

Is it possible to find such a long lead screw? One of my threaded rod is bent on arrival too put it didnt affect my printing that much. Perhaps you can try to straighten it a bit or swap it with the other threaded rod on the other side?

Hi,

If I decided to build one, and the envelope size is at least 16', is that even possible to get the source code ?
online ?

I think can get leadscrew locally but price not damn cheap T_T...

I go to local bolt shop but they dont have stock for zinc coating..

Normally lead screws comes in meter lengths and some retailers may cut the lead screw to size and chamfer the ends.


I think what you mean is to build a reprap with print volume of at least 16 inch on all sides. The source code for the firmware is open source and is available online.

Lead screws are intermediate level parts for repraps, it will be expensive but you should see a big difference in print quality. You can go pro with ball screws and its even more expensive.

I bought cheap printer but it ok.. 1st thing what im frustrated is heatbed is aluminium plate.. it bend also.. the center part is raise.. like concave..

Trying putting a piece of glass on top of the heatbed. That should minimize your problem.

what the thickness are suitable for the glass ?

so the setup like this. heated pcb>aluminiumplate > glass ?

i also had problem with z wobble and i remix this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:141479 design to fit my m8 threaded rods and i can say that the wobble on printed parts all gone now and it look nice and neat also really happy with the result

you should be ok with heated pcb > glass

no need aluminium plate anymore if it was bend

yeah.. i think its better.. i forgot pcb heatbed also got hole for leveling screw.. haha

some silly question.. how to remix it and fit M8 stud ?

This post has been edited by zarul90: Mar 26 2015, 12:53 AM

Guys!

I am exploring the software side of 3D printing. Trying to learn how to draw my own 3D object. Is there any good program which you would recommend for a beginner like me? Tried using Sketchup but all the measurement does not seems to add up once i export the file out as *.obj.

lol, sorry i think i used wrong word i mean i redesign it in freecad to fit with my threaded rods and nuts

Maybe you can try freecad, it can edit stl files that you downloaded from web