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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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eehtsitna
post Feb 25 2015, 11:29 AM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Feb 25 2015, 12:00 PM)
all depend on what firmware you are running, flashed firmware can't be accessed, only thing you can do is EEPROM value that if it is enabled,

I'm using marlin & repitier firmware, I strongly suggest not to touch any of the firmware setting first use as it is unless you want to update the firmware to add more features

flashing firmware to arduino normally we use Arduino IDE which you can download from arduino.cc
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I wanted to make some adjustment to the software endstop since my printer aint align properly. I just cant get my print to be printed at the center of the print bed. It is actually a very minor issue but I cannot get it out of my head. tongue.gif

Any other way i can use to troubleshoot this?
DarkTenno
post Feb 25 2015, 11:34 AM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 25 2015, 11:29 AM)
I wanted to make some adjustment to the software endstop since my printer aint align properly. I just cant get my print to be printed at the center of the print bed. It is actually a very minor issue but I cannot get it out of my head. tongue.gif

Any other way i can use to troubleshoot this?
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adjust your mechanical endstop not software much easier doing hardware adjustment rather than software, for me it does not matter where is the center as long as I can fill the bed with part are enough for me, you not printing for a demo anyway tongue.gif
KLKS
post Feb 25 2015, 11:41 AM

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If you are using repetier host, u can do that from within the software, doesn't require messing with the firmware.
Prosperer
post Feb 25 2015, 08:11 PM

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for autobed leveling which one is better? servo or proximity sensor? i already know how to setup servo but for the sensor i didnt understand in the thomas video on youtube, positive and negative from the sensor connect with positive(RED) and negative(BLACK) from the power supply directly or on the ramps terminal block?

and the signal wire from the sensor will connect into the z end stop signal pin? so there will only be 1 wire connect to the z endstop which is the signal from the sensor. am i right or wrong here smile.gif
jamminc
post Feb 26 2015, 12:04 AM

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Thanks KLKS and altan for the feedback, this is great community here.. rclxms.gif

QUOTE(altan @ Feb 23 2015, 11:46 AM)

Looks like your problem stem from poor filament quality as KLKS has mentioned but at the same time, your PLA printing temperature is a bit too low. You may want to clean out your nozzle once again and try the print at a much higher temp print of 195 - 205 Deg C.
I will check on the filament tomorrow, sounds like a plausible explanation. I cannot think of any other reason for this to happen randomly given the same condition of printing.


QUOTE(altan @ Feb 23 2015, 11:46 AM)
The best way I found for cleaning nozzles is to use a blow torch and just burn out all the PLA and the PLA black residue out until the nozzle looks clean.
thumbup.gif Thanks for the tip.. will do a full cleaning this weekend before attempting to print. However, any options other than blow torch? My blow torch just happen to masuk repair shop tongue.gif .. Will a simple cigarette lighter work?


DarkTenno
post Feb 26 2015, 12:17 AM

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jamminc what kind of hot3nd are you using? some hotend example hotend with those aluminum heatsink have Teflon lining inside the heat break, normally the Teflon are burn need to be replaced, other type is all metal hotend same design but without Teflon tubing, this one purely for high temperature plastic don't even try printing PLA with it as it will jam for sure, I learn it the hard way few days ago tongue.gif, it jam printing PLA but no problem printing ABS
eehtsitna
post Feb 26 2015, 12:00 PM

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Guys!

Anyone know where i can get an assortment of nuts and bolts (M4-M8)? There arent any radioshack equivalent shop in my area. I also need to find some springs which i can use to upgrade my print bed.

Thanks in advance. biggrin.gif
DarkTenno
post Feb 26 2015, 12:29 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 26 2015, 12:00 PM)
Guys!

Anyone know where i can get an assortment of nuts and bolts (M4-M8)? There arent any radioshack equivalent shop in my area. I also need to find some springs which i can use to upgrade my print bed.

Thanks in advance. biggrin.gif
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where your location again?
eehtsitna
post Feb 26 2015, 12:31 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Feb 26 2015, 01:29 PM)
where your location again?
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Im in Sandakan, Sabah. tongue.gif
DarkTenno
post Feb 26 2015, 12:58 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 26 2015, 12:31 PM)
Im in Sandakan, Sabah. tongue.gif
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lol it will be expensive to buy online tongue.gif saw someone on lelong.com.my selling them but cheaper to buy walk-in
eehtsitna
post Feb 26 2015, 01:17 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Feb 26 2015, 01:58 PM)
lol it will be expensive to buy online tongue.gif saw someone on lelong.com.my selling them but cheaper to buy walk-in
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Thats the thing! The shipping alone would most likely cost more than the nuts and screws.
Prosperer
post Feb 26 2015, 05:00 PM

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your local hardware shop should got sell nut and screw, if not try ask at motorcycle repair shop near you, their should got screws and nuts.
cha.968
post Feb 26 2015, 08:54 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 26 2015, 01:17 PM)
Thats the thing! The shipping alone would most likely cost more than the nuts and screws.
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Hi, eehtsitna
I am going to buy some bolts and nuts this Saturday. PM me if you want me to buy for you and poslaju to you on next Monday.
Just tell me the size you want.
Normal hardware shop seldom kept the metric size of screws and nuts.
TefCap
post Feb 28 2015, 12:06 AM

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QUOTE(feiming @ Dec 9 2014, 06:06 PM)
i got 2 supplier for that too. but i haven't go and find them or call for pricing.

KT MACHINERY & BEARINGS SDN BHD
http://www.infopages.net.my/company/kt-mac...n-bhd-3189.html
No. 37, Jalan SB Indah 1/2A,Taman Sungai Besi Indah, 43300 Seri Kembangan, Selangor
+603 8943 6339

BELT-TECH ENGINEERING SUPPLIES SDN BHD
http://www.belting.com.my/fproduct01.html
No. 134, Jalan Radin Anum Satu, Sri Petaling, 57000 Kuala Lumpur
+6(03)-90572531, 90572532, 90587975

I updated the list of local supplier on Malayisa reprap user group.http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/Malaysia#Local_Suppliers
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Depending upon Shipping which usually is more than the product itself but we cater to people who are looking for smaller qty's of Teflon Tubing in all sizes. We carry a large inventory of metric sizes.High Performance Teflon Tubing
sooyewguan
post Mar 1 2015, 10:47 PM

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QUOTE(TefCap @ Feb 28 2015, 12:06 AM)
Depending upon Shipping which usually is more than the product itself but we cater to people who are looking for smaller qty's of Teflon Tubing in all sizes. We carry a large inventory of metric sizes.High Performance Teflon Tubing
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Great to know. Too bad I just order some PTFE tube from aliexpress.

RaymondT
post Mar 2 2015, 12:00 AM

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Hi guys just checking with you all. I have a Prusa i3 I noticed that the mosfet gets really HOT when using the heated bed. Melted my connecter as it was touching it. Anybody tried using the 12v from RAMPS to trigger a relay which getting the 12v from the PSU and then feed to the heated bed and hotend? I have 2 outputs available on my PSU and my PSU is 30A. Thinking of changing it for the hotend and also the heated bed. Thank you.
DarkTenno
post Mar 2 2015, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(RaymondT @ Mar 2 2015, 12:00 AM)
Hi guys just checking with you all. I have a Prusa i3 I noticed that the mosfet gets really HOT when using the heated bed. Melted my connecter as it was touching it. Anybody tried using the 12v from RAMPS to trigger a relay which getting the 12v from the PSU and then feed to the heated bed and hotend? I have 2 outputs available on my PSU and my PSU is 30A. Thinking of changing it for the hotend and also the heated bed. Thank you.
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you need to change the mosfet, I have same problem with my RAMPS1.4, my ramps now using IRLB8743PBF bought from here

http://my.element14.com/international-rect...o220/dp/1740785

or you can always go to pasar road or electronics shop, the Green connector only rated for 10a max while the blue connector are safe for 15A each so usually the Green connector will melt as normally heated bed + hotend printer will normally use around 15A-18A way above rated max Amps for the green connector

I removed the green connector from mine, and soldered a 16AWG silicon wire with a XT60 connector, the XT60 is rated to 100A if I'm not mistaken and the 16AWG around 25A max but I have been pushing these silicon cable to a constant 60A without no problem

eehtsitna
post Mar 2 2015, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(RaymondT @ Mar 2 2015, 01:00 AM)
Hi guys just checking with you all. I have a Prusa i3 I noticed that the mosfet gets really HOT when using the heated bed. Melted my connecter as it was touching it. Anybody tried using the 12v from RAMPS to trigger a relay which getting the 12v from the PSU and then feed to the heated bed and hotend? I have 2 outputs available on my PSU and my PSU is 30A. Thinking of changing it for the hotend and also the heated bed. Thank you.
*
Sounds like a similar issue with mine and i have yet to figure out a solution for that. I tried swapping a new RAMPS and yet the mosfet in the new RAMPS seems to be over heating too.

That aside, does any one have a good spool holder which you would recommend? Printed out one over the weekend but it does not function that well.
KLKS
post Mar 2 2015, 11:02 AM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Mar 2 2015, 10:58 AM)
Sounds like a similar issue with mine and i have yet to figure out a solution for that. I tried swapping a new RAMPS and yet the mosfet in the new RAMPS seems to be over heating too.

That aside, does any one have a good spool holder which you would recommend? Printed out one over the weekend but it does not function that well.
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If your comfortable with a soldering iron, you could move the mosfets over to a heatsink block and put a fan over it. That's what i did (see the pic afew posts ago)

RaymondT
post Mar 2 2015, 11:08 AM

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I think I'll just keep from using the heated bed for now before I do modification to it.

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