oh like that only? anyway since it's under warranty, will call them to come and fix it

thanks again

my water heating is making screeching noise and plumber only available next 2 days

i turn off the switch directly from DB switch but still have noise. any other workaround while waiting for plumber?

This post has been edited by hihihehe: Dec 6 2023, 02:26 PM

Suppose no electrical noises since you switched off from the DB,The one you switched off isit the one for WH?Can you reconfirm.

Ya i turn off directly from DB and the noise disappear after 12 hours

Just letting you know one of three units just burned after 4 months of usage, and it's the only unit we use daily. The other two are just occasionally. Will let you know what's the cause.

Which part of your Livinox water heater burned?


If the power cable connection burn,

I believe Livinox should be 4.5kW, which uses much more electricity compared to common instant water heater. If you are using only 2.5mm2 power cable (underspec, you should be using at least 4mm2 power cable, refer to Suruhanjaya Tenaga guideline table below), the cable might not be able to handle the high power consumption of the Livinox water heater and cause it to burn.




If the power cable terminal connection in the Livinox water heater burn,

Might be the fault of the installer who never connect the power cable securely to the terminal block in the Livinox water heater, hence causing sparks which leads to burn of the location around the terminal block.


If the 3-pin plug burn,

Worst still if you are using 3-pin plug and socket connection for your high power consumption Livinox 4.5kW water heater, most likely it will burn. U should never use 3-pin plug and socket to power up any water heater, what's more a high power consuming water heater like Livinox. If u are currently using 3-pin plug and socket connection, I suggest u to replace it with a SIRIM & Suruhanjaya Tenaga certified water heater connector like this CENTON one - Shopee / Lazada



This post has been edited by Selene Yeo: Dec 14 2024, 10:02 PM

I have a water heater can pump but not the heater. its a Rubine with DC water pump. should I dismantle it and bring it for repair ?

Try calling their office for home servicing. If your water heater is above 1 year, usually u will have to pay for the servicing fee (estimate about RM50 to 100), and if the parts are no longer under warranty, u have to pay for the replacement parts as well. Most brands usually have different warranty periods for the different parts in the water heater.

hi all, can you suggest the cheapest water heater with pump available?
need to purchase one for my tenant.

thanks.

Cheapest in the market should be those made in China ones, such as HAIER (Shopee link here) followed by TOSHIBA (Shopee link here). Heard from salesperson, apparently HAIER might be selling every unit at a lost (selling price below cost price) to try kill the existing water heater brands in Malaysia, so might want to be careful of its quality.

If u prefer made in Malaysia, cheapest is CENTON (Shopee link here), not as cheap as the above China brands, but it has the highest number of 5 star reviews on Shopee.

This post has been edited by Selene Yeo: Dec 14 2024, 10:06 PM

thank you very much for your help.

Hi sifus, my house have an old National water heater for more than 20 years, everything is still working fine, but I want to change the shower head and hose. Are other brands like Joven, Alpha or Centon shower head and hose compatible and interchangeable? Or just Panasonic only?

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/PS310-80XA-BA...B0CGX4D2DL?th=1

I also looking at this shower head and hose, but not sure the metal/chrome screw is an issue or not.

This post has been edited by cwk0713: Feb 1 2024, 02:38 PM

It really depends on what u define as 'compatible'. If it is just whether water can flow out, then yes.

But if what u meant by 'compatible' is to have the same water flow / water pressure as your old National shower handset and hose, and can fit nicely with your old National handset holder, then I think even Panasonic salespersons dare not guarantee it will be 'compatible', since your National instant water heater has been discontinued for production more than a decade ago. U will have to take your own risk.


U should also buy a new handset holder too to match the new hose + shower handset (same brand / set), so that the hose + shower handset can fit nicely on the handset holder. And do expect water flow / pressure to be different than your old National shower handset, since it depends a lot on the handset's nozzle size and quantity. The smaller the nozzle size, the higher the water pressure (sharper and further water spray); the higher the nozzle quantity, the higher the water flow (provided water pressure is sufficient).


Also, make sure the new hose + shower handset you are buying are non-conductive, as per Suruhanjaya Tenaga guideline.

Thanks!! Regarding the conductive part, if a hose contains brass / copper in or around the screw nut, is it safe?


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Safe or not I am not sure, but if I'm not mistaken Suruhanjaya Tenaga states every parts of the hose have to be non-conductive.

Yes, this is fine. The hose must not be made of a conductive material end-to-end to reduce the risk of electrocution.
In theory, using a plastic fitting at the outlet is also permissible as the insulator, should you be using a metal hose (They do this with storage water heaters) But I would not recommend this, as I want the longest insulator possible for safety.

Still not recommended, as the metal part of the screw nut that is joined to the instant water heater's outlet is still reachable by humans, eg. people might still touch that metal part mid-shower to tighten it if there's water leaking, or the ELCB test / reset button on the instant water heater is also usually located very close to the inlet / outlet. So best if whole hose is non-conductive.

For storage water heater, not just a plastic fitting, but a non-conductive component called an isolation barrier is compulsory by SIRIM & Suruhanjaya Tenaga to be installed at both inlet and outlet of a storage water heater (before it is connected to a metal hose). The component mimics a 1 meter long non-conductive pathway to reduce any electric current between the storage water heater and human and make the current flow non-lethal when the human touches the metal hose.

Just curious... is this your opinion or are there actual rules? Your previous post was "....required by ST if you are not mistaken". I get where you are coming from when you say the metallic nut can be touched, but I checked my instant heater and the hot outlet is already made out of plastic. So, to me the metallic nut is okay. But I would welcome any actual text that says otherwise as I like following the rules. Bad things happen when rules are not followed. Bad things happen when rules are followed too, but at least no one can say stormer.lyn is the dumba$$ who couldn't follow simple rules.



Apologies for using a layman's term to describe the isolation barrier unit.

haha the actual rules I am not so sure, that one need to ask Suruhanjaya Tenaga or the water heater brands, so its my personal opinion


Solid component (instant water heater's plastic outlet) may not have direct contact between metals, but water flow is still conductive.

It might be the same reason why a storage water heater, despite having a plastic outlet like instant water heater, still have to be fixed with an isolation barrier before connecting to a metal hose.

So if cwk0713 insists to use a hose with metal screw, to be safe, an isolation barrier should be installed in between the instant water heater and the metal screw first.

But the above is also my personal opinion la, better be safe than sorry.

The isolation barrier for storage heaters is because typically, the hot water pipes are copper/metal until the tap fitting, which is also metal. That would be direct contact to electricity in case of a fault in the WH. Water in itself, without soap, is not that conductive. As you say, the isolation barrier mimics a 1 m non-conductive path, which is enough to prevent most electrocutions.

I agree with you. Always safer is better than not. Thanks for your insight.

cwk0713 Better not to use the hose with the metal nuts you have. Even if it is a 0.000001% chance, go for a safer solution like an all plastic connecting hose.