Aside from the look of the WH (cosmetics), but for me doing that twist valve thing to on off kinda feels like not much difference (besides the cosmetic look and the price) from the entry level series WH
Seems like another option for 3800W heaters.
For that price range they should be doing push start as standard.. as all our older National ABJ elephant/Pana (square box older series) and (DH3-MS1) were around 300-400 bucks nominal price range already have it.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 26 2021, 12:17 AM

Yes this looks simple design..try to get a pair of Fire Barrier ( lightning arrestor ) install at inlet/ outlet for safety purposes.

10mA RCD at the DB box will protect the whole WH circuit well. Ideally all controls (switches, RCD) should be outside of wet area in case of accidental splashing/water ingress.

Lightning is very brief overvoltage but when voltage big, current becomes very small. Usually in this scenario the main RCD (sensitive one like 30mA) or failing which (the 10mA) will have tripped off due to current imbalance (input>output current or vice versa as it measures the delta) anyway.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 26 2021, 01:06 PM

brought new panasonic DH-3RP1MK water heater recently and having problem with the pump, as the pump keep operating non stop even there is no water flow. reply from their technician is that this model and other similar model which below rm600 are a failure design, whereby model above rm600 are improved from this failure design. i hope ppl who reading this comment can browse yotube as there are many pl post video on the youtube. pls dont waste money on panasonic water heater unless u buy above rm600.

Yeah raised this to seller before seems like it is what it is.

So far no issue really been using more than 4 years, that pump noise somehow serve as a reminder to turn the power off as occasionally I may forget to turn it off.

Previously was using non-pump then later change to pump type for better flow. Can use valve control to control water pressure.

hi guys, was planning to install ceiling rain shower and storage water heater. is there any requirement or thing that I need to concern? pump is needed for rain shower right? thanks in advance.

The most expensive water heater from Panasonic DH-3NDP1MS not even exceed 600 , or there's more expensive model than this one?

I have seen in Condo, they installed rain shower without pump. The key points are your incoming water pressure ( around 3 bar, i think )

and also the water flow rate, at least 13 liters/min for rain shower.. Check with your management office..

White, 4800W, DC Pump / DH4HP1M
The 4800W pump ones list at above 600

Cheapest can get 499 at shopee, not using any voucher yet

Depending on the condo some is like 4bar from syabas incoming to underground feed tank. Then from this common UG tank it is pumpednto roof tank. Roof down to unit usually pressurised enough for rain shower, but one can experiment in 1 min how many liters of water can you fill up.

For mine (even if its just a rumaweep) the pressure is good enough (even setting 50% at the main valve for my unit) to max out the heater power at 90 100%

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 27 2021, 12:09 AM

just buy panasonic ada elephant bath anak logo one, so far so good so best
no need pump, normal one will do

Landed prop usually weak pressure so pump is better. Nowadays newer condo and the older ones with renewed water piping pressure is awesome.

The elephant one is national era ABJ series..
Yes this old clunker still operating.


This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 27 2021, 12:20 AM

ohh so which means it will depend on my condo flow rate/water pressure right? what if my condo doesn't meet the requirement and is there anything I can increase the flow rate/water pressure? sorry I'm quite new to plumbing thingy haha

If the flow rate is slow it becomes a drizzle shower rather than rain shower then maybe need a pump WH

If pressure so strong u cannot shut the (tap max open) water from hose by pressing the end of the hose then its generally ok
If easily can use a thumb to shut off water from hose when (tap max open) your pressure not good

This is where the water pump come to the picture

True, built in pump at WH is milder and lesser things after pump (pressurised portion) to go wrong. Standalone pump stronger but your piping should be easily accessible in case of leak sonewhere at the joints, also should use uprated class7 pvc instead of class0 pvc pipe. Few bucks diff only. Also screw fittings cost few bucks more but are more user serviceable than the chloroform ones.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 27 2021, 04:30 PM

Do note that higher water flow rate will cause lower output water temperature (because of lesser contact time between heating element and water flow).

For condos with high water flow rate, usually ppl with instant water heater heating element that is anything lesser than 4kW, will usually complain water not hot enough.

If your condo's water flow rate is very high, suggest u to get a storage water heater instead. Or if u insist on getting instant water heater, CENTON has a Serene Highlands model specially for condos with high flow rate, with a 5.4kW heating element.

To add on, it is a good suggestion to have better heat at high pressure site, but will require a new cable run as the default wiring spec from developer is usually only 2.5mm.
>4800W need to upgrade the cable to min 4mm (or better, 6mm) to support the amps accordingly;
5400W still can be protected with 25A 10mA RCD