ermmm... Coz my compression ratio is 11.8 and there insufficient flow in my exhaust. At least that's what JC Racing and also my engine builder told me.

Also when on Ron 95. There's a funny bubbling sound coming from my exhaust that's not there when I'm running RON 97. Not sure how to describe the sound, maybe correct term is backfire.

wat engine u running? and if ur on B series OBD0 or OBD1 or OBD2? and wats ur exhaust setup?

and do u have any form of management?

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jun 24 2012, 01:59 AM

K20A ported and polished intake and exhaust. Exhaust is 4-2-1 (1.8 inch)
running with E-manage Ultimate and V-manage (ECU not compatible with Hondata)

huh? how come ur K20 isnt compatible with hondata? tried checking out K-Pro?

anyway...urs is K20A-Type R or Type S or the normal K20a in stream, CRV, FD2? the autos

and 1.8" thats waaaaaaaaaaaayyyy too small... if urs is the R or S... then u should be running 2.5"

either way....i assume with ur management u have ignition tuning? if yes, then u should be able to tune to RON95...check with ur tuner.


the K20A that blew i mentioned earlier...i heard he built a K24 after that...and still running on RON95

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jun 24 2012, 02:30 AM

K20A type R.... coz' the ECU is not from a type-R that's why not compatible with any Hondata stuff, including K-pro. I wish there was a way to make it compatible without changing the ECU, re-wiring, etc... but oh well.... can't undo past mistake without spending a bomb..

yup, my tuner recommended 2.5" also....

Should I go for S-flow or straight flow??

odd setup... u just plonked in an engine kosong is it?

s-flow or straight flow up to u man... but if auto, go for the s-flow

Yep... Engine kosong

It's a 2.0 actually... and using 97 RON as well

fuiyoh... high comp B20?

or did u get a K-swap?

got a decent pair for my rear.
will use the rs pads and rotors when my current ones perish.
his better than rcs shocks oso dem shiok

b20 or k20?

This post has been edited by zenix: Jun 25 2012, 02:32 AM

Well, the B20B is a bit of an old story. Long ago swap. Didn't opt for high comp, only 11.8, so if at a pinch where 97 not available, can run 95 now, but not high rpm (with B20B, who needs high rpm lol). Compared to the 1.6 1.8 B series, cannot lenjan like no tommorow. For daily driving though, the torque is

K swap, my friend is doing, a bit too expensive for my blood though. In 5-6 years maybe.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 25 2012, 02:47 AM

11.8? wat pistons u using? wat bore?

do share ur engine specs if u dont mind

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jun 25 2012, 03:44 AM

2013 civic design is shrinking kinda fakap :'-(

copy me say fakkap
i agree it grew alot from gen7 & 8 now gen9 shrink

im planning to buy eg8 or eg9 well it depends on budget around 20~k.

any advice for senior member?

currently im driving satria neo 1.6 auto. planning to get d15 manual or perhaps b16 manual.. well still it depends on the condition of the car. do you think its a good decision to change my car...

well this because im joining my brothers who recently bought an EK3 and my second brother used EF for about 2 years already so i think i join the bandwagon, do you think this is a good decision? thank you

This post has been edited by mykazza: Jun 25 2012, 10:18 AM

selling a new car for an old car isn't always a great idea.

Agree with this. I can tell you I pour a lot of money for my 5th gen for maintenance. The rubber bits are quite expensive cumulatively. My door rubber seals easily costed me 1.5K upwards, outer door seal, inner door seal, run channel (the run channel rubber price was seriously a killer! 200+ for the shortest rubber in the bunch.

In my case it was a suitable choice for me, since the car has been in my possession for nearly a decade, with one top overhaul, and later on, a few engine swaps to where it is now. Total I spend probably 80K plus price of car, but that cost is spread over the span of many years, so not really a big deal.

If you are going to buy, I can tell you all the rubber bits will be likely broken and need replacement, the power windows are just waiting to die (mine all four died already, and I bought new replacements last year, the tiny plastic wheel on the scissor link all hancur/ almost hancur.) So I'm going to state what zenix said. NOT A GOOD IDEA, the cars are just too old.

It's damn near impossible to find a mint well maintained one for a good pricepoint.


Madman,
Specs eh? the engine is damn old already but (as I remember it)
it's a B18cR with a B20B block. (ori block involved in accident cracking the block), reused innards, and plonked into B20B, ran a while with CF4 pistons, then started consuming engine oil, took apart, rebuilt into current form now.
Wiseco Pistons 85mm
Forged rods (forgot what brand, only remember I opted for I beams for lightweight)
Block Guard
Type R cams
Hondata S300.
Mugen Header
Kakimoto's 2.5" exhaust set for DC2
Intake Edelbrock Performer X (this is a very recent purchase)
Type R intake with rebored Type R TB
Only making 200ish whp

Daily driven, occasional abuse, which is probably why it lasted so long. I never hold 6-9K rpm for long.
Currently getting that intake installed along with door rubber seals.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 25 2012, 12:36 PM

so even honda fan doesnt recommended me to change my satria to an old eg9. so i guess it was ok just to maintain my current car. but well its a proton. compare to a honda ... u know what people say..

well maybe i just get involve so much to join them in the bandwagon i guess i just pass then ... and keep my car.. well any other suggestion are still open... ill keep it alive and always take a new consideration

to put it into perspective for you.
99 spec ek4 is already 13 years old.
the eg's are way older nearing 20.

totally aware of that. but i want to scream like ' MY VTEC GIES BWAHHH!!"