Ya ya ya

Got any problem, don't hesitate to claim warranty.

i am not gonna say this much,eric,sit in my car and cruise til 140,we shall see the difference,=) only 1 layer of stp is not enuff too...u need at least 1 layer of dampening and sound absortion....used to have 3 layers in 1 single door,the insulation was amazing....well,up to your all to decide,

I await.

i DIY insufflex before, and bought from you as well...

Nothing against you, just my direct comparison between ex-insufflex SP and dampening+SP setup currently.

What my observation on my Saga is this car needs dampening more rather than SP. Furthermore dampening material have SP function as well. When our car ride on those rough surface tarmac (not damage/bumpy road), the cabin inside is just like a 'midbass echo hall', the midbass from the speaker just covered by those bass noise because of car body rattling.

And one important point, rattling noise can't just solved simply by insufflex (well, maybe is my car only), i know alot of user did say it solved it, but also alot of user claim it was useless, so this is debatable. If said block some wind noise and outside vehicle engine noise from door, then acceptable for me.

Since this is DIY, i think choose something better at 1st rather than change afterward, becos i know how torture to change afterward, have to remove those glue residue applied before. If really budget constraint, at least one layer dampening + insufflex if you like, i would say it depends on user budget, just want to share my point of view only.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 8 2011, 01:38 PM

DAMN my FLX hv same problem too,
i hv to close my rear boot for few times onli it can be closed properly.

But i dun think Proton wil replace new boot for us,
align it properly for us perhaps at most

Check alignment.

They will adjust the arms nut for you...

Guys, for soundproofing,
my personal experience on my previous car was,
rubber seal on door frame + bitumen material (i guess tis is d dampening pad that u all mentioned) + superlon material (insufflex) did really handle their job well,
what i can say is miss one of them will affect the effect,
all of them have different uses and effects..

For me bitumen is to BLOCK all the road noise and other noises such as metal rattling noise, so called "mid-bass echo",
while superlon is to ABSORB the rattling noise produced by plastic panel, and it also can absorb some of the noise produced by plastic + metal contact too..
For me they hv different uses

Another important thing is WIND NOISE, this one will very obvious if u drive above 100km/h (especially for my previous car which is a KENARI), what i did last time is change all the rubber seal on door frame to the one with at "D sealant",
and i squeeze some superlon inside the front fender there (there's a big hole in the fender if u see from dashboard/front door, this place can bring alot of wind noise into cabin). For my kenari after i squeezed the thing to cover the hole, the wind noise was reduced 40% at least

Ohya forgot to mention what I did on my previous car was,
Full car bitumen soundproof which covered:
Front door dual layer, rear door one layer, rear bonnet dual layer (Kenari's rear bonnet is a door actually), plus floor whole covered including spare tyres area, and firewall area too!! Oops i did some on my A-pillar too
While superlon I did it for my rear door panel, some floor area, firewall area, roof top, A pillar plus B pillar.

---

Added on October 8, 2011, 2:13 pmFor our Saga (or at least my FLX),
I noticed the main noise for nw is the road noise (which is killing me), and also the engine noise...
But i don't dare to take out this car's dashboard to do soundproofing la =.="
To kill road noise i guess have to do soundproofing for floor area and most important part which is tyres area dy, but I'm afraid that using bitumen material my FLX wiil heavier alot

---

Added on October 8, 2011, 2:17 pmChecked dy, I think is misalignment issue


Yea, going to ask them adjust for me the next visit to SC

This post has been edited by LittleMin: Oct 8 2011, 02:17 PM

I did all that you did for ur Kenari on my BLM, except firewall now, becos this one can't DIY myself. Furthermore for door is quite overkill, Front door 4 layers + rear door 3 layers.

My gf own a Kenari as well, if direct compare without SP, Saga road noise tends toward midbass frequency region, which might kill ICE and long journey comfortable, and this midbass noise also very hard to kill by SP only, dampening is a must if you talking about serious SP. While Kenari is tends to high frequency range, which can covered by soundproof more than dampening.

For FLX, if you want, do a proper dampening and SP like ur previous Kenari, it will help to reduce road noise and engine noise alot, yes, only 4 doors the outcome is impressed already.

Finally, yes, the car will become heavier, my rear suspension is almost 1cm lower after done all the dampening and SP + 1 large sub at boot, FC wise, the effect is negligible, but the comfortable outcome is just unbeatable.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 8 2011, 02:32 PM

no la,no offense too,just a discussion,coz myself uses cheapo bitumen from hardware shop and the result quite ok too.....i also changed the rubber..and yea,a complete soundproofing must combine dampening and sound absortion,if still not satisfied,then must folo emma style ad,aluminium plate 3 layers.....

Bro, what is dampening actually?

I don't want my FLX to bcum heavier la, nt for the fuel consumption issue,
it's for the engine power issue
Damn y dun proton come out 1.6 FLX faster so i no nid worry bout the power issue

Might be try on autofoam, as i heard that it can SP also,
and it is lightweight

servicing car now...

i was told that my belt tensioner got problem d, if not change, it will breka the belt...rm390 again...


i thought this is included in timing belt kit, but it is not..

RM480 + RM390 = T_T

Bro those hardware bitumen might have the consequences of peeling off frm ur door,
don't play play as I kena b4 on my another car Kelisa
as they can't tahan the heat as much as like what automotive bitumen did..

BTW bro u selling insufflex rite? Might buy frm u nxt time when i starting to DIY my FLX

hmm... reminds me of the manual FLX I view at shah alam.
I have to shut it 5-6 times only it closes properly. Then I go back home and try mine, same strength, bam, close in single try.

timing belt and tensioner belt is different...so finally confirm...timing belt and tensioner belt have to be changed at 80k
how much is the tensioner belt?
and u just did your 80k service not long ago
u drive alot ....i haven't did my 80k service yet...now 73k KM

I think I need the Bidor spare part shop address where you bought your mudguard.

Keep it in case really whole KL/PJ tak de. Maybe drop by to buy when go Ipoh.

Can om nom nom Bidor food

Bidor nothing nice to eat one.

That Pun Chun punya herbal duck noodles up car one. In fact whole restaurant up car one. Price shit brix, taste shit brix, shit also shit brix.

Kampar at least still has a decent restaurant which serve that curry chicken bread.

Jom. Next week we convoy go Ipoh food hunting.

u pay my expenses aah~