going for service 25k tomorrow, however 2sc that i ask treating me with warranty when using own oil. (even ori oil).
And lube now price hike?

Don't know if original coolant is premix. If it is, I would advise to buy a bottle of the original coolant and ask SC to use it instead of using water. Water dilute pre-mix coolant making it much less effective.

[quote=Cavino,Aug 2 2011, 09:46 AM]
If you're within 1K mileage, then can go do it FOC at SC. After 1K, better do it outside. Abt RM5 per wheel. If 4 wheel, max RM20.

No need to tell SC and no warranty void coz wheel mana ada warranty wan. Wear and tear. Delay should not be a problem, might wear a bit on tyre tread evenness but if try not to delay too long.

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Added on August 2, 2011, 10:06 am

thanks...my mileage 2k+ already...if go proton how much?

HI, got 1 question below:
Want to trade-in old car to buy new car, if old car (under my name) got summon, any problem to: (a)cut old car name & (b)register new car?

Not sure, nvr done that at SC. A good tyre shop is way more pro at handling tyres setting than SC.

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Added on August 2, 2011, 11:27 pmSpend quite some times research on Fully Syn and had some discussion with a few in the knows.

Conclusion : It seems all FS, SS and Mineral had the same addictives within the same brand. Meaning although FS would not break down as fast, its addictive will still wear out at the same rate as mineral addictive.

So those that use FS, be advice to still follow the 5K service interval for minimize engine wear. As for SS, it is using Group 2/3 mineral base stock, same wear rate as standard mineral. Don't exceed 5K.

From what I've read, currently only Mobil 1 (Gold), Redline and Motul is using true Group IV synthetic PAO base oil. All others especially the Castrol is using Group 3+ hydrocracked mineral as based stock.

Just read up the spec on my City Idemitsu 5W30 FS. Yeah, its hydrocracked mineral all right, with -36C pour point (true FS -64) and 215C flash point (true FS 250C....darn even mineral also 230C liao)....does not matter on that tho...coz engine will melt if hit that heat.

No wonder my City when switch to FS, totally no problem, just improvement coz its still mineral, just very high quality wan...unlike true FS, man made.....that means still have contaminants...

Either way, I'm servicing FS at 5K....maybe 6-7K max if short of cash. So far at almost 7K mileage, FS still going strong but its best to change it out before addictive disappear coz by then damage might have been done.

Damn cialat, all FS also write 100% Fully Synthetic...what they meant is the small amt of base oil they use is 100% synthetic, the rest of 90%....hydrocracked mineral oil..

Also wondering abt Magnatec. If it can form a layer of oil that STICK to the moving parts (piston)....would it also form a layer that stick to non moving parts....valve, piping,etc that might end up clogging them up when more contaminant are trap in the oil?

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 2 2011, 11:32 PM

To explain this would require very indepth explanation.. In short, its cos our brakes are only 2 piston brakes. Therefore among the whole surface area of the brake pads, only 2 points are getting the pressure.. So that 2 points actually wear out faster.. That 2 points tend to be near the centre of the pads and not at the edges. So after sometime the middle part will get higher wear rate than the side whenever u brake to come to a complete stop or hard braking.. Therefore the pads become curved and the edges actually becomes slightly higher than the middle. So whenever u do light braking, the edges comes into contact with the disc first.. Causing resonance in the hollow middle, and producing the high pitch screeching sound. If u were to press the brake a bit more harder, then the middle hollow part will be forced to come into contact with the disc, therefore the sound is eliminated.. Paham sekarang?
For 10k service better to use fully-sync oil.. As the oil doesnt degrade as fast as semi or mineral oil.. My semi 9.3k mileage ady.. hehe.. But can feel the engine very heavy now..

Totally not normal at all.. Even with my hardcore revving and fully loaded car going up, the termostat barely increased compared to normal... if the water becomes too hot the water pump may suffer from premature failure.. Not sure what went wrong, but probably due to the fan not spinning or when u went up genting that time the air wasnt cool enough..

My rat dieded ady.. Till now no more noise.. hehe..

will be making 2 sizes.. One is as big as the Nissan Crazy sticker and another will be those 4x5" square condo sticker type..

The mechanic could have become a lawyer.. He got u speechless in every question. haha..

Nope.. as long as its authorised then there would be no problems..

Yeah the magnatec i also have been wondering about it for very long.. But i cant find any comparison for it.. Since it sticks and lubricates the engine during cold start, then isnt it technically better than any fully sync? since it gives lesser wear and tear.. THose oil that use the group IV fully man made base tends to be very very expensive.. And very durable too.. But then not worth it lah to buy so expensive oil for a car not meant for performance.. There is a new Group IV base oil, Eneos Sustina, but its too expensive, 4L cost RM350 if im not mistaken.. But it can last around 15k mileage per service change..

That one if u are using those old cars that come with the copper radiator.. New cars comes with the lousier but cheaper aluminium radiators, but it doesnt get affected by rust easily.. So normal tap water is ok..

the old car will be sold off.. But the old car summons will still be under ur name.. The new owner of the old car wont inherit ur summons.. haha.. There is no problem when registering a new car.. Just that if the police were to do some modus operandi then they will check ur IC and can dig out all ur unpaid summons.

OIC, so i guess no need to pay 1st & worry about it later.

can stick at d trunk also...perhaps under the 'Persona' model batch name...
how big?
length is around the brake lamp length...
n d width is based on d length...based on d ratio of d design i did...i mean d measurement that i use

Okok, dun u pulak angry & negative here.. I had fun looking for the rats & trying to kill them.. When I did managed to kill them, I had this overjoy.. This sense of satisfaction.. Hard to explain.. Hunt a rat then kill it urself.. u'll understand..

If ur steering is held straight & ur car still running to the right, then obviously ur alignment is out. For front wheel drive cars, it's normal for the car to go to the left when ur hands are totally off the steering. Torque steer, they call it. But not to the right.

Check for leakages around the radiator. If ur radiator has not enough water, it's probably leaking somewhere. Also check the overflow tank (or expansion tank) for radiator fluid. Sometimes the water from the radiator overflowed into this tank due to expansion of the radiator coolant from the heat. After the engine cools down the radiator should suck the coolant back in from the expansion tank. If it doesn't, it probably means u're having a pressure loss somewhere between that two, either the tank or the radiator. Could be a loose radiator or expansion tank cap, or may be a puncture somewhere along the pipe (very unlikely) or at the radiator.

Haha.. No need to pay at all. XD.. Dont bother worrying about it also.. hehe..

Not exactly.. For the alignment, even if after they did the adjustments and the car still pull towards 1 side, its because the tire have ady worn out.. So after doing the alignment, the car alignment will tarik habis also.. The best thing that time is to change to new tires for the front wheels and let the rear wheels wear off evenly by adjusting the alignment a bit more skewed against the side that always kena makan..

I said hands off steering mah.. U try to take ur hands off & see.. Even while my PE is new already I realised this.. The pulling becomes more apparent at speeds above 40-50KM/h.. If u're just adjusting the alignment by skewing it against the side that faces higher friction, then u're not solving the problem mah.. U're just burning rubber the other way round..

Ultimate solution? Change to RWD or AWD la..

On a more serious note, adjusting the chamber to 'senget' the tyre a little bit would make the car look awkward.. Not to mention that it'll cause premature wear to the tyres.. Normal alignment can be done to 'straighten' the car by adjusting it to the right a little, but the problem will come back, and it wouldn't take more than a speedbump to kacau ur alignment again..

But I still duno how bad is his car pulling to the side la..

Mine also have this problem.. Then after switching the front tires with the back, the problem still persisted, but only have a very gentle pull.. Then i switched only the front tires between each side.. The problem become very very mild now.. So that means its because of the wear and tear of the tire..

Will cross rotation solved this problem?

Very mild but prob will persist lo.. Haiz.. If u've tried driving the Perdana, the pulling is even worse..

Will, but not a permanent solution.. And it fixes the problem slightly, but it'll still be there..

i went to genting and cameron b4, rev till 5-6k rpm... temperature still at abt "11 clock". no problem at all.

mine also got dis prob...sided to the left but not tat major issue la...
means if i go do alignment + balancing...wil solve dis prob?

U overrev ur engine so much later ur engine block crack before ur radiator leak la.. Touchwood touchwood..

Yeah.. But slightly and it depends on the amount of wear and tear too.. If u happen to have the exact same amount of wear and tear on all 4 tires then u can fully counter the effect lah.. After cross rotation stick to the schedule of switching of tires every 5k km.. Then u wont have problems.. Switching tire fee only cost RM5.. Alignment only RM30.. So Rm35 spend every 5k km.. Not a big deal..

For u Zeng..