yeah its ori i think, wanna search at garagesale 1st if get below that price wanna get from it
are u from alorsetar? haha icity infront of Masjid Zahir kinda boring to me, i think around 7-10 trees only. hehe

Shashinki is selling the MB-D11 at RM499 (Source: http://shashinki.com/shop/nikon-mbd11-mult...ra-p-6592.html)

I bought mine for RM450 from Yannick last time. Need it kinda urgently, therefore didn't survey much for its price and picked from Yannick since he can deliver nearby

Hi,

I'm thinking of getting a sigma 70-200 ll apo ex dg macro f2.8 for my d90.
Will this be a better choice? Suitable for my d90?  Need some advises

Sometime I wonder how you guys manage to splash out a big amount of money just like that

Anyway, where and how much you got your 70-200 VRII?
He's selling quite a lot of stuff but didn't advertise all. Just give him a call and tell him what you need, see if he could work it out

itz been a while since the last time i masuk lyn.... hi, guys... newbie reporting in.... =)

Me heheh XD....RAW files give me more choice to process my photos:P
Same Same here newbie of the newbie reporting in

LOL I have 3 lenses that cover 24mm. 
Actually, even pro ones like the 24mm f/1.4 and 35mm f/1.4 ain't the fastest focusing lens. They still misfocus in low light and when used with non-cross type AF sensors.
You fly all the way to KL just to try out the 24mm f/1.4? 
Agreed. The thin DoF and background blur is very surreal for wide angle. Price also very surreal. 
Like Nike says, Just Do It. 
Hyperfocal distance is a distance when focused at, all objects at distances from half of the hyperfocal distance out to infinity will be acceptably sharp.

Taking 18mm and f/8 as an example, the hyperfocal distance of that lens on a D7000 is 6.7 feel from where you are. If you get the camera to focus 6.7 feet from where you are, subjects that are from 3.35 feet in front of you (half the 6.7 feet) to infinity will be acceptably sharp.

If you're in doubt about DoF with different lenses and at different focal lengths, look it up here;

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
You must be a pro now. 

Thanks; Sort of discover this yesterday; I also notice depending on the environment, although under yellow lighting, using the orange filter, some of the output can be too cool/blue. Quite tough to deal for non-consistent lighting area/environment.

Very poor lighting, at f/2.8, 1/125, need about ISO6400 for proper exposure, the faster shutter is to capture action/moving subject. For group, can lower shutter to compensate for smaller aperture. Flash is a lot better in this case, but the non-consistent lighting is kind of troubling. Moving around, sometimes can get much cooler tone/bluish tint.
Another problem is stronger spotlight/yellow light at certain areas, so the person directly under it get very bright/strong exposure/highlights. Focusing on the person seems higher chance of locking wrongly to the background.

Rumours of the upcoming replacements for the D300s/D700

i have intelligence news that says they are going to announce on the replacement of d300s and d700.
initially, they wanted to shock the world by announcing all 3 replacement (plus the d3s) but... this is from my intelligence as well, thousands of d4 were sink into the bottom of the sea when tsunami hit last march

How to execute the "use the flash as main lighting" method?

Use the flash strong enough to cover the environment lighting?
Yeah, after seeing the successful of D7000. It's more interesting to see how the next gen full frame will perform

Anyway, my friend mentioned this month's Digital Camera magazine got review on D7000 and it's bad? Anyone came across it?

I understand now. This is the reversal of lowering shutter speed to capture ambient light where increasing the shutter speed to relies only on flash light. Well, using this method can easily causing the environment especially the background dim else dark, isn't? In addition, this will requires the flash to pump more power and can easily reach overheating limit.

Background too cool? That would indicate that there is presence of white light source. Not yellow. If you have to shoot in Tungsten WB, avoid white light source !
Aiks... Perhaps you did not really read what I wrote earlier on why you need to use the tungsten gel with yellow lighting. Your main subject's WB from your main lighting (from flash) would be close to background's WB so that it's easier to tune WB in PP if required. Your background would not turn very yellow while subject remains neutral or your subject turns blue while your background is slightly yellow.
What type of action scenes is this that requires 1/125 in a dimly lit environment?

If you have a f/1.4, you would be able to shoot at ISO 1600. 

Don't understand about the skintone comment. Why is it difficult to achieve in that setup? 
Yes, any FX lens can mount on the D90.

The Nikon F mount has never changed since 1959. You can still mount old lenses on your latest Nikon bodies unlike the Canon.
Like Andy214 does not know?  I thought the challenge was to get ambient as well as subject illuminated in the same WB? Not flash as the main light.

What has gels got to do with it? I guess you did not read.
There was never a discussion of have or don't have gel. Of course when you don't have a gel, you make use of the normal speedlight like the way it is supposed to be used. How else is everybody using their speedlights? 
That's correct. That was what I was trying to put forward. For skintones, I never like to put high contrast or high saturation.
Not too sure of your problem but metering can be fooled and the flash will underexpose. Perhaps that is why you see suggestions to use centre weight metering and using full manual flash or full manual exposure to fix more variables and less chances of the camera screwing up.

For me, the advantage of a f/2.8 lens is that I can expose close to the ambient light and let the flash be the fill light.

Morning guys. Anyone here today on holiday?

I'm working too although my state is in holiday. To be exact, I was here (office) since yesterday

Anyway celciuz, again care to share your tips and guide on how to get proper skin tone? I still finds mine yellowish or dull. Probably underexpose...

A answer I need to know, If A D7000 uses a SB900 flash as master unit and CANON flash gun as second unit in sync mode. Is it possible to sync different brands? Got a guy in my college bragging about this . . .

that thing is attached to the lens , so when u turn aperture ring,

the latch will push along the body controller as well



thats how manual aperture works in nikon dxxx/dx

i don't even know its missing there when COD-ing, the seller say will refund the repair charges maximum Rm50 only.
duno need how much to fix also 

Yea, but I prefer the ambient as well as getting other people in the frame/scene to expose well, so it's kind of a challenge especially when the main subject is directly under the strong light.
The main problem is, the camera seems to focus on the background instead, probably due to not enough contrast; I only notice it AFTER, since it was an event with short period of time, no time to review, just keep snapping, but I did keep re-acquire focus every now and then just in case, but seems most of it suffers the same problem.

Yea, that's why I was thinking if there's other ideas/solution.

Single point on the subject as she's the main person for the event.
The other way I know is to focus on somewhere about the same distance, but I find it's may not always be so easy on the field, especially if using wider aperture; plus during the "short" moment, usually we rush to capture it. Already tried re-acquire focus few times, seems all/most locks onto the background instead. Maybe I should try focus on the body which have better contrast and not affected by the strong light