I would suggest that if you are going to carry out the anti-termite treatment for the ground, might as well get them to quote you for the roof truss as well. In my opinion, it is better to let these professionals handle the chemical stuff.
You should be careful what chemicals that you place on your roof truss and it could affect your health...

The oil based are on Class IV which is not bad. The Water based is Class II, which is crazy poison and ban in many country. The worker will do for me.

Last time i ask the so called professional also use Class II for roof. Crazy.

if you are applying them in the roof, make sure that the chemical does not seep down into the room/ living space below. Health hazard...
This is something you do want to have later

Yup, Class 4 is still ok, and furthermore after apply, it will be dry before plaster ceiling.

Ok. If you have considered/ taken the necessary precautions, that it is good

When your roof is burning hot, the chemical will evaporate and release slowly out from the wood. Will the plaster ceiling absorb it and release down to the room? Or it become powder form stick to the wood. But slowly drop down to the ceiling.

You think the roof can reach 100c? oil won't evaporate even at 100c. Smell sure got, any treatment will have smell for few weeks, just like paint.

This is the same method many use to treat wood in some country.

I am toying with the idea of D.I.Y instead of getting a professional.
Something like
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1771159/+20
What do you think.?

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Added on June 26, 2011, 12:47 amI don't mind if the poison is the powerful bordering on dangerous type as long as it is effective.
I am thinking that by the time I move in after renovation, it will around 2-3 months after the treatment, thus hoping by then the smell will go away and I will be left with a super powerful termite protection.
How was your "so called professional" cost and effectiveness,
can use ah??
If ok one, please PM me the contact.

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Added on June 27, 2011, 6:37 pmFinally got my layout plan ported in to JPEG file

Layout Plan - Ground Floor Carport - Original and Renovate




Layout Plan - Ground Floor - Original and Renovate




Layout Plan - 1st Floor - Original and Renovate



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 27 2011, 06:37 PM

Hi there,

Are shifting the Car Porch column / tiang?

RM12k for 1-phase re-wiring? too expensive mate.... If anyone want to rewiring let me know for 1phase, i can do it around RM9k.

For 9k, how many looping are you using per 13 Amps socket? does it come with Earth? brand of MCB you plan to use? How many DB box you give? how many core of Amour cable provide? How many water heater points? how many Astro points, Does it include installation of Lights? down lights?

Just list down the quantity and I will do the math.

Yes. As you can see from the pictures, the columm is narrow.
Going to dismantle the Carporch tiand and build up a wider one.

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 29 2011, 08:42 AM

If your pillar is 1ft 1ft, ask the contractor put 3" pipe inside the pillar. So you don't have to put outer pipe.

I guess you have consulted the Engineers in terms of the structure capacity... If not, maybe engage a Engineer to look into it... I not too sure what does your existing column supporting....

Good idea. thanks

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Added on June 29, 2011, 6:46 pmErr.Contractor only . Not building RC, just roof. No plans to extend the 2nd floor.

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 29 2011, 06:46 PM

If u intend to cast your RWDP into your column, please make sure is uPVC.. Not mistaken is Class E..

You mean car porch roof? If yes, your SC most know the concept of load transfer prior removing the old column...

Called up Ridpest. Rentokill, NLC and Okin on the phone to inquire about getting Termite control



Ridpest - the sales man says that with my current renovation stage, should go for the drilling system. Not recommended to spray the roof truss, very poisonous for resident. (using local chemicals)

Rentokill - the salesman recommend the drilling system and when I inquired about the Termguard Reticulation system, he says it is not suitable as it is costly (+/- 20k) and only can put in before the house is built. (using Bayer)

NLC- The salesman recommend a package, Drilling and Sentricon system together.

Okin - the salesman says that they only have Sentricon System.

All need to look at the house before giving actual quotation.

From the initial discussion, the impression I get is.
- Drilling- Guarantee up to 5 year better to use Bayer.
- Spraying truss - not recommended, termite comes from the ground thus if you kill the queen then the roof termite will die off too.
-Termguard Reticulation system - pricey like hell and the piping need to be set in before house is built.
-Drilling is the cheapest 2k-3k
-Sentricon- 3-5k and yearly maintainence arounf 700 - 1k .




My house has a slight termite infection, not major but need to clear of before I move in....


Any suggestion on which way to go?!?

Like i say earlier, many so call Pro use poison Class 2.

They don't op to use oil based that is Class 4 cause is 10x more expensive. So better go buy yourself ask the indo / contractor to help spray the roof wood.

Since you are renovating, I would suggest that you go for the drilling method plus getting the specialist to get rid of the termites that are present in the house. Better to do now before they expand their "territory" and causing more damage.

give stopest a call. i found them trough lowyat and they did a good job with drilling + bayer agenda. not that costly either.