Trust me pornstar, it's a yes for both points you've asked. You just have to try em to know why

This post has been edited by almostthere: Nov 25 2005, 01:22 PM

The problem is you have copper, a known material that easily cmes into contact with other materials chemically and for closed compact loops, corrosion can bild up easily as the temps between idle and full load remains a conducive temperature for algae growth and deanodising of the aluminium. Car's water cooling does not have copper parts internally AFAIK.

Well we're talking in the long te3rm like say 24/7 at least 1.5 years. It's not for no reason the hardcore kaki's in XS are saying a big NO to mixing and matching. It's pure secondary school cheamistry as at a certain temperature and prolonged submersion of water (which will ionise) will cause deanodising and having elements of aluminium getting into the loop. and when that occurs, trust me, you don't want to know it's effects onto ur copper block. Anyway, seen the machining quality of the Apogee? Ain' good itseems. Frightening in fact

If they don't come into contact submerged with water (which is a good carrier of ions) and there's no other materials in it's loop. Refrigerators use refrigerant gasses which are non-reactant and the exdternal part of the rad is coated in black paint to prevent bare exposure as copper does oxidise easily

Idle 38C and load 41C anyone for ambient temps of 25C?

Dude..last time with the Maze it WAS 42C idle 46C load.....how's that in comparison?

systemcooling's review on the Apogee is out and I can only say one word about it..."owned"

http://www.systemcooling.com/swiftech_apogee-01.html

Lousy temps and shady machining again

Whoahhh...now we're talking 1337 shit now.....come on man...stop fudging about with the fans and start cracking on it

Theoretically yes...it's possible the setup. and the Delrin top is one of the few options available to mod the DDC. I found a few more at an aussie site





http://www.radiical.com.au/products/RadiicalPumpTop.asp

That's why I advised an experimental loop of the following for such a setup

Pump > VGA > RAD > CPU

should be an efficient setup as the GPU will be the one that will have the biggest heat dump since it's gonna be OC'ed liked no one's business (knowing sniper himself)

It is bearing in mind Sniper's requirements as his OC'ing will be more based on GPU rather then CPU based. Forhigher end GPU's being OC'ed, on air we'd be seeing vastly greater temps comparatively (we're talking about 70-80C here) and with sniper using an A64 (Theoretically he's gonna max out temps at about 35-40C at most), CPU cooling won't be so much of a major priority in his case. Hence the experimental suggestion. If I had both the GPU block and a high end GPU to mess with, I'd be glad to try and verify such a theory

Oh myyyy gawdddd......


Please check back a few pages to see what was our answer for the last person who asked a similiar question

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=180866&st=460

This post has been edited by almostthere: Dec 13 2005, 09:37 AM

Did I hear Stacker anyone? Hmmmmm......this is not good for me since I won't be the exclusive one using it for WC'ing anymore. Anyway, been busy trying to get my new RAM's running properly sampai terabai sini. Sorry guys.

Good to hear u back in here hmspower. rig ko amacam? Dah lama takde update bang

Bang prof. amok....tara mau itu Uzairi nyer current WC set ka? Dia mau jual mulah wooo

Very short answer to that based on experience

No, you need a higher head pressure pump to overcome the ressistance in flow.

kawan nirox P2800 punya HMaz 1.25m camtuh jer...tak kuat langsung wo. My Cyber Aqua does 3m and is a world of difference

CPU WaterBlocks

1. Swifteh Storm - 75USD - this is the top performing waterblock currently in retail. It is better suited to more powerful pumps, but still performs well with low flow/power pumps.

2. Swiftech MCW6002/6000 - 45USD - for low power/flow pumps these waterblocks are top performers.. with moderate restriction these waterblocks matched with low power pumps will net decent flow to allow usage of a second waterblock

3. Cooltechnica MP-05 - 50-65USD - a high restriction waterblock with excelent performance. while it does not outperform the Storm per pump power, its lower pricetag makes it an attractive choice.

4. Danger Den TDX - 52USD - while a good waterblock, it is not an optimum choice of waterblock for a high or low power pump system. I list it merely for completeness of the guide.

5. Danger Den RBX - 52USD - Again, a good waterblock, but not worth considering unless you have some desire for a 3 barb waterblock.

6. WhiteWater LE (all coper version) - 44USD - Origionaly designed by Cathar, this 3 barb waterblock performs well, but uses a dated design and is not optimal for maximum performance.

taken from my tips and tricks sticky..pretty accurate analysis

Dude, when ur going triple row, it's best you go for the highest headpressure rated pump as the resistance would be too great for the poor L20 in the first place I assure you.

I LOL'ed



http://www.hardocp.com/article.html?art=OTM5