Just for fun and to show how 1337 a Storm G4 can be, I swapped my Barton M 2600+ (Sad to see it go) with a 2200+ (T-Bird B me thinks). Was pleasantly surprised as how well the Storm performs. At stock voltages (which aren't stable enought for massive loads), idle was 35C and load was 37C, with ambient temps of about 27C. Quite good I must say as previously in a room of ambient 24C, and using a Tt Volcano 12, the best it could do at full rpm and a thouroughly lapped base was 45C idle and 53C load.

This post has been edited by almostthere: Jan 11 2006, 11:48 AM

Moderno: Kalo nak pakai inline setup, aku cadangkan yang ko set camni

nirox 1 --> CPU --> nirox 2 --> rad --> res

Cos you need to overcome the resistance the BIP3 will cause since it's a triple row rad. Even as it is noticed a more consistent and slightly lower temps on my BIP just by changing to a 3m H/max pump you know

hollowbean: Quick, some thorough and detailed pics and data on that modded top since Sniper's been AWOL for a longgg time

This post has been edited by almostthere: Jan 16 2006, 09:22 PM

Firstly, ur connectors too tight isit? If too tight also the water vacumm edi la. I remember kena this problem when reassembling for my friend his Air Besar. Had to unhook one pipe to let water flow thru. Secondly, is the pump really pumping or not? Best way to test is to rendam it inside a pail and flick the switch. If got air pancut then working la

Means kena air lock edi laa fren. Unhook one end of the loop so that water can flow freely then should work out then. And for the eheim pump, see if the threadings allow for ur barbs mounting or not? If cannot then cannot loh. Same for us Nirox users maa. And 1048? Not worth looking at for triple row core usages if mau OC. Bole jalan mmg bole jalan. si sapik78 used to do that on his rig. But better to look at the 1250, D4's or the 50Z if u want serious power. Or check amok's budget pump shoot out review in the stickies.

Sorry wasn't around for a bit but been busy with work. But here's what I've been working on. and this is at full load


Attached thumbnail(s)

Finally, the 1337 users of the 486DX clan has sprung back into action

I belot edi laa dude, ask amok why la. Anyway thanks for the congrats ucai

Yes you can but intelligent placing is a must as you have to ensure your flowrates and head pressure doesn't get shot in the end

Hollowbean, where did you get that reservoir, been always interested in it all this while

Yeah and since it's acrylic, I'm not so worried. Anodised aluminium...tsk tsk tsk tsk.......wouldn't risk my rig on it

Ok Strom G4 users, there's a rev. 2 around the corner from Swiftech. Excerpts taken from XS here: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89745



and confirmed by Gabe of Swiftech

Official announcement of Storm rev. 2 at Swiftnet's site

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/storm-r2.asp

Looks like a G7 top

I can only say is this Tjye. Time to remount it. It's definitely that. I'm clocking 2.4Ghz and temps don't hit past 45C on a hot day

Jye, we need pics. Regardless blurry or not cos we need visual inspection otherwise we can't say for sure. By the way, how does the heatercore feel in your hands? Warm or closer to hot?

Personally, ditch the coolant as it's the coolant that is causing the murkiness in the solution. I've even stopped using coolants in mine and have since required drain and refills every 6 months once.

I'd doubt that. It's definitely your WC setup. Too restictive and some calculations gone wrong actually. Cos my Clawhammer clocking at 9*270 seems to be doing better temps then yours IMHO

Unfortunately my friend, if the pumps meant to be submerged, it is for a good reason as prolonged usage inline would lead to failure. I believe this was explained before in my guide to WC'ing as certain pumps in order to cut cost use motors which generally generate more waste heat cos their cheaper to make. So I'd say try getting someone to purchase for you an Nirox P2800 which still remians in my books the best budget AC pump in terms of performance Vs. heat dump at the moment. Trust me, do not risk using a submerged pump inline especially if you plan to use it for prolonged hours. OP once ran a setup designed by aleck which utilises 2 Nirox P3800's (Which are actually meant for submerged use due to the heat generated) and both went bust after 2 months of usage. Even in an air condtioned showroom

Still by far for me AS5 unless you're going something more extreme of at least peltier's if not phase changers

Depends on your budget as the Eheim, be prepared to fork out over RM100 even for 1048 model. But very reliable and has an higher average HMax and QMax

Nice info you've added there Shah. I'll be sure to include this post into the WC'ing Faq's later on. thumbs up to you

Shah, maybe you should offer this as a service for watercooler's out there not all of us are well learnt about circuitry diagrams and have access to the necessary tools. I'd pay for a unit you plan to produce a few. No need to complete it all just build the relay box and attach the necessary molexes which we can fit up later upon receipt

We'll be awaiting for your preposition as I find it very convienient that my pump will be able to rest too when the comp's off (find unplugging the mains a tiresome affair). If can try to make it similiar to what you're using and a nicer looking bypass switch. Just my 2 cents