25 to 30 sounds ok to me as long you're not thinking on a mass production basis. More of a service to us that's all. The rocker switch I'm thinking off are these:







This post has been edited by almostthere: Apr 25 2006, 04:07 AM

DaBad, a wrd of advice. Try again to have a look at my guide. I believe that is the best advuce I can ever give to a WC'er. The block you use is a classic high Qmax based block which although will yield decent results with the P2800, but will have better results if using a higher specced QMax pump. Moderno's theory regarding the radiator has it's point. The longer the period of time the water remains in the rad, the better the temp reductions are gained. How long and restrictive the rad should be is a very complicated matter to resolve. Bill Adam's has a very good article which I've posted too.

As for the rest, read carefully the abovementioned guide and PM me if any problems or questions

Don't use push pull, a waste of time. Done my experiments already. A good cfm/pressure fan will sort that out. Best choice is those Japan Panaflo H series or kalau tak mampu sangat, NMB's or Delta's

No as it only allows at best a more constant average temp, not lowering of temps. I've tested with 2 delta triblades and that's how I came to taht conclusion. Wanna minimise noise? Go for a pull setup. Sorts it out

This post has been edited by almostthere: Apr 27 2006, 01:08 AM

Nope, same principle itself. You're just ensuring that the airflow is equivalent before and after it passes thru the rad. So overtime as dust accumulates in between the fins, the temps do no deteriorate. 2 fans != improved temps.

Already there and done my support

Shah, the best material to mess with IMHO is still Delrin if you can get a hold of it. Acrylic plain cracks too easily if you're not careful tapping the holes out

shah81 kalo nak rough idea how Delrin looks like, check out the Swiftech Storm's and Apogeee's top. That's delrin

I'm not so keen on coolants. This is because besides an anti-corrosion inhibitor (which is unnecessary unless your running a non all-copper loop), it's just not worth it. The last time I used coolants (STP brand) my tygons got murky, algae built up and temps got very bad indeed

And for what purpose Metalzone? redline water wetter I can understand as it prevents algae build up if used moderately but coolants are not a good idea unless you plan to run the rig 24/7 to ensure steady flow and not allow the coolant to manifest itself on the inner wall of the tygons which are reactive to certain chemicals

Please don't double quote here. If you have anything to add if there's no posts after yours, please use the EDIT button

Answer to question #3 provided

Performance wise if by old school thinking, the 3 barb is a better deisgn as it's a impingement method which is meant to create swirl and improve heat transfer. Disadvantage is that it requires a huge HMax pump and also a very messy setup of Y joints too.


The Storm G4 and above was designed to circumvent the disadvantges of the 3 barb method and in the process has proven to be a very effective solution judging by it's Delta values.

Nope, if what arj means is what I;m guessing is correct, it's those oil tubings which are bluish in colour

Moral of the story: Leak test the buggers before hooking em up. You never know. My old Maze 4 was leaking rat's piss after reassembly

I'm guessing that the DDC's that Corsair gets are of lower standard then what Swifty and DD usually gets

Question is why do you have 2 rads? or isit a 2 row rad to begin with. By right the pump that you have which has been rehashed as the Aquaxtreme 50Z is quite a decent pump to begin with. I'm guessing that you did not read my guide stickied which does state the attributes of the MCW6000 as stated here

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=165070

but for your benefit this time, I'll explain why

in other words if you emphasise more of a silent low restriction based it's the best as it's compromised to be for silent computing. But for temps reduction, I'd dare say a Maze 4 would still outperform it. Check the rest of the blocks stated in the link to have a better understanding and do read my tips and tricks. It's there for a damn good reason

Hey TJyer, long time no see. Well as for your problem, yeah that solution would be a good choice to go. But for the base, I'd rather lap it to mirror finish. It's more satisfying

Dude, those tests aren't really conducted with an A B comparison so I'd take it with a bagful of salt. And 1/4", 3/8" and aluminium? You must be joking me

This post has been edited by almostthere: Aug 30 2006, 10:01 PM

Laing DDC? Not good idea unless u plan to mod the top. Better get the D5. BIP2? Unless you plan to cool a GC with it, pointless, better to go BI GT leh fren.

If you can bear with the air and water flow resistance the BIP has, then go for it. and Laing DDC be careful, there's already 2 cases of dead DDC's in LYN edi. Ask unker ianho about it

if you work out your air flow and head pressure loss over length correctly, my answer is a yes. BI GT is no slouch and is the succesor of BIP for a good reason