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 LYN Proton Wira Club (LYN-PWC) V-XXVI, Come in & let's discuss about Wira

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damone
post Apr 17 2011, 02:22 AM

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BTW bro, where is your shop? I need to do some troubleshooting for the weird sounds from the rear end of my satria, and to rotate the tyres as well. PM me the address and number, will call you when I am coming, prolly next week.
Rascal Stitch
post Apr 17 2011, 02:25 AM

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QUOTE(damone @ Apr 17 2011, 03:22 AM)
BTW bro, where is your shop? I need to do some troubleshooting for the weird sounds from the rear end of my satria, and to rotate the tyres as well. PM me the address and number, will call you when I am coming, prolly next week.
*
u can jus give me a call at 012-2792112 icon_rolleyes.gif
shinjite
post Apr 17 2011, 02:26 AM

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Mine I use mineral first as well after engine rebuild, after 1000km, I use semi synthethic
Rascal Stitch
post Apr 17 2011, 02:28 AM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Apr 17 2011, 03:26 AM)
Mine I use mineral first as well after engine rebuild, after 1000km, I use semi synthethic
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engine oil expensive bro~ tongue.gif
pakai sampai 1.5-2k km first~ laugh.gif laugh.gif
wailup
post Apr 17 2011, 11:43 AM

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im always on mineral 15w-50 pennzoil.
3k++ change oil. brows.gif, foreman says i change too early.. for me, dun care lo. at least the 'sewing machine' stop working, im very pleased liao. rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by wailup: Apr 17 2011, 11:44 AM
SUSkyheng
post Apr 17 2011, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(maxgenesis @ Apr 17 2011, 12:48 AM)
this my personal opinion...

the older the car is better to use mineral or much higher viscosity because the higher the viscosity the much 'thicker' thus it protects more ur engine part. but the higher viscosity, higher FC due to its thickness. if u take car like, i using cycle method which is mineral -> semi -> full syn den cycle again thus i feel d difference everything i change. OR if u really love ur car, use semi n fully but change it every 5k. dont wait till 8k or 10k. like my fren using 5w30 for his nissan sentra, he change everytime 5k or less den tht aft he check the dip stick. so my conclusion fully is much less FC comparing semi den semi less FC comparing mineral. also careful of imitation, maybe u buy a imitation den u get poor result comparing ppl who using same as u. my choice of brand elf, brahdal, motul, Q8, castrol, addinol and royal purple

brand also got effect with same viscosity, eg i cannot use castrol full syn 0w30 but i can use brahdal 5w30, same viscosity 30 but why cant use, no idea maybe bcoz different company different additive..

for spark plug also got effect but i think is bcoz is spark power, to burn the petrol. for me it got effect bcoz on both power and less FC. i think bcoz the fuel burn properlly kua.

petrol, different company different additive so which is much more FC is also effect the age of the car n how u take care car eg wut engine oil u using, wut spark plug, spark plug cable, ATF, air filter, oil filter and etc... i still like esso ron95 comparing other company bcoz it really save FC. my full tank rm 70 can go up to max 480...

in the end, u decide wut is best for ur car.
Well, I stick to ELF or BHP just because I know the distributor and I got a very good price for this fully-syn.....
The visco ratings most of the time are not that accurate, they shall publish the visco after the engine were heated up, say 90°C. At ambient temperature, every oil can get 30 does not means that at 90°C all still the same.
I choose Bosch Super4 all the time not just because it can last longer of 50-60kkm(filled with carbon and still perform like a new plug), cost me rm56. If were to use those original plugs, rm2+ if not mistaken, it can only last 10-15kkm. Compare the same mileage of 60kkm, I saved rm4+ on Super4.....

QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Apr 17 2011, 01:49 AM)
tis 1  i totally agreed ~

rather than many ppl din't realise tat but put lower viscosity  in old 4G9series will actually kill d engine slowly~
cuz i've paid a very good lesson from it but i remembered sum1 used to said work for/in proton claim tat more than 10yrs can use fully like 5w40/3w30 or 10w30 wit no prob at all rolleyes.gif
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Well, at least pour 1 time just to test power... And Mobil1 fully-syn even mad, said can last you for 25kkm before change....

QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Apr 17 2011, 02:05 AM)
yes,i'm waiting for it to run i at 1.5k km 1st b4 putting it good engine to it~  brows.gif  brows.gif
time for smoother rev n safe sum fc ~ tongue.gif
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1500km only change? I change at 1000km the oil are like it is been used for 5000km....
JenHuang
post Apr 17 2011, 02:12 PM

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QUOTE(kyheng @ Apr 16 2011, 02:47 PM)
Since it is a Protong Wira, my offer will be rm9500......
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wow ur price very "HIGH" i sell to 2nd hand car dealer , get more then wat u saying, pls dont joke here , y not u sell me ur wira at Rm1??


Added on April 17, 2011, 2:12 pm
QUOTE(wailup @ Apr 16 2011, 11:25 AM)
upload your protong picture lei..
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boss c here biggrin.gif

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1837446&hl=

This post has been edited by JenHuang: Apr 17 2011, 02:12 PM
maxgenesis
post Apr 17 2011, 03:03 PM

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rm16k sipeh exp... 2nd hand car shop also wont makan so high la...

SUSkyheng
post Apr 17 2011, 03:04 PM

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Because yours are Protong Wira... Tried on Mudah or the star also cannot find a car that matched your name. But when searched on internet, it says it is a Proton imitation. So why I want to pay more for an imitation product?
Rascal Stitch
post Apr 17 2011, 08:05 PM

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QUOTE(kyheng @ Apr 17 2011, 01:05 PM)
Well, I stick to ELF or BHP just because I know the distributor and I got a very good price for this fully-syn.....
The visco ratings most of the time are not that accurate, they shall publish the visco after the engine were heated up, say 90°C. At ambient temperature, every oil can get 30 does not means that at 90°C all still the same.
I choose Bosch Super4 all the time not just because it can last longer of 50-60kkm(filled with carbon and still perform like a new plug), cost me rm56. If were to use those original plugs, rm2+ if not mistaken, it can only last 10-15kkm. Compare the same mileage of 60kkm, I saved rm4+ on Super4.....
Well, at least pour 1 time just to test power... And Mobil1 fully-syn even mad, said can last you for 25kkm before change....
1500km only change? I change at 1000km the oil are like it is been used for 5000km....
*

+ - 500 doesn't matter as long as not 5k km lor~ tongue.gif


QUOTE(maxgenesis @ Apr 17 2011, 04:03 PM)
rm16k sipeh exp... 2nd hand car shop also wont makan so high la...
*

used car only take ard 10-12k max only~
watever modded in to tat car is useless cuz only cosmetic nia~ laugh.gif laugh.gif
SUSkyheng
post Apr 17 2011, 08:31 PM

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QUOTE(JenHuang @ Apr 15 2011, 02:43 PM)
hi all

i wanna sell my protong wira 1.5manual, year 2002, full bodykit.
interested pls let me know

thanks XD
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I repeat for the second time, it is an imitation Proton, rm8500 already too much as to respect the plastics put in... Else I will only pay rm5000.....
TSafosz
post Apr 17 2011, 08:35 PM

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QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Apr 17 2011, 01:41 AM)
icon_idea.gif  icon_idea.gif  notworthy.gif
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What is this ? Iklan kah ?

QUOTE(damone @ Apr 17 2011, 01:55 AM)
Well at least I learn something new. But we are in a wira thread. And mostly IMHO, semi synth is good enough already. Unless you are running Mivec/GSR/Evo.

Eh, that barking dog dissapear already?

P/S: I doubt Motul mineral is the same as Shell Helix mineral right?
*
Bakar line ? Fire stone ?

QUOTE(JenHuang @ Apr 17 2011, 02:12 PM)
wow ur price very "HIGH" i sell to 2nd hand car dealer , get more then wat u saying, pls dont joke here , y not u sell me ur wira at Rm1??


Added on April 17, 2011, 2:12 pm
boss c here  biggrin.gif

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1837446&hl=
*
Aisey taiko, letting go your monster already ? Enough playing around with it eh ?
JenHuang
post Apr 18 2011, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(maxgenesis @ Apr 17 2011, 03:03 PM)
rm16k sipeh exp... 2nd hand car shop also wont makan so high la...
*
were got expensive ne? u check motortrader, 2001 M rm15k, selling price. now i selling myself, y i must sell what dealer price?? if like tat wat for i sell myself??


Added on April 18, 2011, 12:44 am
QUOTE(afosz @ Apr 17 2011, 08:35 PM)
What is this ? Iklan kah ?
Bakar line ? Fire stone ?
Aisey taiko, letting go your monster already ? Enough playing around with it eh ?
*
hehe yeah, bored d, btw mine chicken only not monster =) btw hw are u ??

This post has been edited by JenHuang: Apr 18 2011, 12:44 AM
lixc
post Apr 18 2011, 07:22 AM

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QUOTE(Arkaine @ Apr 16 2011, 04:42 PM)
I used yokohama NS60A for 4 years and 10 months blush.gif
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wah, 4yrs and 10 months?
Thanks for sharing, a few questions as data collection:
--> daily start engine how many times?
--> normal average travel after started engine is how many KM?
--> average travel speed (KM/h) is?
--> any VS, audio HUGE cap or other special treatment to the battery?
--> original distributor?
--> wheel size normal (rim + tyre)?
--> using the car at normal area, right? not like cameron highland or cold area?
--> aircond always on?
--> any mod or non-ori accessories on electric side?

damone
post Apr 18 2011, 09:29 AM

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QUOTE(kyheng @ Apr 17 2011, 08:31 PM)
I repeat for the second time, it is an imitation Proton, rm8500 already too much as to respect the plastics put in... Else I will only pay rm5000.....
*
How do you get an immitation Proton?

Besides your car knowledge, your england very the powderful la.

*respect* *tabik spring*
Lineage
post Apr 18 2011, 09:47 AM

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Hi guys,

Recently I found out my Wira is not safe..

The situation is like this..When I emergency brake, my brake able to stop the tyres rolling..but the car is still moving..is it because of my tyres worn out and need to replace soon?

Mod brake system is it consider illegal? can I add in ABS? laugh.gif
shinjite
post Apr 18 2011, 09:53 AM

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What you witness was tyre lock, it is normal
You have to pump the brakes to avoid the tyres from locking, however if it is too late (the situation doesn't favor you), even a car with ABS won't be able to stop in time
Lineage
post Apr 18 2011, 09:58 AM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Apr 18 2011, 09:53 AM)
What you witness was tyre lock, it is normal
You have to pump the brakes to avoid the tyres from locking, however if it is too late (the situation doesn't favor you), even a car with ABS won't be able to stop in time
*
So pumping the brakes is the only way to stop the car effectively? hmm.gif
shinjite
post Apr 18 2011, 10:03 AM

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Of course, you keep on holding on the brakes, your tyres will lock and you can't control the car, it will still go forward due to the momentum

If you let go and repump your brakes, your tyres won't be locked anymore and you can get your control back. For ABS cars, they prevent you from locking the tyres so that you have enough time to swerve the car to avoid an accident. What if you have no choice but to remain in that lane with no where to swerve? A car with ABS won't be able to stop you from hitting the car in front too if it is too late smile.gif

This post has been edited by shinjite: Apr 18 2011, 10:05 AM
Lineage
post Apr 18 2011, 10:07 AM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Apr 18 2011, 10:03 AM)
Of course, you keep on holding on the brakes, your tyres will lock and you can't control the car, it will still go forward due to the momentum

If you let go and repump your brakes, your tyres won't be locked anymore and you can get your control back. For ABS cars, they prevent you from locking the tyres so that you have enough time to swerve the car to avoid an accident. What if you have no choice but to remain in that lane with no where to swerve? A car with ABS won't be able to stop you from hitting the car in front too if it is too late smile.gif
*
Oh..maybe I too nervous, so can't think of anything..plus the recent accident..make me scared already.. doh.gif

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