haha, it's due to our beloved country punya government policy... if no car tax, see whether will have many ppl driving it or not...

i nvr tried different one, but theoretically if the hole diameter and length are the same then performance should be same, just reliability and durability different.
And different material and different thickness will give you different sound... too many variance...

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Added on March 17, 2011, 6:50 ami dun think normal shop will give catalytic converter... normally the converter itself will cost more than Rm600, alone...
haven't knew anyone so nice to the environment yet, to change catalytic converter... most is remove it and change to normal bullet... this is where the power/torque gain come from, due to easier exhaust flow...



By the way, hotbits exhaust increased price? only extractor increase price or mid/rear also increase? it's a bit too much for RM580 for the extractor... luckily my order was done before CNY...
i still seeing the old price in speedworks website wor...

This post has been edited by lixc: Mar 17 2011, 06:54 AM

haha, i think the problem is dunno what to do with it already... sell also no price, wanna mod it further also need to think twice due to old age and limited budget...

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Added on March 20, 2011, 4:16 pmhaven't do it yet, but a few shops at PG quoted ~1.xk for the roof work (some claim change whole thing and with better glue, some i saw is take out inner "ceiling" and grind from both side then repair)... but all these quotations are WITHOUT painting... the painting cost nowadays is crazy...
summary is roof new one plus a whole body repaint would cost around 3k...

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Added on March 20, 2011, 4:17 pmemm, from the experience of owning a cacat one, i would strongly recommend DO NOT get the carburetor and/or 3-speed auto ones...

This post has been edited by lixc: Mar 20 2011, 04:17 PM

i just clicked on the links... looks like both the options that u narrowed down are fall right into my DO NOT list... sigh...
the carb + 3-speed auto is a long-term pocket/wallet burner... it has high FC... carb is hard to tuned to best optimum condition, and stick there... 3-speed auto is like lagging a leg when wanna run...
If auto is a must for you, and with limited budget, i would recommend hunting for the 4-speed auto ones...

For documentation wise ah, do we need to goto JPJ and/or Puspakom?
or actually dun care if wont sell the car?

errr, if i am not wrong (i know it is true for 1995 ones), all the 1.5L Wira's auto are 3-speed, if it is not mod by the owner... then all the 1.6L or 1.8L auto are 4-speed ones...

is that indication of low water level or overheat temperature? manual booklet should have it, if u still keep tat...

did the foreman/mechanic plug back the cable back to the lower part of engine? I just saw mine not plug in after overhaul...

depends on how much $$ u wanna spend on it...
If absorber already cacat (leaked), then can change together with #4 to gas ones (but i would just recommend 1.5 inches or 2 inches; 3 inches is too much, ur car will like frog).
I solved mine with just changing to gas + 1.5 inches rubber. The gas absorber was RM83 one pair (Sachs). Rubber was RM20.

actually if dun mind the ugliness, can get any analog multimeter that sell in electronic shops, then hook up the 2 wires to the cigarette port there...

RM60 something...

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Added on April 13, 2011, 6:42 amBridgestone AR10?

This post has been edited by lixc: Apr 13 2011, 06:42 AM

too much carbon? how about changing down 1 level of heat range?

new side topic... BATTERY...

Which brand non-MF battery the best (in terms of price, life span, performance) for normal Wira?
No amp, no VS, no special makan-electric thingy...
- Bosch
- Varta
- Yuasa
- Yokohama
- Leko
- others?

I am using Bosch for >2 years, measured at tyre shop to be weak 6 months ago, i think going to be gone case soon...
Any recommendation? Or experience?

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Added on April 16, 2011, 4:04 pm additional notes: it's Wira 1.5L, year 1995...

This post has been edited by lixc: Apr 16 2011, 04:04 PM

i just checked, i am using NS40AS (40AH), dated 2.5 years. Sometimes hard to start (need click 2 to 3 times), sometimes okay...
Alternator cable any idea cost how much? Got specific brand/model recommendation? I not sure i got change before or not... hahaha...

wah, 4yrs and 10 months?
Thanks for sharing, a few questions as data collection:
--> daily start engine how many times?
--> normal average travel after started engine is how many KM?
--> average travel speed (KM/h) is?
--> any VS, audio HUGE cap or other special treatment to the battery?
--> original distributor?
--> wheel size normal (rim + tyre)?
--> using the car at normal area, right? not like cameron highland or cold area?
--> aircond always on?
--> any mod or non-ori accessories on electric side?

emmm, i agree with others that need to keep a good distance (something like the 2 second theory at least)...
then from mechanical side, should always keep the stuffs (tyre, brake pad, brake fluid, hampalang...) at good working condition...

Back in 1995, the Protong Wira was advertised with "ABS" for 1.5L (which unfortunately my dad bought), and you know what, the "ABS" that Protong written stands for "Advanced Braking System", not "Antilock Braking System".... hahaha... so if you are so lucky to get Protong Wira's "ABS" then need to figure out how to improve the car braking...
If money no problem, then surely change to better suspension (at least absorbers), brake fluid (DOT4), brake pads (better ones), brake hose (like Pro RS, but i haven't change yet), rear disc brake (if 1.5L, rear is drum, but i haven't change yet), tyre with better grip, have good tyre alignment, and then most importantly --> keep the distance from those "suspicious" cars (front and including side ones)...

anyway, talk is always easier than do... so just wish you luck... i need some for myself as well...

i am interested too... any cheap cheap ones at penang?

It's call T10...
Something like this --> http://www.12v.com.my/T10-W5W-Blue-Vision-...d=57&doit=order

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Added on April 29, 2011, 7:06 amno offend but any taiko used this before can share experience/user review?
i am skeptical on a few things:
- will the cover (normally plastic), get yellow and blur very fast?
- the beam focusing is good or not? normally seen on road are those like light beam is like no focus point (bad to other road users eye)...

This post has been edited by lixc: Apr 29 2011, 07:06 AM

emm, couples of points to check:
- how many load you have on car (how many ppl)?
- which brand petrol u using? (not sure only me or wat, Shell is having bad FC on my cars)
- when do top overhaul, got change piston ring? got check the ring to cylinder wall clearance? would it be cylinder wall wear off or piston ring wear off causing bad compression rate?
- try full service or overhaul the carburetor. This is the thing i hate most of my wira 1995 auto (besides the 3-speed auto tranny).
- tyre pressure okay? >210 psi?
- tyre alignment okay?
- try don't put any useless stuff/load on the car (like heavy stuff which u dun use everyday)
- do u idling a lot (like waiting for ppl, besides the usual traffic jam)?
- aircond compressor working okay? it got drag the engine or not...

my car is having as bad FC as urs too, even after full overhaul. Same year car, but it's auto. I am driving less than 10km/day, and i step on the accelerator and brake like siao lang, so expected the bad FC.

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Added on April 30, 2011, 2:34 pmShould say W5W...
can refer to here --> http://www.lighting.philips.com/in_en/cons...ighting&lang=en



This post has been edited by lixc: Apr 30 2011, 02:34 PM

hmmm... suggest full-service or overhaul the carburetor la... details i do not know, but generally is the mechanic will check which parts of the carburetor faulty then change it lor...
second thing is try change petrol lor. I have experience of very bad FC with Shell on MyVi (~23cents/km vs other brands' ~16 or ~17/km, for every tank; i tried for a lot of tanks), use Caltex/new Petronas/Esso.