nice 1

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Added on April 16, 2011, 11:37 pmwhen u both wan meet up, tell me... at least at mamak bcoz can order food...

This post has been edited by maxgenesis: Apr 16 2011, 11:37 PM

Kyheng is another johnkor??

^Coward, my questions cannot answer but still want to bark around?

Fine to answer then, let me ask. What do you use to monitor your revs? Installed SAFC? Or just by reading your tachometer?

RON 95 or 97, the difference is just in the ron ratings and the additives. I am not sure what car you use, but a car's ECU might take 2 days to actually adjust to the new petrol RON.

It is just the matter of the ECU advancing or retarding the ignition based on the petrol that you use. Different cars will always react differently to different petrol brands. There is no such thing as a one petrol brand that suits all. It's always up to the matter of personal choice and how your own car reacts to the petrol.

Sprak plugs, well, to be honest, in a stock standard car, has very minimal effect. People might say that it is smoother, but doesn't changing to new spark plugs will always make the engine smoother?

Unless your engine has been modified internally, together with the improved fuelling system upgraded, those performance spark plugs will usually give very minimal benefits. People will buy Irridium plugs because that last longer than normal copper plugs. It also boils down to personal preferences.

Those with sufficient knowledge of cars will know the best bang for buck modifications for the car, and not to waste money on hyped up gadgets.

I admit, I was once a noob, and fallen under such advertising schemes where a simple device can provide up to 20% increase in power, and costs less than RM200.

We all start from somewhere, always a noob, but at least I don't go around LYN giving fake advices to people. I may lurk, but I learn.

I speak up only when someone gives out false advice.

P/S: Do you work in Wai Heng/ Wei Yip/ Brothers by any chance? #justsaying.

Ok then, now I'm making some false ads, go buy your self a fully-syn oil and test in your car. After all, you will only lose rm1++ if I'm mislead you...
Still, I like people that have not much knowledge and trying to be a hero by simply insult others.
8 years ago I never tried fully-syn oil, so can't tell. But after overhaul I got the chance to test and this is the simple review which I would like to share among Wira owners.

Aiya don't gaduh lah, your car your money you happy with your car the other party happy with their car, then settle.

+1 again.... the subject which best for ur car too broad... is personal choice in the end

You have already overhauled, means new seals and new gasket. Obviously you can use fully synt oil. Hell, you can even go for 0w-40 if you want.

But when you tell others that fully is better, without considering that their engines are older, or haven't gone through overhauling process, that is false advertising.

Do you know what happens when you suddenly switch from a 20w-50 mineral oil to a fully synth oil?On an old engine, without new seals, new gasket. Answer that for me will ya?

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Added on April 17, 2011, 12:33 amNot trying to cari gaduh mar. Saja troll around the thread.

Manatau he terasa so much, and go so low to reside to name calling.

Tak panas ka?



This post has been edited by damone: Apr 17 2011, 12:33 AM

this my personal opinion...

the older the car is better to use mineral or much higher viscosity because the higher the viscosity the much 'thicker' thus it protects more ur engine part. but the higher viscosity, higher FC due to its thickness. if u take car like, i using cycle method which is mineral -> semi -> full syn den cycle again thus i feel d difference everything i change. OR if u really love ur car, use semi n fully but change it every 5k. dont wait till 8k or 10k. like my fren using 5w30 for his nissan sentra, he change everytime 5k or less den tht aft he check the dip stick. so my conclusion fully is much less FC comparing semi den semi less FC comparing mineral. also careful of imitation, maybe u buy a imitation den u get poor result comparing ppl who using same as u. my choice of brand elf, brahdal, motul, Q8, castrol, addinol and royal purple

brand also got effect with same viscosity, eg i cannot use castrol full syn 0w30 but i can use brahdal 5w30, same viscosity 30 but why cant use, no idea maybe bcoz different company different additive..

for spark plug also got effect but i think is bcoz is spark power, to burn the petrol. for me it got effect bcoz on both power and less FC. i think bcoz the fuel burn properlly kua.

petrol, different company different additive so which is much more FC is also effect the age of the car n how u take care car eg wut engine oil u using, wut spark plug, spark plug cable, ATF, air filter, oil filter and etc... i still like esso ron95 comparing other company bcoz it really save FC. my full tank rm 70 can go up to max 480...

in the end, u decide wut is best for ur car.

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Added on April 17, 2011, 12:52 ambro maybe is something the words that u using... eg i ask about something about sound proof, i ask did is really ur car sound proof...
i think u can use sound proof, rather use the word sound reduction.
same like those ppl advertising sound proof mat, i think sound reduction mat.
bcoz i dont think u can really sound proof except u really seal kau2 the car interior just like toyota camry. that 1 i say is really sound proof..

This post has been edited by maxgenesis: Apr 17 2011, 12:52 AM

There was a comparison on the spark plug materials made once. No Source at the moment though, where Irridium is less conductive than copper itself. So technically, irridium will produce a less powerful spark. But then again all new spark plugs, including standard copper, when new will make the engine run smoother.

Fully synth is mainly used in newer engine cars, because they usually have variable valves, which require a low viscosity oil to operate optimally. In normal 4G13/15 engines with no varibale valves, semi synth should be adequate. Although you can go fully synth if your wallet permits it. Engine health is also a priority, if you have a leaky gasket, and using light oils, will make the leak even worse.

The best so far is proper care of engine with regular oil change. Just make a CAI, use stock filter, and a full exhaust system setup will be just nice for a daily ride.

I mod my ride not to smoke other people, but for the satisfaction of it. And I do hope that newbies can actually learn more from proper advise, not crap ones. I went through that road before, and wasted alot of money on useless mods.

It is always a chain reaction where one person will give the wrong advice and that wrong knowledge will get passed on to other newbies.

yet again is depend on personal opinion. in the end research can use just as reference bcoz is a personal reference and also how accurate was d research? technology keep on updating, those research might cannot be use due to out-date.
i been using ngk power plus quite long and seriously i feel is much better den normal stock spark plug. i wan try iradium but the price wise dont allow me bcoz i feel it exp although it can use for vry long.
yes fully syn is used on newer japanese car.. how about bwm and mercedes, their viscosity is XXw50 or XXw60 man. how u going to explain tht?

This post has been edited by maxgenesis: Apr 17 2011, 01:19 AM

Erm, explain what bro?

AFAIK all mercs and BMWs use fully synth/multigrade also. Correct me if I am wrong.

The viscosity would be the firt 2 digits, not the end.

and not correct that all mercs and bmw using fully synth n multi grade.... i saw myself at sepang ppl racing they using motul mineral....!!

lolx... UR WRONG.... the viscosity is based on the 2 digit behind... the front 2 digit is for winter... eg 5wXX mean during winter 5 Celsius u also can start ur car... i also based on research and article... but it doesnt apply to equator country bcoz no matter wut our tempreture wont go lower den 20 to 10 celcius...

tis 1 i totally agreed ~

rather than many ppl din't realise tat but put lower viscosity in old 4G9series will actually kill d engine slowly~
cuz i've paid a very good lesson from it but i remembered sum1 used to said work for/in proton claim tat more than 10yrs can use fully like 5w40/3w30 or 10w30 wit no prob at all

Well at least I learn something new. But we are in a wira thread. And mostly IMHO, semi synth is good enough already. Unless you are running Mivec/GSR/Evo.

Eh, that barking dog dissapear already?

P/S: I doubt Motul mineral is the same as Shell Helix mineral right?

This post has been edited by damone: Apr 17 2011, 01:56 AM

be4 i overhaul i only use 15w50 due to my car edi so old~
now tat i've jus rebuilt my engine already i can jus put in 10w30 as my mileage 3months is less than 5k km per month

d motul mineral got 10w40 which is really good but quite pricey~

Some people I know after overhauling or PnP, they will use mineral oil first, then drain it out after 2000 km. After that they will use their choice of engine oil after that.

The name Motul itself will justify the pricetag.

yes,i'm waiting for it to run i at 1.5k km 1st b4 putting it good engine to it~
time for smoother rev n safe sum fc ~