I got scratches on my tiles during renovation, what is the best DIY to remove the scratches?
60T001A – POLISHED PORCELAIN BONE WHITE
How deep is the scratch? The porcelain white one is only on surface. Inside still clay or so called non-homogeneous tile. Deep until you see different base color then need to replace the tile.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Cheras , Bandar Sungai Long
QUOTE(Zot @ Jan 15 2018, 09:32 AM)
How deep is the scratch? The porcelain white one is only on surface. Inside still clay or so called non-homogeneous tile. Deep until you see different base color then need to replace the tile.
just surface. If there is sunlight, then can see the lines
I got scratches on my tiles during renovation, what is the best DIY to remove the scratches?
60T001A – POLISHED PORCELAIN BONE WHITE
Fine polish like for stainless steel or even car polish will be just fine. Just get any polish compound for mirror finish surface. Then it will be just hard work to rub until shine. If you have orbital polishing tool, then it is really easy
yes already have the stuff (minus those adhesive/concrete), but need to remove the broken tiles and also cut some tiles to fit the edges, and areas with power plugs. so will still need a skilled worker so the tiles are properly cut and even with the existing tiles.
it's only less than 20 tiles to work on so i think most contractors are not interested.
also looking for plumber to replace a drain cover (whole piece) in the bathroom and do minor waterproofing on the area.
Fine polish like for stainless steel or even car polish will be just fine. Just get any polish compound for mirror finish surface. Then it will be just hard work to rub until shine. If you have orbital polishing tool, then it is really easy
what about matte tiles? how to restore the matte without spraying matte coat (which will come off easily on floor).
what about matte tiles? how to restore the matte without spraying matte coat (which will come off easily on floor).
I don't think the matte tile are sprayed with matte paint. The tile are glazed on its surface. The polished glazed will have glossy surface and the non-polished one will have matte surface. Movement on matte tile surface gradually smoothen the surface and make it more shiny. No way to reverse that unless sandblasting it.
yes already have the stuff (minus those adhesive/concrete), but need to remove the broken tiles and also cut some tiles to fit the edges, and areas with power plugs. so will still need a skilled worker so the tiles are properly cut and even with the existing tiles.
it's only less than 20 tiles to work on so i think most contractors are not interested.
also looking for plumber to replace a drain cover (whole piece) in the bathroom and do minor waterproofing on the area.
Unless you have power tool it is not difficult to do the job. One option is just to find any worker doing tiling job at construction site and offer an off day job, but he need to have access to some tooling as well.
Unless you have power tool it is not difficult to do the job. One option is just to find any worker doing tiling job at construction site and offer an off day job, but he need to have access to some tooling as well.
power tools i only have Bosch 24-DRE hammer drill.
i think to do proper need skill. they use cement to stick the tiles or got use special glue?
the surface have to prepare until smooth & even and need to do fast before the cement dries. any uneven surface will result tiles not even with the rest.
cutting the tiles to fit edges, for power plugs & switches requires precision. not some general worker can handle.
This post has been edited by advocado: Jan 15 2018, 09:26 PM
power tools i only have Bosch 24-DRE hammer drill.
i think to do proper need skill. they use cement to stick the tiles or got use special glue?
the surface have to prepare until smooth & even and need to do fast before the cement dries. any uneven surface will result tiles not even with the rest.
cutting the tiles to fit edges, for power plugs & switches requires precision. not some general worker can handle.
The surface does not need to be perfectly smooth but provide adequate cement thickness. You power tool can help in flattening the floor using flat chisel. Tiling floor is not hard but wall you need to put space to keep the gap between tiles even. Probably some DIY shop sell those plastic spacer. Some people just use match stick, unless it is not same spacing with others
The cement does not dry that fast. Keep mixing it once in a while will keep it soft. You need proper trowel to apply it.
You can use water level tool or a straight 1m 2x2 wood plank to level the tile with adjacent one.
The only problem is you need a way to cut tile. Not worth in investing on one that you probably use once You can also use/need power grinder. The cut angle no need to be so perfect as the switch or socket panel will cover the edge of tiles anyway.
The surface does not need to be perfectly smooth but provide adequate cement thickness. You power tool can help in flattening the floor using flat chisel. Tiling floor is not hard but wall you need to put space to keep the gap between tiles even. Probably some DIY shop sell those plastic spacer. Some people just use match stick, unless it is not same spacing with others
The cement does not dry that fast. Keep mixing it once in a while will keep it soft. You need proper trowel to apply it.
You can use water level tool or a straight 1m 2x2 wood plank to level the tile with adjacent one.
The only problem is you need a way to cut tile. Not worth in investing on one that you probably use once You can also use/need power grinder. The cut angle no need to be so perfect as the switch or socket panel will cover the edge of tiles anyway.
the switch & socket yes. but to cut the smaller tiles to fit the edges requires precision since there's nothing to cover them.
anyway what is the recommended mixture for Sika Cement? what is the best way to mix? agak agak or use a scale & water measurement pale?
and if i cement back hacked wall that tiles will sit on, how much depth gap between the existing tile surface & new cement filling it's a 3cm line across few tiles?
This post has been edited by advocado: Jan 16 2018, 08:46 AM
the switch & socket yes. but to cut the smaller tiles to fit the edges requires precision since there's nothing to cover them.
anyway what is the recommended mixture for Sika Cement? what is the best way to mix? agak agak or use a scale & water measurement pale?
and if i cement back hacked wall that tiles will sit on, how much depth gap between the existing tile surface & new cement filling it's a 3cm line across few tiles?
To cut straight you need this but it will be your white elephant
Contractor use just normal cement but using the adhesive meant for tile will be much better. Mixing it would be just like you are mixing cement. Too dry hard to apply. Too watery will be hard to hold tile even. No instruction there? You can also buy premix but it is more costly for the cost of water
Contractor use just normal cement but using the adhesive meant for tile will be much better. Mixing it would be just like you are mixing cement. Too dry hard to apply. Too watery will be hard to hold tile even. No instruction there? You can also buy premix but it is more costly for the cost of water
what if tile is longer then 40cm? the cutter is 40cm max. also to cut hole for socket requires another tool right?
so what is the cement & water ratio normally?
when filling in hacked walls so tiles will sit on how much dept gap do we leave between the tile & cement?
to remove old tiles & install new tiles, how deep do we need to hack off the cement behind it?
normally how long it takes a tile installer to remove existing damaged tiles and install new tiles? if you say the cement needs to be thick, i think the removing part will take more time as they need to hack off the cement then reapply.
what if tile is longer then 40cm? the cutter is 40cm max. also to cut hole for socket requires another tool right?
so what is the cement & water ratio normally?
when filling in hacked walls so tiles will sit on how much dept gap do we leave between the tile & cement?
to remove old tiles & install new tiles, how deep do we need to hack off the cement behind it?
normally how long it takes a tile installer to remove existing damaged tiles and install new tiles? if you say the cement needs to be thick, i think the removing part will take more time as they need to hack off the cement then reapply.
Longer tile need longer cutter and need more money This tile cutter looks simple yet expensive
Mix ratio? Maybe refer the instruction on the adhesive? It is probably different. Remember, I'm not a contractor but work in office I learn from observation, experience and also reference online
Normally, contractor will not make hole in the center of the tile but rather cut straight to the center of the hole position and then cut a square or grind to make half-hole on each side. Put the tile into place will form a hole (so to speak) However, if you have power tool, it is not hard to make hole.
When you remove old tile by hacking, you will see how think the plaster is. It is actually the thickness of wall plaster. Sometime, brick laying is not perfect. So, to flattened the wall, some place have thicker plaster and some places have thinner plaster. There is not correct thickness but to thick the plaster, the cement tend to drop and fell off. Hard to work. Therefore, for very think plaster, they will do it twice but this is almost never happen.
When removing floor tile, the cement that is used during tiling was set on the hardened cement floor. So, during removing of tiles, the plaster cement will peel off separately, just like wall plaster. So, not hard to remove especially using power tool. Using hammer and chisel
but you mention the cement need to hack, so how to prevent damage on the adjacent tiles and also the cement behind the adjacent tiles?
Just cut through the grout and the tile adhesive layer. So, when you hack it will snap break along the cutting line and will not affect adjacent tile for sure
Just cut through the grout and the tile adhesive layer. So, when you hack it will snap break along the cutting line and will not affect adjacent tile for sure
normally how thick is the plaster cement for tiles. because i cut enough dept to conceal some wiring with conduit. i worry it's not deep enough for the tile cement to be thick enough to stick even though it's just a 3cm line across some tiles. the depth is enough to conceal to the original plaster cement level but you say tile cement needs certain thickness. or if just 1 line across that area can use less tiles cement?
Jan 15 2018, 09:29 AM
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You can also use/need power grinder. The cut angle no need to be so perfect as the switch or socket panel will cover the edge of tiles anyway.
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