I got scratches on my tiles during renovation, what is the best DIY to remove the scratches?
60T001A – POLISHED PORCELAIN BONE WHITE
How deep is the scratch? The porcelain white one is only on surface. Inside still clay or so called non-homogeneous tile. Deep until you see different base color then need to replace the tile.
I got scratches on my tiles during renovation, what is the best DIY to remove the scratches?
60T001A – POLISHED PORCELAIN BONE WHITE
Fine polish like for stainless steel or even car polish will be just fine. Just get any polish compound for mirror finish surface. Then it will be just hard work to rub until shine. If you have orbital polishing tool, then it is really easy
what about matte tiles? how to restore the matte without spraying matte coat (which will come off easily on floor).
I don't think the matte tile are sprayed with matte paint. The tile are glazed on its surface. The polished glazed will have glossy surface and the non-polished one will have matte surface. Movement on matte tile surface gradually smoothen the surface and make it more shiny. No way to reverse that unless sandblasting it.
yes already have the stuff (minus those adhesive/concrete), but need to remove the broken tiles and also cut some tiles to fit the edges, and areas with power plugs. so will still need a skilled worker so the tiles are properly cut and even with the existing tiles.
it's only less than 20 tiles to work on so i think most contractors are not interested.
also looking for plumber to replace a drain cover (whole piece) in the bathroom and do minor waterproofing on the area.
Unless you have power tool it is not difficult to do the job. One option is just to find any worker doing tiling job at construction site and offer an off day job, but he need to have access to some tooling as well.
power tools i only have Bosch 24-DRE hammer drill.
i think to do proper need skill. they use cement to stick the tiles or got use special glue?
the surface have to prepare until smooth & even and need to do fast before the cement dries. any uneven surface will result tiles not even with the rest.
cutting the tiles to fit edges, for power plugs & switches requires precision. not some general worker can handle.
The surface does not need to be perfectly smooth but provide adequate cement thickness. You power tool can help in flattening the floor using flat chisel. Tiling floor is not hard but wall you need to put space to keep the gap between tiles even. Probably some DIY shop sell those plastic spacer. Some people just use match stick, unless it is not same spacing with others
The cement does not dry that fast. Keep mixing it once in a while will keep it soft. You need proper trowel to apply it.
You can use water level tool or a straight 1m 2x2 wood plank to level the tile with adjacent one.
The only problem is you need a way to cut tile. Not worth in investing on one that you probably use once You can also use/need power grinder. The cut angle no need to be so perfect as the switch or socket panel will cover the edge of tiles anyway.
the switch & socket yes. but to cut the smaller tiles to fit the edges requires precision since there's nothing to cover them.
anyway what is the recommended mixture for Sika Cement? what is the best way to mix? agak agak or use a scale & water measurement pale?
and if i cement back hacked wall that tiles will sit on, how much depth gap between the existing tile surface & new cement filling it's a 3cm line across few tiles?
To cut straight you need this but it will be your white elephant
Contractor use just normal cement but using the adhesive meant for tile will be much better. Mixing it would be just like you are mixing cement. Too dry hard to apply. Too watery will be hard to hold tile even. No instruction there? You can also buy premix but it is more costly for the cost of water
what if tile is longer then 40cm? the cutter is 40cm max. also to cut hole for socket requires another tool right?
so what is the cement & water ratio normally?
when filling in hacked walls so tiles will sit on how much dept gap do we leave between the tile & cement?
to remove old tiles & install new tiles, how deep do we need to hack off the cement behind it?
normally how long it takes a tile installer to remove existing damaged tiles and install new tiles? if you say the cement needs to be thick, i think the removing part will take more time as they need to hack off the cement then reapply.
Longer tile need longer cutter and need more money This tile cutter looks simple yet expensive
Mix ratio? Maybe refer the instruction on the adhesive? It is probably different. Remember, I'm not a contractor but work in office I learn from observation, experience and also reference online
Normally, contractor will not make hole in the center of the tile but rather cut straight to the center of the hole position and then cut a square or grind to make half-hole on each side. Put the tile into place will form a hole (so to speak) However, if you have power tool, it is not hard to make hole.
When you remove old tile by hacking, you will see how think the plaster is. It is actually the thickness of wall plaster. Sometime, brick laying is not perfect. So, to flattened the wall, some place have thicker plaster and some places have thinner plaster. There is not correct thickness but to thick the plaster, the cement tend to drop and fell off. Hard to work. Therefore, for very think plaster, they will do it twice but this is almost never happen.
When removing floor tile, the cement that is used during tiling was set on the hardened cement floor. So, during removing of tiles, the plaster cement will peel off separately, just like wall plaster. So, not hard to remove especially using power tool. Using hammer and chisel
but you mention the cement need to hack, so how to prevent damage on the adjacent tiles and also the cement behind the adjacent tiles?
Just cut through the grout and the tile adhesive layer. So, when you hack it will snap break along the cutting line and will not affect adjacent tile for sure
normally how thick is the plaster cement for tiles. because i cut enough dept to conceal some wiring with conduit. i worry it's not deep enough for the tile cement to be thick enough to stick even though it's just a 3cm line across some tiles. the depth is enough to conceal to the original plaster cement level but you say tile cement needs certain thickness. or if just 1 line across that area can use less tiles cement?
Did I mentioned certain thickness? I don't think so. If you want to just put tile with no cement, it will be just fine. You can even use epoxy. For my bathroom, I wanted to have different level height at sink area to separate from shower area. So, with just shower curtain I can prevent the water from shower area to flow to the sink area..
The height difference is just the tile thickness. So, told the contractor to use adhesive meant for that. It is not 10 years and no peeling at all. The adhesive thickness is just probably 1mm.
When cutting a line to separate the area to be removed and not to be removed, it is not necessarily to be too deep. You do not want to cut electrical wire or its trunking. The groove will create a weak breaking line on surface. So, the protected area will got get affected.
is there difference between normal cement & tiles cement?
The adhesive type is more recent than old fashioned cement type. The advantage of adhesive type is fast to work with. You can grout the tile without need to wait for tile to to evaporate like the cement base. The disadvantage is it is more expensive.
Using normal sand-based cement, you need to soak tile in water to help it to bond properly. If the cement is let to dry fast (not soaking tile) it will not bond properly. This is why tile can fell off. After laying the tile, need to wait for the water in cement to evaporate like 24 hours. The cement type have to be thick enough to have better hold. It also has limitation. It will not hold non-porous tile type like granite or big size tile.
This is why I would recommend the cement meant for tiling.
Normally, for renovation, contractors will use what brand of tiles ? Floor tiles and wall tiles are different cos floor tiles need to stand weight ? So floor tiles are more expensive, but are they also thicker ?
Any brand would have tiles for both wall and floor. Brand? House developers will use whatever brand that they have special contract price or use any cheaper one within their standard spec.
If you are renovating your house after getting your key, any extension on existing tile would be the same brand o be seamless. Will be different if you use different brand. On isolated location, you can specify whatever brand you like. Normally people would just go and look for the pattern they like first among famous equivalent quality brands.
There are so many surfaces...matte? satin? polished?
Concrete table top you want it to be glossy and shiny and easy to wipe off.
The only thing I did not like using tiles is that the grouting between the tile. It is easy to get dirty. Maybe use black tiles and black grouting. The dirtier it gets, the newer it looks
Choose as big tile as possible to reduce grouting lines.
How much roughly it will cost if I hire people to help polish my tiles? around 900~1000sqf
What is best value hardware for orbital polishing tool?
I have no idea. My tiles all covered by laminated floor. Do you need to polish all area? Maybe just along the scratches. Try a spot if you can polish them out manually. Simple method:
If you can, then buy handheld polishing machine like for car. China made probably around RM150. Named brand like Black and Decker around RM200. Note that these are not industrial grade. We are not in polishing business anyway
Is it easy to stick tiles on my bathroom walls ? The existing tiles is only up to 5 feet and I want to add another layer of tiles to it. I will need to rough out the tile areas by chiseling out existing cement and then cover the whole tile back with cement and just stick on the wall ? How to ensure the tile will not fall out while drying ?
QUOTE(advocado @ Jan 23 2018, 08:01 AM)
to install tiles over painted wall, how do we treat the wall to ensure the tiles stick?
do we scrap off the paint, or do we use a hammer on it?
My bathroom was also 5' high. I added 2 more rows to make it about 7'+
The contractor just chipped the wall with chisel randomly on the painted wall. The chipped hole was < 1" deep. Distance between each were around 10" perhaps. Nothing was done on painted wall except for chipped wall that removed the pint. Then they just put tile cement and laid the tile on it. Work done on 3 bathrooms and took around 6 hours I think including lunch break
No problem until now and it already has been 10 years.
The white color cement between tile is called grout. It is mixture of cement, water and fine sand. It can be any color. Normally white is used. For tiling cement is used normally in olden days, but now special mixture of cement is used which include adhesive material. This can ease the tiling work and reduce time.
After tiles are fixed to the wall, the gap between tiles are filled with grout which normally white in color. If old grout yellowish and dirty, you can get contractor to re-grout it to look new. I don't know how much though
Damn ! My bathroom tiles are 8" x 8". Have they stop manufacturing such small tiles ? I see White Horse site tiles minimum sizes are 12" x 12".
Still got. The problem is the pattern may be discontinued and most likely even if you get the same series, the color does not match. Color change over time and color also slightly different among different tiles batches
Jan 15 2018, 09:29 AM
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You can also use/need power grinder. The cut angle no need to be so perfect as the switch or socket panel will cover the edge of tiles anyway.
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