If im not mistaken, aftermarket shifter only shorten the gear between 1-2 and 3-4 only. Others remain the same. I custom made mine with 1 sic fellow. Damn nice. 1-2-3-4-5-R all shorten. Unlike our stock shift. Huhu

i saw these weeks ago. not bad

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/eng...rt-shifter.html



Anyone sells NARDI steerings here? looking. Used one will do..

This post has been edited by lyordson: May 10 2011, 01:25 AM

depends leh, carby 4g15p has quite high fc for my case, power confirm got la, but will drink more petrol also
i got not 1 but 2 saga at home, both also drink fuel 1

Your car consume high FC doesn't mean all Sagas are like that

As mentioned many times before, retune your carb to get better FC. Just check for previous postings in this thread on how to get better FC

vacuum gauge is not to check ur AFR laa...
vacuum gauge is to check ur intake manifold pressure...

haha... tired of explaining over and over again every few days when new member pops in asking the same thing....

u can unfriend him adi...

check all 4 tyres for correct tyre pressure... check if all 4 tyres got thread or not...
check front and rear absorber see if they are working or dead (damaged/leaking)...
check wheel alignment as well as camber setting...
check front lower arm bushing and rear trailing arm bushing....

there's a bolt size 14 or 17 (cannot remember) just below the linkage selector... remove it and stick ur finger inside... if u can touch the oil means sufficient... if not, pls top up with extra gear oil...

1. stroker kit consist of crankshaft, conrods and pistons... it is meant to increase an engine displacement by increasing the bore and stroke size... there are tonnes of stroker kit out there for various types of engine.... for example, evo 2.2L stroker kit and so on.... for 4g15, we can use stroker kit from 4g18 engine... to use 4g15 stroker kit in 4g13 is dangerous as 4g13 cylinder block wall is quite thin to begin with...

original proton iswara 4-2-1 header looks like this... its also called cast exhaust manifold...



aftermarket 4-2-1 extractor looks like this...



notice the difference between both 4-2-1 extractor??... 4-2-1 is just the configuration... piping size and length is what matters....

as for muffler.... inside of an s-flow muffler looks like this...



while straight flow muffler looks like this...



low and mid-range torque... stock exhaust is the best...

total cost approximate that price laa...

i got sell... interested PM me...

customed by jenal??.. dat one really sifu... his work place equipped with proper machinery as well...

Haha.....but also can be use to tune afr if noe how
learn from pro online

u need a proper wideband o2 sensor to accurately determine the AF mixture across the rev range... using vacuum gauge or sparkplug reading method only tells half a story of it.... another half is prolly exposed to lean mixture and serious engine pinging problem....

Interesting.... Mine give me more info?
I just want to shorten the forward gears, reverse remain stock length la, possible?

Me still student bro,can't afford O2 wideband sensor....only can trial and error + vacuum meter

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Added on May 10, 2011, 9:51 amIs it the gold colour bolt facing upward?

This post has been edited by Chan320: May 10 2011, 09:51 AM

Super 4 is the best for saga 12V...

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Added on May 10, 2011, 10:33 ami just done port-polish ,crankshaft pulley change and clean the engine head... is perfectly smooth... just waiting to try a 4-2-1 exhaust..

This post has been edited by DCarbon2: May 10 2011, 10:33 AM

If i plonk in the hi-cam first instead of headers/extractors, will it be abnormal? any cons?

how to know wheter im using hi-cam now, coz when i bought this car last year, the previous owner mention bout the cam. in that case, i dont need to spend again x)

hmmm.. most stuff relating to tyre/alignment already check. as for trailing arm, i saw the middle part (which got some rubber) is oily and kinda damaged. To repair, what item should i replace? found something relate to "rear axle kit", should i ask for it at shop? Last time the shop said need to replace "rear axle" (whoa!) so im a bit skeptical..

will feedback later. thanks ya.

Hi..am a LMST user..

The car is already 7 yrs and still functioning well..got any recommendation for car bodyshop to repair the sqeaking n rattling sounds in my car?

short shifter only reduce the throw of ur gear stick... it does not change the gear ratio...

nope... its a bolt facing forward... see from the top abit hard to spot coz it is partially blocked... climb down from bottom u can spot it easily...

a bit abnormal lor... u give ur engine a free breathing exhaust system first... if not, slotting in high cam does not make full use of it...

to check whether u using highcam or not, u need to remove ur cam and check... some have label, some might not... for those which does not have any label, u need dail gauge to determine the cam duration and micrometer to check the cam lift.... compare the results with oem cam specs....

rear trailing arm bush replacement normally cost around rm200-rm250... when u take corner hard and can hear kruk kruk sound from the rear, u know ur rear arm bush needs replacement d....

Thanks for the info,will have a look during the weekend

find the speedo cable follow from ur firewall
remove the cable and remove a no.10 nut attatch to a gear casing that hold the gear to pusing ur speedo
must ketuk ketuk
then you can see the oil level directlly

This post has been edited by sinister_sid: May 10 2011, 05:40 PM

The New Petronas 95 Extra is quite good....switched to that type and feel the differences....i guess

any recommendation for fueling? LMST 1.3

dat lubang also can used to fill up gearbox oil... but u might accidentally overfill it... gearbox has a small breather look alike rubber... if u overfill with oil, oil might squirt out from that breather... it can also damage the breather in long run, causing blockage and leaking issue on driveshaft oil seal...