Last time I tested from fuel light blinking until my car cannot move at all and engine died i got around 45KM. My car is auto with aircond turn on. But didnt drive on highway lar. Called insurance to tow my car.

Btw, I tinted my car using Tint Master, kena like rm1600 for this:
http://www.tintmaster.com.my/product_T-Diamond_black.html

But, even during not so hot day, after I left it like 2,3 hours inside my car still feels hot like not using tint at all. Crazy.
Not recommended at all!!!!

You made a non sense accusation.

You won't find a tint that can make your car cool under sun even for just <1 hour.

Tint can block certain percentage of infrared into the cabin, but how about the metal body of the car itself? Do you think your car metal is 'heat proof'?

Expect your car is cool after 2-3 hours under sun is totally noob.

What nonsense? U think I lied? Or u think my expectation is soooo high?! Did I say not so hot day? Then might as well dont use tint at all. What for u paid thousands to get this kind of tint? So are u the Tint Master salesman? The way u talked just like salesman after sales service. Typical salesman
Again, I DONT RECOMMEND Tint Master!

This post has been edited by izdyharz: Oct 10 2010, 03:33 AM

For BLM u can use a higher UF VS..that shud do the trick.
it can less the jerk u mention.
There r DIY VS selling in www.Blmclub.co.cc

For Auto, u can reach around 350-370km for full tank...thats my car laaa.. i donno bout others.
For manual i heard some can reach almost around 500km..atleast thats what i heard.

This post has been edited by dagreatdzul: Oct 10 2010, 10:18 AM

izdyharz
try get pvc seat cover, or maybe coolmax seat covers.

I lazy to argue this thing to a noob who don't know the law of physics. Speak as u like, sales men la, bla bla bla.

---

Added on October 10, 2010, 5:33 pmThe jerk is caused by the compressor break-in torque which is about 35Nm, > 1/4 of the max torque, during low rev (<2k), it suffer more.

Nothing to do with the electrical system, so stop saying VS can improve the jerk.

Manual pure highway cruising can get 16+km/L, thats my car, so u calculate that.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 10 2010, 05:36 PM

when compressor kicks in, high current (ampere) is drawn from the electrical system, hence a drop in the voltage in that split second n you feel the power lose or jerk. a battery works like a spare tank to fill the gap. but a battery only fill in at 12.5v andbelow. our normal operating situation the voltage is 13~14v so from12.5v~13v the electrical system will depends only on the alternater n ecu voltage correcting system which have 1-2seconds delay.
a high capacitor or VS helps to fill i the 13-14v gap. so reduce the power loss/jerk.
those commercial selling VS had <100,000uf helps a little in this jerk.
I had DIYed a 60,000uf VS for my BLM, not much help.

for BLM- low power car with High power loading Air con.. what u expect?

for curious guys, test before u buy loh....

If you did measure the voltage fluctuation before, u will notice the voltage drop during compressor kickin is <0.5V by <0.5s, which is negligible compare to the huge breaking torque. Thats why i said there no noticeable improvement if install VS.

However this only happen in Manual, and not noticeable for AT because the clutch slip most probably absorb that kick jerk adi.

[quote=coolkwc,Oct 10 2010, 07:25 PM]
If you did measure the voltage fluctuation before, u will notice the voltage drop during compressor kickin is <0.5V by <0.5s, which is negligible compare to the huge breaking torque. Thats why i said there no noticeable improvement if install VS.
===============================================================
that it.. the 0.5v 0.5sec dip causes the drag. if u fill up this, then u will feel smooth.. see, the higher the caps will fill up this gap, the smaller gap, less jerk. good grounding cable also helps.
another good point for VS is, it acts as a filter for most surge/transcient voltage, smoothen the spicky voltage hence reduce the failure of electrical/electronic items eg. bulb/radio/ecu/battery......it is still recommended to have one to protects. eg. when compressor on/off/on/off time, spicky/dirty voltage occurs n this would be transfer to all components connected, a VS will absorbs it. Try connect our BLM to a osciloscope to see the edgy spike voltage.
(a analog sanwa meter don't help.)

This post has been edited by goohtj: Oct 10 2010, 10:01 PM

How much is the estimated price for Saga B-Line Auto Feb, 2010 ? Someone is considering to sell it I think? So i want to know whats the estimated price?

Today just touch up on my baby after got my car on Friday!

1.) Tinted Care Kool and the price is around RM700

2.) do Auto Lock at the price of RM150

Yeah babeh! I am ready to go!

coolkwc
i dun believe in VS, but i did get 1 of the DIY VS. and to tell u the truth, it improve the jerk issue. I dunno stuff about electrics, but honestly that VS do help alot. U can say it's my psychology effect, but i did give my frens to try drive my ride, and they agree the jerk is reduced to the max.

btw, i drive MT.

Which DIY VS u refering to ?

Blinking can still run for at least 70km la..

I agree your point of filtering purpose.

anyway, about the dirty voltage, the filter cap inside your equipment (Audio) will do the job as well, no need too worry about that.

Be aware if you DIY the cap by urself.

Ideal cap = no leakage current, ideally no battery drain if connected across the terminals.

But for practical cap, they are certain leakage current through the dielectric inside, means it will continuous drain your battery if u turn off your car, more cap = more leakage current, especially if the electrolyc cap is used, aging cap will become worst. This is the fact that i need to point out.

Anyway, for those who expect light will become brighter, ICE better, just forget about it, in fact VS is not a voltage booster, just Voltage Stabiliser.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 11 2010, 10:46 AM

muslayer
Kuriek DIY VS from BLMClub.

I'm going to renew my road tax soon. The car is Nov 2008. How much should I insure it? Last year sum insured is 31000.

not sure the different between eriction DIY VS & Kuriek DIY VS.

sometimes, when i'm accelerating... for example... pulling 2nd gear... when the rpm around 3k... got a small sound like tikus, "cit" once, can feel power loss abit when the "cit" sound come out... then the rpm naik like usual...

not a major prob but kinda strange to hear that sound... syok2 tarik RPM then the "cit" sound come... kalau blow-off ok la... ni bunyi tikus....

btw it happens to 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear only... random... not always or everytime changing gear...

not sure the sound loud or not from the outside... coz i never ever get the chance to hear to my own car from the outside since he born...

This post has been edited by omara86: Oct 12 2010, 07:45 AM

Thats the compressor kickin sound, new car sound like 'tak', when the car getting old is 'cit'...