Today I did my 3rd service at Proton Service Centre for ard RM150+, but I was shocked when they told me 4rd service (20k) will cost me ard RM500+ (nearly RM600), including changing manual gear oil.

Is it real that 20k service cost that much for manual saga? Another doubt is if I go to Proton Authorized Service Centre (Not the Proton Service Centre) for servicing, warranty will be voided or not?

Since it is 20k service, shud b 10k from now, but why the service sticker still written 5k from now?

Ask yourself is the warranty so important to you?

If no then go to service outside, the money you save is enough to fix the warranted part. 20k at outside is just the normal service, semi sync oil+filter only RM110. Those spark plug (30k-40k), manual gear oil (40k-50k) , air filter (depends, if very dirty only need to change, mine now 25k still unchanged), brake fluid (as long as it doesn't leak) is all unnecessary, and mind you the labour charge itself adi cost you RM100, non sense.

Don't even think yourself can negotiate with them those items no need to change, they will tell you warranty will void if not follow the list.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 9 2010, 04:33 PM

just want to confirm with b-line(A) owner,

Auto gear console dont have any light on it letters even after switch on lamp?

not only B-line, all Saga BLM auto gear console don't have light.

oic.. so, have any of u guys here had installed light bulb there, quite challenging for first time driver driving the car at night

Not really for those with automatic transmission, there's an indicator at the center of the speedometer.

What I find really troublesome is the lack of a key ring light as it is difficult to insert the key into the ignition at night.

I think normal driving most often just change from N to D or vise-versa, plus the indicator at the meter panel.

rm100 tint oni..

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Added on October 9, 2010, 8:03 pmu'll get use to it.


This post has been edited by dagreatdzul: Oct 9 2010, 08:03 PM

saga is very suprising!, yesterday when I return from workplaces my fuel meter blinking and still running after45km!

Im very worried coz I never find couldnt find any petrol station (Mex highway) ...

manual or auto bro??
i guess u must be driving under 3k rpm when that blinking rite?huhu


i never reached 45km worr..
20km i ad worried like mad...lol

gosh, i didn't ask them to tear of the sides and the back stock tint b4 applying security tint. Hopefully wont be that bad huh?
windscreen just one layer cox the stock tint on the windscreen previously has a small hole so already been removed.

This post has been edited by cyrusdidi: Oct 9 2010, 09:49 PM

hehe, ya I keep the rpm between 2-2.5k, driving speed between 60km -70km ...somehow 80km,,

its auto with aircon running !!

Don't worry, it can tahan 60+ km

The fuel indicator will usually illuminate very early (roughly around 1/3 of the last fuel bar utilized). In other words, you still have 2/3 of fuel left. Do not worry.

Personally, I still prefer a proper FUEL GAUGE as it gives a better indication of how much fuel is available rather than a lousy paranoid electronic fuel bar. Cost-cutting is a b**** ain't it.

Now my stock tint is not very clear compare to new, can see from the reflective light, only one year, nearly everyday under sun from 8am - 5pm.

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Added on October 9, 2010, 10:13 pm2/3? 1/4 only la....you can try it, when start blinking, you max can inject 30L only. (full is 40L).

Personally i like this type of meter rather than those needle one, at least hassle free for Proton quality.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 9 2010, 10:13 PM

just hope that the sides and rear wont have bubbles come out, else I will be crying over to remove them all along with the aftermarket tint.

Good luck to you, the possibility is there, especially the rear one.

I wonder how the aftermarket tint installer give you warranty? if let say the stock tint inside got bubble, how u going to claim? Of course Proton won't bother u, and there is not the 2nd tint fault. Or if the 2nd tint got bubble? they might say is the stock tint fault.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 9 2010, 10:28 PM

hi guys. wanna ask, for auto and manual blm, is there a HUGE different in term of power/torque/speed etc? i personally prefer manual coz i have been driving manual all the while but my dad recommend me to get auto due to kl traffic..

need to clarify further with the shop then. and now it does bother me

This post has been edited by cyrusdidi: Oct 9 2010, 10:47 PM

Auto is better to drive at KL, but FC is damn suck. Manual BLM can feel the aircon compressor kick-in very obvious, which will make 1~2 gear feel jerky, not comfortable for traffic jam driving, but FC wise and power is better, so u choose.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 9 2010, 11:30 PM