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 The suiting thread v2

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Terrorsquad
post Oct 8 2011, 09:18 PM

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Nope,he's based on jalan yap ah shak...
dwin95
post Oct 9 2011, 12:59 AM

wow i finally get to type here since 2009
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Been lurking awhile here . I must really respect everyone here with all your good taste in fashion.

Btw , Planning to suit up for prom during the end of the year . That being my first suit , I think ill just settle with topman/zara/g2000 suits ? Average ones before i actually invest in a good tailored one .Btw ,is it necessary to have same colors for both my slack and suit ? Im kinda leanning towards navy blue , grey colored suits , Slim fit . But , my height tells me that I won't look good in suits . I'm about 171 . Tried a couple of my dad's suit and I look , big lol. Maybe his customs are a little too big . Meh biggrin.gif

If possible , tell me more , on how to dress like a gentleman . tongue.gif thank you .
MeToo
post Oct 9 2011, 06:37 PM

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QUOTE(dwin95 @ Oct 9 2011, 12:59 AM)
Been lurking awhile here . I must really respect everyone here with all your good taste in fashion.

Btw , Planning to suit up for prom during the end of the year . That being my first suit , I think ill just settle with topman/zara/g2000 suits ? Average ones before i actually invest in a good tailored one .Btw ,is it necessary to have same colors for both my slack and suit ? Im kinda leanning towards navy blue , grey colored suits , Slim fit . But , my height tells me that I won't look good in suits . I'm about 171 . Tried a couple of my dad's suit and I look , big lol. Maybe his customs are a little too big . Meh biggrin.gif

If possible , tell me more , on how to dress like a gentleman . tongue.gif  thank you .
*
Go for Padini.
rellik_yzarc
post Oct 9 2011, 10:37 PM

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This is my KFW FC suit that I showed AL before commissioning him to make me a navy Blazer (1st fitting pics in my previous post).
According to AL, he'd take the waist in by 1/2".
I am afraid if I tell AL to lessen the waist compression at the back, the waist compression would not be visible from the front.
How should I proceed?

user posted image
user posted image
user posted image

This post has been edited by rellik_yzarc: Oct 9 2011, 11:50 PM
kotmj
post Oct 10 2011, 04:35 PM

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That KFW is very good. The ALT is too wasp-like. Something between the KFW and ALT is the ideal waist supression.
stylophile
post Oct 10 2011, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(rellik_yzarc @ Oct 9 2011, 10:37 PM)
This is my KFW FC suit that I showed AL before commissioning him to make me a navy Blazer (1st fitting pics in my previous post).
According to AL, he'd take the waist in by 1/2".
I am afraid if I tell AL to lessen the waist compression at the back, the waist compression would not be visible from the front.
How should I proceed?

user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
*
loving the general shape of this jacket. did you have to give him a lot of instructions to get it like this or is it his standard cut?

tuan amateur tailor, the pulling above the armpit on the back of the jacket, is that excess cloth?

and the pulling on the pants, is there a problem with where the pants are sitting?
kotmj
post Oct 10 2011, 06:01 PM

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The KFW does not have properly fitted sleeves. This is the cause of the bunching near the armpits. The balance though is perfect.

The pants are also not ideally fitted, but it isn't so bad. Needs to have back balance reduced.
"6"
post Oct 10 2011, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(rellik_yzarc @ Oct 10 2011, 12:37 AM)
This is my KFW FC suit that I showed AL before commissioning him to make me a navy Blazer (1st fitting pics in my previous post).
According to AL, he'd take the waist in by 1/2".
I am afraid if I tell AL to lessen the waist compression at the back, the waist compression would not be visible from the front.
How should I proceed?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Jacket looks good. Something about the lapels I don't quite like in terms of shape - looks slightly droopy (can't articulate better), and the sleeves need rotation maybe? But overall proportions are great. Also, the waist suppression from the back looks awesome.


To the bespoke veterans on this forum - I want to commission my first bespoke piece next time I'm back in the tanah air. Thinking of a navy Irish or Italian linen jacket - unlined, with soft treatment of the shoulders - I prefer my jacket shoulders to be cut narrower and my natural shoulders to protrude slightly from the sleeves - producing a relaxed casual look. Any good recommendations of tailors who are good at this sort of construction? No doubt I'll have to pay some 'tuition' fee, regardless of tailor, but good leads would be appreciated.

So far it seems like ALT and this KFW are producing some good work, but their shoulder construction still seems slightly "stiff" - which is fine as most commissions posted here a for business. Any other tailors worth a try?

Paying a visit to the boys at the Armoury is an option for good MTM, but I want to support our local tradesmen and take pride in wearing something handmade in Malaysia. Any feedback is appreciated.

Also side note after reading kotmj's sticky on how to get a suit made in Malaysia - you boys are crazy dedicated - sourcing cloth, buttons and even horsehair canvass yourselves. Hopefully I'll have some luck in sourcing these "raw materials" myself.
bloke1
post Oct 10 2011, 07:17 PM

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But the suppression on that KFW is off, jacket needs more skirt flare. If you take in more of the waist, you will end up looking like a stick.

Jacket collar too needs some tweaking.

Added on October 10, 2011, 7:19 pmKakakmj, please say something on the slight puckering along the CB seam.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Oct 10 2011, 07:27 PM
kotmj
post Oct 10 2011, 07:36 PM

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"Puckering" is caused by dropped right shoulder and hips which jut out to one side. But it's rather minor here in the general scheme of things. Especially after all the bad cases we were asked to look at, the pics in the previous few pages are surprisingly good.

rellik needs shoulder extension and a roomier coat because his body is so thin relative to his head. the tailored jacket is the only garment with a structure, and is therefore the only one which can compensate a little for these things. should make use of that potential.


Added on October 10, 2011, 7:40 pmand of course we all know kfw's droopy lapels are straight from the misty past. i find that charming. not on my own jackets but it is good to know that such things are still being made for others.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 10 2011, 07:46 PM
rellik_yzarc
post Oct 10 2011, 10:46 PM

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Thanks for all the comments guys. I wondered where the all the sifus were.

I went to ALT today for another fitting, no pictures this time as not much has changed.

Things we agreed upon
1. Lessen the waist suppression by 1/4" and inserted a needle on the middle of the back seam to mark this. I am quite worried with this since there is a lot of room (one fist) at the waist.
2. Lower the gorge by 1/2"
2. Open the quarters more to get the symmetrical "X" look.
3. Open up the "V"(?) part of the suit so more of the shirt is showing.
4. Lessen the curvature of the back.

Things I am not so sure
1. When asked about the excess shoulder padding that went beyond the shoulders and gave the head of the shoulders a sunken look, he replied that they will be shaved off. This did not happen with KFW.
2. When asked about swappable buttons he quoted RM50 for workmanship only. Another RM50 for silver or horn buttons. Is this discriminate pricing?
3. Should I get kissing or overlapping or regular working cuff buttons?

I am going again tomorrow around 1pm for another fitting, hopefully the wasp looking waist suppression is fixed by the minor 1/4" adjustment. If not, I am just gonna stick with what AL suggests.

One other thing AL told me is that KFW's canvas was machine stitched, that's why I can feel the stitches through the wool, his on the other hand felt quite smooth. Any truth to this?

When AL saw KFW's suit he said he can make a better one, thus I asked him to make me a FC navy blazer. Hopefully he can deliver on this statement.

In KFW's defense; fitting on the suit was done before Ramadhan and I collected the finished suit after Eid. I am about 5kgs lighter now compared to before Ramadhan.
stylophile
post Oct 11 2011, 10:10 AM

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QUOTE(rellik_yzarc @ Oct 10 2011, 10:46 PM)
Thanks for all the comments guys. I wondered where the all the sifus were.

I went to ALT today for another fitting, no pictures this time as not much has changed.

Things we agreed upon
1. Lessen the waist suppression by 1/4" and inserted a needle on the middle of the back seam to mark this. I am quite worried with this since there is a lot of room (one fist) at the waist.
2. Lower the gorge by 1/2"
2. Open the quarters more to get the symmetrical "X" look.
3. Open up the "V"(?) part of the suit so more of the shirt is showing.
4. Lessen the curvature of the back.

Things I am not so sure
1. When asked about the excess shoulder padding that went beyond the shoulders and gave the head of the shoulders a sunken look, he replied that they will be shaved off. This did not happen with KFW.
2. When asked about swappable buttons he quoted RM50 for workmanship only. Another RM50 for silver or horn buttons. Is this discriminate pricing?
3. Should I get kissing or overlapping or regular working cuff buttons?

I am going again tomorrow around 1pm for another fitting, hopefully the wasp looking waist suppression is fixed by the minor 1/4" adjustment. If not, I am just gonna stick with what AL suggests.

One other thing AL told me is that KFW's canvas was machine stitched, that's why I can feel the stitches through the wool, his on the other hand felt quite smooth. Any truth to this?

When AL saw KFW's suit he said he can make a better one, thus I asked him to make me a FC navy blazer. Hopefully he can deliver on this statement.

In KFW's defense; fitting on the suit was done before Ramadhan and I collected the finished suit after Eid. I am about 5kgs lighter now compared to before Ramadhan.
*
i should really start fasting. where did you lose the weight? i am looking to lose a slight tummy.
rellik_yzarc
post Oct 11 2011, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(stylophile @ Oct 11 2011, 10:10 AM)
i should really start fasting. where did you lose the weight? i am looking to lose a slight tummy.
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Looking back at your prev post:

Not much guidance given except that I asked Mr Khong to go aggressive on the waist suppression.

I lost most of it around my stomach and buttocks while retaining my upper body muscle mass which I credit to continued bouldering during Ramadhan.

That's why the KFW pants fits so poorly.


MeToo
post Oct 13 2011, 01:19 AM

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Picked up my 3 piece from Wardrobe this evening. They informed me that they made a mistake on the sleeve buttons. I asked for slightly overlapping button placing which they did not do. So the CEO came and asked if I'm able to inform them where did I source the cloth so that they can redo both sleeves for me.... I told them not to worry about it...

This post has been edited by MeToo: Oct 13 2011, 01:19 AM
nasrulbond
post Oct 13 2011, 01:26 AM

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i want my suit double breasted someday. looks awesome like barney. brows.gif
Terrorsquad
post Oct 16 2011, 09:25 PM

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Hey guys, this is pics of my second fitting.for the front pic, i have decided to make it shorter by another 0.5' which can be seen on the right side.It seems that there is still bunching at the sleeves and the sleeves are also not clean.I have asked AL to address this and also the fact that my right shoulder drops which results in puckering and as such, i have asked him to adjust that also.Any other comments would be appreciated.

Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
uturn
post Oct 17 2011, 11:41 AM

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Hi guys.. appreciate your comments on this particular fabric selling on ebay.. Do you think what the seller is saying are true?..

He said.."....if this was sold as a retail item it would cost over £150 a meter if you could get it anywhere, the manufacture cost was £75 per meter before profit its a fantastic buy !!!! .."

I'm just trying to get a little grasp on how to value fabrics sold internationally.

For reference. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mts-60-wide-ENG...=item2eb86e10ef
MeToo
post Oct 17 2011, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(uturn @ Oct 17 2011, 11:41 AM)
Hi guys.. appreciate your comments on this particular fabric selling on ebay.. Do you think what the seller is saying are true?..

He said.."....if this was sold as a retail item it would cost over £150 a meter if you could get it anywhere, the manufacture cost was £75 per meter before profit its a fantastic buy !!!! .."

I'm just trying to get a little grasp on how to value fabrics sold internationally.

For reference. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mts-60-wide-ENG...=item2eb86e10ef
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So he didnt mention how much cashmere is blended in it? He didnt mention the weight of the fabric? And ... its.. BLACK? You really want to wear a black suit?
Terrorsquad
post Oct 17 2011, 01:38 PM

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Hi guys.. appreciate your comments on this particular fabric selling on ebay.. Do you think what the seller is saying are true?..

He said.."....if this was sold as a retail item it would cost over £150 a meter if you could get it anywhere, the manufacture cost was £75 per meter before profit its a fantastic buy !!!! .."

I'm just trying to get a little grasp on how to value fabrics sold internationally.

For reference. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mts-60-wide-ENG...=item2eb86e10ef


Why dont you try British Fabrics on ebay or better still, order straight from Dugdales?From my experience with Dugdales, they are very reliable. If you want to feel the cloth, you can go to Ah Loke where he has the Dugdale books.
silencer
post Oct 17 2011, 01:47 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Oct 17 2011, 01:38 PM)
Hi guys.. appreciate your comments on this particular fabric selling on ebay.. Do you think what the seller is saying are true?..

He said.."....if this was sold as a retail item it would cost over £150 a meter if you could get it anywhere, the manufacture cost was £75 per meter before profit its a fantastic buy !!!! .."

I'm just trying to get a little grasp on how to value fabrics sold internationally.

For reference. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mts-60-wide-ENG...=item2eb86e10ef
Why dont you try British Fabrics on ebay or better still, order straight from Dugdales?From my experience with Dugdales, they are very reliable. If you want to feel the cloth, you can go to Ah Loke where he has the Dugdale books.
*
The listing had been removed..though...

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