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 The suiting thread v2

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Cheenoo
post Sep 29 2011, 09:04 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Sep 29 2011, 05:48 PM)
OT : The would entirely depend on how hot your gf is, or maybe how hairy your chest is...

ps : Why does everyone go to ALT? Give wardrobe a try darnit! tongue.gif
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Oh speaking of trying something else, I saw someone being fitted at Isetan KLCC, I can't remember the name of the brand (its the only one with tailoring). I didn't manage to see much of the details, but what caught my attention were the shoulders that were very nice, smooth and slightly concave.
Terrorsquad
post Sep 29 2011, 10:39 PM

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I'll probably get my second suit commissioned at Iris.and most likely by that time I'll give the j&j minnis fresco a go..have heard good things bout the fabric...or I'll stick with Thomas Fisher...but this time the cape breeze line
kotmj
post Sep 29 2011, 10:55 PM

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minnis fresco is for masochists. you should feel the cloth before you do anything crazy like buy a length. there is no cloth coarser than it.
silencer
post Sep 29 2011, 11:25 PM

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any1 going to alt on this saturday smile.gif
kotmj
post Sep 30 2011, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(shanecross @ Sep 29 2011, 08:03 PM)
If I were to bring sample pics of the type of suit i like to ALT, will he be able to use that as a ref?
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If you bring pictures of specific elements of a suit, let's say of a patch pocket, or a particular way of making the inside facing, or of lapel roll, then there is a chance he can replicate these features. If you show him a pic and want him to replicate the general impression of the suit, it will never work. If you show him something from GQ and he actually manages to replicate that idiocy, you will regret he was successful because the suit will not be wearable.


Added on September 30, 2011, 12:11 pmThis is before we consider the fact that a suit is as much about feel as about looks. Pics cannot convey how a suit feels on the wearer.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 30 2011, 12:11 PM
MeToo
post Sep 30 2011, 12:16 PM

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QUOTE(shanecross @ Sep 29 2011, 08:03 PM)
If I were to bring sample pics of the type of suit i like to ALT, will he be able to use that as a ref?
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YOu ever notice some shirt etc displayed on a mannequin looking great then doesnt look the same when u try it on? Then u noticed like 50 pins behind the mannequin holding the shirt up in various places. Same with those photoshoots displayed in magazines.
shanecross
post Sep 30 2011, 04:09 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Sep 30 2011, 03:16 PM)
YOu ever notice some shirt etc displayed on a mannequin looking great then doesnt look the same when u try it on? Then u noticed like 50 pins behind the mannequin holding the shirt up in various places. Same with those photoshoots displayed in magazines.
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That is damn good point man. How did I let that slip...cheers man...I basically just want to do up a normal suit..notch lapel, 2 buttons, no fancy linings...probably the fit that matters the most.. *keeps lurking the net*

QUOTE
If you bring pictures of specific elements of a suit, let's say of a patch pocket, or a particular way of making the inside facing, or of lapel roll, then there is a chance he can replicate these features. If you show him a pic and want him to replicate the general impression of the suit, it will never work. If you show him something from GQ and he actually manages to replicate that idiocy, you will regret he was successful because the suit will not be wearable.
I hear you man. So in the end, ya gotta start from scratch. Thanks ! I don't think I need to bring pics if thats the case since the suit that I'd like to tailor is pretty generic in features.

This post has been edited by shanecross: Sep 30 2011, 07:41 PM
"6"
post Sep 30 2011, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 30 2011, 02:05 PM)
If you show him something from GQ and he actually manages to replicate that idiocy, you will regret he was successful because the suit will not be wearable.
Preach it. rclxms.gif

This post has been edited by "6": Sep 30 2011, 05:54 PM
Terrorsquad
post Sep 30 2011, 09:59 PM

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shanecross, are you going to ALT tomorrow? Btw, all my ties have arrived.marinella ties are just awesome.
Cheenoo
post Oct 1 2011, 02:04 AM

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gshen has launched Vanda Fine Clothing. Very exciting! Artisanal menswear budding near us. When will kokmj make his debut?
kotmj
post Oct 1 2011, 02:18 AM

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I'm still learning how to make pockets.

Actually, f*** that. I think I'll apply for sole distributorship of Vanda in Malaysia and Brunei.
kotmj
post Oct 1 2011, 05:58 PM

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Have to rush to a wedding, but here are two jackets of the same material by the same cutter. One was cut for the father and one for the son. This is the cheapest sort of make by my sifu.

Father
Attached Image

Son
Attached Image

The son's jacket is about the most agressive waist suppression most tailors cut. I personally prefer more.
Terrorsquad
post Oct 1 2011, 10:33 PM

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Went to AL today to commission my suit.gave him like 30 different instructions for the suit, he said it would take some time to execute all of it. But generally was a good session.my first fitting is next week and I'll provide pics.On a separate note, saw a FC SB made from 150's wool and cashmere.what caught my eye was how high the armholes were and the how broad the shoulders were. It was also very2 waisted which surprised me. Alas, the lapels were not padded and the quarters were not as open.
kotmj
post Oct 1 2011, 11:30 PM

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What do you mean by "the lapels were not padded"?
Terrorsquad
post Oct 2 2011, 12:01 AM

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I may have gotten the term wrong or I completely misunderstood the concept of a padded lapel..can you enlighten me kotmj?
kotmj
post Oct 2 2011, 12:15 AM

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You see a lapel being padded at 0:18 in this vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlX9pcBOqT0

All fully canvassed jackets have padded lapels. The father and sons jackets I posted above do not. No fused jackets have their lapels padded. Regardless of tailor or price. (Except mine due to special request.)

The unpadded lapel is soft and floppy. The padded lapel has a great deal of memory and always wants to snap back to its position close to the chest.
Terrorsquad
post Oct 2 2011, 12:23 AM

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I see..then I misunderstood the concept then...do high armholes restrict ur movement kotmj?AL asked me to try the jacket and the armholes were really restrictive...
kotmj
post Oct 2 2011, 12:36 AM

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The whole idea of high armholes is to enable movement, not restrict it.
Terrorsquad
post Oct 2 2011, 12:46 AM

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It's someone else's jacket so maybe he'll find it comfortable..
MeToo
post Oct 2 2011, 02:04 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Oct 2 2011, 12:15 AM)
You see a lapel being padded at 0:18 in this vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlX9pcBOqT0

All fully canvassed jackets have padded lapels. The father and sons jackets I posted above do not. No fused jackets have their lapels padded. Regardless of tailor or price. (Except mine due to special request.)

The unpadded lapel is soft and floppy. The padded lapel has a great deal of memory and always wants to snap back to its position close to the chest.
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Speaking of lapel padding. I requested for a livelier lapel (ie padded) with my fused jacket and this is Wardrobe's CEO's reply "the lapels are light, soft and padded. but not with horse hair. we only use horsehair for the shoulders and chest. we use an italian imported canvas made of a mix of animal hair for the structure and for its weight. our lapels are made to be "lively" and not lying flat."

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