Tried to find an outfit for the coming company annual dinner. Jackets from suits #1 and #2 totally do not fit anymore. Deltoids sticking out and very tight across the back. So awkward.

Beige linen jacket still fits.

I am liking FCDB more and more.

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Added on October 30, 2010, 11:08 pmThe Chinese are totally inundating the market with the most sumptuous cashmeres ... stock up on them before they sell out.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 30 2010, 11:08 PM

Met an ex-Savile Row tailor and he got me this for close to nothing. It's an ex-shop sample.














The hanger is Huntsman but the dinner jacket is not. Just wanted to create some suspense. It's made by Chris Kerr, another bespoke tailor. http://www.chriskerr.com/# The bespoke tailoring scene is very close knitted hence he was able to get me the Huntsman hanger just for cheap thrills. The quality is just amazing - fully canvassed and pick stitched lapels. Strange enough, it fits me really well although it wasn't tailored for me. Only the bit below the arm holes need to be taken in by 1/4 of an inch. Even then, that's only if I'm being pedantic. My contact will keep a look out for more samples for me!

This post has been edited by BonVivant: Oct 31 2010, 01:12 AM

How did you get to know that tailor?

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Added on October 31, 2010, 5:55 pmJust passed by Lord's here in BSC. I'll never feel comfortable going into a place like that! There are some gyms like that too and I hate them. All glass, any lala passerby can stare at you like you're in an aquarium.

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Added on October 31, 2010, 6:00 pmOnce I finish my coffee here I'll go into Lord's and look at their stuff.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 31 2010, 06:00 PM

It was a chance meeting in the East End. The crowd there tends to quite friendly so I do sometimes chat to random people as I buy records and other vintage goods. I initially didn't know that the chap I was talking to was a tailor as he was the owner of an interior design shop but our conversation soon drifted to suiting. He used to be a tailor in Nutters of Savile Row.

The only dilemma I have now is that I do not have matching trousers for the dress suit jacket. I'm planning to go to the tailor who made it so that I can get a pair of trousers that would match the jacket exactly but that would set me back a small fortune and it would not be made in time for my annual Christmas ball. Any suggestions?

Oh.... did I also forget the need for a cummerbund and silk socks.


Also, I will be back in Malaysia for slightly more than a week in January. Do you think ALT or Bespoked will be able to make me a decent suit with minimal instruction in that time?

This post has been edited by BonVivant: Oct 31 2010, 06:20 PM

Hmm... I'm actually thinking of ordering a stopgap tuxedo (Until I have the opportunity to have one made for myself) for my Company's Christmas party as well. Theme says Black and White party, which I looked up the meaning;.... and to save myself from the indignity of showing as a penguin or a submachinegun toting nun, it'll be a tuxedo

But since it's a stopgap tux which will be relegated to "reserve" role, I'm actually looking at Marks and Spencer as Tom Mahon from the english cut recommended. They sell the tux jacket and pants seperately so perhaps you might want to look into that.

I'm really wondering now if I should just get the GBP99 one button notch lapel polyester or fork out another 100GBP for a pure wool peak lapel?

Oh and I'm actually looking out for a cummerbund and bow-tie and a pair of patent leather which I've Identified two options..... Sanders from pediwear has a pair for about 90GBP and herring shoes has one from Barker for about GBP120-ish... will decide 2moro....

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/sanders/products/1817.php

http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/product-info...tID=3&seconds=0

btw, Bon, did you manage to try the code out for Herringshoes yet?

This post has been edited by 3ff3z8e: Oct 31 2010, 06:28 PM

The tailor and the big boss' wife stared at me in silence. The big boss himself was oblivious to the immensity of the situation as he sat at his antique Chinese tea table, looking very patriarchal and dignified. The wife looked horrified.

I had one of their suit jackets in my hand. The last time I inspected a jacket, the tailor asked me if I was a tailor.

But before I got to that point, the wife explained one of the finer points of their shirts to me. "The collar will never bubble, it is long-lasting," she told me. I tried to show d'accord with her, but all I could see was the 2 to 3 mm large stitches on the collar leaf. Not only were the stitches coarse, but due to the collar interlining of spring steel, they sat atop the fabric. Spun polyester thread, of course. How long does it take for tailors to realise that Guetermann has come out with core spun technology down to a fineness of #220 which renders the thread all but invisible?

I then looked at the shirt buttons. They were hand tacked in thick polyester thread. Yet, there was no shank. The buttons were tacked tight to the cloth with no play whatsoever. I would not look forward to buttoning such shirts up.

There were two mat sallehs in the shop, and one of them was yelling about wanting something altered.

I moved around to find a suit to inspect. There was one awaiting collection. The good thing about it: The lining was put in by hand. VERY neatly. Better than ALT.

The bad thing(s): Everything else is unremarkable. Buttonholes were machine sewn. Lapels were unpadded. Lapel crease edges were ironed flat. Do I really need mention about shoulder padding? Also looking at the sleeves, I'm willing to bet 1 month's salary that the sleeve pitch is completely, utterly off. Nobody on earth has their arms out like that.

The thing is they charge RM1.2K for CMT. For that price, you can get a fully canvassed handmade suit that takes one tailor 3 days to make.

Want a generous roll to the lapel? Forget about it.


Want hand-sewn buttonholes in silk? Wrong place.


Want hand-padded lapels? Asking too much.

(Hand padding on a suit I paid RM600 for. Half the price of a Lord's, twice as good.)

Or how about this. Same price as a Lord's, but took the tailor 5 days to make.


Verdict: Lord's is for monied people who do not know any better.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 31 2010, 10:21 PM

I guess I probably wouldn't be getting another pair of shoes as getting a decent black tie kit is not the cheapest thing. My colleagues just dropped the bomb that almost all men will be in black tie so I can't possibly just wear a 3-piece suit. Regarding your question on shoes, I think that pair of Barker's is a little too squarish at the toes for my liking so I will go for the Sander's. I'm just going to wear a pair of well-polished Oxfords to save on cost.

Don't go for M&S evening suits. All their trousers have belt-loops. Also, since I can't imagine myself wearing polyester, I wouldn't suggest it as well.

Check the inner labels to verify if there is a fabric code or listing . If you are lucky , you might be able to identify the source of the fabric & buy some for a matching pants to be made.

The best bet would be to ask the original tailor to make it for you as he will probably be able to include the matching trouser stripe which should also be of the same material as the lapel.

Patent leather shoes will complete the outfit & I generally prefer to wear a silk vest for winter events & a cumber band in warmer climates.

Not sure if these tailors can make a suit with the necessary fittings in that time frame but I will defer to the frequent patrons of the two establishments in question.

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Added on November 1, 2010, 7:39 amIf you are in the UK, there's usually a good stock of dinner jackets in the Thrift shops or Oxfam. I picked up a nice fully canvassed "Daks" during my student days.

Moss brothers is the other source.

I would go with the single button peak lapel or shawl option as the notch is close to what the serving staff would wear . Unless one wears a well fitting dinner jacket , there is a high probability of someone asking you to take their drinks order!



This post has been edited by beau: Nov 1 2010, 07:39 AM

I did consider wearing a silk waistcoat. Does the silk/satin on the lapel need to match the waistcoat? I know that it has to match the bow-tie and cummerbund. However, given the size of the bow-tie and cummerbund, it would probably go unnoticed if they didn't match the lapel. A waistcoat is on the other hand a different story. Perhaps an ivory waistcoat although it may make the outfit too formal. Also, any ideas where I can buy a RTW dinner waistcoat other than Ede and Ravenscroft?

Point taken regarding notch lapels... I feared that to be the case as well. Unfortunately I live in the sartorial wasteland of Australia. Where you pay ludicrous retail prices for mediocre quality items which are very likely made in China. Put it this way; a very likely Made in China Suit from an average online UK retailer like TM Lewin, which I found out has side adjuster trousers (Hooray!!) is about AUD$360... something for the same quality here is easily 2-2.5x more expensive. Some close to $900 and the best bit about this is, It'll be very unlikely I can find short sizes. The market here ain't big enough apparently.

A suit hire costs about AUD$285. So I think my best bet is to get one from TM Lewin......

AL did a suit for a Canadian who was here for 4 days. But he went to the tailor every day he was here. 1 measurement session, 2 fittings, and then the suit was mailed to him 2 weeks after.

All local tailors require copious quantities of instruction by someone who knows his stuff to get it right. Reason: There is no formal training for would-be tailors in this country.

You want to swap jobs with me, huh?

Yeah, let's meet up this Sat.

No need to match. The contrast will make the outfit look interesting.

Check out Favourbrook on Jermyn Street for a full backed vest or Brooks Brothers for a backless version which can be used for warmer climates . The ivory or white waist coat is usually used for white tie but if you feel confident in carrying off, do give it a go.

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Added on November 2, 2010, 7:05 amTry Charles Tywritt for something in a similar price range

This post has been edited by beau: Nov 2 2010, 07:05 AM

Beau, you have an encyclopaedic knowledge of all the best menswear shops in London! I must say I'm impressed. Favourbook seems like the best bet but I've seen their shop window display and most of the time, I get a feeling that it's a little too ostentatious. Their website did contain more sober options though. Anyone with recommendations on colour/ pattern for the waistcoat?

Signs of a misspent youth , BV.

Wait for the Post Christmas sales for the best discounts (50 to 70% off )

You may wish to consider a velvet low cut waist coat from Favourbrook.

The Brooks Brother's stuff is overpriced in their Regent Street Store as compared to the US. The waist coats are part of their classic collection & rarely go on sale. Have someone buy it for you there if possible.

Misspent youth? Sartorial (I can't believe I'm using this word) enlightenment is a long journey best when one is young.

Too bad I can't wait for the post-Christmas sales. All the balls and dinners would be before Christmas. There goes another chunk of this month's salary - that's if I even have the time to go to the shops.

I propose that we organise a LowYat suiting-thread meeting in London at some point! Ideally sometime in January to take advantage of £60 Turnbull & Asser shirts amongst other equally fantastic deals. I will buy a round of drinks if it happens.

This post has been edited by BonVivant: Nov 3 2010, 03:47 AM

It should be held in the pub around The Row where the tailors hang out.

BTW, you can try Moss Brothers who occasionally have close out sales on their rental stuff at very reasonable prices. Ask to be place on the mailing list so they can notify you when something becomes available. Petticoat lane & the markets occasionally have good stuff available too.

One cheaper alternative to patent leather shoes is velvet pumps. Trickers on Jermyn Street ( opposite Favourbrook ) carry them

Just received this in my inbox. Scabal newsletter.

Kim Jong Il's label addiction revealed

Korea's influencial paper since 1920 "Chosun" reports: Kim Jong-il's Mao suit is anything but affordable and utilitarian, according to a defector who used to supply luxury goods to the North Korean leader. "It should be called a luxury suit instead," said the defector, who requested anonymity.

While working for the regime, his job was to tour the country's embassies and consulates overseas and buy goods for Kim. "In the early 1990s, I was ordered to buy fabric for the dear leader and went to France to buy 60 yards of high-quality, cashmere and silk fabric produced by Scabal of London," he said. "I paid US$300 per yard, which came to $18,000."

About four yards of fabric are needed to make a suit, so the price of the cloth alone for Kim's suit amounted to $1,200. The North Korean leader apparently hands out fabric as a gift to his closest aides. "Even in terms of South Korean standards, that would be quite a luxurious product," the defector said. "But for the average North Korean it is unimaginable."


Kim Jong Il likes Scabal

But expensive price tags alone do not guarantee products a spot on Kim's wish list. "Kim Jong-il developed a liking for Scabal, because he heard foreign celebrities enjoy wearing clothes made using the fabric."

Park Je-hyun, who owns a tailor shop in the trendy Cheongdam-dong neighborhood in Seoul, said, "Scabal doesn't wrinkle easily, which is why people on the move like it." Fans include U.S. Presidents and movie stars.

At one time Kim apparently only wore shoes made by Italian cobbler Moreschi. "In early 2000, high-ranking North Korean government officials heard a rumor that the Dear Leader wears only Moreschi shoes, so they scoured Moreschi stores whenever they went on overseas trips," the defector said.

Kim is picky about his luxury brands. According to the defector, he has a penchant for Perrier bottled water, Martell Cognac and imported menthol cigarettes. One foreign diplomat said, "During his visit to China in 2005, Kim Jong-il was delighted to see bottles of Perrier that Chinese officials had prepared for him and asked his aides how the Chinese knew he liked Perrier."

The defector said, "I used to go to Switzerland a lot to buy large numbers of Omega watches. They weren't all for Kim Jong-il, but as rewards for his staff. He added, "Kim Jong-il doesn't need a watch. If he wants to know the time, he can just ask his underlings."

are winter collection blazers appropriate for our climate? because I saw Zara selling some nice looking blazers at the new arrivals section lol. or they're all just the same thickness.

the great benevolence leader is such a great fashion and lifestyle role model