B U M P lol ha ha ha

anyway.. this is an open thread..
we'd talked about holidays, credit cards, accidents, misfortune (missing bags, lenses, body; stolen gears) and pretty much anything that we can throw at each other..
but it always ends up relating to photography so i guess there's no boundaries here...

Just to share a little on this as I tag along quite often with a friend of mine who dump his full time job to do photography (mainly wedding). Some notable items to be in the contract.

The few main things are which I can remember now.
1. Package Price (booking fee which is non refundable, in case couple FFK you.)
We all know what is this, but state your booking fee if you practice them.

2. Who is the customer (very important)
Why this is a must? Normally your main customer is the bride, and at times the bride mother (quite rare) will come complaint to her daughter that why the photographer took less photo of her. Then at least you can protect yourself that the bride pay you and that's the legal customer, not the mother.

3. Rights to publish the photos (importance depends on you)
We all know what is this.

4. Couple to do list and wishlist in photograph (very important)
You as a photographer knows what to take, e.g. Wedding Veil, Dress, Ring, Flower, and etc. At times you won't know some additional things which is important to the couple but you might miss it. So you can protect yourself that if an important to the client was not captured in the wedding, and it's not in the customer to do list and wish list, then consider we did our job according to contract.

5. Exclusive rights that you're the main photographer of the event (very important)
You are hired as a main photographer to do the work, and if some of their relative in a way disrupt our work (e.g. block your view and etc). You are safe based on this contract. So with this in the clause, get the couple to assign one people he trust to work with you. If someone disturb your shot, that person must usher them away.

These are the extra things I learn when I attended Jerry Ghionis Wedding seminar.
6. Purchase of photography service must come with wedding album
Can earn extra.

7. Customer will not have full size JPEG images
Makes your photo more valuable.

8. Time of service (from what time to what time), up to individual
Makes your service more valuable, if overtime charge extra.

9. Print of photos must go through Photographer unless Customer bought the rights
Makes your photo more valuable.

Those above are listed out but you might want to elaborate to your customer before they sign the contract.

Number 7 and 9 is somewhat draconian imho. Dealt with candidsyndrome during my wedding and they don't have this clause. Once everything is paid they give me all the full sized photo. Its better that way to me. so i can have my wedding pictures as computer background or whatnot.

This post has been edited by Uzumaki NaruTo: Jan 15 2010, 12:07 PM

On the topic of zoom and prime lens:

Zoom lens:

1. Lets you vary the focal length to suit your composition.
2. Convenient to use.
3. Can cause lazy photog syndrome - meaning you get used to just standing in one place and zoom in/out to snap pic.
4. Usually cannot beat the wide aperture offered by primes.

Prime lens:

1. Cannot zoom.
2. Will force you to move around to find a suitable composition before snapping pic.
3. Large aperture leads to shallow DOF and may cause beginners some frustration.

The thing is, it is way easier to start with a zoom lens but if you rely too much on the zoom, you may find yourself being limited in your creativity.

Starting with a prime is tougher. Prime lenses will force the photog to really move around. Get closer or further away from the subject and try different angles. It works wonders in helping you be creative in your shots. Since you have to move around a lot you will not get numerous shots taken from the same place as you are more likely to get with a zoom.

A large aperture on a prime lens can also lend itself to learning about how aperture affects your DOF and exposure better than a zoom which usually is not too bright except on the widest focal length.

On different focal lengths on primes and APS-C bodies:

Why it is difficult to start with a 50mm prime on an APS-C body? It's because the crop factor will effectively mean your 50mm lens will now give you a 75mm view. 75mm is too long for most application except for portraits.

That's the reason why on APS-C bodies, the 50mm sees much less usage. Try a 30mm prime and things will be much better. 50mm used to be the kit lens in the days of film. Film means that all the SLRs are FULL FRAME thus the 50mm is quite versatile. It can be used to shoot small groups to street shots to protraits too if you can get close enough.

Once you get the hang of it, you may find that zoom lenses hold less attraction for you. Like achew has found, he prefers to use his 50mm, 90mm and 135mm primes. In fact these three primes can effectively replace a 70-200mm zoom range and let you have a better or simliar aperture ratings and is less bulky. Of course the price is that they are less convenient as you have to swap lenses every so often.

If you have the time for lens swapping, I can bet that the primes will net you more creative shots than a zoom can given the same situation.

Prime lenses keeps you on your toes while zoom lenses tend to keep you rooted to one spot. E.g. you are shooting a wedding and you notice that the bride and groom is starting their very first dance as a married couple. You are some distance away from them:

Situation 1: You only have a 50mm on a FF or a 30mm on an APS-C
In this situation you will run to the couple and shoot. As you move around the couple for the shots, you will definitely have shots from a lot of different angles. Maybe some from a lower angle, some from a higher angle etc. You have to keep moving as the lens forces you to do that and at the same time you have to constantly think of how to compose your shots so that they are nice to look at.

Situation 2: You have a 70-200mm F2.8 zoom
You will perhaps move just a little closer and rely on the zoom to bring the couple into the frame. When using the zoom, most of the time you would be in one place and not moving. You shoot, varying the focal length but most of your shots WILL be from the same spot but with VARYING focal length. You cannot get too close as it would be difficult to use the lens. Overall your shots will not have as many different angles and you would most probably have used more tele zoom to remove unwanted background distraction.

Of course this does not mean you cannot be creative with a zoom lens but if you are not careful, a zoom lens can make you lazy because it is so convenient.

plus one more point for prime....Always be the sharpest lens indeed.

uzumaki : if u wish to check for underexposeure

1) use shadow clipping warning in cs4...

2) use the display in ur camera...the will be a display mode that shows u highlight and shadow clipping.

if u would value my opinion...i think your subject is slightly underexposed, the wing area and also...but i suspect this is because of bumped up saturation..

if use on iso400 and below, its underpower, with over iso1600 (mainly the A550,700,860,900 bodies), it works fine, it's like increase 2 stop of power.

to clear misunderstanding, if the flash says F20, it's GN20, it max is GN20. even when it at max power, say 1/1, upping the step up flash power, it will still fire at 1/1, it wont go 2/1 power. hahaha
but if the original metering were to decide to fire 1/2, yes, upping the flash power will make it fire 1/1

and yeaaa, the F20 is the factor more girls would use alpha, it's so beautiful.


well, after 1 month i have my A300, i borrow a km50 1.7, shoot for a week(while waiting for my 50F1.4), since then, i use 50mm only for the next 3 months (and 3 weddings).
i wont say it is easy to use 50mm, nor it is that hard too. but i would use the word, Challenging, really challenging, not knowing what the hell is aperture or F1.4 does to your photo (no matter how much u read on the internet, u never get ur hand on F1.4, u wont know how to use it at all!) and the tight 50mm give u chance to think, to compose, to see in diff perspective, tighter perspective.
anyone(beginner) with a wide would always (subjectively) go as wide as they can, so they could capture EVERYTHING, that what they are thinking.... so wronggg... with 50mm, u learn to shoot just the importance of 'title' or 'action', where it gives impact.

50mm is no wrong, nor right lens to begin or end with. it's just a lens to let u get to know them.

This post has been edited by ieR: Jan 15 2010, 12:39 PM

i agree...my portraits that i did for a friend is definitely proof....u have to do more work rather than point and shoot... background must be chosen rather then coincedental...

and if u touch the 50mm.....or any lens that shoots at f2.0 and below...make sure u understand PLANE OF FOCUS..or else...ahhahahha..good luck..


eg :

Opteka 85mm F1.4 spam, at F1.4.

finejava : How much you bought the CZ85 ar? Same price as CZ135 right?

i bought it for 85mm for ~5400 and 24-70 for ~5800

filter 72mm ~250 77mm ~290

p.s: 85mm and 135mm has the same price tag...

i actually tested both the lens on FF...the distance is not that great of a diff...i still would prefer aperture over distance...that is my take..

furthermore i was planning to get 24-70...so i figure better that i get 1 plannar and 1 sonnar glass rather than both the same...

This post has been edited by finejava: Jan 15 2010, 01:24 PM

I smell a hole burning in someone's wallet ...

Like said, these are from Jerry Ghionis. Most of the top wedding photographers practice that way. However you can give them JPEG provided you supply them a Wedding Album as part of the paid package. Giving Original JPEG just like that with minimal small fee of wedding photography service, doesn't sound right. Even worst, some photographer gave RAW files.

See how Bridal Studio charge for their service and you'll know.

on shopping spree mode again?

yes.. i dont simply give my client the original JPEG files..
i sell it to them..
because this is how i keep them with me..
everytime they want another copy of their pics, whether in large size or add watermark or anything..
itu cara saya yang n00b ini menjaga periuk nasi, dan menjaga nama dalam bisnes ini..

A700 for me and A550 my dad

Haha no la

I bought from Mr. Chin's shop A550 rm4080 with CZ UV filter , 18-250mm and battery grip .
A700 body (2ndhand) 16-105mm , CZ UV filter can't remmber how much .

nice , sigh no AF

---

Added on January 15, 2010, 2:14 pm85mm f1.4 not rm 4.8xxk ?

This post has been edited by likito: Jan 15 2010, 02:14 PM

do you think we can see the solar eclips at 3.15pm today?
anyone on the outing?

was thinking of it... but then..prolly gonna hit the gym...

I learned something new today. Many thanks for it Yeah the eagles are to damn fast for my kittes. Shoot like hell and only a few comes up good. Waiting for ier to test with his 200-400mm Definitely can see fish grabbed at the eagle s' leg

I see. Since use F42, rarely bumped ISO unless i want to catch the ambient light.

I see. In my package it is a must to get a wedding album. It is scary to think on how much does it costs for that level of photography. My 3 event already costs 5k++ .

lol..ironically..the plannar is brighter than the suposingly bright sonnar lenses..lol

i sense shopping spree coming~

i think no7 n no9 applies more on pre wedding??usually wedding day we would give "most" of our shots in jpeg right?even tho there is only a number of them were edited..i never give full size as in 6xxx px...usually i resize everything to 1920px..just my habit..