How about when we're facing an emergency and when the vet is not available? I 'm not sure i can trust vets in Penang anymore (regarding rabbits) as i have experienced loss (my Elnino & Shiro) when i dealed with vets. They're not a rabbit-savvy, and the sometimes the method they use is not even right!

Lets not talk about vets here, okay. I'm trying to gain and share everything u can do when u face an emergency esp during night-time, weekend or whenever ur vet is not around. Get it?

I'm so pity to see the new forumer came to our forum, posted up something like "MY RABBIT HAS STOP EATING. HELP!!" in the midnite and all we can say is "SEND IT TO THE VET!" But what about it is too late to send to the vet. A day later, we see the new forumer post up, "MY BUNNY IS DEAD!" and all u can say is ,"OMG SORRY TO HEAR THAT..." Kesian kan? If the new forumer has a first aid kit or do something to help his/her bunny, maybe the bunny can be saved, isnt it?

If u go to UK or US rabbit forums, u'll get different feedback from them. They will come out with emergency treatment for ur bunny, but the some of the items they mentioned are not available in Malaysia. (Actually we have them, but they come in different brands or names, so we have to find them with the help from internet and pharmacies.)

Maybe for some of u, it is no need to know all these since u trust ur vet so much. Well, the choice is in ur hands

I'm so glad i met a few friends who really determined and committed to their bunnies. And i learned a lot from their knowledge they gained from their friends from US and UK forums/blogs. (Thanks to Sangterap, 11Jan and CocoJune)

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Added on December 6, 2010, 8:32 amUr's? Ur HL is really cute

This post has been edited by nicoty_yne: Dec 6 2010, 08:35 AM

I believe that all the vets information has been listed. Those listed are information either given to me by those who have good experiences working with the vets or I personally have experience working with and found them good.



Start getting those Elves filling up Santa's bag man....LOL!

Thanks. Is a VM ND.

Yeap. Mine HL. Thank you. Cant compare to Sangterap. His photos are more poisoning. The moment you go into his blog, you need antidote. Haha.

haha. will try to fill them up

i understand what u mean but the way u reply to my post is rude for someone whom is agreeable to your cause.

i think what she means is the list we have is also limited.
perhaps the person that recommends the vet can also give abit of details eg.

Segar Pets Centre & Veterinary Services
2, Jalan Manis 3
Taman Segar, Cheras
56100 KL
Tel: 03 9133 4192, 03 9133 2343 (Dr. Chong)
office hours: ??
emergency contact number:??

for those in klang valley:

Animal Medical Centre Sdn Bhd
Wisma Medivet,
8, Jln Tun Razak
50400 Kuala Lumpur
t: 6(03) 4042 6742 & 4042 5873
f: 6(03) 4041 3660

Consultation Hours:
• Monday to Saturday: 9am - 9pm
Emergency hours: 9pm - 9am
• Sunday: 9am - 6pm
Emergency hours: 6pm - 9am
• Public Holiday - Please call to enquire

Emergency Services: Call 03-40426742

one of the vets is quite well verse with rabbits.

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Added on December 6, 2010, 2:48 pmsooooooo cute!!!!!!! i wanna curi!!!!!

This post has been edited by Eli: Dec 6 2010, 02:48 PM

something crazy pop from my mind.
notice dog n cat got cloths to wear.

how come no cloths for bunny?
maybe is a market to penetrate since nobody is doing that.

Mmm, I'll bite.
A few days ago, while discussing what to get one of our best friends for his birthday with another best friend, the subject of pets came up. Eventually we thought about getting our best friend a rabbit. So we began researching about rabbits, then going around pet stores to look for them.
I fell in love with them ._. And now I want my own

I always wanted a pet but I am unsure whether I am capable of taking care of one properly. If I buy a rabbit, I do not worry about my money that is spent, but rather if the rabbit is going to be happy being my pet. I don't want the rabbit to suffer =(

So, I have these following questions that I hope the people here with experience with rabbit pets can answer before I make my decision whether to actually get one.

1. Are they ok being alone? I can't afford getting a pair, and it's likely that I will only get one if I do. I also leave early in the morning on most days to go to college, and come back only in the evening. There's nobody else in the house, except a housemate that I do not think will care much about the rabbit. That means for half the day it is likely that it will be alone in it's cage. Sometimes it might even be the full day and I only come back late midnight. I am worried that it will be lonely. Will they be lonely without someone else?
2. I live in a condo, so there's no open area that I can let it out to play around. No garden, no yard, at most only the balcony. Is that okay for a rabbit? Will they be comfortable if the temperature in the condo is relatively cool? (We have aircond on most of the time)
3. Where to buy? I have seen the ones from Pet Safari @ Ikano to the really nice ones that I really like at J Jay's Petstation but the ones at J Jay's are really expensive. I was quoted RM750 for the lop-eared one that I really liked. Are there any other places recommended to get a rabbit?

This is a picture that I took of the one that I liked:


I guess those are the immediate concerns I have. Hope you guys can help and guide me so I don't mistreat these little awesomes =]

Owh so sorryyyyyy... I didnt mean to be rude

What i'm trying to write here is a basic info/guideline on what we can do to help our little furries when it comes to emergency instead of taking them to the vet.

I'm sorry if my words sound/look rude

This post has been edited by nicoty_yne: Dec 6 2010, 04:30 PM

Hi,

Why not start own a pet when you start working? To own rabbit, you need to spend $ for their monthly expenses. Sometimes more than your budget. Better focus on your studies right now

Sorry, I don't buy into rabbits wearing silly clothes. I love them in their birthday suit (not skin but their original fur).

I also do not agree. I have rabbits since I was 8 years old. Where do I get the money? I save up on all the pocket monies given to me.

It matters where your spending priorities are. Having a pet do not depend on age.

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Added on December 6, 2010, 4:36 pmGeneral rule of thumb, don't get a pet when you have the slightest doubt. Most of the time, your instinct is right.

This post has been edited by sangterap: Dec 6 2010, 04:36 PM

Hi there! Answering ur question :

1) I would rather keep one instead of 2 bunnies. 1 bunny seemed to be more/easy to bond with human compared to have 2 of them. If u worried about ur bunny will getting bored, u can get varies/interesting toys for her/him. U can pat and play with him/her when u get home. They looooooove to pat, head-stroke and ear-rub

2) U can let him/her play in the playpen with tunnel, boxes and other toys to keep him/her busy. 1m x 2m playpen is good enough.
http://furrybutts.wordpress.com/2008/08/07/bachelor-pad-20/ <--- credit to Furrybutts

Once in a while, u can take him/her out to the park, but make sure u have harness attached on him/her. Find a suitable harness for bunnies. The jacket-type harness looks fine, but some bunnies found it not comfortable as they feel like someone holding them. Just make sure the temperature is just nice for ur bunny. I keep my bunnies warm with a bit windy room.

3) I only know 2 breeders where u can get Holland Lop rabbit.
Tru-luv Rabbitry & Beh & Yo Rabbitry

Maybe the forumers can recommend u the other breeders/pet store u can approach to get ur dream bunny

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Added on December 6, 2010, 4:57 pmHi guys. I found rabbit photo contest online..
http://rabbitcontest.webs.com/

Anyone would like to join??
Since we dont have Lionhead Rabbit, we can join under Kategori Fotografi. It is just a photo contest for fun..
Anyone who joins this contest can share their photos in this forum too... Maybe one of us can win something?

This post has been edited by nicoty_yne: Dec 6 2010, 04:57 PM

1. Alone is OK, rabbits sleep in the afternoon anyway. But you have to commit about 1 hour or so everyday to interact/feed/play with your rabbit. The more the better of course. In case of certain days where you come home late and too tired to interact with your rabbit, make sure to spend more time with it the next day or so. Just make sure you communicate with it everyday so at least he/she knows you are his/her master.

2. Condo is also ok since rabbits don't make noises at all. Rabbits love the cool weather since most of the imported rabbits, like your favourite Lop are from the US/Europe where the weather is much cooler than here. Plus you can see how much fur they have, they surely like cool weathers.

For rabbit play time, you can let it roam your room, buy/make some toys for him (using cardboards to build various toys such as tunnels, houses and toilet rolls will do pretty fine) and chase/play hide-and-seek with him around when it's not afraid of you anymore. A garden isn't necessary for the rabbit if it's happy playing around in your room. You could get a rabbit harness and bring it out for a walk in the park if you want.

The only concern in a condo is that you have to take care of the smell, try to toilet train your rabbit and make sure you clean up it's toilet and other poo/pee everyday (or two days max). Rabbit poo doesn't smell, but their pee can be quite nasty if left for days. And it gets worse if your room isn't ventilated well.

3. You can try asking sangterap or Beh in this forum, there are good quality rabbit breeders. Their prices should be better than those found in pet shops.

Beh's website is here : http://www.behyorabbitry.com/
and sangterap's site is here : http://truluvrabbitry.com/

Of course you need to calculate your budget before getting a rabbit.

dun give pets as gifts ya...BADDDDDDDD idea

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Added on December 6, 2010, 9:39 pmmy rabbit dun like to pakai baju
but i have a photo of her with shirt on..only tat few mins to take a picture then i remove adi
clearly they are not comfortable in clothes that's wat their fur are for rite..wat for additional "clothes"

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Added on December 7, 2010, 1:01 ampedialyte is a type of oral rehydration salt
higher in potassium and sodium
lower in sucrose

new improved formula for ORS-now a days also using this formula

so could it be in another brand name in M'sia??
Coz ors is few sen oni in pharmacy




This post has been edited by yueyi5730: Dec 7 2010, 01:01 AM

remember 2 month ago, we debate the male hotot breed i got from Pet Safari IKANO for $80.

after 2 month, this is Milo. i think all of us wrong. from the shape of it, Milo is lionhead, right?


Attached thumbnail(s)

no one debated...it's just u alone...all alone....yup only 1...Uno

Nope, is a mixbreed. Base on the SOP of Lion Head:

Ears are to be short, well set on top of head, erect, well furred, of good substance, and with a strong ear base. They are to be rounded at the tips. Ears should balance with the head and body. When relaxed ears will be carries in a slight "V".

Faults- Ears that are pointed, lack furring, or do not balnce with the body

Disqualifications from Competetion - Ears that exceed 3-1/2 inches in length, wool more then halfway up the ear

BODY: The body is to be short, compact and well rounded

Your "lion head" long ear, not well fur, long body.

Attach together is a Qualify Lion Head for your perusal.

This post has been edited by Puremate: Dec 7 2010, 08:42 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

The lionhead i saw at J JAy petstation is much bigger and longer than above photos.

i do not wish to further comment on other rabbitry's quality.

Please find SOP for Lion head as below:

GENERAL TYPE
BODY - Points 25: The body is to be short, compact and well rounded. The shoulders and chest are to be broad and well filled, with shoulders matching hindquarters. The depth at the shoulders should be deep enough to allow the animal to show full chest and then round back to hindquarters of slightly less depth. The hindquarters are to be broad, deep and well rounded. The lower hips should be well filled. Legs should be of medium length and medium bone, relative to the size of the animal.
Faults: Long, narrow body; flatness over shoulders or hips; chopped off, pinched, or undercut hindquarters; any specimen that shows raciness.

HEAD - Points 10: The head should be bold. It should have a good width and a slight roundness between the eyes, but should not be round from all directions. The muzzle should be well filled. The head should be attached to the body with a high head mount and no visible neck. Eyes should be bright and bold. Eye color to be as described in the individual variety.
Faults: A long, narrow head; pointed or narrow muzzle; low headset; head that is round from all directions.

EARS - Points 5: Ears are to be erect and well set, but not necessarily touching. When relaxed, ears will be carried in a slight “V". They should be well furred, of good substance, and slightly rounded at the tips. Ears should balance with the head and body.
Faults: Ears that are pointed, lack furring, or do not balance with the body. Heavy wool more than halfway up the ear.
Disqualification from Competition: Ears that exceed 3-1/2 inches in length.


FUR & WOOL
MANE - Points 35: The mane is comprised of wool which is strong and full of life with a medium soft texture and an evident crimp. Softer wool on juniors is permissible. Guard hairs may be present, but should not create a coarse feeling to the wool. The mane should be at least 2 inches in length and form a full circle around the head which may extend into a “V” at the back of the neck. The wool of the mane should be dense enough to make the mane full and prominent. The greatest density possible is desired. The mane may form a wool cap across the brow, which should enhance the prominence of the mane. The center of the foreface below the wool cap may have transition wool up to 1” in length. The cheeks extending into the whisker bed may be heavily trimmed. The side trimmings and chest wool may be noticeably longer in length.
Faults: A mane that lacks density or balance; wool that is too cottony or prone to felting on seniors.
Disqualifications from Competition:
*Lack of any mane, or a mane that is of such poor quality that it shows open areas with no wool.
*Mane that is less than 2 inches in length.
*Transition Wool longer than 1 inch on the face below the wool cap.

Note: Only the quality of the wool of the mane is used when judging Lionhead wool. The quality of the transition wool, found on the lower sides and rump, is never taken into consideration.

COAT (Rollback) - Points 10: The fur should be soft, dense, of medium length, and prime. It should show lots of life and glossiness. Ideally, the saddle, flanks, and rump of the animal should be clean of wool. Transition wool is allowed on the flanks and lower hips. Transition wool is defined as significantly shorter wool on the hips or face of the Lionhead rabbit. Transition wool is not to exceed 2 inches on the hips and 1 inch on the face.
Faults: Fur that is long, thin, or poor in texture; transition wool on the flanks of seniors.
Disqualifications from Competition:
*Wool in the saddle area.
*Lack of a break between the wool of the mane and any transition wool on the flanks & hips. The break between the mane and transition wool should be clear and distinct, easily seen when the animal is posed. If there is a question, simply lift the longer mane wool up, which should reveal the break of normal fur between the mane wool and any transition wool on the flanks and hips. Junior animals tend to carry more transition wool and should be given more leniencies as long as the side break is clearly evident.
*Transition wool over 2 inches in length on the flanks and lower hips or over 1 inch on the face.

COLOR – Points 10: The fur, wool, and eye color is to be as described under each variety.

CONDITION – Points 5: As per ARBA definition

great stuff

Just like to add that Lionhead is indeed a DWARF breed. That explains the short ears and compact body.

Also like to take this opportunity to give credit for members who participate in discussion on this thread, share very good information and not just shun away, posting photos just for business sake...