LightJunk
congrats...nice collection..fuuhhhh
Hobbies The Bright Side V3, Malaysian Flashaholic Community!
Hobbies The Bright Side V3, Malaysian Flashaholic Community!
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 12:09 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
1,297 posts Joined: Jan 2008 |
LightJunk
congrats...nice collection..fuuhhhh |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 12:37 AM
|
![]()
Junior Member
5 posts Joined: Oct 2009 From: KCH |
Thanks metalmania. Mag 1D P7 coming soon.
|
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 12:52 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
1,297 posts Joined: Jan 2008 |
QUOTE(LightJunk @ Jan 20 2010, 12:37 AM) beautiful collection..to many variations of mag i dont know which to choose... Added on January 20, 2010, 1:10 am QUOTE(hoongern @ Jan 19 2010, 11:49 PM) Oh NO! Unfortunately, my setup may not be ready :'( shit...i feel you...i say, the long wait and loads spent..kapoof... I just experienced a short circuit, and my IMR18500 cells died, along with my twisty tailcap and D26 T1.5 module springs http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=257976 Lesson: Do NOT underestimate how powerful IMR cells can be - exercise caution! And remove your batteries before changing P60 drop-ins, and check that the spring is straight before putting them back in! This post has been edited by metalmania: Jan 20 2010, 01:10 AM |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 01:12 AM
|
![]()
Junior Member
5 posts Joined: Oct 2009 From: KCH |
Check PM. Glad I can help.
Added on January 20, 2010, 1:19 am QUOTE(hoongern @ Jan 19 2010, 11:49 PM) Oh NO! Unfortunately, my setup may not be ready :'( Sorry to hear that. Thanks for sharing. Never thought this kind of thing will happen. I do sometimes leave the battery in the host and swapped drop ins. So far nothing happen. Thank God. I just experienced a short circuit, and my IMR18500 cells died, along with my twisty tailcap and D26 T1.5 module springs http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=257976 Lesson: Do NOT underestimate how powerful IMR cells can be - exercise caution! And remove your batteries before changing P60 drop-ins, and check that the spring is straight before putting them back in! This post has been edited by LightJunk: Jan 20 2010, 01:19 AM |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 01:20 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
1,297 posts Joined: Jan 2008 |
thanks....very confusing...
lightjunk- i almost made the same mistake one...but good thing wasn't long enough to do any damage...arcing current ouch This post has been edited by metalmania: Jan 20 2010, 01:23 AM |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 01:25 AM
|
![]()
Junior Member
5 posts Joined: Oct 2009 From: KCH |
Yup...took me a while to understand. The battery adapters itself can buy you a Mag 3D. Damn expensive.
Good luck with your build. Those Li-Mn & Li-On batteries are pretty powerful. They need T.L.C. I always make sure the contacts never touch each other when outside of the host(storage). This post has been edited by LightJunk: Jan 20 2010, 01:28 AM |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 01:29 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
1,297 posts Joined: Jan 2008 |
QUOTE(LightJunk @ Jan 20 2010, 01:25 AM) Yup...took me a while to understand. The battery adapters itself can buy you a Mag 3D. Damn expensive. thats true....not sure if i need to go for it..still considering it...i more keen on finishing the parts i have bought and using the mag host..anyway i'm not rushing, i have enough light for now, but tri p7 and single p7 needs to be done..Good luck with your build. |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 01:37 AM
|
![]()
Junior Member
5 posts Joined: Oct 2009 From: KCH |
QUOTE(metalmania @ Jan 20 2010, 01:29 AM) thats true....not sure if i need to go for it..still considering it...i more keen on finishing the parts i have bought and using the mag host..anyway i'm not rushing, i have enough light for now, but tri p7 and single p7 needs to be done.. You have to build those on your own. It will be very interesting. I did both on my own. From sawing the tower switches to soldering and epoxying the LEDs' to the sink. Sourcing PVC tube took me a few days to find suitable one.I undo the single P7 to give way for the SST-90 DD d2flex. |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 01:41 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
1,297 posts Joined: Jan 2008 |
QUOTE(LightJunk @ Jan 20 2010, 01:37 AM) You have to build those on your own. It will be very interesting. I did both on my own. From sawing the tower switches to soldering and epoxying the LEDs' to the sink. Sourcing PVC tube took me a few days to find suitable one. oic...any parts you with to sell of PM me..i'm done with battery and pvc...down to just 3 more components...I undo the single P7 to give way for the SST-90 DD d2flex. |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 01:46 AM
|
![]()
Junior Member
5 posts Joined: Oct 2009 From: KCH |
What I meant was for the host. I uninstall the P7 from the Dual 18650 2P host for the SST-90 mod.
Nothing is for sale at the moment. The single P7 will be installed into the Mag 1D that you've seen at CPF |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 06:46 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
1,006 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Miri/Kuching, Sarawak |
QUOTE(LightJunk @ Jan 20 2010, 01:12 AM) Check PM. Glad I can help. Been there and done that. Added on January 20, 2010, 1:19 am Sorry to hear that. Thanks for sharing. Never thought this kind of thing will happen. I do sometimes leave the battery in the host and swapped drop ins. So far nothing happen. Thank God. I try to use this battery on my e2e, trying to mod something on the head. The battery is still working, the bulb & the tail cap is still good too. Added on January 20, 2010, 7:01 am QUOTE(LightJunk @ Jan 20 2010, 12:37 AM) I like to meet you again... soon. This post has been edited by jwyj: Jan 20 2010, 07:01 AM |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 07:22 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
783 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: My Room. |
LightJunk,
Wow.... |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 09:00 AM
|
![]()
Newbie
0 posts Joined: Jul 2009 |
QUOTE(LightJunk @ Jan 19 2010, 11:47 PM) Guys, Let me introduce you my M6 family photo. MZP7-3 & Black M6 came in today. Just wonderful. |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 09:44 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
721 posts Joined: Dec 2004 From: Boston, PJ |
QUOTE(LightJunk @ Jan 20 2010, 01:12 AM) Sorry to hear that. Thanks for sharing. Never thought this kind of thing will happen. I do sometimes leave the battery in the host and swapped drop ins. So far nothing happen. Thank God. Yeah, I didn't think anything would happen - in fact I hadn't read anywhere that you're supposed to remove the cells first. After this experience, I will always be removing the cells first and checking the springs!QUOTE(LightJunk @ Jan 20 2010, 01:25 AM) Those Li-Mn & Li-On batteries are pretty powerful. They need T.L.C. I always make sure the contacts never touch each other when outside of the host(storage). Agreed. Storage is not so bad - as you can see them and put them in battery cases. However, when they're INSIDE the host.. that's when you can't see them and they can start causing trouble!QUOTE(jwyj @ Jan 20 2010, 06:46 AM) Been there and done that. ooh ouch, looks almost exactly like what happened to mine. My cells seem to be fine as well - still holding > 4 volts right now. But I will carefully test them outdoors and outside of hosts first, and at low currents. I wonder how many watts were going through that thing when it shorted........ The battery is still working, the bulb & the tail cap is still good too. |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 10:05 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]()
Junior Member
487 posts Joined: May 2005 From: KL |
LightJunk
if you ever want to let go any of ur light let us know 1st, i think alot people already eyeing them |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 10:10 AM
|
![]()
Newbie
0 posts Joined: Jul 2009 |
QUOTE(hoongern @ Jan 20 2010, 09:44 AM) Yeah, I didn't think anything would happen - in fact I hadn't read anywhere that you're supposed to remove the cells first. After this experience, I will always be removing the cells first and checking the springs! Yo, I replied your post, does the FM D26 has a - spring like of lumensfactory module? I can't see those FM pics on cpf coz its blocked here aish.. |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 10:23 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
1,006 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Miri/Kuching, Sarawak |
QUOTE(hoongern @ Jan 20 2010, 09:44 AM) Yeah, I didn't think anything would happen - in fact I hadn't read anywhere that you're supposed to remove the cells first. After this experience, I will always be removing the cells first and checking the springs! There are few smaller surefires esp. the e- series where you insert the cells from the head opening, so you have no choice but to have the cells inside.What happened to me is that I leave the switch at the on position while screwing in the head. The drop-in has a long and wide spring so the spring touch the body of the flashlight and the tail became suddenly very hot. |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 10:36 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
721 posts Joined: Dec 2004 From: Boston, PJ |
QUOTE(pseudoblue @ Jan 20 2010, 10:10 AM) Yo, I replied your post, does the FM D26 has a - spring like of lumensfactory module? I can't see those FM pics on cpf coz its blocked here aish.. The FM D26 has a longer-than-usual (at least, longer than my IMR9 spring) inner positive spring, which I think bent. It doesn't have the outer (larger) negative spring, but when I use it, I transfer the outer spring from my IMR-9 over to the D26 module. Anyway, I actually managed to grab 3 beamshots before it all burned up! Here's the Quark AA on a fully charged 14500 Li-Co, on maximum ![]() Here's the FM D26 T1.5 module with a Streamlight TL-3 bulb on 18500s ![]() Finally, here's the LumensFactory IMR-9 module on 18500s ![]() all settings on 0.4sec F2.8 ISO80 EV-1 Daylight balance After that is the *poof* This post has been edited by hoongern: Jan 20 2010, 10:39 AM |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 11:10 AM
|
![]()
Junior Member
6 posts Joined: Apr 2007 |
I am sorry to hear that, but Yeah, unfortunately the drop in spring touched the + terminal of the battery and bent touching the body as well, so a complete loop/circuit from the + to the body (-), and because no load (bulb or LED) or resistance, it short circuit. The current flow from the + terminal* through the spring to the body (-).
The spring melted due to heat of the overcurrent, and hence what happened to your light. Luckily it is in the body of the flashlight, it glow really red when the short happened before it melted. Good news is, your bulb survived, you just need to rebuild the spring, or if the spring still touch the + terminal of the battery, just use sand paper or a file to sand it, clean it with metapolish autosol if possible, then if possible solder it with a layer of tin/lead, then you are good to go again. * (actually charge is from the -, but for simple explanation and common perception, we called the current from +, haha more confusing ) Actually not only IMR, any lithium battery are dangerous to handle, so take care. If you happen to let them use by other , especially kid, use a LifePO4, thats main reason I use LifePO4, I uses lifePO4 for the light can be touched by my sons. Hey, I have a suggestion, if the spring is too long, use some kind of rubber to cover the side of the spring, only allow the tip of the spring to touch the + terminal of the battery. Use a heat shrink tube is good option too. Added on January 20, 2010, 11:32 amOh, just want to add, it is common I put a piece of paper between the body and battery, like wrapping it , to prevent any short of the battery to the body, hope this help. And the piece of paper also record the battery it can use, the voltage range, the run time etc, for reference in case you need it. This post has been edited by susuman: Jan 20 2010, 11:32 AM |
|
|
Jan 20 2010, 11:36 AM
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
721 posts Joined: Dec 2004 From: Boston, PJ |
QUOTE(susuman @ Jan 20 2010, 11:10 AM) I am sorry to hear that, but Yeah, unfortunately the drop in spring touched the + terminal of the battery and bent touching the body as well, so a complete loop/circuit from the + to the body (-), and because no load (bulb or LED) or resistance, it short circuit. The current flow from the + terminal* through the spring to the body (-). I don't think I'd let a kid near even LiFePO4s, as shown by jwyj above they can also short! I think the only flashlights I'd lend to kids would be alkalines, or *maybe* ni-mhs (even ni-mhs are capable of very high currents!). No lithiums!The spring melted due to heat of the overcurrent, and hence what happened to your light. Luckily it is in the body of the flashlight, it glow really red when the short happened before it melted. Good news is, your bulb survived, you just need to rebuild the spring, or if the spring still touch the + terminal of the battery, just use sand paper or a file to sand it, clean it with metapolish autosol if possible, then if possible solder it with a layer of tin/lead, then you are good to go again. * (actually charge is from the -, but for simple explanation and common perception, we called the current from +, haha more confusing ) Actually not only IMR, any lithium battery are dangerous to handle, so take care. If you happen to let them use by other , especially kid, use a LifePO4, thats main reason I use LifePO4, I uses lifePO4 for the light can be touched by my sons. Hey, I have a suggestion, if the spring is too long, use some kind of rubber to cover the side of the spring, only allow the tip of the spring to touch the + terminal of the battery. Use a heat shrink tube is good option too. I may try to trim the spring in the future. The FM module spring is pretty long. We'll see =) He's going to send me a spare spring. And it must have been REALLY RED HOT, seeing how it actually melted.. I'm not sure what the spring is made out, but steel melts at > 1000 degrees celcius! Now that's scary.. |
|
Topic ClosedOptions
|
| Change to: | 0.0314sec
0.57
6 queries
GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 30th November 2025 - 01:12 PM |